Dannielle Sergent of Cognoscenti

Cognoscenti is a brand “…for those who know.” Dannielle Sergent is definitely in the know, having now released five perfumes under her beautifully packaged label.  No. 17 Civet Chypre is no exception, an example of the perfectly formed chypre (a classic combination of oakmoss, labdanum and bergamot) enfolding both floral and slight tobacco notes.  To her credit Dannielle has found a spectacular ethical version of civet from Firmenich and it is this cruelty-free touchstone upon which No. 17 is built. Opening with all the greenery and subdued citrus a chypre would call for, a green Italian bergamot fruit nestled among Tunisian neroli flowers produces an acreage of oakmoss absolute within which the elusive civet hides.

Tilda Swinton  Tim Walker Photography

Cognoscenti has been purposely created to be unisex and despite neroli, ylang ylang and Anatolian rose quickly defining the borders of this oakmoss territory, the florals are refined, tamed and ultimately rendered into floral filigree by the amber, musk and certainly civet which is working it's magic upon familiar notes before we can even suss out it's resting place.

Safari  Tim Walker Photography

A passenger in this olfactory safari, I notice the closer we get to the heart of the jus, the closer I feel to this wild animal somewhere within the slowly unfolding chypre; neroli taking bergamot's place as leader of the pack, the rose encouraged and bolstered by the ylang. A golden hue starts to form within the green air. We are getting closer to the game. Or is it we who are game?

This realization of role reversal comes when during dry-down, this 'golden' amber/musk has captured the floral and moss, forming its den- it's sensually scented markings of home. We have the unique and honored role of house guest of the civet.

Floral Figures Tim Walker Photography

The civet note is not the centerpiece of the composition rather it is the linchpin which brings everything else to center. No. 17 is revealing a definite musk, but not one of intense animalic nature. Recalling perhaps a resting place among the moss and petals in the garden of Madame Pompadour, the Amber accord is heightened into a liquid gold, neither gourmand, leather nor fossilized.

Coca Rocha Tim Walker Photograhy

Dry down is composed of this liquid gold accord- amber and musk- with crushed petals floating on it's serene surface. To bring your nose to  your wrist, is to dive beneath the neroli and rose, into chypre and civet infused waters with one last breath of mossen air.  This enticing aroma will last well into tomorrow.

Photo: Dannielle Sergent

Perhaps it is the natural tendency of civet to hold back the fleeting nature of essential oils, or perhaps it is Dannielle's background as architect and  painter with a keen ability to blend the colors of her palette but normally fleeting notes are extended, elongated and extended almost by magic. Citrus notes which should, by now, be a fragrant memory are still present in the dry down. No. 17 Civet Chypre is for those who know that a great Chypre is hard to come by these days.

Notes: Neroli, Bergamot, ylang-ylang,  Rose, Civet, oakmoss, amber, musk

Disclosure: I received my sample for promotional consideration

Editor’s Note: Dannielle Sergent was named a ÇaFleureBon Rising Star of 2012 and has won numerous awards at various TASTE TV Artisan Fragrance Salons. Art Direction: Michelyn

–Einsof, West Coast Contributor

Thanks to Dannielle Sergent of Cognoscenti we have a 50 ml bottle of No 17 Civet Chypre for a US reader and a 5 ml sprayer for our international readers. To be eligible please leave a comment with why you would want to try No 17, if you enjoy chypres and where you live. Draw ends November 11, 2014.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.