Ben Gorham, the Founder and Creative Director of Byredo Parfums, envisioned his newest addition to the line as a true tribute to the Middle East, a part of the world he has visited frequently. He states “It’s a combination of places, food, and, most importantly, people.” I have never traveled to that part of the world, and might not in my lifetime, but if wearing Bullion takes me there, it’s a very fragrant place to visit. I tested Bullion on my skin during a very busy day of sniffing and visiting perfume counters, but it stood out in my mind as one to explore more fully. I procured a sample, and am giving it a full wearing right off the bat.
Pink pepper is a note that is so ubiquitous that I feel like I don’t really know its purpose, or what it really smells like. The opening of Bullion answers my question. It is a unique, bright, spice that has simultaneous lift and depth. Enough is used here that it has the opportunity to shine alone for a few moments, and it is very enjoyable. There is also a wonderful ripe plum note that adds some sweetness. Soon, though, the pepper and plum bow graciously and make way for a stunning middle section.
Leather, if not used in restraint, can completely dominate a perfume, but it is subtle in Bullion, and is a brooding companion for the sublime aromas of the magnolia and osmanthus, two of my favorite floral notes. Both of those flowers have odors that nearly transcend the idea of “floral”; they are both heady, earthy, fruity, and reminiscent of hazy, heated days. Combined with the subdued leather, I can see how one would think of a part of the world that we associate with desert heat and exotic peoples.
The middle drydown brings out the woods and musks for a purring animalic effect. My skin tends to bring a sweaty element out of some woods, but I don’t mind it unless it is really strong, which this is not. It is a purr, not a growl, and I find it alluring. Eventually, the fragrance settles down into a soft, warm drydown that is quite pretty. Longevity is quite good. I could see adding this to my collection; I quite like it.
Notes per Byredo:
Top: Pink pepper, black plum
Middle: Osmanthus, magnolia, leather accord
Base: Dark woods, sandalwood, sensual musks
Byredo Bullion will be available at Barney’s NY in the fall. My sample was graciously provided by the San Francisco Barney’s.
We have a draw for a sample, just leave a comment below. Do you have a favorite Byredo? We will draw one winner via random.org on August 3, 2012.
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–Tama Blough, Senior Editor