November 17, 2018
Notes From The Lab: Is Your Perfume All Natural? Part 1
via flickr
Educated consumers want to know what’s in their cosmetics and if their perfume is really "all-natural".This is understandable with information that has come to light that there have been ingredients that are, harmful, carcinogenic, environmentally unsafe. I am not a fan of what groups like EWG (Environment Working Group) have started a "witch-hunt" for nasty ingredients, harmful chemicals putting houses on the defensive, as if they are doing something wrong.
Jasmin Sambac – Benzaldehyde, Benzyl Alcohol, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyk Salicylate, Cinnamic Alcohol, Geraniol. (common allergens)
Is Your Perfume All Natural? That is a question I hear often in my role as an industry insider and perfumer for natural and organic brands in both beauty and fragrance. What is safe and what is not? Every consumer needs to decide for themselves what they want to use or stay away from but where is there credible source for information? While one organization states a chemical like DEP (diethyl phthalate) a plasticizer is harmful, further research has found this to be valid data and this ingredient is removed and replaced by other chemicals.
Then, there are other organizations that state that a chemical Myrcene, or β-myrcene is cancer causing. That chemical is in many natural oils and while one test shows it is harmful, I always say to consider the dosage.
Sustainable Sandalwood courtesy of CPLaromas
I am a big fan of natural ingredients when they are sustainable. There is a growing commitment by major Flavor and Fragrance companies to ensure sustainability if it is not as profitable. Fine fragrance and artisan brands will lead the way since they are after all, a luxury product and sustainablitly is becoming as important to many as "Is your perfume All Natural?
Natural isolates via flickr
Is Your Perfume All Natural? Is there a true definition of natural? Are isolates natural? The definition for a natural standard is under review for fragrances, will all agencies agree on it? Is fractional distillation (isolates) acceptable with this definition? What type of processing is acceptable? Unlike organic products, where there is a governing body, the USDA, there is no organization like this to determine the answer to "Is Your Perfume All Natural?
Rose Oil – Allergens Citral, Citronellol, Eugenol, Methyl Eugenol (commonly contain allergens)
If this is a desire for transparency to see if there are "allergens" "toxic ingredients" in their product, a list of ingredients used acceptable was published by P&G showing all the fragrance ingredients used. Many consumers I speak with didn’t realize that these allergens occur naturally in the essential oils they think are safe because of the terminology “natural”. Unless this "natural" ingredient list is published voluntarily by the Beauty brand with the cooperation of the fragrance house, it is impossible to tell. Even with GC/MS you can’t determine this with 100% certainty so I'm not sure if this can even be answered. Now that the FDA has finally had time to review the e-cig / vaping phenomenon, “Juul”, who sells vapes has finally admitted defeat – they are eliminating its fruity flavors (teen favorites like cucumber and mango, not natural). The Federal Trade Commission will be reviewing “natural and green” claims on cosmetics again so that terms like vegan, gluten free will be addressed.
Antonio Mora
Since fragrances are still considered a "trade secret" many manufacturers (houses) won't divulge the ingredients. There is much more transparency in indie/artisan houses who depend on the good will of their clients and the trust they have gained over many years. For example, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz of DSH Perfumes will declare a scent is 98.5 percent botanical and that1.5 percent is not, therefore she never claims it is a natural perfume (see Voice of Trees).
We will continue the conversation in Part 2
Darryl Do, Professional Perfumer and President of Delbiado Do
Art Direction-Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief
Darryl has been a professional perfume for 25 years. Delbiado Do is independently owned and has been a USDA certified supplier of Organic materials of decade.
As a perfumista, do you want to know the answer to Is Your Perfume All Natural? Do you think there should be more regulations?
Thank you, Darryl, for taking on this confusing subject. If we consider what it takes to process even the materials termed “botanicals”, the question of what is “natural” or “synthesized “ or “naturally created” becomes even more problematic. I think a whole new lexicon is necessary to help consumers like me, who are not chemists or perfumers, better understand our favorite fragrances. I’m looking forward to more articles like this one that will help clear the air and dispel the confusion.
I love natural materials and appreciate natural perfumery. Yes, I’d want to know to which degree my perfume is made of botanicals.
I’m not a fan of EWG either. Loved the statement “Consider the dosage.” I believe this is true in every aspect of our lives today more than ever. I have seen reactions to essential oils because the consumer does not understand that these allergens occur naturally in the essential oils they think are safe because of the terminology “natural, and consider it safe to use more. I also am looking forward to more articles on this subject. Thanks, Darryl for your knowledge and expertise and or opinions.
Highly informative, thank you!
I’m looking forward to further instalments in these new series.
Thank you, Darryl. This discussion is very much needed.
When customers march in and state they can only wear “natural” perfumes, it quickly becomes obvious that they really do not know what that means. It’s more like they are convinced by hearsay. Just like those who say they cannot wear “musk”. when they don’t even know what it is.
Looking forward to Part II…
Great story Darryl & Michelyn. I’ve only recently discovered natural perfumes and find that I’m using them/buying them more and more. We are exposed to so many chemicals in our day to day lives that it’s nice to know what I’m spraying on my skin. It’s one small thing, but all those small things – clean eating, natural skin care products, etc – add up to being a tiny bit kinder to your body. Plus, I find I love natural perfumes. They seem to last a bit longer on me, and project a bit better. I love them in solid and oil formulations as well as EDP.
I’m so grateful for reading this topic here, thank you, thank you! I am a founding member of the IPF (International Perfume Foundation) where I headed a team where we put together strict criteria for natural perfumers to be certified. As someone who is extremely chemically sensitive I have not had any challenges with essential oil, absolute or C02 extracts, especially from small artisan distillers. Ultimately being tuned into our bodies and what makes us “feel” good and being aware of the affects on the planet is an excellent marker to follow.
There are a number of natural perfumes I like because of the scent & the appreciation that natural perfumers have to come up with their own unique & innovative ways of making fragrances. Other than that, I personally have no problem with aroma chemicals or fixatives unless they are used in unsafe dosages which have been consistently confirmed by research. I feel that common allergens should be listed but beyond that I don’t need to know every ingredient. I can appreciate the transparency of an ingredient list but it’s not something I find necessary. I personally have a sensitivity to the ubiquitous Shea butter in skincare products, but I have come to trust certain brands, learned to pay attention to how my body reacts to new products & I certainly don’t have an expectation that a restriction be placed on Shea butter because there’s a remote possibility that someone may have a negative reaction to it.
This topic needs more of an explanation to the general public since there is a great deal of misinformation out there on the web. I will continue this topic next spring after I have had a chance to discuss this further with the FDA and FTC on how they are approaching labeling and claims. Look out for Part II
Thank you for writing part i, Darryl, and I’m looking forward to part II.
It’s an area where people need more education so they can make informed choices for themselves. “Natural”, even if everyone could agree on a definition, does not mean more healthful. Also sustainability is an important part of the conversation for me. I am happy we are having that conversation here on CaFleureBon.