Ava Luxe Perfumes Tabak Kretek (2016), Royal Parvati (2006) and Green Tara (2011)~Fragrance Reviews + 3 You Should Be Wearing Draw

Serena Ava Goode (Serena Ava Franco), perfumer for Ava Luxe Perfumes via ava-luxe.com

Ava Luxe Perfumes: a blast from the past, and relevant in the present as well. I’ve written about Serena Ava (Franco) Goode’s’s fragrances as far back as ten years ago (October 2007 for another blog when there existed only a handful of perfume blogs at that time). It seems fitting that I suggest to you, dear readers – three exquisite perfumes which suit the fall season admirably: Tabak Kretek, Royal Parvati and Green Tara Ah, the woods! Serena Ava Goode loves her fine woods and employs them with a lavish hand. Her output is prodigious, so it helps to have a guiding nose with which to comb through those long lists of tempting fragrant offerings. I chose three which embody the spicy, the sacred and the sensual: I hope they make you as happy as they make me.

Vintage Ad  Araks Cigarettes ©

Let’s begin with Tabak Kretek, the perfumer’s authentic take on those aromatic Indonesian clove cigarettes (Djarum Black) which were banned in the U.S. in 2009. By 2010 these little jewels became available once more – but only as tiny cigars. Their subversive reputation was due, in part – to the fact that any good intellectual or pseudo-intellectual worth their cloves smoked these in college. They were purported to be good for you – more so than regular tobacco. While they are very alike, I find the latter to be a bit smokier. One thing I’ll say for Serena – if she can’t locate the appropriate sources for her perfumes or afford the materials she loves, she ceases making them. No compromises.

Where There’s Smoke There’s Fire by Russel Patterson©

Warm, smoky, spicy, envoûtant: just envelop yourself in this potent elixir. A little goes a long way, it always garners compliments and folks lean into that embrace. Add to this the delicious tale of our first personal encounter: we walked into an old tobacco store on Massachusetts Avenue in Harvard Square and ordered ourselves a pack (we knew they were soon to be outlawed) and a roll of Choward’s violet mints. We sat beneath a tree in Harvard Yard (the ground was really damp), smoked Kreteks and talked for hours (for the record, I don’t even smoke!). It’s that sort of intimacy this perfume provides, and your lungs will thank you for it while you enjoy decadence without consequence…Notes: clove bud, cinnamon, cardamom, tobacco leaf, amber, sandalwood, incense

photo courtesy of ava-luxe.com

On to Royal Parvati, regent of regal creamy sandalwoods. his singular perfume is complex and suavely blended; every time I anoint myself, I wonder why I don’t wear it more often – and that’s the truth of it. It incorporates both sacred and sensual elements. Here is a perfume you may easily wear for yourself alone: soothing before slumber, marvelous for meditation, and furtively animalic in the throes of carnality.  Oh, yes – it’s all in that tiny flacon. Hard to fathom, but it is an unsung gem which, properly stored – weathers the years beautifully. I possess some newer bottles along with ones which are much older, and both are divine. If you crave a shrieking fragrance, this won’t fill the bill: subtlety is among its many virtues, but it lasts. For a rousing spritz, I suggest the edp; it’s a joy to layer that over either perfume oil or extrait – and pricepoint is excellent (5 mls.of perfume oil – $35; 5 mls.of parfum extrait – $38; 15 mls. of edp – &45). The perfumes alone will serve one for a very long time. Notes: cypress leaf, rosewood, Caledonian sandalwood, Parvati sandalwood, cabreuva wood, Peruvian balsam, orris root, ambergris

Ava Luxe Green Tara courtesy of ava-luxe.com

Green Tara has been the subject of discussion before on ÇaFleureBon. Years ago, I sent some to our Associate Contributor Sandi Lundberg, who joined the Green Tara Fan Club – along with a certain musical lady on Martha’s Vineyard (I gave her lovely daughter Kama when we first met) who was ailing at the time. She continues to enjoy it in good health. What’s not to love? This fragrance is woody, spicy, floral, green/herbal, earthy, even amber-y.

Green Tara painting via wikipedia

It is ever-so-resinous, base-heavy yet lifted by lemon, bergamot, lemongrass, piquant black pepper. Incomparable sandalwood is caressed by the merest suggestion of oud and frankincense, daubed with the sable brush of fine vetiver, just enough patchouli, and the rich leatheriness of labdanum and benzoin. Florals in the form of geranium, Moroccan rose and Spanish lavender float among all these elements with such grace. One can wear this anywhere, it’s so versatile – and Green Tara’s longevity is tenacious.It’s heavenly at bedtime: but so are each of these choices.  You cannot go amiss. Notes: sacred sandalwood, oude wood, vetiver, patchouli, deep amber, labdanum, benzoin Siam, Moroccan rose, rose musk, Spanish lavender, frankincense, lemongrass, Italian lemon, bergamot, geranium, Chinese peppercorn

Disclosure: All the perfumes are from my own personal collection. My nose is my own…

~ Ida Meister, Senior Editor

~ Art Direction: Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief

Royal Parvati, Tabak Kretek, and Green Tara photo courtesy of Serena

Thanks to the generosity of Ava Luxe Perfumes and Serena Ava Goode, we have a draw for ALL three 5 ml. flacons of the parfum extraits for a  registered reader anywhere in the U.S. Please be sure to register. To be eligible please let us know what appeals to you about Ida’s reviews, which appeals to you,  and if you are familiar with Ava Luxe Perfumes. Draw closes 10/23/2017

We announce the winners only on our site and on our Facebook page, so like Cafleurebon and use our RSS feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

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21 comments

  • hausfrauhouse says:

    I always love Ida’s reviews. She’s such a wordsmith! I absolutely adore everything about this draw- Ida, the warm and generous woman who paints such lovely snapshots of her life, even the not fun bits, because she’s able to see the beauty in everything. Then we have Serena, whose perfumes I will never be without. Love’s True Bluish Light is an utter masterpiece. I layer Milk with many perfumes to “fix” them haha! I’ve not tried any of these but oh, clove cigarettes! I have always had asthma so I never smoked (a blessing, truly), but I recall being so enamored with the fragrance of clove cigarettes that my friends all smoked. We were all just painfully cool… until they smoked. They lit up, and I would inhale deeply because they were so beautifully scented… and then I’d have to bust out my inhaler. Painfully cool. Like I said. HA!

  • Thank you so much ida for writing about the wonderful Ava Lux perfumes. Not a lot of chat about them, and that’s such a shame since they’re so fabulous and special. Green Tara is one of my go-to comfort scents, and Kratek takes me right back to my high school days! Wonderful reviews!!

  • BethMongold says:

    Beautiful reviews. I am a huge fan of perfume at bedtime, although my husband is not so much. I have wanted to try Ava Luxe perfumes for a while–especially Green Tara! Although now I am intrigued by Kretek. I definitely smoked more than a few cloves in my younger days…

  • GrandmaGaga says:

    Although I have not had opportunity to try any Ava Luxe perfumes, this beautifully written review lures me to try them, especially as Ida describes them as aging well and being long-wearing with just a bit. Royal Pavarti appeals to me most but they all sound fabulous. I am in the US.

  • I loved the image of the imagery of the tobacco shop in Harvard Square and smoking the clove cigarette and chatting. I haven’t been to Harvard square since 1995!! Made me want to go back and visit and old tobacco shop….and I don’t even smoke. All three sound fabulous, nice to not have to choose a favorite for this draw. I am not familiar with the brand, of course….many thanks for always informing us of the small indie perfumers. I find for the most part the smaller houses have better offerings, maybe they are spending more on what is inside the bottle rather than on advertising. Thanks Ida, you must really enjoy your work. How fortunate you are (and us as well).

  • I alwais like Ida Meister’s nice and honest style of decription of her impressions from perfume. After reading this review I whant to test all Ava Luxe perfumes a fortiori I like woods so much. But more I am interested in Kratek- woods, tabac, incense- warm, smoky, spicy!!!
    Unfortunatly I’ve never tested any Ava Luxe perfumes.
    USA, DE

  • I love how Ida paints the moments connected to each fragrance and the thoroughness in guiding not only on the fragrance itself but also on the different renditions. I had the chance to try Honey which I love. Would love to try Green Tara.

  • EVERYTHING about this review appeals to me as I have been fascinated by Ava Luxe for a very long time and would love to try any and all of her creations! If I were so fortunate to win this draw I would gladly accept any as they all sound delightful. And I love Ida’s way with words!!! I am in the USA.

  • I have been learning about perfumes by testing and reading various websites and blogs.I came upon Cafleurebon by chance and have enjoyed Ida’s heartfelt reviews, especially that she writes about scents in her personal collection. This is how I came to know AvaLuxe and have enjoyed many scents based on her reviews such as Green Tara, Ambra Tibet and others.I love AvaLuxe perfume in the extrait formulation.I would love to try Tabak Kretek .

  • Been reading about Ava Luxe forever, quite a wonderful reputation by all accounts. (Esp. Love’s True Bluish Light, how tantalizing the reviews) The three Ida describes seem to fall into the autumn/winter spectrum of wear for me. I’d be comparing Tabak Kretek to Tabac Blonde (Caron) or Habanita. Green Tara also sounds lovely, grounding, a cold weather comfort scent to be sure.

  • I read with interest the review of Royal Parvati. The mix of sensual and sacred is intriguing… a fragrance that can be worn during meditation and then more carnal pursuits. It sounds like my life. I also love unsung gems. I have never tried anything from this line, but I’d love to try all three of these samples. I live in the USA.

  • Ava Luxe Perfumes have an eternal spot on my night stand… I still get so much comfort from The Green Tara, Ida.. Gratitude flows to you for your thoughts and actions during a difficult time for me. These lil gems got me through and continue to do so. Royal Parvati sounds like just what my soul needs right now. For those who have never tried Ava Luxe Perfumes I urge you to give them a go… you will not be disappointed.

  • The start of Fall and Winter always has me craving new warm and cozy scents to seek out. From the review, these sound like they would fit wonderfully. All three sound dark and delicious. I can relate to the clove cigarettes story … I also was known to smoke Indonesian clove cigarettes for a short time in college, although my lungs were not happy about it. The one that speaks to me the most is Tabak Kretek. Would love to win! Thank you! I am in the USA.

  • What a wonderful review! I am not familiar with this perfume house. But each of the scents sound beautiful. And I’m looking to add something interesting to my perfume collection now that the weather is getting cooler. I love the notes of Ava Luxe Green Tara and would love to try it.
    I live in the U.S.

  • RoseMacaroon says:

    Oh such yummy reviews… I think I’m most enamoured of descriptionsome of this type of fragrance, where the focus is on perfume notes found in nature and effects that are both very calming/meditative and also qi-boosting/empowering. Of course it’s evident when the reviewer’so sensibilities are appreciative of these qualities! You can always see the difference, as on fragrantica when really lovely, quieter perfumes of natural-ish composition get ‘meh’ed as flat, simple, too-subtle, boring, etc., and being that I’m more into perfume for its esoteric capabilities of qi-enhancement and energetic potency, this is the kind of review that gratified my need for communion with the like-minded. So enjoyed this, and am eager to try all of these, and check out other offerings by this line. I’m in the US.
    Many thanks!

  • girasole638 says:

    Ida’s reviews here are so evocative – and I love the personal stories she shared. Royal Parvati sounds the most appealing to me at the moment – I’ve been looking for a soothing sandalwood – though the other two sound incredibly craveable as well (and the notes for Tabak Kretek are divine!). I’ve tried a few Ava Luxe scents, mostly gourmands (something about gourmand scents in oil concentration always appeals), and Milk is one of my all-time favorites. It’s definitely the best milk scent out there – and I’ve tried many! Thanks for the reviews and the draw. I’m in the US

  • Ida has always done a good job with reviews. I haven’t heard of this House. Would like to get a chance to try these. Thanks for the giveaway
    US

  • Ida’s reviews make me feel as though I’m experiencing the lovely creations that she’s sampling right along with her. She articulates the beauty that usually tongue-ties me. I’m also a big Ava Luxe fan; I’ve never sampled these new Ava Luxe perfumes. Among my current rotation are Rasa, Kama, Midnight Violet, Mousse de Chene, Madame X and Pearl Musk.

  • As always, this is a beautiful review. I can feel the fragrance from the written word and that is very often not possible. I’ve not sampled these Ava Luxe oils, but I have sampled one or two others and they are jewels. I would love to try these. Thanks you so much for the draw. I live in the USA

  • I have heard of this brand for many years but somehow it has escaped my mad sampling habit. Ida makes these sound like meditative elixirs to bring peace and joy. It is nice to know some of her favorites. I would love to try these. Thanks for the review and the draw. USA

  • Parvati and Tara are names of Goddesses. They define femininity, beauty, grace and power. The images really depict the mood and descriptions of the perfumes.
    Thanks for the draw.

    In US.