“What do you think?  What do you feel?  What is the difference between the two?” – Marc-Antoine Cortichiatto

 Different perfumers find their inspiration in different ways.  For perfumer Marc-Antoine Cortichiatto, founder of the Parfums D’Empire line, inspiration takes its form from the vast sweep of human history.  Specifically, in the way that he marries his academic background in both his training at ISIPCA , and in analyzing raw plant essences (he worked towards a Ph.D. in analytic chemistry) to the fire and drive mankind has shown to possess them. In a 2012 interview with ÇaFleureBon Editor in Chief Michelyn Camen he states, "I love everything about raw materials- where they come from, their history; always coveted by man, regardless of the era. We fought, we sailed, we coveted these precious substances for their beauty, as a commodity, for their magical powers, their erotic properties and their power of seduction.  Each raw material we work on is about its history.”

And the result of his inspiration becomes rich, opulent scents commemorating the Ottoman Empire (Cuir Ottoman – an animalic leather), Alexander the Great (Iskander), and the Russian Tsars (Ambre Russe).   Going on an olfactory Bengal tiger hunt isn’t out of the question, either (Fougere Royale).   This is perfumery set to decadent Ben-Hur levels, in full Technicolor and Cinemascope, with raging armies invading foreign lands and the glittering wealth of emperors ruling the senses.

A Lady from Quing Dynasty LiFeng

But he’s also capable of crafting delicate and subtle fragrances as well.  Parfums D’Empire’s Osmanthus Interdite is a perfect example.  Fashioned as a tribute to the wisdom and mystery of the Chinese Empire and the Forbidden City, Osmanthus Interdite, is a scent for the quietest moments.  It is a soft floral that is lined in a sueded apricot osmanthus note that is both beguiling and comforting in the same instant.  The nod to China is also present in a calming green tea accord that grounds the scent as well as providing a dry, herbal counterpoint to the sweetness of the apricot.

Chinese Tea Ceremony painting Lxfhsfun

Osmanthus Interdite is custom-made for intimacy.  It’s not a scent for the clubs, or for power lunches.  It’s a scent you wear for yourself, and it’s built for creating a sense of serenity in the wearer.  The herbal strength of the  green tea note paired with the sweet, sueded apricot is what drives this scent, with jasmine and rose elevating the tea’s inherent floracyl and herbal qualities while softening the dry, tannic edge.   Musk keeps the fruity aspect of the osmanthus from becoming too cloying while enhancing the sense of skin on skin. The overall effect achieves a lush harmony between the notes, with each adding facets and depth without overtly dominating the composition.

Parfums d'Empire Osmanthus Interdite Perfume and  re -imaging of Sweet osmanthus, Chrysanthemum and Birds" by Lue Ji, Ming Dynasty. 

There are no lurid animalics or roaring lions here, and the crack of the chariot whip has been replaced by the bending of a willow branch.   The sillage is tuned very low, barely elevating off the surface of the skin, and the longevity is adequately suited for the style.  Osmanthus Interdite lasts for several hours, long enough to finish a pot of tea or to contemplate the infinite.  For a perfume house dedicated to recreating vast historical empires through scent, it is lovely to see this line can also offer a perfume that bears witness to our inner, most vulnerable territory as well.

Notes: Chinese tea, osmanthus, rose, jasmine, musk

–Steve Johnson, Contributor

Note: The Parfums D’Empire line of fragrances was repackaged in 100 ml bottle in 2014. Osmanthus Interdite was composed in 2007

Thanks to Fragrance & Art we have a generous sample for any reader in the world. Please leave a comment with what you enjoyed about Steve's review, if you have a favorite Parfums D'Empire perfume and where you live by November 24, 2014

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