Christopher Chong, the Creative Director at Amouage, previewed the latest addition to the line Opus V. He also agreed to answer some questions about the Library Collection and Opus V itself as we take you Behind the Bottle for Amouage Library Collection Opus V.

Mr. Chong is a man of many talents and EIC Michelyn Camen wondered if he was aware of the significance of the number five in the arts. From Chanel No. 5 through to Beethoven’s Fifth; the number five has represented significant creative milestones for many artists.

As Michelyn asked did you feel any significance with the number 5 as it has a number of different symbology interpretations not the least of which in perfume circles is Chanel No. 5.

CC: It was very nice of Michelyn to research about the significance of the number 5. I wasn't aware of it. I'm glad to see that the number 5 has a very positive vibe. With fingers crossed, I hope Michelyn will send me more positive energy for the number 6.

In the press materials, for Opus V, it states the internet, and the sense of sharing in an electronic community, was the inspiration. Could you expand on that a bit?

CC: The Library Collection is a homage to knowledge and the art of living. Each Opus represents a form of knowledge and recollections. In Opus V, I am inspired by the form of the internet and social media democratizing how knowledge and information are shared and processed. As a fanatic fan of Facebook and Twitter, I am amazed with how instantaneous information has become. Perhaps this sounds absurd and obsessive, but having immediate access to information 24/7 wherever I am gives me a tremendous sense of liberated power. Just think about it, a single thought consisting of only 140 characters on Twitter can create a global impact instantly. I think I better stop here or else I will be going into geopolitical sphere.

With the internet as backdrop I expected to get a hint of ozonic electrical circuitry, did you and perfumer Jacques Cavallier discuss adding an “Electrical” accord?

CC: No, we didn't because I have never wanted to do a literal representation of a concept. It is more about the state of being and the spirit of knowledge disseminated on the internet these days. Even though we didn't angle the fragrance with a digital electrical accord we place the focus on the two very classical and popular notes, Orris and Agarwood as the representation of how traditional knowledge and information are shared in the modern era through digital social media. It is more along the lines of reconstructing the familiar with a new interpretation and lifestyle.

Are the Opus series going to be an open-ended kind of production with a new Opus being released every six months or will there be a conclusion? And when will you know to end?

CC: The Library Collection is an open-ended series. Each Opus represents a form of knowledge and is more experimental with the art of perfumery. We have no intention to end this collection because we feel it is important to balance the traditional artistry of our classic collection with a series that is more daring and visionary.

It is the last answer that finally places the Library Collection firmly in its place within the Amouage pantheon. While enjoying all of the Library Collection fragrances so far they all felt unlike the rest of the main collection and now Mr. Chong has confirmed they are meant to.

Opus V is really a mixture of Orris and Wood through and through. It begins with the shiny slightly metallic version of Iris, courtesy of Orris Absolute. The heart is still Orris but in the form of Orris Concrete. When I attended Esxence I had the opportunity to try some Orris Concrete and discovered this to be the ingredient which takes the sharp metallic Orris and transforms it into something soft and warm. In Opus V the Orris Concrete slowly subsumes the Orris Absolute in the top and then rose and jasmine arrive to create an intense floral heart. For a time Opus V resembles Gold a bit as the three floral notes in Opus V combine with some gusto. The base is agarwood and ambrox and I really wish the agarwood stood up more forcefully to the ambrox. As has been so often the case, of late, the ambrox steals the latter phases of Opus V.

Opus V has outstanding longevity and above average sillage.

Opus V once again shows that Amouage, under Christopher Chong’s creative stewardship, is a fragrance House with one hand steeped in tradition and the other hand typing madly on its keyboard searching the internet frontier for something modern. I’m looking forward to Opus VI.

Disclosure: This review was based on a sample provided by Amouage.

–Mark Behnke, Managing Editor

We have a draw, for Five Opus V samples please leave a comment on your favorite Amouage fragrance, about the internet and information. Draw ends April 23, 2011