Christi Meshell and the Achtung! Collection
Achtung by Matriarch is a line of perfumes made in collaboration with visual artist Richard Barchenger, who creates mandalas out of pen and ink in the ancient “Geometric Mysticism” style. It is an intriguing line, and I have selected three to go into depth about Midnight, SexMagic, and Devotion. These three are some of the boldest scents in the line, the ones that grabbed me by the throat demanding more skin time. Christi Meshell, the nose of House of Matriarch, enjoys imparting her fragrances with a map to a spiritual journey, and wearing her compositions is definitely more than a purely olfactory experience.
After a vividly floral opening, Midnight has a particular feel to it of vague rot, like the layer of hay under the fresh stuff (as opposed to rotten vase water, which can be repellant). I actually like smells that are a bit barnyard, which is a signature of real oud. Midnight has a lot of oud, combined with florals and other notes that make it more complex. There is a trace of menthol that emerges, like it's changing its mind about smelling like decay. Once that aroma diminishes, you are left with a soft smell of grassy, floral hay, which lingers and wafts for quite a while. I realize my description of this perfume makes it sound unappealing but I promise it is the opposite. It's not what I would call "pretty", but I felt great wearing it, a bit goddessy. I felt in touch with a natural self, free of artifice.
Notes: Intense Oud, Ambrette, narcissus, corn flower, exotic jasmines, Madagascan coffee flower, tuberose, sweet clover.
Composed of a plethora of fragrant wood essences, SexMagic swirls around your body, filling your head with sensuous thoughts. It is the smell of skin that has been immersed in sun, forest, smoke, and sex. If I attended the Burning Man festival, I would take this along, and recline in the sun until the perfume rose from my skin like a mirage. My hair and crevices full of dusty earth, my body sun-soaked until it stings, I am a human bonfire. As Ms. Meshell predicted, her perfume took me someplace with intensely sensual imagery. I have a hard time with wood-heavy scents; they can turn too armpitty on my skin and make me smell like an overworked bike messenger. The woods of SexMagic are sweet and clean, but sexy as all get-out. The far drydown is soft and beautiful: the warm white ash after the burn.
Notes: Gandhi Root, Buddha wood, damiana, evergreens, amber, oud, leather, Mysore sandal, pinewood, moss, violets, cedar blend, choyas
Of all the perfumes in the Achtung line, the one that sings the loudest to me is Devotion. The first time I tried a dab, it became a smoky black licorice, reminding me of my childhood trips with my father to the old General Store at Knott’s Berry Farm, when it was still a homey and quaint place to go. There was an amazing selection of licorice, and I loved getting a black pipe and pretending to smoke it as the licorice became gummy and soft from being in my mouth. This time, I applied more, and went right to my core Dad place: the scent of a freshly-opened cigar box. Then, after a small frisson of melancholy, the licorice appeared again, although mixed with more smoke, erasing the stab of loss and filling the small wound with the joy of having known the man that gave me both of those memories. Devotion is a myrrh perfume, which is one of my favorite notes. It can make me feel at once cozy, uplifted, spiritual and grounded. I can tell that this perfume has the potential to take me on many different journeys.
Notes: Myrrh, incense, leather, oud, amber, ambrette, African gaia, teas, vintage French opoponax, exotic spices, Hawaiian vanilla.
Other scents in the Achtung line are: Unveiled, a lovely and slightly animalic citrus floral; Gateways, a rich gourmand; Password, with subtle floral and grassy notes, Epiphany, with a relaxing herbal vibe, and Immortal, chock full of greenery. They are all worth experiencing, and we have two sample packs to give away, (valued at $62) thanks to Ms. Meshell (who gave me my samples). One is for US readers and one is for our international readers. Please leave a comment about which of these appeals to you and where you live. Draw ends August 25, 2013
Ms. Meshell is also continuing her free shipping offer for CaFleureBon readers anywhere in the world with the code CFB on any full size Achtung Perfume and the sample set, which includes 1ml of each perfume.
All art by Richard Barchengar
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