ÇaFleureBon Perfumers Workshop: Creating Perfume Oils and Solid Fragrances + 40notes, aroma M, Sarah Horowitz Parfums and Velvet and Sweet Pea’s Perfumery Draw

oils-perfumes-ancient-egypt

Ancient Egyptians wore scent cones made of beeswax and as they would dance the oils would perfume the air

Egyptians, well versed in the beauty of aromatic ingredients, steeped precious and sensual aromatics in oils and fats to create perfumed gifts for kings and gods. Many modern perfumers find the same luxurious beauty in creating with oil and beeswax for their blends. Intimate and long-lasting, oil and solid perfumes are an alternative to alcohol for those who love the experience of smoothing rather than spritzing their perfume. In France, concretes, a mixture of oils, and waxes were poured into molds, famously Fragonard sold them since the 1920s and today Le Labo has added solids to their offerings. Crafted with complexity and beauty, they are well worth a try. We asked four indie and artisan perfumers who are renowned for their coveted perfume oils and solids.

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MiriamVareldzis of 40notes creates perfume oils

Dr. Elise Pearlstine: Oil and solid perfumes are a very different medium from alcohol-based perfumes. What attracts you to this particular medium?

Miriam Vareldzis of 40notes Perfume: I created the 40notes Signature Collection in an oil carrier because I felt the carrier created a more sensual experience, ‘rounding the edges’.  I love the depth and richness that surround a fragrance created in an oil carrier. I originally created the collection in an Apricot Kernel oil base, and soon after realized the slight nuttiness affected the tonality the scents. The line has been in fractionated coconut oil ever since.  Alcohol can be an excellent carrier and is often easier to work with than oil… especially for difficult-to-dissolve resins. I also love it for “splashy” citrus and green scents.  Personally, I’ve not ever experienced my skin drying out with an alcohol based scent, but many people enjoy the moisturizing effect that oil has on their skin with an oil carrier.

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Laurie Stern Velvet and Sweet Pea’s Purrfumery

Laurie Stern Velvet and Sweet Pea’s Purrfumery: I love having a pretty little compact and applying them to my wrists, cleavage, and behind my ears. They're soft and still radiate a gentle scent. I have been keeping bees for 11 years and always use my own beeswax for them with an organic jojoba base. It feels like I am honoring ancient techniques to create modern treasures since I only use botanical essences to make them.

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Sarah Horowitz-Thran of Sarah Horowitz Parfums

Sarah Horowitz-Thran of Sarah Horowitz Parfums: Although I do not work in solids, oils were my first medium – and still my favorite.  I describe the difference between EDP and oil in terms of intimacy; the oils are far more intimate – they have a shorter range of sillage, but last longer on the skin.  One has to be a bit closer to the wearer to smell them and they work more intimately with the body chemistry.  We like to say that they have a “nuzzle factor”.

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Maria McElroy of aroma M Perfume: I have an aromatherapy background, so my initial blending experience was with oils. I have always loved to apply oils to the skin; it has its own sensual quality. I like to create my perfumes to feel like a veil on the skin and that is something only oils can do. I feel there is a deeper interaction with oils on the skin. Longevity is also something that I appreciate working with oils. For me to have scent linger on skin even the next day is the perfect scent experience.

What are the challenges and rewards? How do you achieve sillage?

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Raw materials and oils Sarah Horowitz Parfums

Sarah: The challenge is perhaps in the education on some customers that do not feel that the oils can be as “high end” of an experience with the finished perfume (“Do I have to touch it with my fingers?”  ) as well as the misunderstanding that many clients believe that if it is an oil it MUST be a natural, which is not always the case.  And the sillage, of course – but as I mentioned earlier – the rewards to me outweigh the challenges; the intimacy and the longevity are great selling points.

Laurie: Of course with natural perfumes I want them to last a long time, so making sure there are enough base notes, like vetiver, patchouli, vanilla, etc. And I up the top note a little too. I really find them sensual and luscious! I use a high percentage of materials! Most of my customers know that the naturals are worn close to the body, and are happy with that.

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Maria McElroy of aroma M work space in Brooklyn

Maria: I am at ease working with oils. Because of the viscosity of oils the sillage it not difficult to create and can be quite fascinating.  My perfumes are known for their long staying power, I love that about oils.

7-40notespackagings

40notes perfume oils bring to mind the vintage fragrances such as Caron with the badrouche gold cording and  glass stoppers

Miriam: I feel the scents automatically have a softer more intimate feel in an oil carrier, which is a lovely benefit.  I would say a challenge to working in an oil base is to achieve a clear freshness with certain topnotes. In my experience, sillage is in great part affected by the construction, quality materials and signature of the scent itself, regardless of the carrier.  

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40notes Perfume flacon

Tell us a little about how you find the perfect packaging.

Miriam: That’s the ongoing quest, isn’t it!  I find I’m inspired by an era in perfumery, and then attempt to create my version of it today (without doing any custom glass work, so far!).  For me, packaging decisions also have the waste/recycle issues to consider these days; which is a very big consideration during development.

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Velvet & Sweet Pea’s Purrfumery Packaging is whimsical and custom designed with a vintage vibe

Laurie: I am a packaging freak! I love that part of it! I custom designed my sterling silver jewel boxes that house them and I sewed the original the silk purses with a rhinestone buckle for them too. Sadly, I only have a limited amount of them and I can't get them anymore! I always loved the perfumes from the 1900's where when you were done with the perfume, you had a magical bottle and box for keepsakes.

Sarah: For our oils, we use a roll-on bottle. The client can apply wherever they like, whenever they like, with great control.  Also GREAT for travel, which is another selling point.

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aroma M Roll On Bottles are as different as snowflakes and uses Japanese paper

Maria: I have been using roll on bottles since the 2000’s. They are easy and I like the fact that they can be popped into your bag for travel. For more glamour, the French stopper bottles couldn’t be more ideal. I offer aroma M’s all-natural perfume oil Camellia in these classic perfume bottles. This fragrance oil lends itself to this style of a dressing table bottle.

wear-perfume-where-you-want-to-be-kissed-coco-chanel

"Wear perfume where you want to be kissed"-Coco CHANEl apped MC

How  and where do you recommend people wear oil and solid perfumes?

Laurie: I love them just for myself, and take great joy in sniffing my wrists and feeling the effects that these gorgeous essences have on my emotions, but also do feel free to apply them where you want to be kissed, as Coco said!

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Sarah Horowitz Thran with a customer

Sarah: I recommend pulse points; wrist, neck, cleavage, even behind the knees, or ankles.  The different application I recommend for oils that I never recommend for an EDP is to apply a tiny amount to the hair by dabbing a bit of oil on the fingertips, and running the fingers through the hair. As hair has no body heat, as skin does, the fragrance is not being burned off and the scent will last all day until washed.

Maria: I think that is the best part about perfume oils; you can really control how much you want to wear. With alcohol spray perfumes it is difficult to know how much you end up applying, but with oils you can dab just a bit or roll on more for a heady night out.

Miriam: Lavishly, of course!  With oils, wear where-ever skin is exposed: décolleté, neck, wrist, back of knee!  Any remaining, I like to rub on the ends of hair (it’s such a little amount it will be absorbed in no time).  I own an amazing Natural Rose solid perfume made with pure beeswax and jojoba that I even pat on my face during the day if I want a hit of Rose.

–-Dr. Elise Pearlstine, Editor and Perfumer for Tambela with contributions from Michelyn Camen, Editor in Chief

For our Oil and Solid Perfumes Draw: There are four perfumes from our gifted perfumers.

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Worldwide:  The award winning 2012 CaFleureBon Best of Scent 40notes Crystalline Hyacinth Limited Edition 2 ml sample vial (only four ounces was ever produced. This is one of former Managing Editor Tama Blough's favorites)

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US Only aroma M Camellia Perfume Oil sample All Natural

moon-and-stars-locket-velvet-and-sweetpeas-purrfumery

US Only Velvet and Sweet Pea’s Purrfumery Moon & Stars Scent Locket  housing a stunning solid composed of tuberose, star shaped jasmine, sandalwood, cacao, Ceylon cinnamon and mandarin.ALL NATURAL

perfect gardenia sarah horowitz oil

Pictured Perfect Gardenia

US Only Sarah Horowitz Parfums Perfect Tuberose rollerball oil

To be eligible you must be a Cafleurebon registered reader (register here).  Please leave a comment with what you learned about oil and solid parfums creation siting specifics, if you wear solids or oils and why, your choices should you win, and where you live. Draw closes 11/23/2016.

A CaFleureBon Perfumer’s Workshop Page is coming soon to Facebook

Follow @cafleurebon  @elisepearlstine @aroma_m_perfumes @miriamvareldzis @sarahhoriwitzparfums and @velvetandsweetpeaspurrfumery on Instagram

We announce the winners on our site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume

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26 comments

  • fazalcheema says:

    I agree with Sarah oils are more intimate than edp,oils may not project as much as edp but they last longer. I have not really tried solids except tabu but I think that was way past its use date. My choice will be Sarah Horowitz Perfect Tuberose Oil. I am in US

  • Toblerone says:

    Maria is right: there is nothing like oils when you want an outstanding longevity!
    I didn’t know about the perfumed Egyptian gifts for gods and kings and I wouldn’t mind receiving such a gift myself 😉

    I live in Europe and I’d like a 2 ml vial of Crystalline Hyacinth Limited Edition. Thanks!

  • Francesca Brice says:

    I enjoyed reading Maria’s comments specifically about the oils and the care needed in producing those clear top notes. Specifically as well I quote the comment on the “packaging decisions also have the waste/recycle issues to consider these days; which is a very big consideration during development” which is an issue always close to my heart and love to see it being re-inforced.
    I wear both solids and roll ons and enjoy the differences each bring. I think of the deep notes of Oud that work so well in a solid form and just love the way it settles on my skin. The roller I like as a more out there feeling, a more socialble medium in my opinion. Worldwide samples are my choice and I am registered and in NZ- thanks for the review and interviews- just lovely- felt almost part of the conversation 🙂

  • Rae Lynn says:

    I love solid perfumes! They are so much more sensuous then alcohol based scents. As Sarah Horowitz says, ” We like to say that they have a “nuzzle factor”. Also, upping the top notes helps balance it as Laurie said. This was an interesting review. I would love the Moon and Stars Locket from Velvet and Sweet Pea’s perfumery. I live in the USA.

  • GrandmaGaga says:

    I have used both solids and oils in the past but thought of them as less elegant or fancy than the typical experience of lavish spraying. I also wasn’t aware that there is any sillage to speak of with oils. This article has really piqued my interest in this vehicle for scent and I would love the chance to win the Crystalline Hyacinth Limited Edition sample vial. I am in the US. Thank you to all for this generous giveaway!

  • tooka81 says:

    I loved reading each perfumers take on why and how they use solids and oils, or just one over the other. I learned a lot that I never really thought about, I was a little alarmed learning that some french fragrance creater’s used concretes to create solid fragrances though. But I loved the perfumers passion for the different mediums of oils, and solids, using beeswax to create scent solids. I never though about how people used the solid fragrance because alcohol based scents dry their skin out that never accured to me or that they radiate a gentle scent on the wearer. How oils can be intimate scnts because they are so close to the skin and I also always thought that oils lasted longer than edp because I always tended to still smell them onme the next day, so it was new for me to learn that they have less sillage than an alcohol based scent. I especiallly love learning about new ways to wear a fragrance and this article has definitely got me interested in trying solid scents, escpecially the ones that come in jewelry carriers, they never really interested me until now! I would love a chance to win any of these four offering , but if I had to choose it would be the Velvet and Sweetpea’s perfumery Moon and Stars Locket! I live in the USA

  • Rox says:

    I really love a long lasting fragrance which I think is a plus for an oil. My first solid fragrance memory was when I was a teen, I believe it was Avon and it came in a chapstick type tube. More recently I’ve tried solids and had great success with Pacifica line. I had I bought at a local shop on vacation that seemed like maybe it had too much beeswax. Sad because I loved the fragrance. Should I be fortunate to win I would like the Moon and Stars locket (so glam) or the Crystalline Hyacinth. I must be absolutely precious since so little was made. Thanks for the draw.

  • Lellabelle says:

    I love the intimacy of oils. This was a great article, highlighting an important, and traditional, form of perfumery that seems sadly overlooked by many. I make scented blends for my very long hair that condition and add shine along with adding a subtle scent that lasts all day. Oil based perfumes have a sensuality to them that is quite unique.
    I’d love to win any of these, but my choice would be the beautiful locket from Velvet and Sweet Pea’s perfumery. The notes sound rich and warm, and like they’d be perfect for a solid perfume. The locket is lovely too, and I particularly appreciate that Laurie makes this with her own beeswax! An artisan, indeed 🙂 US please.

  • ringthing says:

    I never considered the difficulty of dissolving resins in an oil medium, and creating sparkling top notes would be a challenge! I have loved perfume oils since I wore ubiquitous musk oil in high school in the 70s. I like the intimacy and the soft way that oils radiate from my cleavage so I can stick my nose in my shirt to breathe in scent – I used to work in a very hot kitchen, and those shirt sniffing moments during a quick bathroom break were vital! I also appreciate the way that oils can be layered more easily than with sprays since the application is more controlled. These are all wonderful prizes but because I always felt that Tama was my scent twin, I would love the sample of 40notes Crystalline Hyacinth. Thanks for the informative interviews and generous opportunities, I’m in the US.

  • Laura B says:

    I enjoyed what Laurie said about “honoring an ancient technique” – that’s exactly how I feel I apply solid perfume to my pulse points. The smell & ritual takes me to another time! I wear both solids & oils, but I particularly like solids when I’m out & about. I’ve never worn a scent locket but what a beautiful way to carry a fragrance! I would choose the Moon & Stars scent locket if I were chosen. Thank you for the generous draw.

  • Sylvia Long says:

    I learned that oils will not be burned off of hair like skin because hair doesn’t heat up. I like to use oils! I would love to try Sarah’s Perfect Tuberose Oil. My favorite note is tuberose and I live in the no coast boonies- so it would be a real treat to get to try this!
    Thanks for the draw.

  • teresa310 says:

    Very interesting interview! I like using oils and solids, but unfortunately my favorite fragrances don’t have solid or oil versions. I love the sensual, intimate moment of applying oil on my skin.
    I’d love to try Crystalline Hyacinth. Thank you for the draw.

    (EU)

  • Ellen M says:

    I learned that although the silage may be less, the actual longevity may be the same or greater. I’d love to try the Crystalline Hyacinth and I use quite a number of perfumed oils on my skin. I live in the USA. Thank you for the opportunity.

  • Hikmat Sher Afridi says:

    Fascinating article & interview. I am delighted with reading all the four noses suggestions & recommendations but impressed from Maria McElroy of aroma M Perfume & Sarah. Solid perfumes & oils in the form of Attar were usually used by my grandfather & father. I still have few solid perfumes which I use on clothes whereas oils/attars (Arabian/Loose) are frequently used in our region.
    Never tried any of the oils of these four noses. This will be a great treat if I win 2 ml vial of Crystalline Hyacinth Limited Edition.
    Thanks for the draw. Peshawar, Pakistan

  • sillage8 says:

    Oils aren’t my preferred way of wearing perfume but sometimes it suits my fancy to smooth some into my hair. In general, they don’t seem as layered and ‘unfolding’ as my favorite alcohol-based perfumes. I think Miriam hits on something when she says the challenge is in achieving “a clear freshness with certain topnotes.”

    I’m in the USA and that Velvet and Sweet Pea’s perfumery locket is spectacular in both outward presentation and the listed perfume notes inside.

  • Donna S says:

    very interesting article. I enjoy reading about ancient times, as with the Egyptians, and their use of oils and perfumes. I like to imagine the scents that were created. I also enjoyed the recommendation to apply a little oil to the hair. Sometimes I spray my brush with perfume and then brush the hair and it really does linger. I’ve used oils and solids, but do not have a large inventory. I just recently bought a beautiful hand made oil at a local holiday craft show. It is very nice. Definitely they have the nuzzle factor as was mentioned. I’m in the US and would actually love any of the offerings. They are all so beautiful. Thank you.

  • allaces says:

    I didn’t realize the ancient Egyptians were so well versed with using and creating oils. I don’t have much experience with solids…unless you count some of my deoderents ;P Ive used oils before and created a few fragrances from the oils. I admire the honesty of the article contributors about oils and their sometime sillage issues. Was nice reading about characteristics that compensate for lack of sillage, like the intimacy and longevity of the oils.

    If I were to win I would love the limited edition Crystalline Hyacinth, followed by Moon and Stars locket, Perfect rollerball and Camellia perfume oil.

    Im in the USA

  • doveskylark says:

    I agree with Maria’s comment about oils acting like a veil on the skin. I always like when there is longevity and I can still smell the fragrance the next day.
    I make my own fragrant oil. Some oils have a nutty aroma, and I love the way jasmine or neroli blends with that aroma. I use my homemade oil as face moisturizer and to keep my hair shiny.
    I sometimes use solid perfume from Lush, especially Karma.
    My first choice would be the Hyacinth sample, followed by the Aroma M oil.
    I live in the USA.

  • Filip__ says:

    I don’t have any solids in my perfume collection (it’s difficult to get any masculine perfume in this form) but I have several oils and I like the scented trace they leave on my skin. And I didn’t know about the hair perfuming, I think I will try this, since I like long lasting fragrance effects. I would choose Crystalline Hyacinth vial. Thanks for the draw, I live in the EU.

  • Lubulla says:

    I am one of those people who has a bit of doubts that solids and liquid fragrance can be compared. I had only one solid from The Body Shop, but I did use it only few time. Oils are much more interesting for me and I use some. So easy to travel with roll-ons.
    I like Sarah words “the intimacy and the longevity are great selling points” of the oils and that the oils have “nuzzle factor” 🙂
    I am in EU. Thanks for this interesting review.

  • hvit says:

    I have one solid, it’s a long discontinued Neblina by Yves Rocher. It has better longevity than the spray version and I love its sensual, slightly oily and creamy touch. I regret that my favorite perfumes, like Molecules, don’t have solid versions. I like also oriental roll-on oils. I agree that “the scents automatically have a softer more intimate feel in an oil carrier”.
    I’d love a Crystalline Hyacinth sample. I live in Norway, thanks!

  • Hootlia says:

    I have used oils and solids in the past, but only have one bath oil (E. Coudrey Rose & Jacinthe) at the moment. I do have a Chanel extrait, which I love for similar reasons (intimacy and longevity). I found it interesting to find out that apricot kernel oil imparts a scent, but that fractionated coconut oil does not. Coconut oil usually has quite a strong scent! I’m very happy 40notes is no longer in apricot kernel oil, though, because I’m allergic. I guess that’s a bit of an issue with oils. I’d also never considered that it would be harder to render top notes in oil, but it makes perfect sense.

    Ok live in Canada and would love to win 40notes Crystalline Hyacinth Limited Edition. Thank you!

  • Miss Almond says:

    The information about oils behaving differently on hair than on skin was new to me, although I use oils quite often (sometimes I spray a little perfume into a portion of a hair/body oil). I would like to win Hyacinth Crystalline because I love hyacinth. I live in Europe, thanks!

  • sunnlitt says:

    This is a very interesting article.
    I learned that perfume oils ” have a shorter range of sillage, but last longer on the skin”. That was a great description of the difference between oils and alcohol-based scents.
    I have not worn any oils or solids in years.
    I would love to experience Crystalline Hyacinth again. I sniffed it once at the San Francisco Fragrance Salon. It was great and would certainly bring back memories of a wonderful day.
    I live in California.
    Thanks.

  • hotlanta linda says:

    I love the enthusiasm for oils and solids 🙂 I find them softer in finish 🙂 Will put my name in the hat for Sarah Horowitz`s mini roll-on, or aroma M`s Camellia sample 🙂 We live in the USA…Thank you for good writing! 🙂

  • hofken says:

    In reading about oil and solid parfums, I learned that I should be looking more to incorporate them into my fragrance routine. I only have a couple of solid perfumes and no oils. The solid perfumes are great to toss in my handbag for discrete touchups. I thought it was interesting that “‘concretes’ are a mixture of oils, and waxes poured into molds.” I live in the US and would choose Velvet and Sweet Pea’s Purrfumery Moon & Stars Scent Locket or the 40notes Crystalline Hyacinth Limited Edition.