I know it's seasonally appropriate in the cooler months to bring out the amber, wood, incense and leather perfumes.  Maybe a healthy spritz of a decadent boozy vanilla.  Yes I do it too.  But sometimes I want to swim against the tide, to be swept away by summer memories in the vain hope that a little sunshine will be reflected in the wintery haze. This is when orange perfumes come out to play.  They take away winter’s blackness and make everything seem a little brighter.

Bitter orange tree/Megan

The scent of orange blossom just makes me smile.  It's happiness in a bottle.  I love orange perfumes and the energy boost they deliver as well as the heightened summer memories.  I even love orange blossom water. Italian brand Santa Maria Novella has a particularly beautiful version. The bottle feels like a work of art. It’s heavy glass with that rare mix of heritage (1612) and quality.  I always feel refreshed with a splash on my face as a pick me up in summer. There’s a Bitter Orange tree by my front steps and in summer the scent from its blossoms is simply intoxicating. In winter the tree is laden with its bitter fruit but alas is blossom free. I yearn for summer warmth so the scent can make its return.

Leslie Caron

Fleurs d’Oranger, created in 2003 is one of the most fragrant perfumes in the Serge Lutens canon. It’s a stunning rendition of the bitter orange tree blossom. It smells very similar to the tree in the front garden so top marks to perfumer Christopher Sheldrake for capturing this aspect so well. This is not what I would call a happy orange perfume like Orange Sanguine from Atelier Cologne (Ralf Schweiger), nor does it have the warmth or sultry vibe of Seville à l'aube (Bertrand Duchafour) by L’Artisan Parfumeur.  Serge Lutens Fleurs d'Oranger offers a very French and sophisticated take on orange blossom, with an air of elegance.  This is not an overly sweet or cloying perfume by any means.

 

Homer Winslow

There is an indolic aspect to Fleurs d’Oranger that adds depth and intrigue while removing the sweetness that often prevails with white florals. The opening citrus burst makes for a slightly bitter, medicinal effect that is not unpleasant but steers away from the sweetness that one might expect. The citrus mixed with the white florals makes for a heady combination, yet there is a certain level of reserve in its charm.  It is a fabulous rendition of not only the bitter orange blossom but also of its white floral bedmates jasmine and tuberose. The tuberose shines in the dry down with a creaminess that feels quite similar to the latter stages of Tubéreuse Criminelle. The jasmine comes across as beautifully natural.  This is not a dolled up to the nines version with that cheap, screechy feel.

A smidgen of spiciness is evident in Fleurs d'Oranger but is lightly done and not overpowering.  Now apparently cumin has a notable presence in this perfume, yet I can't smell it in an overt way.  I have read that the scent has been reformulated, so if you have an older bottle with the Palais Royale logo the cumin may be more pronounced in this version.  I have tried the breathtaking, drop dead gorgeous Rubj from Vero Profumo and the EdP version has a distinct cumin note.  So if you’ve tried this, Vero’s reading of cumin is much more pronounced than in Fleurs d’Oranger.

Ruby Aldridge for L’Officiel Paris by Taki Bibelas

Fleurs d'Oranger is one of those perfectly styled floral arrangements.  A stand out feature of this perfume is that it reads as natural and releases beautiful throws of scent from time to time and you wonder who is smelling so great and finally realise that it's you. This fragrance seems quintessentially French to me as it evokes the smell of an over heated summer’s night spent outdoors in the greenery, hopefully having a delicious meal with friends.  However a more elegant face presents as a well put together Parisian walking the streets anticipating a rendezvous. She is impeccably dressed, while happily drowning in sprays of Fleurs d’Oranger, inhaling that mesmerising orange scent.

Disclosure : From my own bottle

Megan, Sr Contributor and Editor of the lifestyle blog, Megan In Sainte Maxime

Art Direction: Michelyn Camen Happy Birthday to Serge Lutens born March 14, 1942

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