New Perfume Reviews: Olympic Orchids Sakura & African Orchid + The Ingenue and the Enchantress Draw

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Ellen Covey at the Taste TV SF Artisan Fragrance Salon in March 2014

Seattle-based perfumer Dr. Ellen Covey of Olympic Orchids Artisan Perfumes has unveiled two new fragrances, Sakura and African Orchid, for spring showcasing the two very distinct aspects of this season. Having a degree in chemosensory studies and an active botanist, her impetus to perfumery was a desire to recreate the diverse and delicate fragrances of these magical flowers into wearable perfume. (Click here to read Dr. Covey’s Profile in American Perfumery). Her  practical and artistic approach to perfumery and her use of 75-90% naturals, augmented obliquely with man-made materials “to add uniqueness”, render consistent quality and craftsmanship. These two perfumes are as different as night and day, yet both function equally well as versatile vernal choices.

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"Cherry Blossoms After Rain" by Rosemary

Before the spring buds split open a few things are needed: warmer longer days and plenty of rain, most importantly. As with other flowers in previous perfumes, Dr. Covey breathed new life into the petals of Japanese cherry trees. Sakura develops from a tender opening, under overcast skies and intermittent drizzle, to full sun-warmed floral embrace before exhaling its last musky breath, as it echoes petals falling gracefully through the air to rejoin the earth. The scent of cherry blossoms is uplifting and full of optimism, maintaining softness and sweetness. Sakura echoes its namesake, bidding my nose to return to my wrist like a nectar-starved honeybee making repeated trips to the same plant.

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Fan Shi Yong

 Sakura captures a cool humidity, wet wood and damp earth in its opening. Rain-soaked trees welcome the sun’s rays as bare limbs transform, becoming covered with new foliage before bursting forth in rich blooms, seemingly overnight. This unique opening is unlike anything I have experienced in a floral perfume. Just as this begins to fade, and without any citruses, Dr. Covey makes the sun appear to coax a veritable explosion of pollen-dusted fruit-tinged petals from lifeless branches. Sakura wafts playful whimsy through most of its lifespan, pausing occasionally to exhibit an almost Zen-like meditative quality. This unusual dichotomy is echoed in the denouement of mineral firmness and cottony muskiness clinging to skin, magnificently reflecting the cooler floral beginning of this season, before warming with promises of longer days and hint of temptation from sweet fruits to come. Sillage: average. Longevity: good.

Notes: Airy notes, cherry blossoms and light musk.

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Hawk moth (proboscis visible) and angraecum orchid, photo by bernabu

Orchids are one of the most erotic of flowers. . African Orchid, the newest in her line of orchid-inspired scents, celebrates two varieties that grow in Eastern Africa, giving forth their intoxicating essence only after night falls. The Angraecum and Aerangis genii are spotlighted here, and are unusual as the nectar pit is so deeply hidden that only the hawk moth has a proboscis long enough to harvest its rich sweetness and is solely responsible for their pollination. Though this flower is white, it’s not your usual white floral. African Orchid fuses provocative sexuality with a touch of tenderness enhanced by a light fruity timbre and hints of spice; this perfume is a perfect choice for spring into summer evenings.

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"Purple Orchid" by Drazenka Kimpel

Beginning with an orchid core, reinforced with creamy jasmine grandiflorum and ylang-ylang blending silkiness of petal with naughtiness of aroma, African Orchid carries the warmth of day into dark of night.  The fusion of passion fruit, sweetly juicy yet tartly tropical, with a hand-crafted accord radiates a tantalizing ambrosia-like aroma from within, wrapped ever so gently with smoky birch and spiced with the bite of clove. The base is softly oriental. A restrained blend of musk settles over sandalwood, adding strength and stability to the balmy aura lent by Madagascar vanilla beans. Ellen Covey has captured this nocturnal bloom in all its glory, an exotic mélange of notes that seriously seduces. Sillage: good. Longevity: very good.

Notes: Orchid, jasmine grandiflorum, ylang-ylang, nectar accord, birch bark, cloves, passion fruit, woody musk, New Caledonian sandalwood & Madagascar vanilla.

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Dr. Covey continues to earn my respect as an artisan perfumer, and a fellow fragrance aficionado. Both perfumes are most welcome, after the “winter that wouldn’t leave”, warming the heart while delighting the nose. I wore both scents, multiple times, over the last week when high temperatures in the northeastern US ranged from 40°- 80° F (4°- 26° C). Both performed well no matter the weather and can easily be worn by both men and women.

Disclosure: Reviews based on samples sent to me by Olympic Orchids Artisan Perfumes.

John Reasinger, Senior Editor and Natural Perfume Editor

Author’s note: Both perfumes will launch May 4 at the second annual Taste Tv Artisan Fragrance Salon in Seattle and are available as pre-orders on the Olympic Orchids website. Just select the desired size, add to cart.  Orders made prior to launch date will begin shipping the week of May 5, 2014. Both scents are available in sizes ranging from 5 to 30 ml. Sakura is an EDP and African Orchid is perfume concentration. New streamlined bottle pictures are not yet available, but will look similar to to the photos below.

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Through the eternal kindness of Olympic Orchids, we have one 30 ml bottle of each perfume to give away to two readers in the US. To be eligible, please leave a comment stating you’re a US resident, your favorite Olympic Orchids fragrance (or one you’ve been longing to try) and your choice of either Sakura or African Orchid perfume, should you be one of the winners. Draw closes April 30th, 2014.

We announce the winners only on site and our Facebook page, so like CaFleureBon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will just be spilled perfume.

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49 comments

  • Kim Morgan says:

    My parents owned hundreds of orchids, even having slathouses and greenhouses for them. As a child, the smell of orchids was a wonderfully beautiful scent, and one not everyone knew. For that reason, it’s close to my heart. African Orchid would be my choice.

    US resident.

  • Everything from Olympic Orchids is well worth sampling; even if it’s not for me, the scents are never dull. Ballet Rouges is my favorite so far. Both of these new ones sound lovely too, and I would choose African Orchid because of it’s sultry description. Thanks for the reviews and draw.

  • I am a fan of Ellen and her work! My favorite thus far is still Siam Proun which was a CaFleureBon best of in 2011. I also am a fan of DEV 2. I look forward to trying both of these new fragrances. I would love African Orchid who wouldn’t Sexuality and Tenderness balanced perfectly with some spice. Perfect… I am in the US

  • My favorite is Salamanca a dry leather one, beautiful and so different. I think I also would love the African Orchid, its sounds wonderful. I am in the US.

  • I’ve not had a chance to try any of hers but they sound lovely. I’d love to try Sakura, a Zen-like meditative quality is just what I need right now. I’m in the US.

  • Thank you for this great draw! I am a US resident and my favorite Olympic Orchids perfume is Ballets Rouges. I would love to win African Orchid, it sounds lovely.

  • I am in Florida and would love to try either of these fragrances. Cherry blossom and orchid are two of my favorite notes

  • Elizabeth T. says:

    Thank you for the draw! I am in the US and have only tried Elektra from Ellen… it had such personality, and I would really love to try African Orchid. Thanks again.

  • I forgot to say how much I love the Art! Sloth is beautiful! So fitting for the perfume I’m sure. Fantastique.

  • Golden Cattleya’s honey cheers me up any day 🙂
    I live in the US and would like to try Sakura.
    Thanks for the draw!

  • helicalgnome says:

    I have not tried any Olympic Orchids perfume yet but I have read a lot about Blackbird and I think that’s the one I have been wanting to try.
    I guess my choice would be African Orchid. I am not sure I know how an orchid smells really so that sounds delightful. Something new that smells like ambrosia? Yes!
    I live in the US. Thanks for the draw

  • rivercitylizzy says:

    I am new to Olympic Orchids but Sakura sounds truly unique, especially for my modest collection of scents, so I would love to try that. I am in the US. Thank you for the draw!

  • I love Ellen’s work.My favorite is Ballets Rouges.I would love to win African Orchid.I’m in the US.Thanks for the draw!

  • I’ve always wanted to try Ellen’s creations. I’ve been especially curious to sample Siam Proun for quite some time!

    And yes, I am in the US. (Chicago, City of the Big Shoulderrs!)

  • I forgot to note that I would choose African Orchid if I should be one of the winners!

  • My favorite Olympic Orchids perfume is Seattle Chocolate. I have a long list of other ones I would love to try, too! I would choose Sakura if I won the draw, and I am in the US.

  • Little Stars is a favorite but all the orchid scents are great really. I’d love either of these new ones but I’d pick African Orchid if I could. I’m in the US. Thanks for the draw!

  • I’m in the US and would have a hard time picking a favorite Olympic Orchids perfume. I really really enjoy Golden Cattleya, Osafume, and Red Cattleya. These both sound fantastic and are both going on my ‘to try’ list, but I would ask for African Orchid, if I had to choose.

  • Valentine girl says:

    I am dying to try “Lil” because of the kaffir lime notes (I have a real tree and always wondered how it would smell in perfume); but Olympic Rainforest and Dev #3: The Inevitable are also calling out to me. I love the whole orchid scent concept and I would select the African Orchid perfume as my choice, if I should be so lucky! I have a Maxillaria tenuifolia orchid in my kitchen and when it blooms, the flowers really do have a coconut-like smell…always reminds me of Hawaiian Tropic suntan oil. My thanks to Ellen for her generous contributions & to Cafleurebon for the opportunity to win. USA resident.

  • My favorite OO scent is Seattle Chocolate. I am in the US and would love to try African Orchid.

  • Valentine girl says:

    Just a side note, as I could be way off base on this…but I was enjoying the artwork so much, it prompted my curiosity to see more works by the artist and I think the “sloth” picture might actually be “Purple Orchid” by Drazenka Kimpel…which makes it even more aptly titled for going with the post! Thanks again.

  • I’m so eager to try African Orchid! Sakura sounds lovely as well, but I’m a big fan of the sultry fragrances. Olypic Orchids Javanica has a sultry quality that I love, although actually I think my favorite of Dr. Covey’s scents that I’ve tried is Golden Cattleya. It’s so euphoric; it makes me happy just to sniff the bottle. I’m really looking forward to the two new fragrances!

  • My favorite OO is A tie between Osafume and Ballets Rouges. I live in the US and would prefer Sakura. Thanks

  • I first heard of Olympic Orchid here when you did the California Chocolate draw last year and that is the one I will like to try from the line for sure but I haven’t tried any this far.
    I think African Orchid sounds perfect to me since I want to welcome this summer with some sensual flower to wash away this winter.
    Thanks! I reside in the US.

  • wefadetogray says:

    I haven’t tried Olympic Orchids perfumes yet but from the line Olympic Amber, Kiphi, and Golden Catleya sound delightful. I haven’t been able to let go of the winter in scent terms. I think Sakura could be the opening of spring for me. I love the idea of cool humidity and damp earth!
    Thanks for this generous draw. I live in the US.

  • My favorite Olympic Orchids scent is Blackbird.
    I would like the Sakura 🙂 USA and thanks.

  • African Orchid would be my choice, both for this drawing and from the entire line, because I love sultry florals. Thanks! I’m in the US.

  • leathermountain says:

    I’m a US resident. My favorite Olympic Orchids fragrance (at the moment) is Arizona. Should I be the winner, I choose Sakura. Thank you!

  • These both sound good but I would love to try Sakura for it’s “pollen dusted petal” scent. I haven’t tried any from this line, but I have heard a lot about her new Blackbird scent and have wanted to order a sample. I am in the US

  • I live in the USA. I would like to try all of the Olympic Orchid scents. Of these two I would like Sakura. Thank you!

  • I’m a US resident, and my favorite of the few Olympic Orchids scents I’ve tried is Cafe V. I’d choose African Orchid, although Sakura sounds lovely also.

  • Fazal Cheema says:

    my favorite Olympic Orchids fragrance is Blackbird..I am interested in Sakura because of fascination with Japan and hope it is rich cherry blossom interpretation unlike other llight interpretations.. I am in the US

  • My favorite Olympic Orchids scents include Red Cattleya and Dev #2. I’d love to win Sakura and I live in the U.S. Thanks!

  • I have never tried any of Dr. Covey, but I have been following her fragrance blog for a while now. I love what she does and her price points and small sizes are most appealing to fragrance aficionados like myself. I love the idea of being able to purchase quality scents without breaking the bank. The Olympics Orchids scent I am dying to try is Ballers Rouges. I have heard such great things about it. As far as the new launch go, I want to win African Orchid. I’m in the US and thanks for the draw.

    Congrats on the new launch Dr Covey. I wish you much success with your two new perfumes and I hope to try them very soon!

  • I’m a U.S. resident and love Ellen’s creations! My favorite is Blackbird (and also adore Midsummer’s.., Ballet Rouge, Dev 1…), but would feel very lucky to try African Orchid! Thanks for the draw!

  • My favorite of the scents that I have sniffed so far is Golden Cattleya.
    I would love to try Sakura. Thank you for the drawing.

  • Cynthia Richardson says:

    I am a US resident. I’ve been longing to try Olympic Orchids Arizona fragrance because i would like to see if it truly captures the pine forests and clearings of the Arizona high country on a sun-warmed summer day. One of my favorite scent memories is of the ponderosa pine, juniper, sagebrush, chaparral and the high desert wildflowers of my beautiful northern Arizona Should I be one of the winners, I would choose the Sakura perfume.

  • I would love to have a chance to try these fragrances. I’ve been curious about OO for some time. I’d choose Sakura as it sounds so evocative! Thank you!

  • These both sound amazing! African Orchid must be positively intoxicating though, and I’d love to find out for myself. Of the Olympic Orchids that I have tried, Arizona really stood out to me. I’m in the U.S.

  • Have not tried anything from them yet but blackbird sounds good since I like berries in a perfume. I would love to get my hands on African orchid, I have noticed I love orchids in my fragrances whether it be tom ford black orchid or Tokyo milk tainted love.
    I’m in USA thanks

  • I haven’t tried anything from OO yet — I keep reminding myself to just go ahead and order the sample set! Little Star and the other orchid scents sound very appealing, and I’d choose African Orchid if I won. I’m in the US; thanks for the draw.

  • rosepotpie says:

    My favorite O.O. scent is Dev 2, but I’d love to try the Sakura! And yes, I live in the US 🙂

  • Thank you for this draw! Today my favorite Olympic Orchids scent is Blackbird. I would chose Sakura. I live in the US.