May 8, 2016
Eyeless in Col Alto 1994 Sally Mann
"I like to make people a little uncomfortable. It encourages them to examine who they are and why they think the way they do".-Sally Mann
Brooke Patterson of Principal Parfum
When I read Perfumer Brooke Patterson’s profile in CaFleureBon’s Profiles in American Perfumery series, I was immediately struck by the idea of someone being daring enough to create a line of perfume to express trauma and nightmares. I wasn’t entirely sure it could be done well, but it was certainly a unique approach in an industry with increasingly purple prose and over- the- top ad copy for end-products that amount to little more than infinitesimal variations on laundry musk or noxious woods, depending on the focus group. And trauma and nightmares would no doubt be a welcome respite from oud and pink pepper.
Ms. Patterson formed Principal Parfum and released four fragrances on February 14th, 2016: No 1 THE CHILD BEFORE THE PROGRAMMING. NO 2 THE ABANDONMENT 1988 NO 3 TAKEN HOME, FOREST, KEPLAR 68B,ONE OF THEM, No-4 REBIRTH FULL CIRCLE 2056 : Each fragrance is built and named around a theme and each has its own card, with pictures and a couplet of poetry in keeping with its theme, as well as a list of notes. Pictures of Ms. Patterson wounded and bloodied are on the front of three of them. As an introduction to the expression of trauma and nightmares, it’s extremely effective and really sets a tone. All four fragrances are interesting, but my favorite was No 1 THE CHILD BEFORE THE PROGRAMMING.
Sally Mann – Immediate Family, 1992
The notes listed for No1 are tuberose, nagarmotha, amber, green tea, musk, bergamot, patchouli, vanilla, jasmine, and one tear drop, so of course I get something fruity. It isn’t the bergamot, though I suppose it could be a combination of green tea and bergamot; what it reminds me of is the cherry flavoring used in some children’s medicines. (I’m probably being influenced by the child reference in the title) Nagarmotha adds a soft woody note, as does the patchouli. This is how I prefer my woods; as a note, rather than an entire dissertation. Jasmine adds a bit of brightness and vanilla contributes some sweetness, but the fragrance is beautifully blended and nothing jumps out too strongly. The lovely fruit and woods last several hours, eventually fading into a soft skin scent that I could still smell the next morning.
Anna and Virginia Sally Mann 1991
There is nothing traumatic or nightmarish about No1, but I think it works perfectly as a representation of a childhood as yet free of trauma. And most importantly, it smells great! Ms. Patterson seeks to create not just perfumes, but olfactory experiences, and she has done just that.
DISCLOSURE: I based my review on a discovery set sent to me by Principal Parfum.
Tammy Schuster, Sr. Contributor
Sally Mann, Night-blooming Cereus, 1988
Art Direction: Michelyn Camen. I chose the controversial photos of the Artist Sally Mann who photographed her three children–Emmett, Jessie, and Virginia–every summer from their infancy in the mid-1980s until they reached puberty in the 1990s. These images were often disturbing depictions of cuts, bruises, nudity as well as the simple innocence of being a child.
Thanks to Brooke we have a Worldwide Draw for a registered reader (you must do this..or your entry is not valid) for Principal Parfum’s Flight set of four 1 dram bottles of each of her perfumes: NO 1 – THE CHILD BEFORE THE PROGRAMMING, NO 2 – ABANDONMENT 1988,NO 3 – TAKEN HOME, FOREST, KEPLAR 68B, ONE OF THEM, and NO 4 – REBIRTH FULL CIRCLE 2056
or a bottle NO 1 – THE CHILD BEFORE THE PROGRAMMING,
To be eligible please leave a comment with what you found intriguing about Tammy’s review,Brooke's approach to her perfuemry, where you live and if you would choose the Flight set of the bottle of No .1. Draw closes 5/11/2016
We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume