Perfume Review: Dame Perfumery Black Flower Mexican Vanilla + You’re Trying to Seduce Me Mrs. Robinson Draw

       the graduate dustin hoffman  in pool with mrs robinson

The Graduate Dustin Hoffman in the Pool with Mr and Mrs Robinson 1967 (Mike Nichols)

Summer is halfway gone, and the pools are packed with pale people flipping themselves like grilled chicken on a backyard barbeque, with everyone trying to get perfectly caramelized before September comes (and school, and work, and layered clothes).  High summer scents are everywhere, from tropical cocoa butter lotion to the salty tang of ocean air.   Our senses are in full bloom now, deliriously awash in possibility, while simultaneously drugged from humidity and relentless sunshine.  But let’s face it -Summer Is Sexy.  You can’t be around all those grilled chicken people without getting a little curious, right?

leg scene the graduate

You are trying to seduce me Mrs Robinson..Aren't you? The Graduate Ann Bancroft and Dustin Hoffman the Leg scene

But you don’t want to have Summer Lovin’ Grilled Guy Candidate #1 suddenly bail out because you smell like the seaweed drying out at the surf line, right?  You need something dark, mysterious and most of all – seductive to help the margarita medicine go down on the first date.  Something that’s equal parts Girl Next Door and MILF.

cougar perfume

Stylized portrait of  Mrs Robinson a Cougar 1960s style (original source Vanity Fair, photo Bob Willoughby)

For me, most tropical perfumes don’t cut it.  I’m a middle aged woman, and most fruity florals or bright citrus scents have a “bippity-boo” and forced feel to them on my skin.  I want something darker and more exotic.  I want to make my prey feel like Dustin Hoffman did in The Graduate, when Mrs. Robinson (Anne Bancroft) is smoking cigarettes and toying with him in her living room.   I need a little spice, and a little sweet and a whole lot of “you’re…you’re trying to seduce me…..aren’t you?”

black flower mexican  vanilla dame perfumery

Black Flower Mexican Vanilla Perfume

 So thank you Jeffery Dame of Dame Perfumery out of Scottsdale, Arizona for bringing us Black Flower Mexican Vanilla.  Black Flower Mexican Vanilla is an EdP and part of Dame Perfumery’s Artist Collection Series, with each bottle showcasing gorgeous hand-drawn labels courtesy of V. Dame Dame, (who is the father of founder and perfumer Jeffery Dame.)

smoky vanilla cafleurebon

Smoky vanilla pods and flower

Black Flower Mexican Vanilla is based around a rich, warm, and pitch-perfect  Mexican vanilla absolute, dusted with a slight shimmer of grapefruit and lemon on top that is deliriously fun to wear after a day at the beach.  The vanilla isn’t flat or flabby or too blunt here at all – it’s dark, and smoky (like a real vanilla pod smells) and it LOVES hot weather.

scene flowers plants the graduate

Still from the closing of The Graduate

There’s just enough citrus in the opening here to keep things fresh from the get-go, and the lemon/grapefruit hit remains energizing and vibrant for several minutes before the heart in the scent develops. The sweetness continues on after the top citrus fades, and the lemon and grapefruit shifts into jasmine and gardenia flowing around caramel and nutmeg.  The transition is almost sleight-of-hand seamless from top to heart – suddenly you’re aware that the citrus zing in the opening has softened into silky damask florals, but which are still wrapped around the core warmth of caramel and vanilla.  One of the best aspects of this scent is how articulately the theme of a filigreed sweetness is woven through it.  It’s as if you were visiting an artisanal chocolatier, and they presented you with a trio of caramels, each with its own real fruit, edible flowers or Indian spices delicately drawn on top.

the-graduate-mrs-robinson-mike-nichols

Mrs Robinson  Cougar Chic

The individual notes are done with a subtlety and lightness, and all are elegantly toned throughout the development of the perfume – this is no thudding, monochromatic gourmand.  It’s a confident and sophisticated perfume, so much so that it nearly has a drape to it, the way finely-tailored outfits do. Black Mexican Vanilla carries an inner, sophisticated poise as much as it is about the sexy fun time later.  There’s enough complexity here so if guy watching can’t keep you amused while waiting for your apps, you can enjoy this scent in the meantime. The sillage is perfect for first dates, also – very soft, and close to the skin.  He’ll have to lean in slightly to experience this one, but there’s definitely enough radiance happening to cast you in an inviting glow while you get to know each other. The staying power is average – you won’t have any problem with leftover scents walking home with you the next day if the evening seems headed in that direction. The drydown carries the theme of “something sweet wrapped in something not” vibe well, with a toasted tonka bean edged with a dry, dusty patchouli and mossy vetiver, but you should be well-acquainted by now with G.C. #1 and ready to move on to dessert.  The deal should be sealed well before these herbal notes arrive.  Think of the drydown as more of a fragile, lasting hint of the sand dunes and marsh grass you left behind hours earlier.

dustin hoffman suit

Dustin Hoffman "Ben" wearing a suit The Graduate

I should also say here that this scent can definitely be worn by a man as well – there’s nothing overtly feminine or masculine happening as it glides along.  Vanilla-based fragrances work as aphrodisiacs for both genders equally well, and if happened to show up at the restaurant rocking a light linen suit with this perfume on, he’d have an easy time of it I think, Mrs. Robinson. Notes: Vanilla absolute, Lemon, Grapefruit, Caramel, Nutmeg, Gardenia, Jasmine, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Vetiver, Musk, Tonka bean

Pam Barr, Contributor

Disclosure; I received my sample in the December 2014 Olfactif sampler

Art Direction: Michelyn Camen

olfactif.com sample set

Thanks to Olfactif.com, we have a draw as follows for a registered US reader: You can choose the December Olfactif Sampler which included Lira, DSH Vanille and Black Flower, the upcoming August sampler of three 2.5 ml sprayers (yet to be announced) or $20 off  ANY bottle of perfume at olfactof.com.  To be eligible, leave a comment with your favorite “cougar" in a movie or TV Show, and what you enjoyed about Pam’s review, as well as what you would like to win.. coo coo ca choo. Draw closes July 31, 2015

We announce the winner’s only onsite and on our Facebook page, so Like CaFleureBon and use our RSS option…..or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume

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17 comments

  • madeleine gallay says:

    Cougar chic … absolutely. Black Flower Mexican Vanilla Perfume, smoky vanilla and tropical nights. Exotic, romantic and sandy feet dipping into the ocean and something icy cold to drink.

    A bit of a vacation.

    Love the cougar chic … absolutely using that again and again. Courtney Cox comes to mind, sultry, cool and irresistible, I think.

  • I smiled my way through this post. I loved how Pam wants her “prey to feel like Dustin Hoffman did”. It’s a fun review. Mmmm, maybe one can just catch and release? The greatest couger of all – Mae West! The December Olfactif Sampler would be the one for me.

  • MikasMinion says:

    I really enjoyed this review. I own and wear BFMV and agree that it has a smoky, sultry edge but also a hint of artificiality that agrees with the cougar comparison. I wish I could think of my favorite fictional cougar but am afraid that they are all overshadowed by the ones I know in real life. Also, I rarely watch tv. Still, I would love to be entered in the draw and prefer the upcoming August sampler. I’m in the U.S.

  • fazalcheema says:

    I learnt from the review that Black Flower honors Dame Perfumery’s guiding principles which are simplicity and ijust the right sillage…it is approp. for both casual wear and dates. my favor. cougar is Samantha from Sex and the City. My choice will be August sampler set. I am in the US

  • I had fun looking at all the Graduate movie shots. I enjoyed reading the description of the Black Flower Mexican Vanilla. One of the rare times I read of something here I actually smelled beforehand. My long time favorite cougar is Helen Mirren. My pick would be the yet to be announced August sample set. USA

  • Wonderful analogy to the chocolate gourmand overtones, along with all the floral & citrus notes, I felt like I’m going through the cupping of some Kenyan or Panamanian estate coffees 🙂 Thank you for the sensual delight!
    I also strongly support vanilla unisex nature – it’s all the matter of skin, personality & context, after all.
    Cougar archetypes coming to my mind are Catherine Deneuve, Isabella Rossellini, Susan Sarandon & Glenn Close (for some reason 🙂 )
    My pick is the December vanilla set.

  • Systeme D says:

    I just tried Dark Horse by Dame Perfumery, and it is lovely. Black Flower Mexican Vanilla is now next on my list to try. A dark and smoky vanilla that can be worn in the summer — well, that’s unusual, and certainly something worth seeking out! Extra thanks to Pam for pointing out that it’s wearable by both men and women. I applaud when reviewers acknowledge that so many fragrances resist stringent gendering.

    I’m having a hard time identifying a “cougar” from film — perhaps Gradisca from Amarcord will do.

    I’d love to win August’s Olfactif sampler, because I love surprises.

  • Jennifer Witt says:

    My favorite cougar is Demi Moore. Wait! No! Susan Sarandon! I would love to try the sampler, my favorite bit from the review was the great pictures. I’m a sucker for pretty pictures. I live in the US

  • I enjoyed The Reader as a film that has a powerful cougar story expressed in it. Kate Winslet was the actress. I enjoyed the references to The Graduate in the review, what a movie that was and still remains with us just as strong it seems. Well some of us I suppose. I would love the sampler.I am a registered US reader.

  • I love The Graduate. Anne Bancroft was so sexy and seductive in this movie! I happen to love tropical and vanilla fragrances when done right. I agree some can come off too young, too linear. However Black Flower Mexican Vanilla sounds beautiful, especially with the lemon note.

    My favorite Cougar is Mrs. Robinson herself! She is the ultimate mature seductress!

    I think I’d like to be surprised so August sampler set it is!

    I’m in the USA. Thank you!

  • I have sampled this perfume and it is lovely. I hadn’t thought about it but it does present a more “mature” vibe compared to other vanillas. Mrs. Robinson set the bar for the cougar character in movies and tv. I love surprises so if I win, I would choose the August sample set. Thanks for the draw!

  • I loved the comparison to Mrs. Robinson in the movie! She is also probably my favorite cougar. If I won, I would like to win the August sampler set. Thanks! I am in the US.

  • Harold and Maude is my favorite “older woman, younger man” romance (I’m not so sure 79-year-old Maude was exactly a “cougar” though). I enjoyed Pam’s review and agree in that as I’m also “a middle aged woman, and most fruity florals or bright citrus scents have a “bippity-boo” and forced feel to them on my skin. I want something darker and more exotic”. I’ve worn Black Flower Mexican Vanilla and it’s one of my favorite fragrances. I would like to win the upcoming August Olfactif sampler.

  • The luscious descriptions were my favorite part of this review, they made it easy to imagine the scent and also made me crave it–and chocolate: “The transition is almost sleight-of-hand seamless from top to heart – suddenly you’re aware that the citrus zing in the opening has softened into silky damask florals, but which are still wrapped around the core warmth of caramel and vanilla.”

    “bippity-boo” is my new favorite way to describe how some cheerful fruity scents clash with me.

    I’m not really up on cougars, but after some refreshing I remembers Thelma and Louise, aka Susan Sarandon, Geena Davis, and Angela Basset in Stella . Harold and Maude has been on my to-see list forever

    USA December sampler would be my choice

  • hm. i am not usually a vanilla lover. but this. sounds good. so the december sampler it is.

  • p.p.s. to elaborate: far as i’m concerned: its just women being sexual with whoever they’re drawn to. what’s age got to do with it?