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April 10, 2018

Esxence 2018: Perris Monte Carlo Bergamotto di Calabria, Anatole Lebreton Cornaline, Aedes de Venustas Musc Enscense ,  Etat Libre d’Orange I am Trash,  Suigeneris, L’eau de Gina + Best of Show Draw

Michelyn’s press badge

Yesterday I devoted my first post solely to Jacques Fath L’Iris de Fath which I chose as Best Fragrance of Esxence 2018  Today my post is my take on the Esxence 2018 perfume trends, my first impressions as well as my top five fragrances from the show.

Trends and First Impressions

Photo by Ermano P

Timeless Elegance: Fragrances that will stand the test of time and based on neo-classical construction. In this category of course is Fath L’Iris de Fath. Masque Milano’s (homage to Hemingway) by Fanny Bal of IFF with its beautiful use of three vetiver extractions and a sparkling ginger bubbling at the top is a fragrance that could have been worn years ago and one you will reach for in twenty years.

From Virginie Roux of Au Pays de Fleurs d’Oranger (an Art and  Olfaction Finalist 2018 for Eau de Virginie) and one of my favorite perfumers, Natalie Feisthauer,  is  the new L’eau de Gina. It is one part sparkling citrus with notes of orange flower and bergamot, one part lush floral (ylang which is an important floral  trend  this year) with a hint of marine accord. A fruity floral that elevates the category and one of my personal favorites.

Perris Monte Carlo Bergamotto di Calabria  photo Ermano

Burst of Bergamot (Citrus): Just when you thought there could be nothing new in citrus, four perfumes (three by Perris Monte Carlo) brought an entire new dimension to an often pedestrian classification (three are in my top five!)  My favorite from the Perris Monte Carlo collection (all are stellar, which is again why they always seem to be finalists in the Art and Olfaction Awards) is Bergamoto di Calabria, created by Luca Maffei and Gian Luca Perris, which uses sponge Bergamot from Calabrese from the top producers of this special bergamot in the region. Notes are Petit grain, neroli, fresh ginger, jasmin absolute, Orange absolute, Iris, sandalwood and musk. It is as beautiful a perfume as I have sampled in quite some time and a great achievement.  

Photo Ermano

Anatole Lebreton Cornaline (the name was inspired by this decoration of the illustrator Alphonse Mucha zodiac woman who has cornaline gems in her hair) was the perfect perfume to accompany the theme of “a touch of gold” from Esxence 2018. Bergamot sparkles like a jewel; a dazzling fragrance with notes of ylang, carrot root, geranium, peach skin, sensuous spicy vanilla and amber that add a neo-gourmand flair.

Photo Ermano

 Parfumeurs de Nicolai  Cap Neroli is the embodiment of the citrus trend, with its “Do you know the way to St.Tropez” bloom of pettigrain and textured neroli  that is the epitome of French chic.

Photo by Robert H

Neo-Gourmand: Sylvaine Delacourte introduced five new vanillas that are a beautiful take on a category most scoff at. If you liked her Musk Collection, I believe you will find her newest range even more complex. Not sugary, no buttercream or candy notes. Pure Sophistication.

Photo by Ermano P.

Gabriella Chieffo’s Lattedoro is a spicy lactonic, slightly floral fragrance with a hint of coconut.

Photo Ermano

Soft Sillage: Most of the fragrances I smelled at Esxence 2018 did not shout. There is a new sophistication in the air. You wear your fragrance, rather than allow your perfume to wear you. Neela Vermeire Niral (serene) is soft on the skin, yet is complex.

One of my top five from Esxence 2018 is Aedes de Venustas Musc Enscense, (composed by Ralph Schwieger) which was inspired by Tonkin Musk, the Musk deer. The name is a play on the French encens (incense) and insense (crazy). If you are searching for a translucent musk perfume that is warm rather than feral, add Musc Ensencé to your MUST buy list with its creamy notes of almond, tonka, balanced by mystical Clary Sage. I smell skin, sand and amber; it is a quietly sexy scent. This is one perfume that I could have easily put in the Timeless Elegance category.

Photo of House of Oud by Robert H.

Lose the Oud: For the first time in many years Oud did not prevail. Yes they were there, but you know there is a change in the fragrant air when the House of Oud, (who also gets my best booth award) introduced their ThoO line with NO OUD. The raw materials here focus on three primary colors- Green for hinoki, Red for Palosanto and Blue for Blue Tea. The perfumer is Maurizo Cerizza

Photo by Robert H

Best Concept: Suigeneris (Latin for both genders). Words like gender fluid, for him, for her, and unisex are overused, just plain outdated, try too hard or have become buzz words for marketers.Sui-generis Non Binary Essence had a fresh approach to who should wear what and I love their tagline of “I am unique, I am freedom and I am Suigeneres”. 

Best Perfume You Never Heard of: Double Mystery by Franck Muller. Franck Muller is a watch company from Geneva and is a timeless (no pun intended) white floral tuberose freshened by bergamot and a subtle myrrh note.

Photo by Ermano

Best Name for A Perfume: Etat Libre D’Orange “I am Trash” Ah Etienne de Swardt of Etat Libre D’Orange you continue to surprise me. Whoever thinks that the House has gone mainstream then this new fragrance may shake you up. The scent "I am Trash", composed by Daniela Andrier (she created the magnificent Une Amourette  Roland Mourette) is rumored to be made of “trash" or leftover raw materials from Givaudan. I bet it won’t smell anything but wonderful.

Please Take a Booth Next Year: Victor Wong… if you are reading this, your fragrances for Zoologist Perfumes were as talked about as the exhibitors’. You are a bonafide force, a Creative Director who continues to surprise us with your menagerie of fragrance. Congratulations  on receiving an Art and Olfaction Awards Top Ten  Finalist for  Elephant.

Busiest Booths: Tiziana Terenzi. I missed my appointment! I try to see Paolo every year and his booth is too busy. He waves and looks sad, but that brand is booming. As was Fort and Manle, an artisan brand from Australia which  along with Naomi Goodsir,  Grandiflora and Map of the Heart  are creating a new scent destination. 

I had a quick whiff of the new Nomenclature Para_iso (the Spanish word for Paradise) by Frank Voelkl which is a lush drenched "tropical isle in a laboratory beaker" that is 100 percent synthetic (lilyflore© and quincester©  seem as real as lily of the valley and quince) and is 100 percent spectacular.

People and Houses I sadly missed:  too numerous to list, but my colleagues will be picking up where I left off…

–Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief

With my thanks to Ermano and Robert for these Photos!!!

I am offering a selection of samples from my post to a registered reader in the USA. To be eligible please leave a comment with what you enjoyed about my perfume trend and first impression report from Esxence 2018. What had your nose twitching? Draw closes 4/13/2018

 

 

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27 Comments

  1. avatar fazalcheema says:
    April 10, 2018 at 8:16 pm

    I am intrigued by Masque Hemingway as well as Aedes new perfumes because I blind bought 2 aedes bottles and enjoy both of them. I agree the name chosen by ELDO for their new perfume is really funny. It would be amusing to tell someone what you are wearing if they ask.

  2. avatar Maisie says:
    April 10, 2018 at 9:14 pm

    There is little here that *isn’t* captivating. Timelessness is always to be loved and the move away from bigger brasher woodier and oudier than thou perfumes to subtlety and complexity can only be a good thing, right? (Although I do love woods and even some ouds!)

  3. avatar Just Add Light says:
    April 10, 2018 at 9:21 pm

    I have to admit that the name “I am trash” is an attention grabber. Just like Mr. Ford’s edgy “fabulous” creation last year, it’s sure to generate some buzz. Strange how the house of Oud would also create a fragrance without oud. I’ve seen this trend in designers of late, but never thought it would trickle into the niche sector. Definitely would be thrilled to try Masque Milano, Cornaline and L’iris de Fath. Appreciate the article Michelyn!

  4. avatar RoseMacaroon says:
    April 10, 2018 at 9:23 pm

    I absolutely love your coverage here — vicarious living at its finest! Everything in the Timeless Elegance and Neo-Gourmand categories has me in a frenzy, and I also LOOOOOOVE that soft spillage is a trend! I do love perfumes but not so much that I want to taste those worn by (or perhaps, wearing) my fellow restaurant patrons more than I do my food. Thank you for this bit of high living! I’m in the US.

  5. avatar BostonScentGuy says:
    April 10, 2018 at 10:27 pm

    I always get big FOMO reading about these massive and glorious industry events. Thank you for covering! I love the idea of timeless elegance. Also gotta say I’m happy to near the end of the ubiquitoud trend. Some oud is sublime but the market saturation has been too much! The new Aedes scent and “Trash” piqued my interest for totally different reasons! I’m also always a big Masque Milano fan. Thanks for this draw! I’m in the US.

  6. avatar Getar says:
    April 10, 2018 at 11:01 pm

    I love these in depth living vicariously posts because real folks only dream of attending Esxence. Very refreshing to see the House of Oud making fragrances with no Oud! I love I am trash as a perfume name and would like to try perris montecarlo bergamotto since I am a fan of Luca Maffei. Nice to see Neela get a mention and I need to check out Eau de Gina for my wife. Thanks for this chance

  7. avatar girasole638 says:
    April 10, 2018 at 11:53 pm

    I can get on board with the soft silage trend for sure – I like an intimate scent. The new Aedes musk sounds particularly beautiful. And I have to admit I’m a little real ever that the our trend is quieting a little. I’m in the US and would love to sniff several of these new releases. Thank you!

  8. avatar Mr_Sillage says:
    April 11, 2018 at 12:13 am

    I would’ve been so overwhelmed! Everything sounds so incredible! I agree that Victor Wong should definitely have his own booth! Thank you so much for sharing your experience, Michelyn!

  9. avatar mahigermez says:
    April 11, 2018 at 12:45 am

    Your post made me feel like I was in Milan! Every description piqued my interest. I would love to experience L’eau de Gina and the new fragrances by Perris Monte Carlo, the citrus revivals 4Byou talk about. Also – I could almost smell Musc Enscense from your description and know I would love the Nomenclature 100% synthetic Para_dise!

  10. avatar Carol Webb says:
    April 11, 2018 at 5:15 am

    From the short description of all of these fragrances – I cannot even pick out one that I would enjoy the most. They all sound beautiful. I’m glad to hear the trend is going towards citrus – it seems so fitting for spring/summer.
    Other than all the citrus, i would love to try Musc Ensence and and/all of Sylvaine Delacourte’s vanillas.
    I’m in the US, thanks for the draw.

  11. avatar Dosva says:
    April 11, 2018 at 5:23 am

    I am intrigued by Masque Hemingway as well as Aedes Venustad new perfumes!!! I would like to test Nicolai Cup Nerol- so nice description and I Nocolai perfumes.
    Thank you, Michelyn!!!

  12. avatar INYA says:
    April 11, 2018 at 8:28 am

    More innovative blends to try!!! Thanks for all of your posts and generous draws ♡♡♡ I’m a big Aedes de Venustas fan, however, all sound promising. I’m going to miss the oud, but sweet green spring is on it’s way. In the US.

  13. avatar Richard potter says:
    April 11, 2018 at 10:52 am

    Thanks for this informative overview. I really want to try Musc Incensé and I Am Trash ( I suppose I should have reversed the order of those two).

  14. avatar Richard potter says:
    April 11, 2018 at 10:53 am

    US

  15. avatar NiceVULady says:
    April 11, 2018 at 11:57 am

    Wonderful reporting of the newest and latest Michelyn. I’m glad the oud prominence is over. Wonderful news about the emergence of citrus as a trend. There are so many here that I would love to try. Anatole Lebreton Cornaline looks amazing as does Parfumeurs de Nicolai Cap Neroli. I’m in the USA. Thanks for the draw.

  16. avatar jeremyn87 says:
    April 11, 2018 at 1:26 pm

    I love timeless elegance, and often find myself reaching for those kinds of frags. Masque Milano appealed to me as a big vetiver fan. I’m in the US

  17. avatar Hasib says:
    April 11, 2018 at 2:19 pm

    Thank you for this great report. Bergamoto di Calabria, Aedes interest me. Not sure what Etat libre d’Orange Tradh is going to be like. Hope to get a chance to try. U.S.

  18. avatar Mim says:
    April 11, 2018 at 2:27 pm

    What a whirlwind! There is so much there, wow, that sounds fun but intense.
    Aedes de Venustas Musc Enscens sounds awesome! Bergamoto di Calabria also sounds amazing because I adore bergamot. And Anatole Lebreton Cornaline (new to me) sounds lovely, and takes inspiration from Mucha (an artist I have always liked and recently become more interested in) too!
    Thank you for the write-up and the draw

  19. avatar tiffanie says:
    April 11, 2018 at 3:51 pm

    Citrus love, soft sillage, and Suigeneris are the news from Esxence that make me excited about fragrance in 2018. Thank you for sharing this inside look with us. I especially look forward to all of the event photos shared by CaFleureBon!

  20. avatar Catanosmia says:
    April 11, 2018 at 6:47 pm

    Five new vanillas! I’d never scoff–I’ll be putting the Sylvaine Delacourte collection on my “must sniff” list. Thank you for sharing your impressions with us.

  21. avatar StaceyW says:
    April 11, 2018 at 8:43 pm

    Nice rundown of all the new delights! I am most intrigued by Niral, Musc Enscense, and the ELDO’s. I am in the U.S. Thank you for the draw!

  22. avatar gvillecreative says:
    April 12, 2018 at 8:21 am

    Oh no- not sure if I should thank you or be mad at you, because I want to try SEVERAL of these based on your descriptions. The PdN was already on my try list, but I hadn’t even heard of Perris Monte Carlo! Thanks for posting about these! I’m always looking for more citrus for my collection, since I find myself reaching for those (and vetiver and rose) the most often. Thanks for the draw!

  23. avatar Diana D says:
    April 12, 2018 at 12:59 pm

    Ooh! My nose it twitching for the new collection Neo-Gourmand by Sylvaine Delacourte. 5 vanilla fragrances has me wanting to try them all!
    I live in the US.

  24. avatar sunnlitt says:
    April 13, 2018 at 2:12 am

    I loved the ‘Burst of Bergamot’ category.
    The Neo-Gormand also sounds lovely, especially the Lattedoro.
    It must have been a wonderful time.
    I live in the US.

  25. avatar lilyd says:
    April 13, 2018 at 10:04 am

    I Am Trash will of course be lovely! What a fun line. I love animals so am interested in Victor Wong’s line. I took a peek at their website and their frags are 100% cruelty-free. The illustrations on the bottles are gorgeous, and they’re Canadian, woot woot. Liked the House of Oud exhibit, very cool. Thanks for the post, and the draw – I live in Canada. 🙂

  26. avatar roxhas1cat says:
    April 13, 2018 at 11:31 am

    So much excitement over these new fragrances. The bottles are beautiful! I am most interested in Cap Neroli, my collection needs more spring/summer scents. Happy to see that oud is on it’s way out, I’ve tried many ouds and they have been too overpowering for my taste. Cornaline is what I am going to research as soon as I am done posting this! Thanks for the chance and the information!! I live in the US.

  27. avatar doveskylark says:
    April 13, 2018 at 12:40 pm

    It is always interesting to read about the latest creations at Esxense. I love hearing about the trends and about how perfumers always create something new and dazzling within the trends.
    I am particularly interested in Cornaline by Anatole Lebreton. I love his L’Eau Scandaleuse from a few years back.
    I live in the USA.

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