Xerjoff Casamorati 1888, photo by The Perfumed Dahlia
Casamorati is a collection of fragrances within the Xerjoff brands all inspired by classical Italian perfumery. Founded by Claudio Casamorati in19th century Italy, Casamorati received numerous awards in its day, but due to a financial crisis in the mid-twentieth century, its perfumes disappeared from the market. To recreate and safeguard this component of Italy’s glamorous heritage, Xerjoff founder Sergio Momo decided to bring Casamorati back.
Old Casamorati ad, photo from the Casamorati website
Each fragrance in the Casamorati line is represented using a different colored glass, with the dusky root beer color of Xerjoff Casamorati 1888 serving as a nod to the brand’s vintage. The Casamorati bottle shape is suggestive of an old Roman column, an homage to the brand’s classical Italian heritage that also happens to nestle perfectly into the curve of a hand. In late 2009, Xerjoff combined art with technology to restructure the Art Nouveau-style Casamorati packaging to continue to protect and preserve the fragrances, but with a minimal impact on future recycling.
Queen Margherita statue, photo by photosforyou via Pixabay
The late 19th century was the time of the Second Industrial Revolution. It was also the Gilded Age in the United States, the Victorian Era in the UK, as well as the period of Italy’s unification. As western powers were dividing and colonizing Africa, Italian nationalists and imperialists were similarly looking rebuild a Roman Empire, establishing Eritrea as a colony around the time the brand debuted. Nationalist Queen Margherita of Italy loved Casamorati so much that she gave founder Claudio Casamorati her gold pin. She was a woman who attracted a circle of conservative intellectuals and artists to her famous literary salon—one of the most exclusive and famous in Europe at the time. According to legend, the Margherita pizza was named after her in 1889.
Sandalwood fan, photo by Workshop Weddings via Pixaby
Representing its namesake year, Xerjoff Casamorati 1888 starts out spicy and resinous, suggestive of the sumptuous and tantalizing cargo that might have been transported on barque ships and steam trains of the late 19th century. Spices including coriander, clove, and saffron blend with sweet amber and bright ylang-ylang. Next, an almost honeyed floral surfaces—but rather than a distinct neroli or rose, the floral notes together deliver a broader effect of sun-ripened nectar. As the yellow sweetness merges with the spices and amber, it’s the sandalwood that emerges as the star of this fragrance. This sandalwood is reminiscent of an artfully carved box or fan, softly perfuming a room or wafting scented air across your face. Over time, Xerjoff Casmomarti 1888 settles into a light, long-lasting sandalwood and amber pairing that carries a soft sense of root beer. It is timeless and gender fluid—a delight to overspray because it is in no way overwhelming, but also not too light as to be a skin scent.
Notes: Coriander, Cloves, Green Pepper, Iranian Safran, Rose from Grasse, Moroccan Neroli, Indonesian Ylang-Ylang, Mysore Sandalwood, Patchouly, Amber, Russian Birch Tree.
Disclaimer: A tester of Xerjoff Casmomarti 1888 was generously provided for this review by Eden Square, the US distributors of Casamorati. My opinions are my own.
Dalya Azaria, Senior Contributor
Xerjoff Casamorati 1888, photo by The Perfumed Dahlia
Thanks to the generosity of Eden Square, the US Distributors of Casamorati we have a 100 ml tester bottle of Xerjoff Casamorati 1888 for one registered reader in the USA only. You must register or your comment will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what appeals to you about Xerjoff Casamorati 1888 based on Dalya’s review and whether you have a favorite Xerjoff Casamorati fragrance. Draw closes 5/15/2021
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