April 1, 2010
“A master should never be evaluated on a single creation, unless of course they have created only one masterful work in a lifetime.”
Upon first encountering (Trévert) it seems a bit of a lone rider in the Aftel lexicon. Immediately it comes across as a new testament to the body of laws that govern the Aftelier brand. It seems a divergence from her symphonic creations of Cepes and Tuberose and Parfum Privé.
For me, her body of work conjures up the voluptuous ideology of Bellini, it is lush and over flowing in ecstasy. I can without hesitation envision the image of the “Ecstasy of Saint Theresa” with The Archangel’s arrow posing as metaphor to Aftel’s smoke penetrating the soul.
If there is any reasonable thread that runs through the fragrances created by Mandy Aftel, it would be that they beam with third eye energy. This is the bloodline that connects Trévert; a modern day healing serum to that of Parfum de Maroc; the fragrance Mary Magdalene would have worn to the last supper. Trévert is per its name, very green. The initial headiness of pine sits subtly on the surface of the skin drying down to fresh cut stems of Tuberose oozing with nectar. Trévert will draw you back to your wrist, the inner folds of the arm and nap of a lover’s neck each time recalling its power not only to intoxicate, but to balance the 6th chakra.
I overheard someone referring to Mandy Aftel as a ” master and medicine woman”; she is truly a symphony of two. For that matter any master of the art of perfumery that is worth his or her weight in gold would have to be cultivated in the delicate art of awakening the serpent. Her body of work, Trévert included, represents a ascension upon the caduceus where our reward is a set of white bedazzled wings constructed of the delicate petals of a withering tuberose.
-Rodney Fitzgerald Hughes, Natural Perfumes Contributor