The perfume that has become known over the decades as the reference fragrance for tuberose, Robert Piguet Fracas, is turning 65 this year.  Miraculously, in this age of gutting classics, it is much as it was when it was introduced. I have tried to appreciate this gigantic tuberose for at least 30 years, to no avail. How could I not be a devoted fan of Fracas? I have no problem wafting copious amounts of huge tuberose perfumes. My failure to appreciate Fracas has been a source of mild frustration for years. I want to like it. It seems like it would be perfect for me.

Aurelien Guichard

A while ago, my interest was piqued by a newcomer to the Piguet fold, Petit Fracas, created by talented perfumer Aurelien Guichard. Although not intended as a flanker, it was billed as a perfume to attract a younger generation that might prefer a lighter, fresher version of Fracas. Die-hard Fracas fans in the perfume community were skeptical. For someone like me, it sounded like a good stepping stone to start me on my Fracas-appreciation path. Being exclusive to Selfridges when it was released, I didn’t think I would get to try it anytime soon. Fortunately, it has become available in the US, and a sample serendipitously found its way to me.

Tuberose still plays a major part in Petit Fracas, make no mistake. It is, however, gently veiled with a juicy pear that makes its appearance after a brief tang of citrus. Pear, when utilized properly, can be a revelatory olfactory experience, and it is used expertly here to soften, sweeten, and temper the floral notes. The tuberose is creamy and lush, and the experience of wearing this perfume is one that implies an understated, yet tropical elegance; the flowing silk caftan worn while lounging in the white sands and blue seas world of the Seychelles. The drydown is gentle and softly musky, with depth added by the smidge of cocoa. I can see that Piguet aimed this scent at a market that is youthful but refined; the luxury here is relaxed without being staid or too minimalistic. This isn’t a perfume for super-minimalists who want to smell like fresh laundry, but it doesn’t have the wanton, big bloom of Fracas. It is very pretty, and unique enough to appeal to people who don’t want a cookie-cutter scent.

Dorothy Lamour

As much as I enjoyed my sampling of Petit Fracas, I had to try Fracas again to see if my nose has grown. This time, I appreciated a bold, spicy aspect that I have never smelled before. Fracas is not a silken caftan; it’s Dorothy Lamour in a sarong, her hair loose, her limbs long and lithe. Did I instantly fall in love with Fracas, clutching it to me like a long-lost paramour? Not quite, but I will wear it on occasion. When I want to feel elegantly tropical, I am much more likely to have Petit Fracas on hand.

Notes: Bergamot, mandarin, pear, jasmine, tuberose, gardenia, musk, sandalwood and cocoa

Petit Fracas is available at Selfridges, Bergdorf Goodman, and select Saks Fifth Avenue stores.

–Tama Blough, Senior Editor

Note: I was watching an episode of the TV show, “Castle”, and the main character said that he had a fondness for Fracas. I love that show and the character of Richard Castle, and I became more determined to explore Fracas again at that moment (yes I am a geek).