ÇaFleureBon Saturday Night Classics: Ô de Lancome Review (Robert Gonnon) 1969 – The green shield

vintage Ô de Lancome Review

Ô de Lancome (original) bottle, photo by Nicoleta©

“No man ever steps in the same river twice, for it’s not the same river and he’s not the same man.” Heraclitus, Greek philosopher, 544 B.C.

Imagine a world in which your favorite songs would slowly decrease in volume, play after play, each time you would listen to them, before fading away into total silence. Waiting and looking for the perfect moment, you would replay the song in your head countless times before you would decide to pick a moment worthy of the ceremonial ritual of hearing the opening chords. Then imagine the strange mixture of deliciousness and soothing familiarity combined with the tragedy of knowing you have one less “hit” of your favorite reality-altering (legal) drug. Sometimes, being in love with vintage fragrances seems just like this imaginary exercise – a bittersweet remembrance and celebration of the fact that life is temporary and fleeting.

O de Lancome 1994 ad

Ô de Lancome, 1994 ad  

I have a piece of wisdom from a very young version of me, that I keep validating every year, around this time: “Being a grown-up during summer is NO FUN”.  If you take away the endless childhood summer holiday you are just left with just …err…summer. The excessive heat, the humidity, my crowded and polluted city that seems to get even more claustrophobic in summer, the merciless light that makes eyes have a permanent squint and my forehead curl into new frown lines,  the sun that burns colors into overexposed oblivion, they all make me count the days to autumn from the first moment the temperature raises over 30 degrees. But before I start pouting and singing Lana del Ray’s “Summertime sadness” I have my 3 things that make summer bearable: icecream, the seaside, and my “green shield” perfumes.

best green perfumes

Star Trek shield

My version of “Beam me up cool me off, Scotty!” scents are – to name but a few: Kenzo’s Parfum d’Ete, Sisley’s Eau du Campagne, Annick Goutal Eau du Sud, Chanel 19, and Vent Vert by Balmain.

Ô de Lancôme is the “Shields up” panic button that I need to press when summer heat gets too oppressive: and out of the previously mentioned lineup, the most technologically advanced version of the summer – heat- deflector shield is this perfume: the olfactory equivalent of drinking a frosted glass of iced lemonade in front of the AC, blasting at the coolest setting possible.

vintage Ô de Lancome Review

Ô de Lancome vintage bottle, photo by Nicoleta 

 I have an original bottle (with the frosted glass) with just a few milliliters left that I keep in my collection for “emergency summers situations” that helps me navigate -unharmed- the pest that is living in an overcrowded heated city during summer.

O de lancome ads

 2001 ad

The beginning of the scent is an explosive burst of serotonin: exhilarating tart brightness, coming in the slow-motion-running lifeguard trio of lemon, mandarin, and bergamot. After the dive in the cool yellow-lemony effervescent waters, we retreat to the sunny lemon grove nearby, filled with flowers that bloom with cool shade and refreshing tangy aroma: jasmine and honeysuckle. We are served a mana potion infused with life-restoring aromatics: pressed basil leaves, bright and soapy coriander, and minty-fresh rosemary before stepping foot into the next scenery – the dark trademark* forest, filled with oakmoss and the reassuring, familiar green embrace of vetiver. *The name “Lancôme” was inspired by the forest of Lancosme that lies in the Indre valley in the heart of France in the region of La Brenne (source: Wikipedia) so no wonder that one of the best olfactive reinterpretation of forests I have ever found (in mainstream perfumery) were in Lancome’s creations.

Ô de Lancome vintage bottle, photo by Nicoleta 

I still like the current formulation but compared to the vintage, but it feels a bit like putting on a pair of cheap sunglasses without UV protection that doesn’t give quite enough contrast and depth and you are “walking on sunshine” all the way- including the forest dry-down that is the thinned-out and lacking shade.

Ô de Lancôme was created in 1969 and the nose was Robert Gonnon. Top Notes: Citrus and Floral (Lemon, Mandarin, and Bergamot);Heart Notes: Jasmine, Honeysuckle and Green Aromatics (Basil, Rosemary, and Coriander); Base Notes: Oakmoss, Sandalwood, and Vetiver

Nicoleta Tomsa, Editor

Disclosure: My own bottle, opinions are my own

Do you have a favorite “green” classic you wear in the summer?

This series is such a hit… you can now binge read our Saturday Night Classic Perfumes here.

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8 comments

  • I adore the original Thierry Mugler Cologne. It’s so fresh and light. Both myself and my boyfriend love it. I’m sad Mugler discontinued it.

  • I loved Fleur de Rochas, first edition…discontinued of course, then I adored Eau de Orlane, Guerlain…Herba Fresca, Basil & Mandarine…still my favorite… Clinique – Happy, men edition

  • Nicoleta, thanks for the great review! This perfume sounds absolutely delightful and those green aromatics – va va va voom!

    This is now on my vintage unicorn list, I’m desperately craving it!

    I really don’t have a vintage green scent that is a favorite, but it’s so darned hard to chose, and I adore green scents!

    – Tony

  • i like lavender, neroli, orange blossom scents, and 4711 in the summer. I used to love Prescriptives Calyx, but haven’t worn it in years. I really do not like heavy scents in the summer, and prefer simple soliflores more than complex, even summery, scents. and i have always wanted to try O de Lancome, but haven’t yet! i’ll keep an eye out!

  • O de Lancome is a new discovery for me, and I adore it – it’s like a softer, breezier Eau Sauvage. Very cooling and elegant. It’s a tad more “perfumey” than my other summer essential, Hermès Eau d’Orange Verte, but it has better lasting power.