We have called Mandy Aftel the Queen of Green, but she is much more than a botanical perfumer. She is one of our country’s most talented olfactive artists, and has been the inspiration for an entire generation of perfumers from all over the world. In addition, her best selling books including Essence and Alchemy should be on the bookshelf of every perfumista. Her unique multi textured creations weave scented stories that speak on the skin. Although I have only recently started exploring Ms. Aftels’ body of work, the fragrance that continues to haunt me is Aftelier Perfumes Tango, created in 2006.
Juarez Machado Tango hall
Seven years ago Mandy told Editor-in-Chief Michelyn Camen that Tango was one of the most complex compositions she has created. Tango can be indescribable as a reviewer because of all the emotions it stirs…lust, sadness, longing, sorrow and passion. It morphs from the scents of a dimly lit dancehall in Buenos Aries to the mournful strummings of a Spanish Guitarist unfolding into a bold and sensual struggle that is both earthy and elegant.
painting by Juarez Machado
Tango unites unlikely partners, and joins them in a dance that is primal and moving, stripping away all labels and laying bare the soul. Coming together to the tempo is wild sweet orange and a hint of ginger, moving deftly and directly at the top. Just as the opening chords of the tango are unmistakable and exciting, this fragrance glows with the underlying warmth and embraces you firmly. As the passion builds and the dancers get closer and more intimate, champaca flower defines the woman in all her beauty and mystery. As he holds her close, she rebels against his earthy masculinity and strength; she matches each of his step with her own. Just as the Tango dancers, grasp, spin and release each other, so do these notes and the intensity only builds from here. After the rousing opening and erotic pulsations of its heart, Tango finishes with an amazing combination of olfactory moves using roast seashells (choya nahk), blond tobacco and tonka bean to portray salty tears, smoke and naked skin.
Memories of aged wood, lingering sweat and smoke simultaneously haunt and confront. Though the the song remains unchanged, the combination of movements between dancers are infinite and each successive wearing has lead to different but always unforgettable fragrant experiences. Sillage: above average. Longevity: very good.
Notes: wild sweet orange, fresh ginger root, CO2 coffee extraction, champaca, choya nahk, blond tobacco and tonka.
Disclosure: Review based on a sample sent to me by Aftelier Perfumes.
-John Reasinger, Senior Editor and Natural Perfume Editor
If you would like to experience this 100% natural fragrant dance, we have a .4 ml sample of Tango parfum to give away to one reader anywhere in the world, courtesy of Aftelier Perfumes. To be eligible, please leave a comment with your favorite Aftelier perfume (or one you are dying to try) and if you could dance the tango with anyone, whom would you choose? Draw will close on March 23, 2014.
Art Direction: Michelyn Camen