Stephane Humbert Lucas

There are some perfumers working in the last couple of years who I think fly below the radar of most who love perfume. High on the list of undetectable but worthy of more attention is Stephane Humbert Lucas. Until this year you could find his work as in-house perfumer for Nez a Nez and SoOud. Two of the perfumes he signed for Nez a Naz, Hiroshima mon Amour and Immortelle Marilyn are among my very favorite perfumes of the last couple years. In my review of Hiroshima mon Amour I compared M. Lucas’ style of perfume to “art house movies”. The concept is these are not perfume for the masses but rather for those with similar tastes and a willingness to work with your fragrance and give it some attention. Very few current perfumers or perfume reward that kind of individual scrutiny but the best of M. Lucas’ works demand it and I have been greatly rewarded for the effort.

In Esxence earlier this year M. Lucas debuted his own signature line, Stephane Humbert Lucas 777. As is often the case at the large expos the things I encounter on the last day are not as fully experienced as the things I try earlier. Such was the case when M. Lucas took me through the fragrances in the line. After trying them on a strip I gave over the back of my hand to the one I liked best Khol de Bahrein. For the entire trip home to the US, that day, Khol de Bahrein was a fantastic passenger who kept me delighted and wanting more. Sadly upon my return M. Lucas informed me it would be a few months before it was on sale. Finally in the early fall it arrived at my doorstep. Now after having worn it quite a bit I know it to be one of the best perfumes of this year and the best perfume of M. Lucas’ career, so far.

The name Khol de Bahrein refers to the dark eye makeup often seen in the Middle East and North Africa. Elizabeth Taylor sported kohl rimmed eyes for her portrayal of Cleopatra. Also they are often the only part of a Muslim woman you can see when she is out and about. The darkness around the eyes causing them to feel like they almost float within the hijab. M. Lucas has created a fragrance framed in darkness with the depth of a human eye in the middle. Khol de Bahrein is as mesmerizing as a hypnotist’s stare; you will find yourself lost in its spell.

Elizabeth Taylor as Cleopatra

The metaphorical eyes of Khol de Bahrein are as lavender as Liz Taylor’s were. The opening uses violet at the core but is surrounded with a resinous frame of dark incense. The one thing I appreciate about all of the Stephane Humbert Lucas 777 fragrances is there is no gentle step down to intensity. No flare of citrus or bergamot; instead it as bracing as stepping into a cold shower, it catches your attention. I love violet and the interplay of resins and violet are wonderfully woven. Then the purple of the iris deepened by the note of orris. Lush and opulent it is made buoyant with the addition of a creamy sandalwood and briny ambergris. This really feels like the real stuff on the ambergris, no ambrox here. The final touch of blackness comes from amber, balasamic notes, and musk. There is a feel of humanity in the last accord. The eyes may be all you see but they are worth getting lost within.

Khol de Bahrein has ridiculous almost 24-hour longevity and above average sillage. The sillage is surprising for something at extrait strength.

I hope this piques the interest of those of you who have never heard of M. Lucas. If you’re looking for a new perfumer to explore I can recommend nobody any higher. As one who has come to enjoy his style let me reiterate; Khol de Bahrein is the best perfume of M. Lucas’ career and one of the best new perfumes of 2013.

Disclosure: This review was based on a bottle I purchased.

–Mark Behnke, Managing Editor