Exclusive Interview with Mme Patricia de Nicolaï : “First Lady of Niche Perfumery” + Happy 25th Anniversary Parfums de Nicolaï Draw

Patricia_DeNicolaicafleurebon

Patricia de Nicolaï  has been an independent perfumer and founded her own brand in 1989 (Photo Credit: Madame de Nicolaï)

Over a decade ago,  I became interested in knowing about the Perfumers who create my most beloved fragrances. Who were they? When I met Master Perfumer Maurice Roucel in 2011 he told me that for much of his career perfumers who worked at large Flavor and Fragrance Companies called themselves “ghosts”. That has changed over the past couple of years as olfactive artists are increasingly in the spotlight.  As much as I enjoy learning about new perfumers, there are Artists who I have revered for many years. This is the first interview I have done in quite some time, (over a year) and it is with the “first lady of niche perfumery”…Madame Patricia de Nicolaï. She is one of the most famous perfumers in the world and has been a pioneer of independent niche perfumery for over 25 years (before there was such a term as “niche”). To me, Madame de  Nicolaï is to niche fragrance what Amelia Earhart represented to the field of Aviation. Mme de Nicolaï is also a member of the technical committee of the French Society of Perfumers and the President of the Osmotheque. 2014 is a special year. Parfums de Nicolaï is celebrating a 25th Anniversary. I believe that you will “fall in love” with Madame de Nicolaï as a person as well as a perfumer. It is an honour to share her wisdom, humility, candor and of course her love of fine fragrance with our readers.-Michelyn Camen, Editor in Chief

Michelyn Camen: Thank you Madame de Nicolaï  for taking time out of your busy schedule. We welcome you to CaFleureBon. Let’s start from the beginning. What was your first scent memory?

Patricia de Nicolai: Definitely the scent of the school inkwell.  It has indeed a very particular scent that I later found in perfumery like in the natural essence of white thyme or the cedar essential oil.

art_deco_perfume_bottle_guerlain_shalimar

Please, tell us a little bit about your childhood…

PdN: I lived within the Guerlain Parisian ‘Hôtel Particulier’ for the first 20 years of my life. We had – and we still have – a very big family and we all had our corner in this wonderful spot.I could tell loads of little stories about my childhood but if I had to take one moment, it would be when I was waken up every morning by the powerful and spellbinding Shalimar that my mother used to wear. I did not need an alarm clock in that time! The Shalimar scent was my morning wakeup call! And I loved it! My mother’s room was situated underneath mine and the scent came through my window which was always open, because sleeping with an opened window is in fact very healthy. You can trust my grandmother on that!

My mother loved Shalimar , it is true, but she really liked to be the first one to ‘test’ all the perfumes created by Jean-Paul Guerlain. She was the tender ‘guinea pig’ of her beloved cousin.

 guerlain family tree

“The Guerlain FamilyTree”- Genealogy

Growing up a Guerlain… was there a time you considered working for the family?

PdN: When I was young, I never really thought of being a perfumer…It was only when I studied chemistry that I realised I may be interested by this path. I therefore made several very interesting internships but never within the Guerlain business. As you know, my family has been living in the world of perfumes for decades. However it was not an obvious option for my family to believe that I could work as a perfumer. Remember that I began my career 30 years ago, in the 80’s and in those times, the Guerlain business was managed by my grandmother’s brother who believed that women in the family should not be working…However my uncle helped me to find my first real job as a perfumer and told me that I have to improve my skills and then ‘we’ll see’. This ‘we’ll see’ never happened and you know what occurred then.

Why work at Florasynth and Quest (Givaudan)? What did you learn there?

PdN: My current job as a perfumer. I learnt everything regarding raw materials and how to formulate and weigh them. I learnt how to use all the important perfumer’s combinations and I also learnt team work which is very precious in our profession. Finally, working alongside great perfumers allows me to obtain loads of ‘tips’ and ‘secrets’ that I can’t reveal of course! (Editor’s Note: Mme de Nicolaï worked on Tresor with Sophia Grosjman).

patricia de nicolai 1989 SFP prize for the Best International Perfumer

1988: Mme de Nicolaï was the first female perfumer to awarded the International Prize for Young Perfumers

When you composed Number One in 1988, you were awarded the International Prize for Young Perfumers by the French Society of Perfumers as the first female perfumer to be honoured with this award, did you realize at that young age you were making history?

PdN: I did not realise that I made history! When I received the prize, I was working at Quest (now Givaudan) and even if I was part of the teams which has created great perfumes, I did not myself create one of mine yet. Winning this prize, gave me a great visibility among the world of perfumers. Suddenly they realized that I was there and they became curious. Furthermore, I have to say that this was quite a great coincidence! Indeed, when I was awarded the prize, I was preparing to launch my brand. It is not because of the prize that I said to myself I had to do something. It was like a destiny sign, telling me that I was going on the right path.

When you started your Company in 1989, you were one of the first “niche” perfumeries. Now there are hundreds maybe thousands. What are your thoughts on so many on the market?

PdN: I think it’s a great thing. It proves that it is a dynamic and creative industry. However, it is very competitive and not everyone will succeed unfortunately.

guerlain vintage ad L'Heure Bleue 1912

Which Guerlain fragrance has the greatest influence on your own perfumery?

PdN: Unlike Jean-Paul Guerlain, I always loved L’Heure Bleue. However it is the entire Guerlain vision which has inspired me, even unconsciously. Like Guerlain, I like amber and vanilla notes. Like Guerlain, I really appreciate warm, opulent, chic and elegant scents and like Guerlain, I try to be very attentive regarding the selection of the best possible ingredients to create my perfumes.

jean-paul guerlain

Patricia de Nicolaï  is the great-granddaughter of Pierre Guerlain and niece of JeanPaul Guerlain (the last family member to run the House of Guerlain)

Why *didn’t* Jean-Paul Guerlain like L’Heure Bleue? That sounds like an interesting story.

PdN: Indeed, Jean-Paul Guerlain is not a real fan of L’Heure Bleue, created in 1912 by his grandfather Jacques Guerlain. After all, you don’t have to like ALL the perfumes created by the family. I know that unlike his grandfather, my uncle was always more attracted by floral than amber notes. This may explain why.

 Jean-Louis Michau , the husband of Patricia de Nicolai

Jean-Louis Michau of Parfums de Nicolaï

Why did you strike out on your own 25 years ago and what was the biggest obstacle?

PdN: The main obstacle was to be recognised. Even if I came from a great line of perfumers, nobody knew me and niche perfumery was very discreet. When my husband asked me to begin the NICOLAI project, we were of course very enthusiastic but we really did not know what was going to happen.  In fact, we were prepared to the eventuality of shutting down the business. However, I was very motivated. I left Quest because I was restrained by the practice of creating fragrances based on focus groups and marketing questions. I was very frustrated and I wanted to be free! Free to create whatever I wanted and free to organize my time as a mother of three and soon four. My husband Jean-Louis Michau helped me a lot. He was, and still is responsible for our NICOLAI  shops (7 in Paris, 1 in London) and our commercial and marketing business all over the world.

musc intense parfums de nicolai

What Parfum de Nicolai fragrance was the most challenging for you to create?

PdN: It’s always a challenge for me to create a fragrance. But if I had to choose one, I will say Musc Intense. The musk note is much used in our business, but mainly when creating oriental and animalic fragrances. For my ‘musk’, I tried a different path—one paved with flowers (Rose, violet and carnation), starting with a fruity note (pear). The rose essence has a delicious williamine (pear liquor) scent which  why I added fruity notes. Fortunately, it was a success. Musc Intense is indeed one of our bestsellers.

showroomosmothèque

Photo credit Patricia de Nicolaï  : The Osmothèque is at ISIPCA in Versailles

Over the past few years, there is a renewed interest in vintage perfumes. As the President of the Osmothèque what is the most important part of your role?  For our readers who are not familiar with the Osmotheque, a brief explanation, please.

PdN: I have been the President of the Osmothèque since 2008. It is a great honour for me to chair this great research institution tracing the history of perfumery. The Osmothèque has the objective to be the ‘mémoire’ of great perfumes and organizes several conferences on the subject. We hold the world’s largest scent archive with more than 3,000 perfumes from the past to present.  I am managing the day to day activities of the institution, supervise all the projects -like the publication of books and the organization of conferences. I also  represent the Osmothèque to the media.

jaques guerlain

Jaques Guerlain created Mouchoir de Monsieur (1904), Après L’Ondée (1906), L’Heure Bleue (1912), Mitsouko (1919), Vol de Nuit (1933), and  Shalimar (1925)

If you could go back in time and study with any perfumer who would it be and why?

PdN: With no hesitation Jacques Guerlain, one of my greatest ancestors, the one who really made the Guerlain name so famous and prestigious.

If you were not a perfumer you would be…

PdN: A music composer! Arrange notes, looking for harmonies, evoking emotion (this is not very far from my current job).

Who is your favourite musician and has a musical work inspired a perfume?

PdN: There are loads of classical musicians that I love. But I have to admit that I have a great passion for Beethoven. All his compositions take me out of this world, it is so fascinating! With Beethoven, it’s like a marathon: you always have to run to follow the music.

margaret thatcher

A perfume for Margaret Thatcher

If you could create a fragrance for a historical or fictional character who would it be and why?

PdN: Probably Margaret Thatcher. It would have been a great challenge! She was a very powerful and tough woman. I think I would have created a strong chypre for her, a bit like Odalisque I think.

Blogs, social media  and the Internet have made information about fragrance much more accessible to the average person. For many aficiandos, perfumery is known as the 8th Art (thanks to Octavian Coifan, who coined the term and wrote about perfume and beauty in 2005 ).  Do you think that Perfumery is an Art or a craft/skill? Is everyone who sells a perfume an Artist?

PdN: Internet is wonderful. Indeed, like anything else nowadays, it gives us accessibility and now anyone can find all the information he needs regarding perfumes. The multittude of webzines and blogs allover the world writing about fragrances and encouraging discussion is great.  Sometimes I check  blogs to see, for example the reactions of people who wear my perfumes. The majority of comments are very positive and encourage me to continue. So thank you to all the fragrance fans!

Is perfume an Art or a skill? Definitely an Art. Everyone who creates a perfume IS artist. However, you need to have some skills…Not everyone who creates a perfume is a great artist! But isn’t the case with all the arts?

eaux faiches colognes de nicolai
Les Eaux de Nicolais

Over the past several years, there is a renewed interest in Colognes and Eaux Du Toilettes, especially with high concentrations. Eau d’ete was created in 1997 and since then you have created quite a few including the enchanting Eau sOleil  that was released in 2013.  What is it about these lighter fragrances that fascinate you?

PdN:  Eaux de Toilettes  and citrus fragrances are very easy wear. Much loved during summertime, they seem more suitable  than powerful and often heavy ‘eau de parfums’. You really feel refreshed wearing citrus notes and they make us feel happy.

Patricia de nicolai in her lab

 Madame de Nicolaï in the lab

What drives your creative process?  For each perfumer it is always different; emotions, nature, the Arts or raw materials. Which are your muses?

PdN: Sometimes ingredients inspire me a lot, such as cedar or patchouli. I can also be inspired by perfumes created by other perfumers or simply by everyday smells. For instance, I love the smell – and the taste! – sugared almond. I love it so much that it inspired a perfume: Kiss Me Tender. Another example… a very lovely cigars box  filled with wonderful and quality cigars, gave me the idea to create Havane, one of my favourite home fragrances.

36_116758~_pierre-auguste-renoir_roses,-c-1885

Pierre Auguste Renoir “Roses”

Is there a raw material you are especially fond of working with?

PdN: I love the rose and especially the essence of rose. It smells like pear liquor and I really appreciate it. Unfortunately, rose essence is limited by regulations because of some “allergic” components. Also my interest in special raw material can vary. As far as I’m concerned, I had my ‘cedar’ and ‘patchouli’ phase for a long time. But my interest for the ‘Queen of the flowers’ has been continuous.

parfums de nicolai ouds

As we noted in our review of Rose Oud and Amber Oud, you did not jump on the oud trend early on.  What inspired you to finally create two oud fragrances?

PdN: I indeed took my time because I really wanted to analyse the oud notes first. Pure agarwood is very strong and animalic, maybe too much for me. I needed to think how I could use the strength of the agarwood notes in order to create a perfume which could fit my style and skills. Then I realized I could either create a rose combination or an amber combination, mixing vanilla and labdanum. The choice between those two ideas was one I did not want to make, and I therefore decided to create two of them-Rose and Amber Oud! Some say that I am ‘too late’ but I did not want to be trapped by trends. I am a free woman, free to create my own perfumes the moment I want to,  regardless of any marketing concepts

Chainederemplissage

At the Parfums de Nicolaï factory

The new bottles are striking. How did you select them?  Are you in the process of repositioning Parfums de Nicolaï?

PdN: It is a collective work between my husband Jean-Louis, our new communication and marketing team and finally me. The bottle is not enough, we indeed need to think about the label, the cover, the style…Even the size and the colour of the typeface are important to consider. Note that everything is made among the company.

home fragrances parfums de nicolai collection corporel

The Parfums de Nicolaï Home Fragrance Collection are a source of inspiration for the Parfums (Photo: Parfums de Nicolai)

I love scenting my home and personal space. You have an extensive line of home fragrance, unlike most Master Perfumers. Why?

PdN: I love creating home fragrances! The acceptance field for a home fragrance is far more open than a personal fragrance. With a home fragrance, you can be very original and allow yourself to be more creative. Furthermore, most of my home fragrances are also sources of inspiration to create body perfumes. It is the case for example with Crépuscule Vanille which gave me the idea to create Vanille Tonka. I have more than 25 home fragrances in my collection and I do want to create 25 more! Indeed, it is important to me to have home fragrances because once again, they help me to imagine my body perfumes.

The International Fragrance Association aka IFRA. Always a hot button.  How do you view their restrictions and guidelines as a perfumer? Reformualtions?  As the keeper of the vintage treasures of the past?

PdN: What can I say…On the one hand, IFRA allows perfumers to be more cautious in their work but on the other hand, the ‘no risk’ precaution is to me too much restrictive! Everything now must be ‘no risk’ and I do understand the point the view. However, a society taking no risk is a society that could one day disappear. Because of IFRA and its strong regulations, we, perfumers, must continuously check if our perfumes are still correct according to their standards and more and more often, we need to reformulate the perfumes. I think that first restrictions were justified in order to protect the eco-system, poaching and crulety to animals or forbid strong allergic ingredients, but now, in a time when science everyday discovers new molecules that ‘could’ be allergans; regulations tend to be very zealous. As far as I know, perfume never killed anyone!

perfumes in the osmotheque

 Vintage and Discontinued Perfumes at the Osmothèque

Therefore, because of regulations, some great perfumes could never be sold today and this is why, at the Osmothèque, we try to keep those treasures. However, the Osmothèque was not originally created to be the place where you can smell ‘forbidden’ perfumes. The first purpose of the Osmothèque was indeed to carry completely discontinued great perfumes because of the personal history of the concerned brand (such as fragrances created by Coty or Millot). Furthermore, we also have loads of high standards fragrances which could not be sold today because of the forbidden, rare or expensive ingredients composing the perfumes. It is for example the case with fragrances using natural musk or fragrances composed of ‘Vétiver bourbon’ which is no longer cultivated by local manufacturers.

patricia de nicolai boutique

Parfums de Nicolaï Boutique in Paris

How has the role of women perfumers changed over the past two decades?

PdN: It has clearly improved from my younger years! After my studies, I was looking for a job as a junior perfumer and as a woman, it was not easy! I remember that when I was an intern, I was always proposed internships in evaluation but never in creation. This gender discrimination was not fair, but that was the norm back then.

But I have to say that things have now changed. There are a lot of women now in creation and who have achieved recognition as Perfumers. Actually, 80% of the ISIPCA masters candidates are women. Therefore, the creation teams in modern perfume business are very much feminized. Clearly discrimination has been shaded off with regard to what I lived.

Your thoughts on Madame Christine Nagel’s new role at Hermes?

PdN: Congratulations and above all ‘bon courage’! I’m sure she’ll do well and that she would be a precious aid to Jean-Claude Ellena. I really think that 2 perfumers are not too much in a big brand like Hermès.

2014 is your 25th anniversary and a time for celebration and reflection. Your proudest moments?

PdN: Everything is ahead and the best is always to come. Every day is a battle and you must never rely on a so-called success of yours otherwise you’re finished! Especially in the niche family…Regarding my proudest moment, it is simply the fact that I have been given credibility to my brand, a credibility which has been glorified the day I received a phone call telling me that I was appointed to become a prestigious French ‘Chevalier de la Légion d’Honneur’ in 2008; an honour which I was awarded as the creator of a perfume brand and not as a simple perfumer. It meant a lot to me.

How has your perspective as a perfumer changed over the past 25 years.

PdN:  25 years ago I had the impression that perfumery business reached a very low creativity point. The emergence of niche perfumery brought a complete new fresh air in a time where everything was ‘marketing’ and ‘communication’. Niche perfumery came as a healthy reaction and what is very interesting is to see in the early 2000’s, big brands such as Guerlain, Dior, Chanel or Hermès developing their own ‘niche’ perfumes like the Dior ‘collection privée or Chanel ‘Exclusive’. All this new creativity came thanks to the niche perfumers and I am quite proud to be one of the pioneers.

What is ahead in 2014?

PdN: Regarding 2014, other creations will debut and a quite heavy schedule is on track for our 25th anniversary…but I can’t tell you anything now.

LOGONICOLAI

We hope you enjoyed this in-depth interview with Madame de Nicolaï. As a special treat to our readers, Parfums de Nicolaï Parfumeur de Createur and Twisted Lily Boutique in Brooklyn are hosting a draw for the fragrances that were mentioned during the interview.

Two readers WorldWide-  30 ml Rose Oud (2013) AND 30 ml Amber Oud   (2013) courtesy of Parfumerie de Nicolaï

USA residents only- Reader’s choice 30 ml of Number One (1989), Musc Intense (2012), Kiss Me Tender (2010), Odalisque (1989),  Vanille Tonka (1997), L’Eau d’Ete (1997), Eau sOleil (2013) and Havane Diffuser.

 patricia de nicolai, parfumeur

Mme. Patricia de Nicolaï

To be eligible, please leave a comment about this interview – a quote you liked, a new discovery, something that touched you about Madame Patricia de Nicolaï. Please leave the name of the Parfum de Nicolaï perfume you would like to win in your comment, the country you live in (mandatory), and, since Madame de Nicolaï will be reading your comments any word or thoughts you would like to share with her. Draw closes January 16, 2014.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume

 

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118 comments

  • I would have liked to smell what Patricia would have created for Margaret Thatcher. I’d love to win New York. USA

  • I really enjoyed this interview. Patricia de Nicolai’s Vanille tonka was one of the first niche scents that I encountered and it was a “wow” moment for me. I loved this quote…”Everything is ahead and the best is always to come.” A new discovery was her role with Osmatheque. I was touched by her memories of her mother’s scent waking her up. My earliest fragrance memories are of my mother’s perfumes. She was also a Guerlain girl. She wore L’heure bleu and Chant d’aromes among others. I would love to win Vanille tonka. I live in the USA. I admire your story Madame de Nicolai and very much love the perfumes of yours that I have tried. I look forward to enjoying more in the future. Thank you! You are a fabulous role model!

  • What a wonderful interview! My very first niche fragrance bottle was Nicolai #1 and it is still the only white floral I have ever truly loved. What touched me about her story was that she struck out on her own because she wasn’t seen as fit for Guerlain because she was female. My grandfather, who had only daughter’s, left his dairy to his nephews so I relate to this story, but as maddening as it is, the perfume world is richer because of it. Brava, Mme. de Nicolai. I will always be a fan. And brava Michelyn for a wonderful interview.

  • I loved (LOVED) that she would want to make a perfume for Margaret Thatcher because that was so incredibly unexpected, funny, interesting, and different. She’s right that it wouldn’t be easy. I can’t even begin to imagine what would suit The Iron Lady! I also read her comment on IFRA with great interest, but sadness as well. Osmotheque as the unintended keeper of rare, extinct scents… 🙁

    My favorite perfume of hers that I’ve tried so far is one not mentioned here, Sacrébleu Intense, and I want a full bottle so badly. But I’d love to try Musc Intense. I’m in the US.

    As a message to Madame de Nicolai: Bravo, Madame. For all that you do, for leading the way for women, and for being true to your own beliefs without slavishly following market trends.

  • Thank you so much for the draw, I would be interested in Number One Intense, it sounds gorgeous!

    I loved how Shalimar was your morning wake up call by your mom and how it wafted into your window. What a wonderful memory, but also what a wonderful life to live there like that.

  • My favorite quote was “As far as I know, perfume never killed anyone!” when speaking of overly cautious restrictions. I would like to win Amber Oud or Musc Intense. Great article and even greater woman! Very inspiring to do things in your own unique way and timing. California, USA.

  • I loved reading this interview. I loved learning about her home fragrance line. I live in the us and would like to win odalisque. Mme de Nicolai I wear Sacrebleu every Thanksgiving and Christmas because it is the most joyful scent I own. I adore your creations and own several.

  • Oh, I am in the US and would love to win Vanille Tonka. I also loved Mme. de Nicolas’s comments about the oud fragrances because they indicate she is not thinking in terms of trends but in terms of real artistic expression.

  • leathermountain says:

    I am a huge fan, and I especially swear by L’Eau MiXte. I can honestly say that I have not smelled anything else like it, even though it sits in a highly-populated category of fragrances, and even though it is not outrageous or strange or unwearable. On the contrary, I love to wear it all the time, and not only in summer! Although it is so very delightful in summer…

    I am intrigued by Madame de Nicolai’s perspective on room scents. I hadn’t really thought before about that wider “field of acceptance,” and certainly not about the possibility to play in that wider field and find inspiration for body perfumes. Perhaps that has something to do with Mme de Nicolai’s knack for generating real olfactory ideas (and no gimmicks).

    I am in the US, and if I won I would select Number One Intense. Thank you for this fascinating interview, the wonderful photographs, and the generous draw!

  • I enjoyed the entire interview. I appreciated Mme de Nicolai’s comments on women perfumers and her opinions on IFRA restrictions. One of my first niche bottles was Number One and Le Temps d’une Fête is one of the first fragrances that I wear when the weather warms in the spring. I would love to win a bottle of Number One. I’m in the US.

  • Very interesting interview. It’s pleasant to read Patricia’s opinion about Margaret Thatcher. I love strong women too, they inspires me a lot.
    I’m from Russia and would love to win Amber Oud.

  • I adored this interview! Patricia is such an interesting and lovely woman. I am a great admirer of Maggie Thatcher, and chypres as well, so I’m intrigued by her choice of a perfume muse. She is spot-on with chypre as a choice for her; I’m to understand she preferred violet scents and Penhaligon’s Bluebell, and possibly Guerlain Mitsouko, but her personality and political persona screams for a bold chypre. I think Patricia would have made Baroness Thatcher a gorgeous chypre, and made a chypre convert of her if she was not one previously. I have only been privileged to try and own one PdN perfume so far, which is Le Temps d’Une Fete eau de toilette (so beautiful and epitomizes Spring for me). I would absolutely love to expand my ownership of PdN fragrances with either Kiss Me Tender or Odalisque. It’s so hard to choose! Thank you so much for the generosity, and exquisite perfume artwork. I think Patricia does her perfume heritage justice; I would hope her ancestors would be extremely proud of her.

  • ^ sorry again! Not sure what’s wrong with me tonight, keep forgetting to list I live in the US.

  • What an inspiring humble woman! I feel so blessed to have been able to read this inspiring interview. I too have a group of revered artist and was so elated that I had one in common with the EIC. There were many parts of this interview that I was delighted to learn.
    That her destiny sign came after the decision to launch her own brand. I am sure her ancestors were delighted in this decision! I love that Mme Nicolai inspiration from everyday smells, things that she enjoys. Inspired that she did not want to choose between Rose Oud and Amber Oud thus created both. Team work is a precious thing, her entire team seem to realize this and practice in an extraordinary way. Composing music seems a definite fit for an alternative profession for Mme Nicolai. It does indeed spark emotion as does perfume. I could go on and on but the most powerful statement that sticks with me in this interview is “I am a free woman, free to create my own perfumes the moment I want to, regardless of any marketing concepts” What a wonderful interview. So grateful for Mme Nicolai taking the time to do this interview with Michelyn and CaFleureBon. Michelyn, great interview after an extended absence of interviews! I would love the Musc Intense or Rose Oud

  • The perfumed morning wake up alarm sounds really nice. I wish I would be woken up by a wonderful scent instead of my loud alarm clock. Haha. Also, how wonderful does the Osmotheque sound? A research center tracing the history of perfume, with the largest scent archive, it must be wonderful to chair it. Thank you for offering us this great interview with Madame de Nicolai, it was a pleasure to read.

    I am in the US and I would love Eau Soleil. Thank you to Parfums de Nicolai and Twisted Lily Boutique for this generous offer.

  • Congratulations to Mme. de Nicolaï on her many pioneering accomplishments. I was surprised to learn that her home fragrances inspire her perfumes. I’m in the US, and would love to win Vanille Tonka.

  • Mme. Nicolai sounds like such a wonderful woman. Im excited to check out her perfumes after reading this interview. I wish her all the best of luck. I’m in the US and would love the win amber oud.

  • I think it would be just wonderful to wake up every day in the arms of a family of Artisan Perfumers. Congratulations on getting pushed out of the nest, starting your own company and long term dedication to the creative artistry of fragrance. Such a humble role model. I would love to experience Rose Oud (I LOVE Oud). Canada

  • What an insightful interview. Thank you for posting this. She seems like a genuine and humble woman, with an exceptional talent and dedication to her work.

    I have to explore more of her perfumes. So far I’ve only tried Odalisque and I absolutely love it.

    If Madame de Nicolai is reading this, I’d love to to know her thoughts on wearing perfume on the skin vs fabric (clothes). Any advantages or disadvantages with both approaches? Most perfumes disappear from my skin after 3 hours so I’m more inclined to spray on my clothes to make it last longer but I have found that projection sometimes suffer on certain fabric. I’d love to know her thoughts on this subject and how she personally chooses to wear perfume (where to spray and how much).

    I’m in Canada and if I win, I’d love to try Rose Oud. Thank you.

  • Thank you both for this interview. Inspiring and made my heart happy to learn Madame de Nicolai. An artist, pioneer, curator! I loved learning about how she started, about her family. I loved reading about her waking up to Shalimar wafting through her open window. I respected her perspective on IFRA – the idea that the regulations started off for good reason and have gotten more and more restrictive with less reason. As far as I know perfume never killed anyone is well said!

    I’m in the United States and would love to try Vanille Tonka. Sounds beautiful! Thank you both for the generosity!

  • This is a fairy tale interview from a very generous genius. France and legacy seem synonymous and this just sends my mind buzzing with imaginary little novellas that could be drawn from any point in time in this amazing woman’s life. I can easily imagine the scandal that becoming a perfumer must have stirred within the family and I’m grateful she played Joan d’Arc for us perfumistas. I have an original bottle of New York EDT and it is to die for. Totally outside my personal style realm, far too regal for a dude like me, but one of my top five all-timers, makes you feel like a man of class and distinction even in a hoodie. I’m in the US and would love to try the Amber Oud.

  • Odalisque is one of my favorite fragrances, and I will enjoy thinking of it as a scent Margaret Thatcher might have worn. I would also like M. de Nicolaï to know that I recently did a fragrance exploration with a friend, and the favorite scent was an old one, New York. Please keep giving us wonderful new scents to enjoy!

  • Marcopietro says:

    Great interwiew! I’ve always appreciated the work of Mme Nicolai, even what he plays for the osmoteque. I love many fragrances by her brand, especially NY, and impressed me his passion for home fragrance.
    I’m in Italy and I’d love to try Amber Oud.
    Thank you.

  • I had no idea that Mme. de Nicolai helped pave the way for women in perfumery, and not that long ago. Usually I’m a fairly cautious sampler/buyer, but her Sacrebleu had me reaching for my wallet at first sniff. I hope it hasn’t been replaced by Sacrebleu Intense, which I like but don’t adore in the same way. If someone else knows the answer, I’d love to hear it.

    I’m in the US, and my choice would be Musc Intense. Thanks!

  • Fazal Cheema says:

    I applaud Patricia for standing against the gender discrimination in the family business and charting her own territory. Patricia’s story is a proof that one’s craftsmanship and expertise doesn’t automatically translate to high character. Jean Paul Guerlain might have been a highly-skilled perfumer but that did nothing to improve his values.

    In my opinion, Patricia has surpassed Jean Paul Guerlain. I don’t mean to belittle Jean Paul Guerlain’s creations many of whom I love but he was handed down a family business and given formal training. In addition, he has no contributions to perfumery outside the house of Guerlain. Patricia started from scratch, built her own company, challenged the biases against women perfumers just as Germaine Cellier did, and in addition to her own company, she also runs Osmotheque and has been involved with French Society of Perfumers. And all of this with the prestigious ‘Guerlain’ last name attached to her. Building a brand is quite different from being handed down a brand with rich history so in essence, I believe Patricia has surpassed her more-famous uncle.

    For this draw, my choice will be Rose Oud and I am in the US

  • First of all: Patricia, happy 25th aniversary!

    I enjoyed reading this interview very much and I found it very informative. Loved the story of Patricia waking up accompanied with the scent of Shalimar. A few years ago when I discovered Shalimar I felt like I was coming home. It’s such a lovely and comforting scent. My absolute favorite Guerlain fragrance (especially the extrait version).

    Because I adore the scent of rose and I’m always looking for the next rose perfume (by the way I hate the strict IFRA regulations and I agree: never heard of someone dying because of perfume) I would love to try Rose Oud. I live in the Netherlands.

  • maysamassimo says:

    I love Parfums de Nicolai! Number One was one of my first steps into niche perfumery. I really liked to know of her role in the Osmotheque, especially after her difficulties to get in the business for being a woman.
    I’m in the US. My choice would be Odalisque.
    Thanks for a great interview with an amazing woman!

  • My journey in niche perfumery started last year and I soon discovered Parfums de Nicolai. I really love this house for many reasons. Thank you for making 30 ml bottles thus making it possible to purchase various fragrances – I own quite a few by now. But most of all the wonderful quality! Even notes I usually dislike (for instance coconut) can be wonderful in perfumes made by Patricia de Nicolai! (Juste un rêve). And thank you for composing I utterly fell in love with: Le temps d’une fête!
    Whereas people complain of being tired of oud, I can’t wait to try Patricia de Nicolai’s creations with oud; I’m sure they are exquisite and wonderful (and I can not choose which one I would like most).
    I wish you a great anniversary year and many more creative years to come!
    Best regards from the Netherlands

  • I came late to learning about Patricia De Nicolai and it was through Eau soleil, which I discovered at twisted lily during sniffapalooza that I began to learn more about Parfums de Nicolai. Jean Paul Guerlain not liking LHeure Bleue was interesting to learn as was the entire Guerlain family who created such masterpieces. I wonder what the company would be like with Madame at the helm. Very intriguing that home fragrances inspire many of her perfumes, I would think the other way around. Great interview from learning about the Osmotheque to a woman who changed fragrance history. My message is may we be blessed with another 25 yrs of your beautiful fragrances and hopefully Pefumes won’t be destroyed by IFRA.

    For me it is a hard choice but vanilla tonka or rose oud caught my attention Thank you and I live in The US.

  • I have loved many perfumes from PdN. Thank you for the interview! I was not aware of her family history, nor did I realize that it was so hard for female perfumers to break into the business not all that long ago. Patricia sounds like a very inspiring, independent person and I would also love to smell her perfume for Margaret Thatcher 🙂 I am in the US, and my choice would be Vanille Tonka.

  • meganinstmaxime says:

    Great interview! I loved the part where she talked about sleeping with the window open because this is the sort of thing that my stepfather used to encourage as well. She is really quite an inspiration with her work for the Osmetheque. I’m really keen to try her new ouds and the Musc Intense sounds lovely as well. I’m in the EU.

  • The whole article was very informative since I had no idea that Madame Patricia de Nicolaï was member of the Guerlain family and carried such a legacy with her into her own creations. What really touched me is her memories as a child while wakening up by her mother’s perfume smell Shalimar which happens to be my beloved one and I do have quite the similar memories too.
    I admire the fact that she is president of Osmotheque and I pray that she will carry on the legacy of her family’s name and save the ingredients of perfumes like Shalimar, Mitsuko, L ‘Heure Blue by Jacque Guerlain and others as well for future generations to know.
    If I win I would love to experience Amber Oud. I live in Greece. Thank u for this wonderful article and for your draw as well.

  • I didn’t know Patricia is President of the Osmotheque. That’s fascinating. Obviously I’m impressed by the achievements of breaking away on her own without Guerlain backing.
    What I found most interesting though was her take on IFRA, this quote was telling:’However, the Osmothèque was not originally created to be the place where you can smell ‘forbidden’ perfumes.’
    And this is as true as can be: ‘As far as I know, perfume never killed anyone!’
    Such restriction only hamper creativity.
    What I’d like to say to Patricia is that I’d like to be able to sample her perfumes. PdN is not stocked anywhere near me and no sample set doesn’t help. I emailed to that effect and never received reply btw.

    I’d like to win Rose Oud and I am in Cyprus,
    ty

  • I loved her quote ” as far as I know perfume never killed anyone..”
    There are many of her scents I have never tried , so I would love to win any of them .
    I also would encourage her to produce sample sets , and I hope she appreciates her noble heritage!
    Thank you for the generous draw , I would choose the Havane Room Diffuser .

  • Shalimar was very popular with my mother. I too remember wakening up to that scent. I also feel citrus scents are easy to wear. Guerlain is such a distinguished house to carry a legacy for. Rose Oud is my pick and I am in the US.

  • Big fan of Mme de Nicolaï and the fragrances she creates. I have read another interview last year and found her insightful and exactly what I would imagine a French perfume artist should be like. Her family history just make her all the more interesting, and I respect her more for starting her own line, Le Temps d’une Fete was a scent I did not get a first sniff, but now I cannot wait to wear it in the spring. I live in the US and would enjoy a bottle of Odalisque.

  • My 1st introduction to the line was L’Eau Mixte last year. I was struck by her thoughtful answers. I’m also impressed that she has managed to keep her prices reasonable. Great interview. I live in the US

  • Thank you so much, Mme Nicolai, for sharing your amazing, wonderful gift with us! I own and love many of your perfumes – my favorite is Sacrebleu. Wondering if you will be distributing your home fragrances in the U.S. market?

    I’m fascinated that you lived in the Guerlain Hôtel Particulier. What an amazing experience to grow up in the Guerlain household! I loved reading your answers.

    I live in the U.S., and I would love a bottle of Musc Intense. Thank you!

  • I just loved how Mms Nicolai is so successful and yet so humble and down to earth, never resting on her past success. I am in the US and would love to win Vanille Tonka or Musc Intense.

  • Anna in Edinburgh says:

    Very impressed at how down-to-earth Madame de Nicolaï is, given all that she has achieved in ploughing her own furrow in the perfume world. She must be extremely well-organised, to carry out such different and equally demanding roles.

    I suspect Margaret Thatcher would not have appreciated a French perfume, as leader of a Eurosceptic political party, sadly. I understand she wore “Bluebell” by Penhaligon’s, or, at least, that was what was publicly stated, to show she bought British perfume. Can you imagine The Iron Lady wearing a perfume called “Odalisque”? What a thought!

    I’d be delighted to wear “Rose Oud” or “Amber Oud”, as offered in the Worldwide category draw, and I’m in the UK.

    Congratulations on Parfums de Nicolaï’s Silver Anniversary.

    cheerio, and thanks for the opportunity to participate.

  • I enjoyed the discussion of the creation of Musc Intense and how Mms Nicolai chose to take a risk with this material to bring a different feel to it. I’m so happy she offers her fragrances in smaller sizes–we can have more! I’m in the US and I would choose Odalisque. Thank you!

  • Sounds likes she came more from a 19th century world. I’d love to know more of her early life! Her desire to make Mrs. Thatcher a scent caught me by surprise. I am not surprised, after reading this, that she admires other strong women.
    In the US; would choose Vanille Tonka.

  • What an amazing interview with Madame de Nicolai. Compared to some of these comments here I am a true novice when it comes to being able to describe the Top-Middle and Base notes – though I have been a lover of perfume since I was a small girl.
    I am a lover of Musc’s – I have read and tried a few of the more popular (and sadly – cheaper!) one’s celebrated on the many blogs that i subscribe to. It is Madame de Nicolai’s – Musc Intense that I truely long to have! Happy Silver Anniversary to Parfums de Nicoliai! I reside in the USA.
    Best!

  • I reside in the USA and would love to have Musc Intense! I love the reference to the influence your mother’s fragrance: “My mother’s room was situated underneath mine and the scent came through my window which was always open, because sleeping with an opened window is in fact very healthy. You can trust my grandmother on that!” I too remember fondly my mother’s fragrance. She wore Chanel #5 and can still smell this, mixed with the scent of her lipstick and cigarettes. Thank you for the opportunity.

  • Thank you for the delightful interview, Michelyn and Madame de Nicolai, and congratulations on your 25th anniversary! I’m a big fan of many of the PdN perfumes; several acquisitions have given me an appreciation for light scents because as you say, citrus notes make us happy. I’m also interested in the fact that you would have enjoyed composing music, Mme de Nicolai, since perfume and music mimic each other in their ability to stir emotions without words. Thank you for the generous draw, I’m in the US and would most like to win Vanille Tonka.

  • I really enjoyed reading about this interview – a big thank you for both Madame Patricia de Nicolai and Michelyn Camen. I found the whole story of Madame de Nicolai’s rise to success in becoming a perfumer to be extremely interesting. I love the Parfums de Nicolai brand and all of their offerings! And like many others, I liked reading about how she awoke to the wonderful scent of Shalimar when she was a young girl. I am in the US and if a winner, I would choose Eau sOleil.

  • I received a sample of Nicolai pour homme when I bought my first bottle of ‘niche’ from Luckyscent. It took me a while to revisit the samples I received that day, but I bought a bottle of Nicolai pour homme the very next day. Madame, if you are reading this, please bring it back! I’m sad to think about the last spray coming out of my bottle…

    I absolutely loved your interview with the creator of one of my favorite perfumes. She seems so…down-to-earth for such an important person.

    I live in the US and I’m dying to try Rose Oud, but I’d be happy to try anything she makes.

    David

  • I am taken by Madame de Nicolaï. Certainly this “we’ll see” moment/ judgement that came from the patriarch–her uncle, must not have been an easy pill to swallow. No matter, she persevered and carved out her own life and brilliant career, and artistry. There is no stopping a woman self-possessed and on fire.

    Her Odalisque –thank you for the draw-US

  • I enjoyed the whole interview and especially appreciate her role in opening up perfume to women! I would love to try Amber Oud or Vanille Tonka and am in the US. Many thanks for the candid thoughts and the draw.

  • Wow. Although I knew she was related to the house, I had no idea that Mme. de Nicolai had such a reaction from Guerlain. I had assumed that she would have support and some ‘family secrets’ coming from this background. I also didn’t realize she had so many impressive accomplishments. Congratulations to her on 25 years and making it entirely on her own and in spite of the sexism she encountered.
    I am in the U.S. and would love Odalisque. Thank you!

  • I didn’t know she is related to the Guerlain family!! Amazing to wake up every day with Shalimar scent!! I am really looking forward to the new releases!
    I would love Amber oud as I live in the UK

  • burntsiennna says:

    I had no idea Mme de Nicolai was related to the guerlain family. Somehow this is a house I have yet to explore. This article has me very excited to do so. I would love to win Vanille Tonka. I am in the US.

  • susie frankel says:

    First – I live in the USA and would love to win Odalisque.

    My favorite from this in-depth interview (great job MC) is —FREE TO CREATE WHATEVER I WANTED. The sign of a true scent artist. Yeah!

  • Wow, she has FOUR children! And such an extraordinary career, too! I’m full of admiration (and a little bit of envy). I live in the US and would love to win Vanille Tonka. My message to Patricia is that her work is much admired in the perfumista community. We love her dedication to quality and beauty in a time when so many perfumes are dumbed down. Thank you so much!

  • I was interested to learn that she loves home fragrances- I feel like very often there is a division between personal and home fragrances, and even a condescension toward home fragrances. I live in the US and would like to win Number One.

  • Elizabeth T. says:

    How do you do it all? Raise four children, create perfume, run your business, and be president of the Osmotheque? What a lovely interview, I learned much about the company and the perfumes. I live in the US and would love to win Havane Vanille if I happened to win. Thank you very much!

  • Wonderful interview! I liked everything about it.
    My favorite quote regards oud:
    “Some say that I am ‘too late’ but I did not want to be trapped by trends. I am a free woman, free to create my own perfumes the moment I want to, regardless of any marketing concepts”.
    I am in the US.
    Thank you!

  • Wonderful interview! I liked everything about it.
    My favorite quote regards oud:
    “Some say that I am ‘too late’ but I did not want to be trapped by trends. I am a free woman, free to create my own perfumes the moment I want to, regardless of any marketing concepts”.
    I’d pick Amber Oud. I am in the US.
    Thank you!

  • wefadetogray says:

    It is lovely how Patricia’s first scented memory is that of school inkwell. I also find interesting how she was able to overcome gender discrimination in the perfume world.
    i’d pick Kiss me Tender or Odalisque 🙂
    Thanks I am in the US

  • What and interesting and informative article. I particularly loved her quote, “A society that takes no risks could one day disappear ….” so true!
    My choices would be Vanilla Tonka or Rose Oud.
    Thanks I live in the US.

  • helical gnome says:

    Oh la la! Patricia is such an amazing woman. The fact that she was appointed a Chevalier is just another mark of her success. I also like her thoughts on IFRA restrictions for I too believe that they hinder the development of perfumery. Being cautious is one thing, no taking risks at all is another.
    I am in the Us and i’d pick Musc Intense.
    Thanks!

  • Madame de Nicolai is genuine. That’s really the heart of this interview. When asked a question, she responds from the heart. It certainly helps that she has the brains, wisdom and experience to elaborate upon her thoughts. But, she is really genuine. To me, that just about sums this interview up.

    One of my favorite quotes has already been mentioned, so I’ll just throw in my two cents. Following her own path and not getting caught up in the latest fad in perfumery is the mark of a real original.

    A huge grin came across my face when I read about the ‘forbidden perfumes.’ Yes, I read the context and all, but it was funny. Think of all of us that have vintage scents, with those ingredients in them. For shame! I think I’ll write down the phrase, “Perfume Never Killed Anyone” Another gem.

    I wish everyone was as real as this. Great interview.

    I live in the U.S.A. and I would love her new Amber Oud.
    If not, why not her most challenging, Musc Intense?

    Thanks to Parfums de Nicolai Parfumeur de Createur and Twisted Lily Boutique for the drawing. Special thanks to CaFleureBon for an insightful interview, as well as hosting the drawing.

  • What I found most interesting is that this descendant of the Guerlains mentions, before anything else, the scent of her inkwell at school. Ok, Shalimar came straight after, but I love the primacy of non-perfume scents: the ordinary smells that make up the everyday and which are so evocative. I love it that with all the sophistication of perfumery there is still that wonderful simplicity.

    I live in South Africa and I would choose Rose Oud because I still do not have an our-rose fragrance:)

  • Best quote: “As far as I know, perfume never killed anyone”.
    I would be pleased to win some Amber Oud.
    Thank you — USA — 🙂

  • I liked this quote: However, a society taking no risk is a society that could one day disappear.
    I also think it’s interesting that she would be a composer if she weren’t a perfumer…so many perfumers take their inspiration from music, and I really love that, since I love music as much or more than fragrance.
    I am in the US and I would choose Kiss Me Tender or Vanille Tonka!

  • What a lovely interview! It’s impressive for a perfumer to be part of the Guerlain family even if she couldn’t work with them…. but..it’s even better to create her own perfume brand. On the other hand the work it is being done in the Osmothèque it’s a dream for me, “un paradis perdu”, a place I would like to visit!!
    I’m in Europe and I would like to try Rose Oud, I’m also a lover of real rose.

  • This was such a pleasure to read Michelyn, one giant insight. The Osmothèque is the kind of place I have dreams about! Happy anniversary to Madame de Nicolaï.

  • This was a fascinating and in depth interview. I enjoyed reading about her background and totally agree that perfumery is an art, even though
    skills are required to execute it.
    I did not know that Nicolai makes home fragrances.
    I am in Australia and would love to win Amber Oud.

  • How wonderful…my favorite house. Eau Soleil made my summer! I made sure that when I tried it, it would be on the beach, so I could be reminded of it whenever I wear it. I love the fact that she reads blogs, so hopefully Madame will read how loved her scents are. Kiss Me Tender is my night scent. Sacrebleu was the scent that got me thru the days my father passed away. Vanilla Tonka makes me want to paint.
    I’m in the U.S. and would love Amber Oud.
    thanks!

  • Thanks for the super interview. I fell in love with “New York” at first sniff. The aromatic citrus, amber and spices are the best. I love her attitude of making her own style of perfume and that’s final. I had no idea all the extra goodies she has created. Oh how I would live to work my sniffer at the Osmothèque. What heaven! I enjoy her quote, “Is perfume an Art or a skill? Definitely an Art”. I too believe this. I’m quite curious if a guy could pull off Vanilla Tonka, so this or the Amber Oud, would be my choice. I do live in the USA. Thanks Madame de Nicolaï for your excellent creativity.

  • i live in the us and would love to try rose oud. I loved this article and the quote..as far as i know perfume never killed anyone…although i am sure it has slain a man or two! 😉

  • Ah, Madame de Nicolai, I would love to smell the perfume you would create for Lady Thatcher. Serge Lutens has created a Vierge de Fer, but a Dame de Fer would be even nicer!

    And yes, New York is absolutely wonderful. My bottle is about to run out… And my wife swears by her Sacrebleu Intense and Vanille Tonka.

    Amber oud is the one that intrigues me the most.

  • What a fascinating woman…and a great read. I love how Ms. Nicolai is true to her creative vision. The following resonated with me, ” I left Quest because I was restrained by the practice of creating fragrances based on focus groups and marketing questions.” I admire her for stepping out on her own and creating fragrances that appeal to her, not the masses. I am in the US and if I was lucky enough to win, I would like to try Amber Oud.

  • Chapeau Clack says:

    Congratulations to Mme de Nicolai on the anniversary of what I can only describe as a passionate journey! It’s truly amazing and inspiring to see how she overcame all those obstacles and nay-sayers.

    Like many previous commenters, I too loved the passage about forbidden perfumes (restricted substances, anyone?) and felt great respect upon reading Mme de Nicolai’s opinion on the oud trend and being free to stay off that bandwagon for as long as she wished.

    And four children! As a mom of two with a new career in a male-dominated industry, I think I just found the best role model and inspiration I could dream of!

    Thank you for this interview, MC. It was a delight to read.
    I’m in Russia (by the way, Parfums de Nicolai has quite a cult following among the perfumistas here) and I would be happy to win either of the Oud duo.

  • This woman is so inspiring. What doesn’t she do that is not interesting! President of Osmotheque, a Guerlain royalty, a Chevalier. I am inspired. Thanks for this article.
    I am in the US and I’d love Kiss me tender.
    Thanks 🙂

  • Perhaps the most down to earth perfumer I’ve ever read about, Madame de Nicolai exudes an enviable, effortless elegance. I enjoyed reading about her classic love for the timeless rose and her modern ambitions for amber.

    On the theme of classics, this USA native opts for Number One; thanks for the draw.

  • I adore Parfums de Nicolai and I think that Patricia is a jewel in the field of commercial perfumery.I found the interview fascinating and I share her love of both Beethoven and Rose.All of her fragrances have a classical element to them and it seems they spring from a purely artistic well rather than from the usual commercial test marketing.Also the fact that such high quality perfumes are offered at such reasonable prices and in such convenient sizes is evidence of her dedication to her craft over profit.I’m in the US and would love to win Amber Oud.Thanks to Patricia de Nicolai and Twisted Lily for the fabulous draw!

  • “Perfume never killed anyone” – AMEN. Patricia de Nicolai is one of the most eloquent and inspiring perfumers in the industry. I was surprised and interested to learn that she would want to be a music composer – another one of many links between perfume and music. Thank you very much for the draw and interview. Unfortunately PdN perfumes are not readily available in Australia so I would love to win Rose Oud and Amber Oud!

  • Liz Detrich says:

    What a lovely article, and such a pleasure to learn about Mme. Patricia de Nicolaï. I remember discovering Number One while working at a small Boutique perfume store in Sarasota Florida called Body Scentsations. I was immediately enamored by her creations.

    My favorite quote would be “As far as I know, perfume never killed anyone”. I also loved reading about the inkwell.

    I would love either Sacrebleu or Number One.
    thank you for the opportunity for the very generous draw, I live in the United States.

  • How amazing would be living at the Guerlain’s house? I found it really funny that she used to wake up smelling the Shalimar that her mother put on in the room underneath hers. What an amazing start of the day!
    It also surprises me that she would choose Margaret Thatcher, who I personally think would not have had the sensibility to appreciate the masterwork which is Odalisque.
    I find Patricia de Nicolai one of the most talented perfumers around and I am glad that she could make her own path in the perfume world, because even coming from the Guerlain family, as she says, “After my studies, I was looking for a job as a junior perfumer and as a woman, it was not easy! I remember that when I was an intern, I was always proposed internships in evaluation but never in creation”.
    I would love to win Amber Oud, and I am in Belgium.

  • It really striked me how modest Madame de Nicolai is.
    No big words about “luxe”, “exclusivity” etc. etc.- just pure genius and talent. Best luck!

    I would like to win Rose Oud, I am in EU

  • Even as she celebrates the 25th anniversary of Parfums de Nicolaï. I like that Madame’s focus is on the future (“the best is always to come”). I feel sure that Mme. de Nicolaï will be enchanting us for many, many years to come. Congratulations, and thank you for giving perfumistas everywhere such pleasure!
    I am in the US, and would choose Vanille Tonka if I won.

  • Patricia Nicolai, I am your BIGGEST fan, and I’m excited that you might actually read my comment here. When I first became interested in perfume, I purchased a mixed set of samples, and inside were three of yours — Eau d’ete, Juste un Reve, and Odalisque. These fragrances changed the way I experienced perfume, but more so, they changed the way I experienced my life at the time. I was searching for meaning and looking for a direction at the time. For weeks, I’d wear Eau d’ete on one arm and Juste un Reve on the other, and I’d compare them and live through them, and I realized that at least part of the purpose of life is to experience as much beauty as possible and to make life (for myself and others) as joyful as possible. I wore the original Weekend a Deauville on the day that I signed my wedding license, and I wore Un Coeur en Mai on the day that I wed. Your fragrances are tied to many of the best days of my life. I think your work is amazing.

    Your fragrances are a thinking woman’s fragrance. They’re evocative and inspiring and complex, and I enjoy wearing them immensely. Please don’t stop making wonderful perfumes.

    In regards to the interview, I found many things surprising, but most of all I was surprised to hear that Madame Nicolai started the business thinking that she might eventually fail. She’s so talented and her brand is so credible (as she puts it) that I am surprised that she ever doubted her future success. She’s talented. So many other brands rely more on marketing than the juice, unlike PdN. And I was also surprised to hear that she reads comments on the blogs. Maybe she has read my comments before!

    I am in the US and would choose Number One, or Rose Oud if I am eligible for the worldwide. I actually have a very tiny smidgen of the original of Number One, and it’s splendid.

    Madamde Nicolai, if you are looking for ideas for a fragrance, I would love to see an iris-centered PdN fragrance (not counting Odalisque, which I think of as more white floral and is amazing on a man too).

    Thank you for the lovely interview!

  • My favorite quote from this interview is “As far as I know, perfume never killed anyone.” What an amazingly insightful and personal interview. Thank you Mdm. Nicolai for sharing your story. The struggles and the journey you have made as a perfume pioneer are inspiring. Twenty-five years later you are still going strong!

    I did some DEEP research on these fragrances. I only have New York myself; so, I had to referee a fight between my brain and my nose (lol) My brain tells me to go with Eau sOleil…but my nose is dying to sniff Musc Intense with oits pear liquor note, dry spicy florals and musk musk musk *sighs* The winner? MUSC INTENSE (by a “nose”)

    US resident. (with a European soul and nose…lol)

  • The quote that touched me is: Some say that I am ‘too late’ but I did not want to be trapped by trends. I am a free woman, free to create my own perfumes the moment I want to, regardless of any marketing concepts… This is the reason I like this woman and her creatures!
    I live in Germany and would like to win Amber Oud, because I simply love this Oud-Amber combination.
    What I want to share with Madame Nikolai is that I love every scent she ha created, of course I am talking about the scents I have already tested. I am deeply impressed how many legendary perfumes can someone create in only 25 years. I dont think that anybody in the perfume world can be proud of so much quality scents like Madame Nikolai. I want to wish hear health and to continue to work in the same way, she is doing it so far.

    Greetings from Germany

  • I am an avid lover of all items scent related-Perfumes, body washes, lotions, candles, air fresheners, carpet deodorizers. Anything to make myself, my kids and my home smell good!!!! I am inspired by Madame Nicolai’s dedication to creating amazing out of this world perfumes!!!! I love Guerlain’s Shalimar-such a soft but vibrant scent, reminds me of what the Angels in heaven would smell like!!!!I would love to try the Vanilla Tonke!!! I am from the USA. Thanks and God bless!!!!

  • I love that she chose Margaret Thatcher as someone she would like to create a scent for. Such a force of character! I live in the U.S. and would love to win the Kiss Me Tender! Thank you for the draw!

  • What a wonderful in-depth interview! Always happy to read about a woman being so successful.
    Of course my favorite quote was, “As far as I know, perfume never killed anyone.”
    Would love the chance to try Kiss Me Tender. I am in the US.

  • tomate farcie says:

    Thanks for a great interview. I’m a big fan. My overall impression is one of strength. From wanting to design a fragrance for Margaret Thatcher, listening to Beethoven, president of Osmothèque, growing up with some formidable men! my first choice would be Vanille Tonka. I,m in the US.

  • This is a fantastic interview with a wonderfully talented perfumer. Patricia’s collection of fragrances are so beautifully executed. One of my favorite things about the Nicolai perfumes is that they have that wearable quality and ability to merge with ones own personal scent seamlessly.

    I look forward to seeing what creations she will make over the next 25 years.

    I fully back her up as a fellow perfumer that the regulations have become too stringent and it is hampering creativity. The most important regulations have already been identified. Now should be the time when perfumers should be allowed to express themselves with zeal.

    Congratulations on 25 years Patricia!!!!

  • I liked that her mother liked to be the first to test out her cousin’s perfumes; so would I! And as soon as I saw Margaret Thatcher’s picture I thought “What a challenge!” before reading why she’d picked her. What a perfume that would be. 🙂

    I am in the US. Please consider me for the Amber Oud or Kiss Me Tender!

  • I am in the US and I would love some Odalisque de Parfums Nicolai. this is a gorgeous perfume with a super sensual dry down. I LOVE it.

  • “You really feel refreshed wearing citrus notes and they make us feel happy.” I like this quote. Citrus does give me a great uplift, esp. lime or grapefruit. I do own Eau d’Ete, Balle de Match and New York. All superb and I rotate them frequently. I would love to see some more men’s fragrances that are deep and not quite so light. I’m a resins and spice kind of guy. You are truly inspiring Madame de Nicolaï. Amazing background, Can’t wait to see what you have in store for us. Amber Oud and Eau sOleil both sound so great. Thank you. In the U.S.

  • I absolutely love New York….a staple in my collection, and yet to find something similar in quality.

  • From this brand I have only tried Kiss me tender but I’m curious to know other fragances from this house.
    Patricia is very lucky to be born in such a great family and weak up in the morning with the smell of Shalimar …
    But I didn’t know that it was so difficult 20 years ago to become a perfumer if you are a woman. Congratulations for becoming a great perfumer woman and take care of the Osmothèque! We need more Osmoth’eques in the world!
    I’m in Europe and I choose Rose oud.
    Thanks.

  • My favorite quote is: “… I wanted to be free! Free to create whatever I wanted and free to organize my time…”
    I would love to win Amber Oud or Vanille Tonka.
    US
    Thanks!

  • I love the fact that Patricia has had a continuous love of roses. I love roses as well especially if it’s combined with the right types of spices and woods. I never knew rose essence has a pear liquor accord in it. very fascinating! I would like to win the perfume Odalisique. I’m in the US. Congrats Patricia on all your success as a great perfumer. Your Guerlain ancestors would be very proud.Keep up the excellent work.

  • I’m kind of late to the game here, so everything has been said already! I loved when she talked about her mother’s Shalimar waking her up every morning and when she said, “As far as I know, perfume never killed anyone.” Odalisque sounds wonderful and I would be honored to win it. Thanks for the extensive interview. US.

  • Such an amazing journey from a child growing up in a famous perfume family to a trailblazing perfume artist; it was truly inspiring to read! I particularly enjoyed the information about the Osmotheque (a library of perfume antiquities, oh my!). I was also delighted to read of Mme. de Nicolai’s love of the rose (a favorite note of mine, as I have several beautiful roses in my garden and I adore using them in teas, honeys, and to scent my home) and that she worked on the development of Tresor (once a favorite of my mother’s).

    I live in the US and would love to try Eau sOleil. Thank you!

  • I like her opinion about making trendy scents “Some say that I am ‘too late’ but I did not want to be trapped by trends. I am a free woman, free to create my own perfumes the moment I want to, regardless of any marketing concepts”. Thanks a lot for oud fragrances draw – I am very curious and if I win I would like to get Amber Oud (Europe)

  • Courtney Warren says:

    I like that her first scent memory isn’t something you dont typically remember. The school inkwell…who would have thought?
    Thank out for such an awesome opportunity.

  • I really like how Mme Nicolai rose above ‘gender discrimination’ in the industry, set up her own brand/ house, and rose to be a well regarded person in the industry (the technical committee of the French Society of Perfumers and the President of the Osmotheque).

    I live in Singapore and would like to win Amber Oud. Thanks!

  • What an amazing interview! I really enjoyed reading this, especially hanging on every word about growing up as a part of the Guerlain world. The discussion of perfume as art, and what was said about IFRA also captivated me. And the quote, “However, a society taking no risk is a society that could one day disappear,” carries a poignant message. I live in the U.S. and I am very interested in Musc Intense. Thanks so much!

  • What a great article. I enjoy every single part of it, from about her childhood and her mom and Guerlain , what an amazing childhood! To be able to be a witness of ask those great creations to her achievements in being the first women to be recognized as a perfumer and reading about how she was able to build one of the first niche houses, fascinating story. And if she reads my post to tell her to keep the good work and keep creating wonderful fragrances like New York and Baladin (my favorites!)
    I live in the US and would love to win. Amber Our.

  • I really enjoyed every bit of this interview. What a wonderful life! I expect I’m a particular shade of green–with envy right about now. I had no idea of the Guerlain pedigree, but I loved the bit about her mother being Jean Paul Guerlain’s guinea pig! Talk about your dream jobs! 😉 I live in the U.S. and would love to win Vanille Tonka…it was a toss up between that and Musc Intense. I look forward to learning more about this line in the future, and thanks to everyone for a great read and generous draw!

  • Hi everyone,

    Many thanks for all your wonderful feeedbacks regarding the interview I did with Michelyn. It so motivating to see all the interest you have about my beloved passion: the perfume.

    If I had some time, I would have loved to personaly reply to all of you! However, I am too busy working on my new creations and at the Osmothèque.

    Warm regards to everyone and especially Michelyn.

    PATRICIA de NICOLAI

  • What an inspiring story! I loved that her first scent memory is the inkwell, because one of mine is also in the classroom – of the graphite and wood shavings in the pencil sharpener. I always volunteered to empty it.

    I kept getting this image of this passionate young woman getting patted on the head by the elder gentlemen perfumers, like, “Isn’t she cute? She wants to be a perfumer!’ and finally getting fed up and striking out on her own. Very brave, especially with all those kids and family.

    I am in the USA and would love to try Musc Intense.
    Thank you!
    Wow Madame de Nicolai actually left a comment and read all of ours!

  • I wanted to think of something meaningful to say since Madame de Nicolai actually read these, but the words would not come. My favorite part of this fascinating, expansive article was the part where she decided to have a career and eventually to become independent and bypass the old boy’s club–and that she ‘made history without knowing it.’
    And I did not know, or had forgotten, that she is the president of the Osmotheque! Wow. Her career has been incredible. Someday I wish I could go there…

    Also, my favorite quote: “If you were not a perfumer you would be…

    PdN: A music composer! Arrange notes, looking for harmonies, evoking emotion (this is not very far from my current job).”

    US, if I get into the draw I’d choose Kiss Me Tender because I had an almond croissant today. They all sound amazing so why not.

  • Mme Nicolai, Wishing you and your team a great Anniversary and I am sure I can speak for all of us We look forward to the newest creations for this Milepost year for you and your team.

  • I’m really glad Madame de Nicolaï never stopped moving forward, her enthusiasm and will to create something harmonious inspires me to appreciate this art even more. I may not have much skill in creating perfume but I understand the degree of difficult based on my experience of trying to create a scent a while ago. I think if its not for people like Madame de Nicolaï, the perfume industry would be stuck in boring, uninspired, “safe”, focus group driven fragrances. Niche perfumers deserves a big applause for breaking free and creating art pieces that are both uplifting and inspiring themselves when worn. They take me on journeys across the globe and evoke emotions, thoughts, and state of minds. Madame de Nicolaï, never stop even if you run into great difficulty.

    I am liking Vanille Tonka, it sounds amazing

    USA

  • I wanted to wait til the draw was closed so that Madame de Nicolaï would know my gratitude came without strings! :o)

    Thank you, Madame, for taking the time and effort to create fragrances from your heart, not for focus groups! Your undeniable talent, care and attention shows in the beauty of your perfumes.

    And thank you for offering them in smaller bottles, and at a generous price, so that people like me can experience their beauty, too!

  • Pat Turcotte says:

    Madame de Nicolai pretty single handed dragged me down the rabbit hole into perfume madness. I was minding my own business on the streets of Paris when I entered a charming little shop with perfume.. Several hours later and head swooning I emerged with a bottle of Just un Reve.. My first encounter with the Parfums de Nocolai.
    Back in the sticks of western NYS. I nervously watched the level of that precious bottle go down. Nowhere to buy a replacement around here. And that’s what led me to Internet perfume and SAMPLES!!
    The world opened upon an olfactory playground! I would like to wring her neck in gratitude. At the moment am wearing Kiss Me Tender.
    I was so delighted to find this article and put a face to the name of my tormentor. 😉
    I would love to have musc intense

  • He encontrado encantador el detalle de que la Sra. de Nicolai, cuando era pequeña se levantará todos los días percibiendo el olor de Salimar que usaba su madre. Importantísimo el premio que le dieron en Francia, como joven perfumista. Y para mi, como gran amante de los perfumes, lo más importante es que gracias a ella y demás artesanos del perfume podemos ser un poco más felices, ya que a diario podemos disfrutar del lujo que es oler en nosotros una obra de arte.
    Me gustaría vainilla tonka, el musk o cualquier otro dulce, pero al no ser posible el ambre oud

  • girasole638 says:

    I’m having fun reading through the interview archives and this is one of my favorites so far! I’ve only just begun exploring the house of Nicolai and I’m very impressed!