Élisire Eau Papaguéna (Franck Salzwedel and Pierre Negrin) “What’s In A Name”

monica-belluci-parrot

Photo: Monica Belluci for Harper's Bazaar Photographer Signe Vistrup

What is your first experience with a new perfume? Is it holding the bottle, reading or watching the advertising, smelling the scent? My initial encounter is often simply a matter of connecting with the name!  Sometimes perfume houses tell it like it is and name a fragrance for what it smells like. Then there are fragrance names that hint at what the perfume might turn out to be. Names are designed to suggest romance, fantasy, color, texture and music. But there are also monikers that have multiple meanings or that are totally esoteric – the significance of the name known only to the perfumer.

Eau Papaguéna Original Illustration (watercolor, fine liner and gel pens) by Nafia Guljar

For me the name "Eau Papaguéna", Franck Salzwedel's 2015 fragrance created for Élisire with Firmenich perfumer Pierre Negrin, alludes to colors and sounds, as well as to astronomy and opera.   When I hear or read the word Papaguéna I imagine the luminescent greens and yellows of Amazon parrot feathers. 

dior-mag-parrot

Photo: Dior Magazine #6 Ben Hassett

The words for parrot in German, Italian, Portuguese and Dutch are similar (papagei, pappagallo, papagaio and papegaai respectively) Papagena is also the name of a large, bright asteroid – 471 Papagena – discovered in 1907, that made its most recent appearance in 2015.  My favorite connection to the name is via Papagena in Mozart's' Magic Flute. Although this character plays only a minor role in the opera, the duet between Papagena and her bird catcher lover Papageno is one of the all time delights and highlights of operatic literature and repertoire.

fashion-editorial-parrot

Photo: Edelscope.com

It is easy to connect all of these impressions with my experience of Eau Papaguéna. The extrait de parfum is initially bright, sunny, spirited and far-reaching, evocative of  fresh green herbs and bold, yellow citrus fruits, similar in the effect to classical Italianate colognes. The very first whiff refreshes with grapefruit, tarragon and mint. 

alexander-mcqueen-parrot-dress-le-dame-bleu-springsummer

Alexander McQueen, Parrot Dress 'Le Dame Bleu' Spring/Summer 2008

Eau Papaguéna recedes after about 20 minutes to reveal a youthful heart of cardamom and honeyed orange blossom, balanced with vetiver, woody notes and Ambroxan.  Much like the operatic character, Eau Papaguéna does not stay long on center stage, but is memorable.  After a few hours a trace of vetiver, wood and a faint memory of orange blossom remain on my skin.  These last notes linger for three more hours. Sillage is close as one might expect from an extrait, but projection is excellent.

ralf-javoiss

Ralf Jovoiss fro Maxim Italia

I imagine wearing Eau Papaguéna during the summer heat, but it is appropriate any time of year for either men or women.  Eau Papaguéna would be especially effective (and enticing!) worn as a compliment to a crisp cotton shirt and tanned skin – breezy, uplifting, clean and full of life.  

Gail Gross – Sr. Contributor

Art Director: Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief

 

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44 comments

  • It’s never too early to think about new summer fragrances. I enjoyed reading about the various meanings and associations with the word papaguena. I have never heard of this house until today so I don’t have a favorite. USA

  • Diana Devlin says:

    This sounds like a really refreshing and uplifting fragrance. I love that the orange blossom note remains throughout. It’s one of my favorite perfume notes because it has such a clean, soapy feel to it.
    I wasn’t aware of this perfume house until I read this review. I’m eager to find out more about them.
    I think perfume names are just as important as the look/design of the bottle. The name should reflect the style of the perfume.
    I live in the U.S.

  • I love the word “Papaguena”, sounds so exotic and joyful. I would love to smell it. I do pay attention to names and I think a beautiful name, along with a pretty bottle, make a fragrance whole.

    (EU)

  • I will never stay indifferent to anything with ambroxan so I am in for the bottle of this deliciously sounding Eau Papaguena – I am sure it smells as great. I live in Europe, thank you for the draw.

  • This is the first time I’m hearing about the house, so no favourites. But Eau Papaguena sounds interesting!
    First, a summer fragrance in an extrait concentration is something I want! The “honeyed orange blossom” mentioned in the article piqued my interest since orange blossom is probably my favourite note in summer fragrances. 🙂 And the fact that it can be worn with an elegant cotton shirt sold it for me, hehe.

    I live in Romania (EU).

  • cinnamon tree says:

    “Perfume by any other name…” No, it wouldn’t be the same perfume. The name can completely change my perception of a scent. Example: I once tested a fragrance by Etat Libre d’Orange and I didn’t smell anything shocking or unusual about it… until I saw the name Secretions Magnifiques. Well… It suddenly turned way too strange and physiological and that ended my adventure with this scent.

    “Eau Papaguéna” sounds sensual, fruity, sunny, and beautiful. I’d love to smell it. I live in the EU.

  • In my opinion what make perfume beautiful, ordinary or bad is the scent itself and nothing more. I don’t care about the name (although I do appreciate a nice one when I see it) or the brand. Only notes matter. And in Eau Papaguena they are impressive. Cardamom, incense, vetyver, fruity notes with my favorite bergamot. Definitely worth trying!

    Thank you for the draw. I live in Poland, EU.

  • The first thing that I thought of was the opera. I honestly don’t pay a lot of attention to the name of fragrances. I am much more intersted in the notes of the fragrance. This is not a perfume house with which I am familiar, so I don’t have a favorite. Thanks for the draw. I live in the USA

  • I have yet to try any of the Elisire fragrances and there are two that caught my attention, now three. For me sometimes fragrance house and notes go hand in hand. Certain houses have a certain perfume DNA that may not work well on me, generally most do not work then. Since I have yet to try any Elisire count me in 🙂 Thank you so much USA here and Happy Holiday!

  • I suppose the food notes stand out most to me since I enjoy cooking. I love cardamom and I have tarragon in my garden. I need more summer fragrances. The name of a fragrance usually isn’t what draws me in, probably because a lot of my fragrances are French and I can’t pronounce the names. I go by first sniff and looking at the notes. I am unfamiliar with this line, but would love to try this. I live in the US, thanks for the draw!

  • acquiredtaste says:

    What appeals to me is that the perfume is described as memorable. Perfume names aren’t important to me as I mainly care about the juice. I can use a US forwarding address even though I stay in Malaysia.

  • Eau Papaguéna! I love the name, and the notes sound wonderful as well. I had an instant attraction to the name for several reasons. Mozart’s duet between Papagena and Papageno is one of the most charming and memorable pieces of opera I’ve ever seen. And I know a very happy Amazon parrot named Papageno.

    I live in a part of the United States where colonies of parrots have developed from small numbers of escaped pet birds. We see flocks of conures and parrots in our neighborhood from time to time. A few years ago my son had the opportunity to hand-feed and tame a baby Amazon parrot that fell from its nest and was abandoned by its parents. When the baby parrot was grown and ready to leave our home, he went to live with a married couple who named him Papageno. Papageno is treated like a prince. He captured the hearts of his people and truly rules his roost.

    Cologne-style fragrance is at the top of my list of favorites, and Eau Papaguéna sounds like it would smell delightful. I have to admit I agree with Gail, a fragrance’s name is often a point of first connection to a fragrance and influences my perception, especially at first sniff. Kiss Me Tender and Dan Tes Bras are two fragrances that caught my attention because of their names.

    Thank you to Gail for introducing me to Élisire and Eau Papaguéna. And I truly enjoyed the high fashion photos that included beautiful birds and bird motifs. I have a parakeet on my shoulder as I write these words, so this review of Eau Papaguéna really made me smile.

  • I find Eau Papaguéna interesting because it has that Hermes feeling. Moreover, it is best for summer but it can also be worn in other seasons and is suitable for both men and women. In short, Eau Papaguéna is a fragrance of many faces. I have not tried any Elisire fragrance yet. I am in the US.

  • marcopietro says:

    Reading the review led me unconsciously several times to smile. The images and the colors evoked are the most cheerful and bright as possible, and the fragrance too sounds so funny like its name!
    I agree with you, the name is very important in the first impression of a new fragrance, certainly the olfactory experience will be crucial, but the world evoked by the name predisposes my approach with a scent.
    Thanks for the photos, the parrot is my favorite animal since childhood.
    I live in EU.

  • Eau Papaguéna sounds perfect for a warm day, and I always want to try any perfume with orange blossom, or inspired by an opera! The name of a perfume is not the most important thing to me, but like Tiffanie, an intriguing name will inspire me to try a perfume with notes that might not be immediately appealing to me. (Diptyque L’Ombre dans l’Eau, which is beautiful, is something I only tried because I liked the name so much.) I’m in the US.

  • Iuno Feronia says:

    I love Mozarts Opera and I love this Name for a perfume. This sounds perfect for a bright, gay, sunny day. my favourite perfume from Elisire is Ambre Nomade. I liev in the EU. Thanks for the draw!

  • This perfume sounds wonderful from the review. I have never heard this brand before. I like the name “Papaguéna” sounds happy and exotic. I like birds, parrots. They are so cute, so I think I would like this fragrance also. Thank you for the chance. I live in Europe.

  • So much appealed to me from the images so bright to the beautiful review. I just watched a YouTube video of the opera scene and it was beautiful. Names can be important to me for example byredo always intrigues me with his names Rose of no man land and gypsy water
    Kilian not so much his names seem marketing
    Tanned skin and crisp white shirt sounds good right now as it is so cold
    I have read about Elisire and Cafleurebon and have always wanted to try ambre Nomad
    I live in the USA

  • Liked the association with colors, sounds and astronomy and that it has an excellent projection. Choosing a right name for particular fragrance is very important. Knowing the name before smelling, it does make me expect a certain something and lots of times the names do not match what I’m smelling. I live in Europe.

  • Hikmat Sher Afridi says:

    Nice article, review and Thanks for the introduction of new perfume house. The name “Eau Papaguena” of the perfume is interesting. Papaguena meaning is “Pretty girl/lady” when I googled its meaning. I am short of summer fragrances and this honeyed orange blossom, refreshing and uplifting fragrance will bring charm in my perfume collection. Never heard before of this perfume house, nor tried any of the fragrances.
    Thanks to the generosity of Franck Salzwedel and Elisire, and Cafleurebon for the opportunity to participate in the draw by giving my relative address of NY, US.

  • Richard Potter says:

    The bottle is absolutely gorgeous. I could use some honeyed orange blossom today. I used to sing Papageno. Great role. US.

  • Gail’s description especially the paragraph where mentions: “I imagine wearing Eau Papaguéna during the summer heat, but it is appropriate any time of year for either men or women.
    Eau Papaguéna would be especially effective (and enticing!) worn as a compliment to a crisp cotton shirt and tanned skin – breezy, uplifting, clean and full of life.”
    This is the reason I would love to try this perfume creation from Elisire house. Unfortunately up till now I have not tried anything from this house.
    For me the name of a perfume always plays a key role in order to determine whether I am going to try it and experience it.
    I am a registered reader living in EU.

  • I love attending opera’s and especially Mozart opera’s. Of course I saw “Die Zauberflöte” and the most wonderful part is this specific duet. Very curious about a perfume that is inspired by this duet. I live in Eu. Thanks for this wonderful draw!

  • I love this type of fragrance, especially in the summer. The name of a fragrance is enticing, but it is what is smells like that would make me buy it. I have not tried any fragrances from this perfumer. I live in the USA.

  • This fragrance sounds divine, to me particularly with the cardamom and orange blossom notes. I can imagine wearing it with a flowy summer dress on a warm day, and enjoyed the warm-weather imagery. I don’t have a favorite Élisire fragrance as I haven’t had the chance to try any. US. Thanks for the great draw!

  • I love this name and Gail’s description is so cool. After reading I think I want to try a grapefruit flower note! I’ve never heard about this brand.
    Thank you so much for the draw! I live in Europe

  • I love parrots! This perfume sounds heavenly and I wish I could try it and feel like a colorful happy bird.
    The name is not as important to me as the bottle – and this one (especially the cap) looks beautiful. Thank you for the draw, I’m in Europe.

  • “Eau Papaguéna would be especially effective (and enticing!) worn as a compliment to a crisp cotton shirt and tanned skin – breezy, uplifting, clean and full of life.” This sounds so tempting i could almost leave everything and go to some hot, sunny country where I can fully enjoy Eau Papaguena. I love the name of the fragrance and the “Magic Flute” context. Thanks for the draw! EU.

  • cinnamon tree says:

    I do pay attention to the name of the perfume: it creates the background on which I recognize the notes and let them form a small reality. Depending on the name, the same composition represents either a garden or a jungle, a church or an alchemy lab. Sometimes if I test something without knowing the name, I don’t quite know what to think of the perfume 😉

    I live in the EU. Thank you for the draw of this so interesting fragrance!

  • concertslover says:

    Awesome. Very interesting that it is named parrot and also the name of an astroid in space. The many colors of the feathers of this fragrance hopefully will blend with spring because if I win the draw I don’t think i could wait until summer to break it out.
    USA

  • I like the name “Eau Papaguena”, but the notes sound even more tempting. I would love to try it! Thank you for so interesting review. I live in the EU.

  • I love bright and summery scents in the dead of winter! Loved the review and the truthis the perfumes’ names intrigue me too and make me dream about colours an dimages! I am in the UK

  • Miss Almond says:

    Ah, parrots! I had a pet parrot when I was a child and he was my true friend. I love every colorful bird and, while wearing a fresh, energetic perfume, I sometimes feel like I was a bird myself. So yes, Eau Papaguena is a name that would make me buy a perfume! Thank you for the draw. I live in the EU.

  • I’m so happy to see another cardamom scent reviewed. It’s been on my mind of late. This also particularly interests me because it’s coupled with incense, which is one of my favourite bases. It sounds lovely to pair the refreshing top notes with the spicy heart and sultry smoke base notes. Wonderful! Names are essential to my first reaction to a fragrance. They convey so much about the inspiration for the scent that I often can tell if it is in the families I gravitate towards, at least. After the first sniff, though, the name stops mattering to me. It is quite a great accomplishment when a perfumer is able to find the perfect name. It must be as difficult as titling a book!

    I’ve never tried an Élisire fragrance before, but would love to try Ambre Nomade. I live in Canada, thank you.

  • I’m a fan of Mozart music so I have to try this fragrance! The notes sound lovely. I live in Europe, thanks!

  • This sounds lovely: “The extrait de parfum is initially bright, sunny, spirited and far-reaching, evocative of fresh green herbs and bold, yellow citrus fruits, similar in the effect to classical Italianate colognes. The very first whiff refreshes with grapefruit, tarragon and mint.
    Eau Papaguéna recedes after about 20 minutes to reveal a youthful heart of cardamom and honeyed orange blossom, balanced with vetiver, woody notes and Ambroxan. Much like the operatic character, Eau Papaguéna does not stay long on center stage, but is memorable. After a few hours a trace of vetiver, wood and a faint memory of orange blossom remain on my skin”. i would be so happy to win! Thank you for the draw. I live in the EU.

  • Great read! I love how crisp and refreshing this sounds. Perfect spring and summer type fragrance for me. Thanks for the draw and I’m in Canada.

  • doveskylark says:

    I like how this review uplifted me. The citrus notes, the idea of wearing it with a crisp cotton shirt in the summer– I feel refreshed and hopeful.
    I love when a name of a perfume evokes a place or refers to something in nature or in the arts. I love learning new things from perfume. I always wonder if the fragrance will evoke for me what the fragrance evoked for the creator.
    I live in the USA.

  • It was interesting hearing the connections of the name Eau Papguena, and I loved the multicolored dress used to illustrate! I love orange blossom in all its guises but I don’t think I’ve ever smelled orange blossom and cardomom together. sounds lovely! Thanks for the review and give away. USA

  • What an interesting article. I can only add that yes, for me name matters. for a long time I didn’t even want to try La Vierge de Fer because its name sounded so unpleasant (a medieval torture machine as a name for a fragrance? I didn’t even want to imagine what a real device must have smelled of…). When I finally forced myself to sniff it, I was shocked it is a nice lily flower scent. But still I don’t like it – because of the name.
    So – yes, Eau Papaguena sounds good and I hope smells good, and it can be my fragrance, and I am ready to try it 🙂 Thank you for the article (and lovely photos!). I live in the EU.

  • Eau Papaguéna does not stay long on center stage, but is memorable. I would like to try this bright scent. Description in the review adds to it some summer mediterranean tranquillity. Name Papaguena suggests a bird “papagaj” in my language too. I am in EU. Never tried Elisire scents. Thanks

  • What a coincidence – I was just listening to that portion of The Magic Flute this evening (in the context of an opera lecture)!! I think it’s true that the name can influence our perception of a scent significantly. I see this all the time in fragrance reviews and have also felt my own perceptions shift when thinking about a scent’s name (then, of course, there are also cases of fragrances that don’t seem to ‘fit’ the name they’ve been given). Eau Papaguéna sounds like just the bright tonic needed for dull winter days. I’m also interested in exploring the cardamom note further so this would be a lovely opportunity. Thank you to Gail for the review and to CaFleureBon for the draw! I’m in the US.