Niche Fragrance Review: slumberhouse Ore + Outsider Olfactive Art Draw

moon valley mtn joseph yoakum

Moon Valley Mountain by Joseph E. Yoakum

In a sea of fragrances which can all smell like variations on a theme it is when I experience something outside of that continuum that I really get excited.  Just a little over two years I discovered the Portland, OR perfume house called slumberhouse and the perfumer behind it Josh Lobb. From my first reviews I applauded his way of approaching perfume composition from a stance of an outsider. I spent some time after that first review acquiring all of the fragrances Mr. Lobb had made and now I eagerly await new releases. For 2013 Mr. Lobb has decided to revisit that past and he has been re-releasing earlier fragrances in extrait concentration. The latest fragrance to get this update is 2009’s Ore.

Ore was one of the first fragrances Mr. Lobb released back in 2009. Of all the updates this one shows the evolution of Mr. Lobb as a perfumer and also the evolution of the slumberhouse aesthetic. It is by far the biggest difference between the original and the extrait of the fragrances which have undergone this re-imagining.

ore original

If I was pressed I would’ve said the original Ore was my least favorite of Mr. Lobb’s earlier creations because it had all the subtlety of a right cross to the nose. An overpowering dry cocoa seemed to overwhelm every receptor in my brain. It took nearly an hour for me to realize there was anything else as it went through a slightly caramel aspect on top of an edgy green balsamic base. Coming to this after trying other things by Mr. Lobb made me exhibit some patience with it but it was really close to being unbearable. I recall wearing it on a hot day and even picking up a bit of a barnyard accord. I think this was Mr. Lobb working through the early development of how he wanted his perfumes to smell. There are some of the trademark slumberhouse beats around but it was more preview of what was to come.

ore extrait

With that as prologue when Mr. Lobb sent me a sample of the new Ore extrait I was very curious to see how he looked at his original as he went about reformulating it. Would I get the same rough cut or has time developed a new eye for an old friend? The answer is the latter as the extrait is an overall stronger composition in every meaning of that word.

The extrait of Ore opens with the same dry cocoa but this time it is toned down enough to let other things come out to play. There is a subtle touch of thyme which picks up the less sweet aspects of the cocoa and adds some of the green quality of the original early on without being as sharp. The transition seems more smoothed out with less of an abrupt shift happening as there was in the original. The mix of woods: oakwood, guaiac and peru resin turn Ore into a creamy balsamic mix coated in cocoa. Right here is where Mr. Lobb shows his improvement as perfumer; all of this is present in the original but it collides with each other like a pinball against a bumper making an unappealing thunk. In this new extrait the notes are well-balanced which allow for a more complete picture to be presented and that picture is something to behold. A bit of vanilla added in the late going turns all of this into a slight tobacco accord that lasts for a fleeting moment.

Ore extrait has nearly 24-hour longevity but its sillage is very close to the skin.

yoakum-193-lg

Mount Swan by Joseph E. Yoakum

With all the previous extraits it felt like Mr. Lobb just did a tiny bit of fine tuning from original to extrait. With Ore he tore down the original house and rebuilt with the same recycled materials and went from sledgehammer to scalpel. The extrait version of Ore is a complete example of why Mr. Lobb is one of our most exciting olfactory artists.

Disclosure: This review was based on samples provided by slumberhouse.

Thanks to Parfum1.com we have eight samples of Ore extrait to giveaway. This is a worldwide draw. To be eligible leave a comment naming your favorite slumberhouse fragrance (or one you want to try) or your favorite example of something which got better the second time around. Draw will end August 4, 2013.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

-Mark Behnke, Managing Editor

Editor's Note: The art I chose for this piece is from the artist Joseph E. Yoakum (1889-1972) who is one of the best of those labeled "outsider artists". His abstract landscapes seem an appropriate companion to these fragrances.

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58 comments

  • Chris Schaefer says:

    I have never experienced slumberhouse but am truly fascinated by the review.

    As a perfumer I find that I may have created something in the past, but find that as my skills are honed; I want to revisit my raw materials and my initial focus and make important improvements.

  • I really like Jeke, though I haven’t tried the new extrait version. I definitely would love to explore the Slumberhouse line a little more.

  • I absolutely live Jeke! Although from the sounds of this, Ore extrait would be right up my alley.

  • I can’t speak about any of the slumberhouse fragrances but would love the opportunity to win a sample. From the viewpoint of cooking, many recipes that I like and use over and over again may go through a rebirth. By the addition of just a few ingredients, something good can become extraordinary. Case in point: my sweet potato dal was good but when I added Zante currants, coconut cream and a scoshe of habañero chili powder it was amazing.

  • I have never tried any of the slumberhouse line. I would like to try this and the Pear and Olive because it has gotten such rave reviews.

  • Never tried slumberhouse, but I too have heard of the Pear and Olive, sounds intriguing!

  • I’ve had their sampler set for a few weeks now and although I enjoy every one in different ways, I’ve been reaching for Flou the most!

  • Victoria Casey says:

    I adore Norne. It is definitely my favorite of the line though I liked them all with the exception of Pear & Olive.

  • My favorite is Norne, but I find it tough to wear in Phoenix. Usually only a few days out of the year are appropriate for such a heavy scent, but I still love it.

    This new Ore looks interesting, which is a good thing because I did not like the previous incarnation at all.

  • I haven really wanting to try out the olive+pear scent from slumber house.

    Hope to win this one .

    Thanks USA

  • I love the old Pear and Olive perfume (no idea how different the current extrait is). Would love to see how the new ore extrait stacks up against the previous iteration.

    Thanks.

  • I love and cherrish my Norne and would like very much to try the new Ore
    thanks for the draw

  • Marcopietro says:

    I’ve never tried Slumberhouse scents, but I think I’d like to sniff Norne.
    Thanks

  • Never tried any of the Slumberhouse’s offerings, but I would be very glad to test Pear & Olive. Thanks for the giveaway!

  • This is a perfume house that I have not sampled, although have been hearing about Pear and Olive. It’s great that Josh Lobb is not afraid to tweak his creations, I would love to try Ore.

  • I’ve tried a few but none were to my liking, I’d like to try Norne next.
    For me Aventus didn’t click until I’d tried it a few times.
    ty

  • The only Slumberhouse I’ve sniffed so far is Rume, but I’d really love to try Pear + Olive! Thanks for the draw.

  • The whole slumber house line excites me but I haven’t trued anything yet. I am very curious about Pear and Olive. Thanks for the draw!

  • I sampled Pear & Olive, and liked it very much! i would enjoy trying something new from slumberhouse…thanks!

  • Thank you very much for the draw, I would be interested in experiencing both “Norne” and “Pear and Olive”.

  • I have never tried slumberhouse. This review was intriguing, to say the least. I am now clamoring at the bit to try some! Ore, Jeke, and Sova all contain notes that I’d be happy with being overpowered by! Thanks for another great draw!

  • I have never tried Slumberhouse, but reviews of Norne make it sound like it would be my favorite,

  • The only slumberhouse I’ve tried is Pear & Olive on CaFleurebon’s recommendation, of which I promptly acquired a decant and put on the top of my bottles to buy list. I want to try everything now. Thanks for the draw.

  • leathermountain says:

    I’ve never tried any but heard great things about the line, especially Norne. Please enter me. Thanks!

  • I have not tried any Slumber house fragrances, but have certainly read lots about pear & olive and jeke. I’m putting them on my “must sample” list. Thanks!

  • Pear and Olive. I wasn’t sure what to expect before the first sniff, but it is a lovely scent, the pairing of the fruit and bitterness from the olive are really great. Thanks for the draw!

  • soupersusan says:

    I’d love to go sniffing through Slumberhouse starting with a sample of Ore. Of their other scents, Norne and Grev really catch my interest — especially since other commenters speak so highly or Norne.

  • Thank you for the vivid review! I like the image of sledgehammer to scalpel a lot.

    Never tried slumberhouse, really want to try any of them especially Ore now, and Flou and Norne and Pear + Olive. That sample set beckons….

    Second time around… I just rewatched Before Sunrise and Before Sunset and then went to Before Midnight. Definitely improved from first to second, a lot. Third was great too

  • I have not yet smelled any Slumberhouse, bit I am very curious about Olive and Pear, it seems it’s very different from the others.

  • I’ve read so much about this house and it all sounds intriguing. I’d love to try Norne. The names alone are evocative as well as the line. Dreamlike, dark and mysterious. Thank you for the draw.

  • I would love to try Ore, and I have heard so much about Pear and Olive so that is a close second. Thank you for the draw!

  • Great outsider art choice, Mark! I’m very partial to Pear & Olive, but would love to try Ore…along with the remainder of the line!

  • sisterspecies says:

    Slumberhouse is truly fantastic, and the most fantastic scent I’ve tried yet is easily Norne. Many thanks for the draw!

  • My favorite that I’ve tried thus far is Sova, and I’ve always wanted to try Ore. Thanks for the draw!

  • I have never tried any of the Slumberhouse line. I would like to try this and the Pear and Olive because it has gotten such rave reviews.

  • The only one I’ve smelled has been Flou and it was beautiful. Definitely something I would buy in the future.

    Thanks for the draw. 🙂

  • My favorite slumberhouse perfume yet ( I haven’t smelled them all) is Pear and Olive. A true gem!

  • Pear & Olive is probably my fave…but I am also a big fan of both Baque and Sova and Grev (alas mine is all gone!)

    Thanks for the draw and great review (as always)

  • Slumberhouse novice I am and I’m ready to venture forth and be initiated. I have family in Portland (six years in) but have yet to visit. So this is a way of getting closer. Let’s do it Mark! Thanx for the draw!

  • Great write up. This house is easily one of my faves! Josh is a genius. That’s all there is to it.