A couple of weeks ago I was poking around downtown looking for something new to try and the latest summer releases from Thierry Mugler, Angel Aqua Chic and Alien Aqua Chic, caught my eye. I gave each a cursory whiff on paper and asked for samples to bring home. I knew right away that these would be worth writing about, and once I was given the press materials for the scents, I understood why they had impressed me.

Many natural perfumers who create their own essences have been touting the use of hydrosols. A hydrosol is the water that is created during hydro-distillation, during which essential oils are captured.  The water that remains contains enough scent molecules to have a subtle fragrance of its own. Very few, if any, mainstream perfumers utilize hydrosols in their compositions. Thierry Mugler has created something special by adding fragrant hydrosols to the Aqua Chic versions of Angel and Alien.

Each scent has been formulated with a “fresh accord” to add airiness. As a person who tends to shy away from perfumes containing “fresh” notes, I was pleasantly surprised to find that it is a note that is truly airy, and not like a dryer sheet. From there, a portion of the normal dilution materials of alcohol and distilled water are replaced with fragrant hydrosols, which become 30% of the composition. The result is a pair of scents that are light and summery, with impressive longevity.

Angel Aqua Chic (also called Angel Light Eau de Toilette), created by Aurelian Guichard for Givaudan, is absolutely the most wearable version of Angel I have ever encountered. The sensuously aromatic patchouli and vanilla base of Angel is there, but as a mere skeletal wisp.  Angel needs those bones or it wouldn’t be Angel, but the addition of cornflower water, pink peppercorn, and Calabrian lemon essence creates a shimmering veil that wraps around your body and creates an aura of innocence and light. I wore this to work, on a day that I had to do some fairly heavy maintenance chores, and the fragrance quietly kept me company all day. The drydown is sensational, soft and gentle, with a bit of vanillic sweetness.

I have to confess that I have never been friends with Alien. When I smelled Alien Aqua Chic (or Alien Light Eau de Toilette) on paper, I wondered if this was finally the Alien for me.  Wearing it, I have to say, undoubtedly, yes. The hydrosol used in this composition, by Dominique Ropion for IFF, is ginger water.  The combination of this with the aforementioned “fresh accord”, with the floral amber heart that is Alien, creates a scent that is at once ethereal and heady. Tonic verbena and freesia accords add tang and a bit of extra spice to the ginger heart.  A refined taste of saltiness sits on the edges of the sillage, while the floral notes sit closer to the skin, and stay there. It is not quite as tenacious as Angel Aqua Chic, but it has decent longevity.

I am impressed by the continuing high caliber and thoughtfulness that Mugler puts into flankers, as well as their taste in perfumers. I recommend both of these to anyone, and especially anyone who has been skittish around the regular EDP versions of either Angel or Alien. These new scents are remarkable and I am hard-pressed to pick a favorite, although the Angel may just barely squeak ahead of the Alien. I would happily wear either one.

Thanks to the jaw-dropping generosity of Thierry Mugler, we have FIVE (5!!) bottles of EACH SCENT to give away.  That’s TEN BOTTLES of perfume, folks.  A round of applause, please! Let us know your history with Alien and Angel, or if you have ever tried or used hydrosols. Also let us know which scent you want to win. We will draw ten winners on April 14, 2012 via random.org.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilt perfume.

-Tama Blough, Senior Editor