Perfume Review: Strange Invisible Perfumes Epic Gardenia (Alexandra Balhoutis) 2009 + On A Tropic Night Draw

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Alexandra Balahoutis of Strange Invisible perfumes  via instagram

Released in 2009, Strange Invisible Perfumes Epic Gardenia shows off the perfuming prowess of founder and perfumer, Alexandra Balahoutis. Describing her inspiration to build the white floral replica,

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Dorothy Lamour was famous for wearing gardenias in her hair photo 1938

“Gardenia is a very iconic flower in perfumery. It’s a white flower with a vividly colorful, textural scent. I wanted to formulate a natural gardenia fragrance that smelled modern and layered, yet very feminine, referencing past eras’ glamorous picture of the tropics. ”

 

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Gardenia photo by Associate Contributor Sandi Lundberg

Rarity of extraction, although there have been and are artisan macerations and other raw materials available, and not including the Tiare flower (the botanical in Monoi oil, which is a separate species)- for years, Gardenia aromas were feats of aromatic acrobatics which aimed to encapsulate the genus Gardenia jasminoides. While I may admit to wincing at the thought of formerly encountered Gardenia endeavors, often with an acrid overdose of what may or may not be dill or gorgeous white flower bases which, despite a perfumer’s talented esthetic, is not even whispering ‘Rubiaceae’ (the genus of flowering plants in the coffee family, comprised of 140 ‘officially recognized’ species.) Most lacking the depth and variety of aromas found within a gardenia and with no sense of climate or heat from which the scent derives.

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Dorothy Lamour 1939 via her fansite

However, Epic Gardenia succeeds in relating the tropics, with an initial wet velvet leaf ‘welcome to sunny Tahiti’ introduction. Scent molecules float thick and heavy, yet exponentially more perceptible after the monsoon like rain; waxy emerald green leaves exude a botanical musk, intertwining with impossibly white and scandalously inciting petals.

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Dorothy Lamour 1937 apped MC

Because of the very nature of Epic Gardenia is a synergy of other botanicals, it is hard to not want to try to detect what this genuinely layered doppelgänger consists of, so I struggle to allow only aroma references to float through my now fragrant shrub-filled mind. There is a lactonic smoothness, sometimes offering a moment of coconut or banana (most likely inferred notes; with the first perception of Epic Gardenia, my mind has already moved south)- swirled within a white floral melange (perhaps jasmine, tuberose or ylang-ylang.)

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Dorothy Lamour Leaning on A Tree apped by Michelyn Getty

Led and lifted with a most optimistic citrus (bergamot and lemon mingling with ylang my mind suggests) which seems further spiked with something piquant, representing the littering of trees which offer sobriety to the sun seeking exotic botanicals of heated, humid tropical landscape. Ultimately this somewhat intrusive kind of ‘there is no Santa Claus’ guessing game ruins the magic and is easily abandoned for the lingering foliage musk,  which draws and distracts me with the urgency and familiarity of the exotic island twilight,  and my former Floridian home.

NOTES: Custom-distilled esprit de Cognac alcohol from non-GMO, pesticide-free grapes, A proprietary blend of ethically sourced essential oils*

 *Certified Organic, Wildcrafted, Biodynamic, or Pesticide-free

Disclosure: I received my sample from Strange Invisible Perfumes, with much gratitude; Opinions my own

-Einsof, Natural Perfume Editor

Art Direction:  Michelyn Camen, I love Epic Gardenia ever since I first bought it in 2010, and have always envisioned actress and singer Dorothy Lamour wearing it. Coincidently last week I stumbled on her album “On a Tropic Night” on youtube, (the soundtrack from The 1938 movie Tropic Holiday with Ray Milland). Required reading is “In Defense of Natural Perfumery as Olfactory Art, by Alexandra Balahoutis, written at my request for CaFleureBon. I have yet to read a more compelling article on perfumery-botanical or otherwise

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Strange Invisible Perfumes Epic Gardenia via instagram

Strange Invisible Perfumes embraces the Victorian tradition of offering a Gardenia as a message “you are lovely”, which this is so thanks to the team at SIP we have a 50 ml of Epic Gardenia to a registered reader in the CON USA. To be eligible, leave a comment with what you enjoyed about Einsof’s review of Epic Gardenia, where you live and if you have ever smelled a real Gardenia. If you have a favorite Strange Invisible Perfume we would love to know. Draw closely November 17, 2016

We announce the winners on our site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

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19 comments

  • fazalcheema says:

    This Epic Gardenia seems an interesting perfume because it really tempts you to play the guess game. The blending has been such that it is not easy to guess what has come together to result in the final creation called Epic Gardenia. Einsof does detect jasmine and banana notes and there are not many perfumes with good banana notes. I have not smelled a gardenia or it is possible I might have but don’t recall. My favorite Strange Invisible Perfumes creation is Fire and Cream. I am in the US.

  • melisande says:

    As a big fan ofreal gardenia scents I’m always on the look out for a new one. The description of Epic Gardenia sounds so elegant!Thank you for the chance to try!
    My favorite SIP is Leo.
    USA

  • tooka81 says:

    Wow, I love that they use Gardenia as a message to say “you are lovely” thaat is so sweet! I love that Einsof talks about what could and has gone wrong with some Gardenia based fragrances, and how this Epic Gardenia fragrance actually captures an island Tahitian flower feel, it;s not synthetic, it has a real natural fragance. This is fragrance sounds classy and feminine and elegant I would love to have a chance to try this fragrance and experience a fagrance from Strange Invisible Perfumes for the first time. USA

  • sserser says:

    I loved the description of “an initial wet velvet leaf” – paints such an image in my mind, and really helps me to imagine the mood of the fragrance…

    I did smell a real Gardenia, most recently at the beautiful Lan Su Garden in Portland. I’m currently based in Seattle. Thank you!

  • Maya says:

    I not tried any Strange Invisible Perfumes. It’s hardly a secret that I love florals, especially the big white ones. Gardenia is my favorite of them all. I have had gardenia houseplants. They do great outside in summer but when I bring them in they whither away. But the fragrance of the blossoms, so beautiful!!! ” Epic Gardenia succeeds in relating the tropics, with an initial wet velvet leaf ‘welcome to sunnyTahiti’ introduction.” Oh, does that work for me. I’m in the USA.

  • GrandmaGaga says:

    Big White Floral lover, here! I’m not sure whether I have smelled a gardenia; I do know they don’t grow naturally anywhere near me. I enjoyed the review and it’s tie-in with Dorathy Lamour along with the referenced article on natural perfumery…I haven’t been aware of the controversy surrounding it…quite a surprise! I’d love a chance to own an SIP perfume and Epic Gardenia would be a great introduction to the line. I am in the US.

  • Ellen M says:

    An interesting journey to find the elusive gardenia. I am surrounded by gardenias where I live. These beautiful bushes are right in my backyard. I live in the USA. Thanks for the draw.

  • doveskylark says:

    i love that Dorothy Lamour wore gardenias in her hair. Billie Holiday did as well, maybe to remind herself of New Orleans? I love perfumes that evoke the tropics. The “optimistic” citrus note sounds intriguing.
    I used to smell gardenia when I was a kid in North Carolina–the owner of the house my parent’s rented had planted a bush.
    i have never tried anything from Strange Invisible Prefumes, but their Magazine Street sounds like something I’d like.
    I live in the USA.

  • Sciara says:

    I did not know that there was a different type of gardenia, not tiare. “Rarity of extraction, although there have been and are artisan macerations and other raw materials available, and not including the Tiare flower (the botanical in Monoi oil, which is a separate species)” I love SIP black rosette and Aquarian Rose. I hope I win Epic Gardenia, and love Dorothy LAmour. I smelled a gardenia floating in water at a wedding.

  • Hemla says:

    “intertwining with impossibly white and scandalously inciting petals.” -That! Great sentence 🙂 never smelled a real gardenia.
    I happen to live in Israel, but have family in the US -who would recieve the perfume (should I be so lucky) in my name.
    Never sampled a ‘strange invisible’ perfume.

  • Elise P says:

    Lovely review, Einsof and a great pairing with Dorothy Lamour Michelyn! Gardenia and the tropics, whether Florida or Tahiti is a classic pairing and perfectly done here. I have three species of gardenia at my house and try to remember to sniff after dusk! I have sniffed one of her Zodiac perfumes (Aries), perfection! Would love to try this one.

  • Cynthia says:

    I love gardenia and have quite a collection of perfumes with this note. I would love to try a natural perfume featuring gardenia. SI has been around a long time but it is a line I haven’t explored much. I used to love Magazine St. I need to revisit. Thanks for the review and the draw. USA

  • Kate C says:

    Gardenia is a scent that is deep in my memory, but I don’t know if I’ve ever really smelled one or if it was just maybe one of my grandma’s perfumes or potpourris I smelled when I was little? Enjoyed this review and all the different scent notes I could imagine blended together. I’ve not tried a Strange Invisible perfume before but would love to try this. I live in the US. Thanks for the draw!

  • Rosa says:

    I grew up with gardenia bushes around me, the scent was really gorgeous! I was looking for a good “true” white flower scent, based on the review and notes this looks like a great gardenia and citrus combo,I’d love to try.
    Thank you. USA

  • Laurels says:

    This is the quote that pulled me in: “Scent molecules float thick and heavy, yet exponentially more perceptible after the monsoon like rain; waxy emerald green leaves exude a botanical musk, intertwining with impossibly white and scandalously inciting petals.” Yes, please. My mother tells me that my aunt had a gardenia growing near her front door when I was little, and that it smelled wonderful, but I don’t remember it at all. I’m in the US (Southern California).

  • Hikmat Sher Afridi says:

    Thanks for the article and review. Gardenia is a beautiful decorative shrub with fragrant white flowers. Gardenia is a symbol of beauty, love, harmony and grace. Never tried Epic Gardenia nor any of other fragrances from Strange Invisible Perfumes. Gardenia cannot be easily detected in perfumes as it blends well with other floral notes of jasmine & tuberose. Epic Gardenia seems to be a perfect & truly natural gardenia. Would love to win. Scorpio, Etrange and Narcotic from the house of Strange Invisible Perfumes are on want list.
    Thanks for the generosity & opportunity to participate in the draw by giving my relative address residing in NY, US.

  • hofken says:

    I enjoyed Einsof’s review of Epic Gardenia and the speculation of what comprises the gardenia fragrance. I live in the US and have relished the smell of a real Gardenia and appreciate that scent even more now that I know how hard it is to replicate.

  • Rox says:

    Who wouldn’t be interested in scandalously enticing petals!! I loved the pictures, could use some tropics right now as we head into winter. My grandparents had gardenia plants up their walkway in southern California when I was growing up. I tried to grow them in the pacific NW, and even though I babied them, they didn’t make it. I wanted to recapture that scent of my childhood. I’m not familiar with this line. Thanks for the draw.