Edouard Roschi and Fabrice Penot, Founders and Creative Directors of Le Labo
Founded in in 2006, by Creative Directors Fabrice Penot and Edouard Roschi Le Labo perfumes stand out from the crowd with their modern minimalist apothecary flacon and a naming convention that identifies the key note and number of ingredients. Not only is the branding switched on but the perfumes feel bespoke (each bottle is created fresh and has your name, the date, where it was hand poured on the label)
Each year Le Labo offer their range of city exclusives for one month. Currently we can sample them and in September we can buy Tubereuse 40 (New York) 2006, Vanille 44 (Paris), 2007 Poivre 23 (London) 2008, Musc 25 (Los Angeles) 2008, Gaiac 10 (Tokyo) 2008 , Baie Rose 26 (Chicago) 2010, Limette 37 (San Francisco) 2013, Cuir 28 (Dubai)2013, and Benjoin 19 (Moscow) 2013.
Vanille 44, composed by Master perfumer Alberto Morillas is dedicated to Paris, one of my favourite cities. I love vanilla perfumes, particularly if they are smoky and / or boozy. Occasionally I’m in the mood for candied vanilla. I adore Vanille Tonka from Parfums de Nicolaï with its flickering of incense. And there is the addictive, alluring rum soaked vanilla of Vanille Absolument from Bertrand Duchaufour for L’Artisan Parfumeur that I adore and the orange clove spiced up Les Nombres D’Or Vanille by Mona Di Orio. I recently fell for Lune Féline from Atelier des Ors, which launched in Milan this year… a sumptuous, gluttonous loved up vanilla that seems to add sugar by the spoonful. Although Vanille 44 was introduced in 2007, this is my first time with Le Labo’s scented interpretation of the city of lights, perfume and seduction. And it does not disappoint.
Sam Taylor-Johnson Suspended self portrait
Vanille 44 is not one of his blockbuster heavy hitters of the Le Labo Line (we are looking at you Rose 31 and Santal 33) . It’s won’t knock your senses around and batter, bruise and bring you to your knees. Neither will it take you on numerous paths and detours. This is instead, a vanilla that speaks to an understated sexiness that wraps and enfolds in its cashmere-like softness. The vanilla is light, transparent and pays homage to the pod rather than the sugary, sticky treats that too frequently tempt me in the French patisseries. This is a more pared back take on vanilla and is one of those scents that vanilla phobes will be able to inhale, and enjoy, but it’s also one for those of us who prefer more heavily textured scents. This is a gentle respite, a harbour from the storm.
Suspended Self Portrait Sam Taylor-Johnson is an artist, photographer as well as the Director of Fifty Shades of Grey
For all it’s labeling as a vanilla perfume, and remember the “44” represents the number of ingredients used, it is a study in simplexity with the interplay with woods and incense hinting at its true nature. A provocative guaiac wood lends a smoky quality that the gauzy vanilla. Adding to the seduction factor is a light amber sheen that adds warmth and mystery
Sam Taylor-Johnson is 48 and her husband Aaron is 24
Le Labo Vanille 44 wears a relaxed yet sophisticated elegance. It’s a special perfume that doesn’t scream and shout for your attention like an overeager first date. As any French man/woman knows, romance builds slowly, a well planned seduction takes time until the object of your desire is besotted. You will want to spray it on skin repeatedly. Preferably naked in bed.
Notes include: natural bergamot, incense, mandarine, gaiac, vanille bourbon, muscenone, pipol, and hedione.
Author’s Note: Master Perfumer Alberto Morillas of Firmenich won the coveted Prix Francois Coty in 2003 and ten years later brought home the Perfumer of the Year Lifetime Achievement award from The Fragrance Foundation. Among M. Morillas’ creations are two perfumes that defined the 90’s – CKOne from Calvin Klein and Armani’s Acqua di Gio. He composed M7 (Yves Saint Laurent), one of the first perfumes to bring oud to western noses.* He is also responsible for Mugler Cologne, a futuristic, robotic cologne. More recent creations include Palissandre d’Or, the latest addition to the Aedes de Venustas range and Iris Prima the scent inspired by the English National Ballet from Penhaglions , Eau d’Italie’s floating floral Au Lac and Eric Buterbaugh’scrystalline Apollo Hyacinth. He is also the nose behind the first Le Labo city exclusive – Tubereuse 40 New York. M. Morillas writes formulas by hand. “My handwriting is my emotion. When I write the formula, I can smell the perfume.” (Penhaglions.com)
* According to Fragrance Expert Michael Edwards of Fragrances of the World, who had a seminar on oud in Western Perfumery at Esxence 2015, M7 was not the first western perfume to introduce oud, as is commonly thought. Michael Edwards revealed it was Balenciaga Pour Homme .
disclosure: Sample provided by Le Labo. Opinions my own.
Megan Paki, Editor and Editor of Megan In Sainte Maxime
Vanille 44 City Exclusive Paris Sample photo ÇaFleureBon
Thanks to Le Labo we have a sample of Vanille 44 for one reader anywhere in the world. To be eligible you must be a registered CaFleureBon reader. Please leave a comment with what you enjoyed about Megan’s review, your favorite Le Labo fragrance and a city where you wish Le Labo would open a boutique. Draw closes 8/19/2015.
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