Soivohle Pachou Minimale, Cassis et Copains, Cuir Beurre (Liz Zorn) 2017-New Perfume Review: + Art in a Bottle Draw

What is Soivohle (pronounced see-voh)? It's Liz Zorn's acronym for the personal philosophy behind her brand: Sending Out Inspired Vibrations of Healthy Loving Energy. Liz gardens, tinctures, is a passionate cook, rescues/nurtures feral/homeless felines.

Liz Zorn is a painter and a perfumer

When she's not painting, making music or writing she makes perfumes  –  and has done so for over 15 years.

We have just heard from Liz in Part 1 of CaFleureBonThe Art of Artisan –The Pioneers,  and happily she’s released three new perfumes: Pachou Minimale, Cassis et Copains and Cuir Beurre for 2017.

Liz Zorn's Rose Colored World

Liz says: “I am still after fifteen years, resistant to get too involved in the external perfume world. I like to keep my ideas fresh, my process personal and private and create work that has meaning for me. So I keep my head down and focus most of my attention on the work.” She spoke of reviewing notes, formulae that hadn't been finished or whose timing hadn't felt right.

Voices Carry by Liz Zorn

She's been updating her entire collection, including more naturals. Liz composes perfumes as she always has: from the base up (certain base chords recur like a leitmotif underpinning her perfumes), incorporating her own accords and tinctures. She feels that “some of the new things are lighter in a way, happier scents. Each of her new perfumes possesses its own personality.

Closer by Liz Zorn

Pachou Minimale (Natural): Liz loves patchouli – the older, the better. Finely aged patchouli makes an immense difference in a scent: I liken it to Homer's wine-dark sea. Far from head-shoppy patchouli oil circa '70, Pachou Minimale accents its rich earthiness weightlessly. Tender fruitiness of pear and ylang engage in aromatic dialogue as Liz's own amber and jasmine contribute dimension. Ambrette’s floral/musky voice suits cedar. This fragrance is grounded and rounded and pitch-perfect.

Affinity 1 by Liz Zorn

Delicate spiciness lingers – its whisper patchouli, not clobber patchouli. It might enchant some of the patch skeptics out there. Notes include: Bergamot, Pear, Ylang Ylang, Essence of Jasmine, Amber (benzoin, peru balsam, tolu balsam, vanilla, labdanum) Ambrette Seed Absolute, Blood Cedar, Aged Indian Patchouli    

Paints Like a Grrl by Liz Zorn                                                            

Cassis et Copains (Mixed Media = combination of natural/art essences): Blackcurrant and Buddies! Cassis is hardly a blushing bride aromatic – it’s intensely verdant/fruity/floral and animalic cat pee-like in the absolute – but dilute and mingle it with florals and fruits, bed it down with coumarinic hay and oakmoss and see where it goes. Looking at the roster of notes is of no help. You need to wing it and go along for the ride; going along for the ride characteristically epitomizes Liz Zorn's work as the best case scenario. Cassis is often paired with rose; they're smitten with one another (Diptyque L'Ombre Dans L'Eau, some Rosines).  Blackcurrant and palo santo? Strawberries, raspberries, apples, clementines? Sweet florals such as lilac, sweet pea? Green tea's astringency is complimentary to hyacinth, counterbalances florals' honeyed nectar. Sprightly berries proffer zing;  they all benefit from a grating of pink pepper to season the quirky confiture. Jasmine behaves as rose would: she is a Universal Playmate who coaxes communion between seemingly disparate elements. The drydown is companionable, mossy and gentle. Notes Include: Cassis Absolute, Clementine, Pink Pepper, Strawberries, Raspberries, Apples, Green Tea, Hyacinth, Lilacs, Sweet Pea, Jasmine, Palo Santo Wood, Hay Absolute, Tolu Balsam, Oakmoss Base, Vanilla, Musk

Bottle Image by Liz Zorn

Cuir Beurre (Natural): AKA Liz Loves Leather. So do I. Liz Zorn loves boots, jackets. I could easily envision her in the saddle. In Cuir Beurre (Butter Leather/Leather Butter, as you prefer) the choyas are alchemical, wedding earth and ocean: choya ral, the distillation of Himalayan cedar with smoky Sal tree resin; choya nakh – distilled Himalayan cedar with roasted seashells. Tea accord and labdanum imbue mysterious atmosphere deepened by cepes' mossy, rhizomal tones. 

Terra Animam by Liz Zorn

How to modulate these intense components? Creamy aged Indian sandalwood, lactones soften rawer notes with rooty orris butter in tow. Sweet fennel drizzles a mild anise bouquet which blooms on my skin in the drydown; perhaps it's that vanillic-oud-as-caramel base note. Notes include: Sweet Fennel, Cepes Absolute, Tea Accord, Lactones, Choya Nakh, Choya Ral, Rectified Birch, Aged Indian Sandalwood, Orris Butter, Labdanum set into a Vanilla/Oud organic esprit de sucre

Many thanks to Liz Zorn of Soivohle for the samples! My nose is my own.

~ Ida Meister, Senior Editor

Editor’s Note: All art by Liz Zorn Fine Arts. Liz is also a  highly accomplished fine  artist whose works are represented by Saatchi Online, and now,  new and selected work at  Bears Mill Art Center, Clark Gallery, Greenville, Ohio. Liz’s Studio is  @The Pendleton Art Center, located at 1310 Pendleton Street, Cincinnati. -Michelyn

Thanks to Liz's largesse, we have a special Gift Box Sampler, three/4ml spray perfumes of: Pachou Minimale, Cassis et Copains and Cuir Beurre to 1 registered reader in the USA ONLY. You must register to be eligible. Please leave a comment saying which of the new Soivohle perfumes appeal to you the based upon Ida's reviews,  if one of Liz's painting used in this post captured your imagination and if you have a favorite Soivohle fragrance. Draw closes 8/23/2017

We announce the winners only on our site and on our Facebook page so Like Cafleurebon use our RSS feed -or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

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18 comments

  • fqgouvea says:

    To judge by the photos, I like Voices Carry, but I’d prefer to see them live. To judge by the description, I would go for Pachou Minimale, but I’d prefer to smell them!

  • Diana D says:

    All 3 sound so unique. I really like the notes in Cuir Beurre with the sandalwood and labdanum. I’ve never heard of this fragrance house before. I am going to explore their website. I am now following them on Facebook and Instagram.

    I live in the U.S. (New York)

  • judith binns says:

    I’ve been a fan of Soivohle compositions for years. Patchouli and fruit sounds delightful (Patchou Minimale), though I’m sure all 3 are hypnotic. My favorite Soivohle scents are Green Oakmoss, Anubis and a perfume oil (Acousticjus) that she created a few years ago, Flamenco. I’m in Beantown! Thank you, CaFleureBon.

  • Aaron Luke says:

    I’m super interested in the Patchouli scent. I am not a big fan of Patchouli, but this sounds quiet interesting. I’m from New York City

  • Roger Engelhardt says:

    I own 10 from the Soivohle line, 3 full bottles and 7 of tje 10ml size!!
    They are all incredible and last throughout the day!! I had every intention of sampling all 3 in the near future, but I will enter the draw for the fun of it!!
    I am in the USA.

  • Elizabeth T. says:

    Cassis et Copains and and Cuir Beurre (love the name!) sound wonderful to me! Nothing against the third, patchouli and I just have never gotten along very well. Cuir Beurre sounds especially inspired. Thank you for the generous draw! I’m in the USA.

  • Rustee46 says:

    Cassis et Copains would be my first pick, I have enjoyed this combination in other fragrances, especially Dame’s Cassis, Rose, and Sandalwood. The artwork that accompanies this scent (“Paints Like a Grrl”) is cheery and vibrant, I like that one most. I haven’t heard of this brand until now but will investigate the other offerings as well. I live in the US.

  • NiceVULady says:

    Without actual seeing them, I especially like Closer and Terra Animam. I don’t own any Soivohle, so I have no favorites. I think Pachou Minimale would be my first choice although the Cassis et Copains sounds most interesting as well. Thanks for the draw. I live in the USA

  • RoseMacaroon says:

    I love every Soivohle scent I’ve tried, so picking a favorite isn’t easy but I’d say possibly Vanillaville.
    So cozy and satisfying. .. but then there’s Carnation Oudh, which is so cool, so completely in its own vein.
    Similarly, I’m hard pressed to choose one of these new releases, it’s definitely between Pachou Minimale and Current Buerre.
    The descriptions as always are so vivid and tantalizing!
    Thanks for covering these, and of course for the draw!
    I’m in the US.

  • ntabassum92 says:

    I think Cassis et Copains appeals to me the most – the mixture of fruit and floral notes when done by a skilled perfumer sounds sweet and divine. The fruity notes mentioned I haven’t ever smelled together, and they sounds very delicious. I like the painting Paints Like a Girl – the title is awesome, and the colors are soft and “girly”, but the subject matter is unique, I like it. I haven’t yet tried a Soivohle fragrance, thanks for bringing the house to my attention!

  • zamar says:

    I like Pachou Minimale and Cuir Beurre. Closer is more alive to me because I like hotter colors!
    I never tried fragrances from the house, but I am glad for finding this unique house. Thank you!
    I`m in the USA.

  • roxhas1cat says:

    I like that Liz stays focused on her work. So many ‘mainstream’ fragrances smell similar. I didn’t know patchouli is aged. I already have a patchouli that ‘clobbers’, so I am curious about a whispering patchouli. I am most curious about the patchouli, but all 3 sound amazing after reading the notes. Bi am not familiar with this line. Great artucle Ida. Thanks for the chance. I live on the US. .

  • BethMongold says:

    What a fascinating woman Liz is! I love artists who work in many mediums. I would love to try her Cuir Buerre especially. “Voices Carry” was the most intriguing painting to me. Thank you! I live in the US.

  • Carol K says:

    I had an opportunity to visit Liz’ studio a few years ago and have a number of her perfumes. Both her art and perfumes are breathtaking. Thank you for the draw. I’m in the USA.

  • Cynthia says:

    Many years ago I had a handful of samples from this line, before she changed the name to Soivohle (thank you, I never knew how to pronounce that!). I believe the name of the one I remember liking the best was Grand Canyon? Judging from the paintings, my favorite is Terra Animam, but I like the sound of the Patchouli the best. I am always willing to try a new patchouli! It can be so wrong, but when it’s right, it’s so right! Thanks for the article and the draw. USA

  • doveskylark says:

    I enjoyed reading the description of Pachou Minimale. I am intrigued with the pear and ambrette notes meshing with the patchouli. I loved all the paintings in this review, but Liz’s “Voices Carry” was my favorite. I thought of the group ‘Til Tuesday when I saw the painting. I haven’t tried anything from this line, but Lilacs and Heliotrope sounds lovely.
    I live in the USA.

  • Hikmat Sher Afridi says:

    Thanks Ida for the latest three perfumes from Soivohle! Leather & patchouli are one my favorite notes in perfumery as I love dark, animalic, earthy smell. Terra Animam painting is the best IMO. Never tried any of Soivohle fragrances yet. Would love to win!
    Thanks to Liz’s generosity and CafleureBon for the opportunity by letting my relative address in US.

  • hofken says:

    Based on Ida’s review, Soivohle perfumes’ Cuir Beurre appeals most to me. Terra Animam by Liz Zorn captures the “Creamy aged Indian sandalwood, lactones soften rawer notes with rooty orris butter in tow. Sweet fennel drizzles a mild anise bouquet which blooms on my skin in the drydown; perhaps it’s that vanillic-oud-as-caramel base note.” I have not yet had the pleasure of wearing a Soivohle fragrance.