ÇaFleureBon Young Perfumer Series: Luca Maffei of Atelier Fragranze Milano + Jules et Mad Les Whites and Pineidor Cuoio Nobile Draw

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Luca Maffei of Atelier Fragranze Milano is 30 years old

My first olfactory memory is my mother’s perfume, Coco by Chanel. Every time she moved, she left a floral spicy trail of rose, jasmine, cloves and coriander. Her clothes always smelled of her perfume and even when she wasn’t home, her perfume and her presence was there with me.

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Luca at Age 10

I have other wonderful scented memories…my little sister skin’s odor as a baby, so clean and pure…my grandma’s fragrance that seemed a powdery cloud…

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Luca  with his dad Marco Riviera Ligure

or cruising in the Riviera Ligure with my father and breathing the smell of the sea, the warmth of the sun and the odor of the wooden boat, a great mix that always gave me the felling of freedom.

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Luca Maffei age 18 Nosy Be Madagascar

My life has always been linked to fragrance. My father Marco Maffei worked in the Fragrance industry at Symrise and other international Flavor and Fragrance companies. He used to bring home hundreds of lab samples before presentation to customers. My dad was part of many magnificent launches for big Italian fashion houses such as Versace  and Trussardi.   He met and worked with master perfumers such as Jean-Louis Sieuzac, Dominique Ropion, and Michel Almairac to name just a few. Thanks to my dad I was exposed at early age to an era when perfume was glamorous. This was during the 90s which in many ways was the Golden age of Italian perfumery. I was  only a young boy but that time left an indelible mark that later influenced my future as perfumer.  At 18, I left Italy for my first business trip to choose the most beautiful ylang ylang essential oil in the fields of Nosy-Be in Madagascar.

 I studied economics at the University of Milan, so that I had a business background. For awhile I wanted to become a big entrepreneur in the fragrance field. In the meantime my father Atelier Fragranze Milano founded his own fragrance company. I remember that the first time I entered the laboratory I was fascinated by the perfumers who worked there and I was intrigued by their written formulas, how they worked with raw materials and created magical jus. They spoke a different language, which is the language of chemistry and olfaction.  I knew then that fragrance creation was absolutely my future.

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Luca with his mentor Mme Françoise Marin

So at the age of 22 I moved to Grasse. I had a special mentor, Madame Françoise Marin, perfumer and former director of Roure perfumery school. She taught me everything…raw materials, accords, formulation techniques, history of perfumery. We visited fields and extraction factories together.

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Luca in Grasse Rose de Mai (Centafolia Rose)

I was fascinated especially by the centifolia rose that later on became one of my favorite raw materials.

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Pineider Cuoio Nobile

I continued my apprenticeship with a young talented perfumer of Epressions Parfumées, Vincent Ricord. Back to Italy in 2011, I created (at the age of 26) my fist fragrance: Cuoio Nobile for Pineider, a legendary Italian brand. In 2012 it was selected as finalist for the Best Niche Perfume Category of Accademia del Profumo in Milan.

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Luca with his dad Marco and Maurizio Cerizza at Atelier Fragranze Milano

Late 2012 I start working closely with Master perfumer Maurizio Cerizza, reinforcing my creation background and discovering new raw materials (White Tea resinoid, Rhum CO2…).

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Luca at Esxence 2013

Encouraged by him, I applied in 2013 for the Esxence The Scent of Excellence Contest dedicated to perfumers under 30 years old. My creation Iris Magnifica, a tribute to Italian fine perfumery was a top five finalist.

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Perris Montecarlo

From then on, I began my career in earnest. I had the opportunity to work for a fabulous brand, Perris Monte Carlo, with extraordinary people, so in love with perfumes and raw materials. I created with Gian Luca Perris (creative director of the brand) two fragrances: Rose de Taif and Oud Imperial – using precious ingredients like Arabian Taif Rose and Natural Oud oil. They ranked finalist in the Niche Category of Academia del Perfume in Madrid in 2014. (Note: Tama Blough was very impressed with Luca’s work, her review  February 14, 2014 here)

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 I am also interested in olfactory installations and air scenting. The most incredible project I was asked to work on till now was creating an olfactory itinerary for Ferrari Museum in Maranello focusing on evocative odors typical to F1 as the burned rubber, hot engine and green grass at sidelines. Recently I had the honor to be accepted as a member of SFP – Société Française des Parfumeurs and I look forward to getting in touch with many colleagues and share our perfumed emotions.

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I would like to share my latest experience and I am very proud and honored to announce my collaboration with Jul et Mad Paris for their new high-luxury extraits de parfum Les WHITE collection. I loved working with the brand founders, Julien Blanchard and Madalina Stoica Blanchard. Their briefs for the Les WHITE line made me dream and they gave me total freedom to create perfumes that told their passionate stories. And they are so open-minded and non conformist to choose an Italian young perfumer in such a big French industry! Looking forward to seeing them for the pre-launch event at Esxence The Scent of Excellence in Milan at Booth 24!

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Edmond Roudnitska in his garden (courtesy of Michel Roudnitska)

There are so many perfumers whom I admire. One above all is Edmond Roudnitska with his legendary creations and his life dedicated to perfume. He said “a beautiful perfume is the one that leads to a shock”. This is also what I believe in. This is the advice I would give to someone who wants to become a perfumer, take chances and don’t be afraid to shock with your beautiful perfume.

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Luca in his Labo

How do I find inspiration? Every moment and everywhere. Everything around us could be inspirational. Of course, I love travelling, music and art as they are inspirational above all. And I am proud to live in Italy with its beauty and cultural heritage.

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Regarding IFRA, as I belong to the new generation of perfumers, I’ve been used from the beginning to respect all the constant changes of regulations. Often during the training course I was asked to recreate a formula by replacing products cannnot be used for IFRA. Even computer tools for formulation help me to check IFRA contraints in real time.

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 My dreams? They are big and I am only 30 years old. I would love the opportunity to create fragrances for Trussardi and Versace as they have such a powerful, connection to my childhood. Someday I would love to work with the luxury brands and By Kilian or Jovoy Paris. If I dream it, maybe it will make it so!

-Luca Maffei, Perfumer for Atelier Fragraze Milano

Perfumes by Luca Maffei

Nea (Les White), Jul et Mad Paris (2015)
Garuda (Les White), Jul et Mad Paris (2015)
Rossa Boheme, Onyrico (2015)
Unguentum, Onyrico (2015)
Empireo, Onyrico (2015)
Enygma, Onyrico (2015)
Essence of Central Park, Carthusia (2015)
Infinity Oud, Carthusia for Harrods (2014)
Secret Oud, Carthusia (2014)
Tintura Spiritosa, Peccato Originale (2014)
Vaniglia Fior di Mandorlo, Acca Kappa (2014)
Black Pepper & Sandalwood, Acca Kappa (2014)
Tilia Cordata, Acca Kappa (2014)
Virginia Rose, Acca Kappa (2013)
Rose de Taif, Perris Monte Carlo (2013)
Oud Imperial, Perris Monte Carlo (2012)
Cuoio Nobile, Pineider (2011)
Celsea Garden, Washington Tremlett (2009)

 

CONGRATULATIONS TO LUCA MAFEII!!!  Acca Kappa Black  & Sandalwood is a 2015 Institute of Art and Olfaction Finalist in the Independent category

Thanks to Jules et Mad we have an exciting draw. One CaFleureBon reader anywhere in the world can win the 5 ml Love Dose of Nea or Garuda (you will need to be patient as they would not be shipped until May and are premiering Thursday at Esxence)  OR Thanks to Luca we have an autographed  bottle of  Pineider Cuoio Nobile for any reader worlwide. To be eligible please leave a comment with what you found fascinating about Luca Maffei as a perfumer, if you have tried any of his perfumes before, where you live and your choice of fragrance, Draw closes March 28, 2015

We announce the winners only on site and our Facebook page, so like CaFleureBon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will just be spilled perfume.

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30 comments

  • What’s so wonderful is Luca’s exuberance! I love the photo of him with the roses. Very nice family history; he’s blessed and now he’s blessing us. I really love the two Perris Monte Carlos fragrances. . .am in the US and would love to win an autographed bottle of perfume. It’d be an honor! 🙂

  • The fact he had decided on his passion at such an early age indicates he is destined for great things especially when you see the amount of work he has done so far and Im ashamed to say I have sampled none. I would be lucky to win a perfume to be “shocked” by 🙂 Thank you

  • MikasMinion says:

    How lucky he was to be exposed at such a young age to something he loves. I’m glad he took advantage of his good fortune and talent to build a career. I have only sniffed Secret Oud and found it gorgeous but not what I was looking for at the time. I am in the US and would love to try Nea.

  • Freeestyler says:

    What a wonderful read. I am fascinated tha Luca created at the age of 26 his fist fragrance. I still have not been able to try any of his compositions, but it would be a pleasure for me to do that after reading more about him. I would go for Nea. I’m in Germany

  • I don’t know if it his youth, but everything he says sounds so full of hope! And he has already done so much 🙂 I have not had a chance to try any of his perfumes yet, but I would love to try Pineider Cuoio Nobile. I am in the US, thank you!

  • The “olfactory itinerary” he created for the Ferrari Museum must have been a fascinating assignment.I’m in the US, and I’d choose the Jul et Mad Paris Nea.

  • Fazal Cheema says:

    I envy Luca’s childhood as his father would bring lots of lab samples home..it must have been so much fun getting to sniff fragrances many of whom have never seen the day of light as finalized products..I understand his desire to create for Trussardi because I lvoe original Trussardi and Inside from the brand…best of luck on your dreams, Luca.

    For this draw, my choice will be Nea. I live in the US

  • Marcopietro says:

    Luca Maffei is one of the most promising Italian noses of the new generations. I did not know his family history, but now it is clear where his passions are born.
    I admire his career growing exponentially, but for the draw I would love to win his first creation: Pineider Cuoio Nobile.
    I live in Italy, thank you!

  • This is a wonderful review. I found fascinating about Luca Maffei, is that he very love his family, and his job. And he seems a happy young man full of optimist. He reminds me of my brother.
    I had never tried any of his perfumes. But I would very like to try them. If I would win, my choice is Garuda. I live in Europe.

  • It was fascinating to read how early and often are Luca’s olfactory memories. I have not tried any of Luca’s creations. For the draw I pick the autographed bottle of Pineider Cuoio Nobile. U.S.

  • It’s super impressive how young Luca is- and also very handsome. ;P
    I haven’t tried anything that he has created. I would choose Nea as my first. I’m in the US.

  • Roseinrose says:

    I found fascinating the fact that he loves roses as I do and uses them as first raw material in his creations (what an amazing photo of Luca in Grasse with Rose de Mai) and the fact that he is also very young, handsome and an established perfumer already
    Unfortunately I have not experienced any of his creations and in case I win I would love to experience an autographed bottle of Pineider Cuoio Nobile. I live in EU.

  • I love reading about Luca’s scented memories. Haven’t tried any of his perfumes before.
    My choice would be Pineider Cuoio Nobile.
    In the U.S. Thanks for the opprotunity.

  • Danu Seith-Fyr says:

    I relished every part of this article, so fascinating that even as a young child all the raw ingredients were present and as his life progressed surreptitious encounters led all the people into his life to nurture and encourage this talent….
    . he represents all I admire in a passionate person, determination, talent, love of his craft, an artisan and a creative who knows how to orchestrate the symphony that is great fragrance, that leaves the rest of us swooning in his wake…… I am very excited to be given this opportunity and I have tried none of his fragrances as yet, so the autographed Pineidor Cuoio Nobile is a first choice, I live in New Zealand……

  • I can really relate to the smell of freedom – on a boat, the warm sun and the salty air. That reminds me of my childhood, though for me its mixed with bait/seafood/oil… I haven’t tried any of his scents, but would love to try the Nea. Thanks for the draw, I’m in the US!

  • Wow I can’t believe Lyca has such a repertoire of perfumes under his belt. 18 and counting. That is incredible! Hopefully I will get to smell one, someday. I would choose Love Dose as my prize. I’m in the U.S. and thanks for the draw.

  • I loved Luca’s comment on the open-mindedness and non-conformity of Julien and Madalina Blanchard in choosing him to create their new extraits! I’m sure their confidence in him is very well placed, even though I haven’t smelled any of his scents yet. I’d love to try Garuda. I’m in the US; thanks for the draw.

  • A happy path to success! I love the photos and experiences Luca shares with us, and the many mentors and perfumers that he admires. Also, a great quote from Edmond Roudnitska! I am in the US and have not yet tried any of his perfumes. I would love to try Nea. Thanks for the draw!

  • Very interesting article. It was fascinating to read about Luca’s family. Succession is very important and matter of respect.
    I’ve tried Oud Imperial and I love it.
    I’m in Russia. I would like to win bottle of Cuoio Nobile. Thanks!

  • I always love to hear about perfumers’ first olfactory memories, because you know it has an effect on their personal taste and what they create. I’ve never tried any of Luca’s fragrances before. I’m in the US, and my choice would be Cuoio Nobile. Thanks!

  • Valentine girl says:

    I have not yet had the pleasure of experiencing any of Luca’s perfumes, although Black Pepper & Sandalwood would be at the top of my list as I adore spicy & woody fragrances…and I just found out that it was nominated as one of the finalists for the Institute of Art & Olfaction awards at Esxence 2015 (wish I was there) -so congratulations Luca on your achievement!

    As an aspiring perfume maker myself, I was inspired by his passing down of the wisdom of Edmond Roudnitska to take chances & never be afraid to shock people with your beautiful creations! He certainly had a childhood filled with fragrant memories and I was fascinated to learn that he had visited Madagascar when he was 18 to purchase ylang-ylang essential oil. I would love to hear more about his experiences during that trip and his many travels visiting the fields, distilleries, and extraction factories while learning his craft (love the photo of him in the vat of rose petals)!

    I am excited by the news of his collaboration with the talented duo, Jules and Mad, and I can’t wait until the perfumes are available. I would love to try Garuda–a love of archaeology has made Angkor Wat a place I would like to visit myself one day, but in the meantime, I hope Garuda will me carry me there on its fragrant wings. Thank you for the draw opportunity. I reside in the USA.

  • It hit me while reading this post that young perfumers like Luca do indeed have to deal with the IFRA from day one. I have not tried any of his listed perfumes. Would love to win the Garuda though. 🙂 USA

  • Luca’s olfactory childhood memories and how he sees his life always connected to fragrance, of course he’d choose the creative side of the business! I would love the Ferrari Museum olfactory experience, I have not visited this museum, but I have been at auto mible museums in Germany and I don’t recall any particular scent – amazing idea! I’m in the US and would love the Cuoio Nobile. Thank you.

  • Cynthia Richardson says:

    I found Luca Maffei fascinating as a perfumer in his extensive background. I also appreciate his explanation of something that I’ve noticed in reading all of these reviews. Perfumers speak “a different language, which is the language of chemistry and olfaction”. I have not yet had the pleasure of trying any of his perfumes before, but would choose his first creation Pineider Cuoio Nobile. I live in the US.

  • I love Luca’s drive, and he has the potential to be one of the best perfumers in the world. He’s so young, but has unbelievable talent. I liked reading about his life as a young child, leading up to today.

    I would love to win Cuoio Nobile, I’ve heard a lot about it. Thanks and I’m in Canada.

  • There is a list of 18 Luca s fragrances in this post – it clearly shows how talented this guy in age of 30 is. Working for Ferrari project sounds really interesting and I love the way how he respects all the changes of IFRA regulations. Never tried his scents. I am in Europe, Pineider Cuoio Nobile my choice

  • Ahh, I must admit these tales always leave me a bit sad for my mis-spent life! Amazing to have accomplished so much at such a young age and to be doing something you love. Who could ask for more? I would pick Nea. The notes sound amazing. USA

  • This inspires me to create perfumery! I took a class recently about it, and it was so enjoyable and I learned a ton. Luca is extremely talented and I wish him continued success in the future. My choice would have to be the signed bottle of Cuoio Nobile! International (Canada) member here.

  • My mother also loved Coco by Chanel. I remember it clearly when growing up. I always used to love how the bottle looked! Luca has great experience at such a young age. I will definitely have to check out some of his creations!
    I’m a Canadian reader, and my choice would be Cuoio Nobile. Just doing a bit of research on it, it sounds incredible! Thanks for the draw.

  • I loved reading of his drive and inspiritation for fragrance from an early age. Looking forward to many beautiful fragrances from the creative touch of his hand. I would love the autographed bottle. I am in the US.