In nature and in the laboratory opposites attract: “…chemical bonds result from the electrical attraction between opposite charges-between positively charged nuclei and negatively charged electrons…” – McMurray, et al. – Fundamentals of General, Organic, and Biological Chemistry, 2010. Award-winning perfumer Ineke Rühland (her Idyllwild was a 3x CaFleureBon Best of 2017 Award Winner) created Chemical Bonding in 2006 and this perfume brings together two very different fragrant forces, resulting in a bracing, masculine scent with a feminine floral heart.
Ineke Chemical Bonding opens as a cocktail of startling, bright citrus oils. A heavy dose of black tea sharpens the effect of bergamot and lemon, adding a robust tannic edge to the composition. My first impression of Chemical Bonding is that of a larger than life masculine fragrance, bigger, bolder, simply more of everything than any notion of a conventional Italianate citrus would suggest. After about 30 minutes, nuances of blackberry add shades of dark, tart fruit to the explosion of citrus.
Photo of a peony by Gail
At the very moment I wrap my nose around the blackberry note, Chemical Bonding flips to the opposite. I am instantly charmed by the feminine floral heart – warm, dewy and almost sultry, a bouquet of flowers, dominated by fresh, wet peonies. I inhale and feel like I have buried my nose in one of those big double pink blooms that fill my garden in April, May and June. A hint of residual lemon keeps the flowers fresh for two hours before I detect traces of grassy, vegetal vetiver.
At about three hours, a transparent, green/golden amber warms and rounds out the composition, lingering and finally fading into a mist of powdery musk. I enjoy the split personality of Ineke Chemical Bonding for four hours on skin and five on clothing. With the exception of the initial burst of macho citrus, Chemical Bonding wafts a well-mannered and conservative sillage.
photo: irenetonnessen.net ©
Ineke Chemical Bonding is one of those perfumes that must be worn more than once. It is artfully composed and complex; to truly comprehend the nuances it takes more than a single exposure. I am attracted to both polarities of Chemical Bonding, to the initial masculinity of the citrus, as well as to the fluttering femininity of the heart, blooming with tender garden flowers. Chemical Bonding is the allure of opposites coming together. Notes: Citrus, tea, blackberry, peony, vetiver, amber and musk.
Disclaimer: Many thanks to Ineke Rühland for the lovely Deluxe Sample Collection, volume 6. My opinions are my own.
Gail Gross – Senior Editor
Art Direction: Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief
Ineke Chemical Bonding
Thanks to the generosity of Ineke Rühland we have one 75 ml bottle of Ineke Chemical Bonding available for one registered reader in the US. (Be sure to register or your comment will not count.) To be eligible, tell us where you live, what appeals to you about Gail’s review, and if you have a favorite perfume by Ineke. Draw closes 3/8/2108
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