• About Us
  • Perfumes Notes
    & Ingredients
  • Perfumer Interviews
  • Blogroll
  • Contact Us




http://www.cafleurebon.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/dsh.gif

November 17, 2018

Notes From The Lab: Is Your Perfume All Natural? Part 1

via flickr

Educated consumers want to know what’s in their cosmetics and if their perfume is  really "all-natural".This is understandable with information that has come to light that there have been ingredients that are, harmful, carcinogenic, environmentally unsafe. I am not a fan of what groups like EWG (Environment Working Group) have started a "witch-hunt" for nasty ingredients, harmful chemicals putting houses on the defensive, as if they are doing something wrong.

Jasmin Sambac – Benzaldehyde, Benzyl Alcohol, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyk Salicylate, Cinnamic Alcohol, Geraniol. (common allergens)

Is Your Perfume All Natural? That is a question I hear often in my role as an industry insider and perfumer for natural and organic brands in both beauty and fragrance. What is safe and what is not? Every consumer needs to decide for themselves what they want to use or stay away from but where is there credible source for information? While one organization states a chemical like DEP (diethyl phthalate) a plasticizer is harmful, further research has found this to be valid data and this ingredient is removed and replaced by other chemicals.

Then, there are other organizations that state that a chemical Myrcene, or β-myrcene is cancer causing. That chemical is in many natural oils and while one test shows it is harmful, I always say to consider the dosage.

Sustainable Sandalwood courtesy of CPLaromas

I am a big fan of natural ingredients when they are sustainable. There is a growing commitment by major Flavor and Fragrance companies to ensure sustainability if it is not as profitable. Fine fragrance and artisan brands will lead the way since they are after all, a luxury product and sustainablitly is becoming as important to many as "Is your perfume All Natural? 

Natural isolates via flickr

Is Your Perfume All Natural? Is there a true definition of natural? Are isolates natural? The definition for a natural standard is under review for fragrances, will all agencies agree on it? Is fractional distillation (isolates) acceptable with this definition? What type of processing is acceptable?  Unlike organic products, where there is a governing body, the USDA, there is no organization like this to determine  the answer to "Is Your Perfume All Natural? 

Rose Oil – Allergens Citral, Citronellol, Eugenol, Methyl Eugenol (commonly contain allergens)

If this is a desire for transparency to see if there are "allergens" "toxic ingredients" in their product, a list of ingredients used acceptable was published by P&G showing all the fragrance ingredients used. Many consumers I speak with didn’t realize that these allergens occur naturally in the essential oils they think are safe because of the terminology “natural”. Unless this "natural" ingredient list is published voluntarily by the Beauty brand with the cooperation of the fragrance house, it is impossible to tell. Even with GC/MS you can’t determine this with 100% certainty so I'm not sure if this can even be answered. Now that the FDA has finally had time to review the e-cig / vaping phenomenon, “Juul”, who sells vapes has finally admitted defeat – they are eliminating its fruity flavors (teen favorites like cucumber and mango, not natural). The Federal Trade Commission will be reviewing “natural and green” claims on cosmetics again so that terms like vegan, gluten free will be addressed.

Antonio Mora

Since fragrances are still considered a "trade secret" many manufacturers (houses) won't divulge the ingredients. There is much more transparency in indie/artisan houses who depend on the good will of their clients and the trust they have gained over many years. For example, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz of DSH Perfumes will declare a scent is 98.5 percent botanical and that1.5 percent is not, therefore she never claims it is a natural perfume (see Voice of Trees).

 We will continue the conversation in Part 2 

Darryl Do, Professional Perfumer and President of Delbiado Do

Art Direction-Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief

Darryl has been a professional perfume for 25 years. Delbiado Do is independently owned and has been a USDA certified supplier of Organic materials of decade.

As a perfumista, do you want to know   the answer to Is Your Perfume All Natural? Do you think there should be more regulations?

 

Share

10 Comments

  1. avatar Gail says:
    November 17, 2018 at 9:05 pm

    Thank you, Darryl, for taking on this confusing subject. If we consider what it takes to process even the materials termed “botanicals”, the question of what is “natural” or “synthesized “ or “naturally created” becomes even more problematic. I think a whole new lexicon is necessary to help consumers like me, who are not chemists or perfumers, better understand our favorite fragrances. I’m looking forward to more articles like this one that will help clear the air and dispel the confusion.

  2. avatar Esther says:
    November 18, 2018 at 9:51 am

    I love natural materials and appreciate natural perfumery. Yes, I’d want to know to which degree my perfume is made of botanicals.

  3. avatar SandiL says:
    November 18, 2018 at 11:45 am

    I’m not a fan of EWG either. Loved the statement “Consider the dosage.” I believe this is true in every aspect of our lives today more than ever. I have seen reactions to essential oils because the consumer does not understand that these allergens occur naturally in the essential oils they think are safe because of the terminology “natural, and consider it safe to use more. I also am looking forward to more articles on this subject. Thanks, Darryl for your knowledge and expertise and or opinions.

  4. avatar DespinaVnt says:
    November 18, 2018 at 12:40 pm

    Highly informative, thank you!
    I’m looking forward to further instalments in these new series.

  5. avatar Ann says:
    November 18, 2018 at 8:37 pm

    Thank you, Darryl. This discussion is very much needed.
    When customers march in and state they can only wear “natural” perfumes, it quickly becomes obvious that they really do not know what that means. It’s more like they are convinced by hearsay. Just like those who say they cannot wear “musk”. when they don’t even know what it is.

    Looking forward to Part II…

  6. avatar Monica Beaton says:
    November 18, 2018 at 11:24 pm

    Great story Darryl & Michelyn. I’ve only recently discovered natural perfumes and find that I’m using them/buying them more and more. We are exposed to so many chemicals in our day to day lives that it’s nice to know what I’m spraying on my skin. It’s one small thing, but all those small things – clean eating, natural skin care products, etc – add up to being a tiny bit kinder to your body. Plus, I find I love natural perfumes. They seem to last a bit longer on me, and project a bit better. I love them in solid and oil formulations as well as EDP.

  7. avatar Roxana Villa says:
    November 19, 2018 at 1:20 am

    I’m so grateful for reading this topic here, thank you, thank you! I am a founding member of the IPF (International Perfume Foundation) where I headed a team where we put together strict criteria for natural perfumers to be certified. As someone who is extremely chemically sensitive I have not had any challenges with essential oil, absolute or C02 extracts, especially from small artisan distillers. Ultimately being tuned into our bodies and what makes us “feel” good and being aware of the affects on the planet is an excellent marker to follow.

  8. avatar Michelle says:
    November 19, 2018 at 7:06 pm

    There are a number of natural perfumes I like because of the scent & the appreciation that natural perfumers have to come up with their own unique & innovative ways of making fragrances. Other than that, I personally have no problem with aroma chemicals or fixatives unless they are used in unsafe dosages which have been consistently confirmed by research. I feel that common allergens should be listed but beyond that I don’t need to know every ingredient. I can appreciate the transparency of an ingredient list but it’s not something I find necessary. I personally have a sensitivity to the ubiquitous Shea butter in skincare products, but I have come to trust certain brands, learned to pay attention to how my body reacts to new products & I certainly don’t have an expectation that a restriction be placed on Shea butter because there’s a remote possibility that someone may have a negative reaction to it.

  9. avatar Darryl Do says:
    November 20, 2018 at 1:26 pm

    This topic needs more of an explanation to the general public since there is a great deal of misinformation out there on the web. I will continue this topic next spring after I have had a chance to discuss this further with the FDA and FTC on how they are approaching labeling and claims. Look out for Part II

  10. avatar spritzi says:
    November 20, 2018 at 5:18 pm

    Thank you for writing part i, Darryl, and I’m looking forward to part II.
    It’s an area where people need more education so they can make informed choices for themselves. “Natural”, even if everyone could agree on a definition, does not mean more healthful. Also sustainability is an important part of the conversation for me. I am happy we are having that conversation here on CaFleureBon.

Leave a Comment

Click here to cancel reply.



  • Cafleurebon Login

    Register
    Login
    Forgot Password



  • jus box perfumes ZGO
 Perfumery
    Indigo Perfumery Dusita Paris
    Perris Houbigan
    Shay And Blue Osme Perfumery
    L'arganique Beaute Antonio Alessandria
    Tonatto /a> Pryn Parfum
    Gallagher
    solstice scents Aether Art Perfume
    Madame Aucoin Perfume Belle Fleur
    INEKE

    Phoenix

       
  • Recent Comments
    • WaltherP99 said:
      Smoky and at the same time fruity buttery leather i like-sigh me in pls. I do like al...
    • Monica Beaton said:
      Great story! I love Jacqueline’s comment on the disconnect between House and Pe...
    • gunmetal24 said:
      I love her fierce intelligence and wit. That soft serve ice cream analogy is perfect....
    • cressit said:
      One has to make a choice of whether or not you want to separate the creator from the...
  • Back Issues- Archives
    • February 2019 (42)
    • January 2019 (58)
    • December 2018 (60)
    • November 2018 (60)
    • October 2018 (58)
    • September 2018 (64)
    • August 2018 (62)
    • July 2018 (57)
    • June 2018 (62)
    • May 2018 (60)
    • April 2018 (60)
    • March 2018 (66)
    • February 2018 (61)
    • January 2018 (61)
    • December 2017 (64)
    • November 2017 (65)
    • October 2017 (63)
    • September 2017 (74)
    • August 2017 (66)
    • July 2017 (60)
    • June 2017 (61)
    • May 2017 (73)
    • April 2017 (65)
    • March 2017 (60)
    • February 2017 (58)
    • January 2017 (58)
    • December 2016 (60)
    • November 2016 (63)
    • October 2016 (62)
    • September 2016 (63)
    • August 2016 (68)
    • July 2016 (61)
    • June 2016 (59)
    • May 2016 (69)
    • April 2016 (57)
    • March 2016 (70)
    • February 2016 (59)
    • January 2016 (62)
    • December 2015 (64)
    • November 2015 (65)
    • October 2015 (63)
    • September 2015 (67)
    • August 2015 (69)
    • July 2015 (68)
    • June 2015 (69)
    • May 2015 (73)
    • April 2015 (67)
    • March 2015 (70)
    • February 2015 (58)
    • January 2015 (60)
    • December 2014 (61)
    • November 2014 (65)
    • October 2014 (70)
    • September 2014 (64)
    • August 2014 (68)
    • July 2014 (80)
    • June 2014 (71)
    • May 2014 (74)
    • April 2014 (70)
    • March 2014 (86)
    • February 2014 (59)
    • January 2014 (64)
    • December 2013 (62)
    • November 2013 (62)
    • October 2013 (65)
    • September 2013 (63)
    • August 2013 (73)
    • July 2013 (62)
    • June 2013 (63)
    • May 2013 (66)
    • April 2013 (60)
    • March 2013 (66)
    • February 2013 (59)
    • January 2013 (62)
    • December 2012 (63)
    • November 2012 (60)
    • October 2012 (65)
    • September 2012 (73)
    • August 2012 (70)
    • July 2012 (61)
    • June 2012 (60)
    • May 2012 (67)
    • April 2012 (59)
    • March 2012 (61)
    • February 2012 (54)
    • January 2012 (58)
    • December 2011 (75)
    • November 2011 (70)
    • October 2011 (78)
    • September 2011 (62)
    • August 2011 (57)
    • July 2011 (75)
    • June 2011 (62)
    • May 2011 (68)
    • April 2011 (67)
    • March 2011 (87)
    • February 2011 (71)
    • January 2011 (56)
    • December 2010 (55)
    • November 2010 (47)
    • October 2010 (41)
    • September 2010 (41)
    • August 2010 (37)
    • July 2010 (58)
    • June 2010 (51)
    • May 2010 (36)
    • April 2010 (28)
    • March 2010 (17)
Avatars by Sterling Adventures

Copyright © 2019 ÇaFleureBon, All Rights Reserved | Privacy Policy