Voyages Imaginaires perfumes –photos by Voyages Imaginaires, edited by Emmanuelle

The launch of a new Maison is always great news for any perfume lover. And, in 2021, when even scheduling any visit is a challenge, I was fortunate to meet with perfumer Isabelle Doyen and Creative Director Camille Goutal in their labo. These women are legendary as the team behind Annick Goutal Parfums. Instead of resting on their laurels, after three years of hard work (a little shaken up by the pandemic and the logistical delays inherent in such a situation) Isabelle Doyen and Camille Goutal bring us Voyages Imaginaires (Imaginary Journeys), a collection of five beautiful natural perfumes launched late last year that conjure sensations, dreams and travel.

 

 

Voyages Imaginaires motto: a quote from Gustave Flaubert’s poem “The temptation of Saint-Anthony “- edited by Emmanuelle

Voyages Imaginaires is 100% committed to being “green”,  to sustainability and  to respecting the environment in  all the perfume compositions, and in everything that goes with them (bottles, packaging, leaflets, etc.).  Of course, the choice of exclusively natural raw materials inevitably, reduced the perfumer’s palette, “ Unfortunately, you have to do without woods, or even ambroxan, musk, hedione”, Isabelle Doyen told me,  “Research has move along a lot concerning natural molecules. But today, a synthetic coumarin is 300 times cheaper than its natural equivalent”, she adds. This choice to go natural is not a dismissal of formulations with synthetic notes, rather it is the philosophy of a new perfumery, more responsible, and out of necessity  more complex to formulate.  Only organic wheat alcohol is used accompanied by exclusively natural raw materials.  Voyages Imaginaires will resonate with perfume lovers and consumers who are showing increased interest in natural products.  While the sillage may not always be as intense as in so-called “classic” perfumes, the notes develop, evolve, grow stronger and then soften- they simply reveal themselves on the skin.  As Camille Goutal told me: “You have to stop believing that a good perfume lasts for a long time“.

 

Isabelle Doyen  and Camille Goutal  “Magic” perfume organ – photo by Emmanuelle

For Voyages Imaginaires, escape is at the heart of each composition.  Creating a new scentscape built on their vision of raw materials, memories, or photos created by Camille Goutal (before taking over the the perfume house created by her mother Annick, Camille was a photographer). She has of course remained so, and never stopped immortalizing the splendours that Nature offers to her eyes. Was it a photo that led to the choice of raw materials or the opposite? “We wanted an orange blossom perfume. Between this desire and the photo, there were plenty of possible entry points. There has never been a process. Just a common reflection,” says Camille Goutal. Isabelle Doyen adds, “Camille and I have been connected since the start of our collaboration. We have similar and compatible muses “. Camille nods, “We have my mother in common. As a child, I could smell all the perfumes tests, as the laboratory was at home. But my universe, rather rock’n roll, is more that of Isabelle. My mother was classic and sophisticated. But we have in common the desire to offer beauty and to make people happy.“

 

Isabelle Doyen and Camille Goutal, photo by Elodie Daguin

The bottle is a true work of art, in which Camille Goutal has  invested much of her own sensibility. Faceted and elegant, it is designed to be kept as a collector’s item. The label at first look may seem understated, but is in fact double-sided. By turning the bottle, the photo linked to the perfume appears in transparency, as if by magic. This timeless elegance is “broken” with the raw look of the cap. “I have a true passion for metal, especially brushed metal “, admits Camille. “At first I thought a round cap would be fine, but that made it too classic. Then came the idea of ​​a bolt, while strolling through a Parisian department store, known to be a real treasure for DIY enthusiasts.”  Everything is hand made; even the labels are glued on manually. Respect for the environment does not stop there: reusable packaging boxes, water-based ink, biodegradable cellophane, and organic cotton pouches.

An example of Voyages Imaginaires double sided label bottle – photos by Voyages Imaginaires, edited by Emmanuelle

 For these five creations, Camille and Isabelle had specific goals and ideas. All raw materials materials and “Imaginary journeys” are linked to Camille Goutal’s photography.

 

Voyages Imaginaires Tea and rock’n roll – photo by Camille Goutal

 Voyages Imaginaires Tea And Rock ‘n Roll takes us to England during the1960’s, psychedelic but still elegant. Those who would party all night long but wouldn’t go to bed until they’ve had a cup of tea. The perfume opens with bergamot, of course, but with a slightly leathery, even spicy roundness on the skin. On seeing the photo, I immediately thought of Austin Powers movies (Look carefully,  it’s actually Isabelle Doyen posing!). I would personally associate this perfume with the seductive singer Brian Ferry. Notes: Bergamot, mate tea, tonka bean.

 

Voyages Imaginaires Azahar photo by Camille Goutal

 Voyages Imaginaires Azahar (which means orange tree in Spanish-Arabic) transports us to Morocco, more precisely to Marrakech. Orange blossom is  presented as extremely gourmand, carnal, and recalls the delicious pastries found in the city, but with a little touch of freshness you get on summer evenings, after a hot and very sunny day. Notes: Orange blossom, petitgrain, tangerine, vanilla.

 Voyages Imaginaires L’échappée sauvage – photo by Camille Goutal

 Voyages Imaginaires L’échappée Sauvage evokes a Mediterranean island. It’s a fragrance that features fig, but without its usual milky side. Here, it is woody and fresh, almost  salty, sensual and very summery. You can easily imagine yourself walking in the middle of a dense and wild pine forest. Notes: Fig, bergamot, lemon, cedar wood, gaïac wood, tonka bean, pink peppercorns.

 

Voyages Imaginaires La couleur de la nuit – photo by Camille Goutal

 La Couleur De La Nuit is accompanied by a sublime photo of a blood red sky. A nocturnal light, evocative of Asia, especially the elegant and enigmatic universe of Hong Kong filmmaker Wong Kar-wai movies. Extremely bewitching, it plays between freshness and sensuality, like a secret meeting between a man and a woman who would mix their perfume in a shy kiss. This initially oriental lavender scent smoothes over the minutes, giving way to an amber patchouli, vanilla with some resinous hints. Notes: Lavender, geranium, vanilla, fir balsam, patchouli.

 

   Voyages Imaginaires Le grand jeu – photo by Camille Goutal

 All four of the previous creations made a lasting impression on me by the quality of the raw materials used and their evolution on my skin.  Voyages Imaginaires Le grand jeu attracted me the most on paper, as I am a great lover of the tuberose. Camille and Isabelle chose the photo of a white sand beach with footprints which, we can guess, is warm and soft at the same time.  I imagine, wet feet, bodies warmed by the sun and I thought of Ursula Andress in James Bond Dr. No. Here, the tuberose is extremely milky, warm and sensual. It envelops the skin in its carnal notes, sharpened by the gardenia which calms its wild side while amplifying its ultra feminine character. Vanilla coats everything, like a gourmet sweetness that you could lick with your fingers. A fragrance that smells summer, with the lightness of the senses that accompanies this season. A real skin fragrance, arguably the most carnal of the five. If I do not venture to compare myself to the beautiful Ursula, I certainly imagine myself as a naiad on a desert island, far from noise, pollution and winter grayness. A true “Voyage Imaginaire”. Notes: Gardenia, tuberose, vanilla

 

Isabelle Doyen with Michelyn In Milan 2017

I wanted to end my journal and thoughts on a more personal note. First, I would like to thank CaFleureBon Editor-in-Chief Michelyn Camen for giving me the opportunity to meet Isabelle Doyen and Camille Goutal and for editing skills.  It also allowed me to meet Isabelle Doyen,  the composer of my favorite perfume (Nuit de Bakélite, Naomi Goodsir), an icon in French perfumery, and Camille Goutal, daughter of Annick Goutal,  legend of niche perfumery, stepdaughter of Alain Meunier, a famous French cellist (my father was himself a professional cellist). These connections  gave this meeting a very strong emotional dimension, which I wanted to share with you. Visits are rare in their workshop located in the heart of Paris, especially during this Covid-19 time; these two hours spent together were a rare gift. I thank them from the bottom of my heart. 

-Emmanuelle Varron, Senior Contributor

With contributions from Michelyn Camen, Editor-In-Chief- Voyages Imaginaires was Editor Ermano Picco’s choice for “ÇaFleureBon Best Buzz of 2020”

Thanks to the generosity of Camille Goutal and Isabelle Doyen, two registered readers in the USA, Canada and Europe are eligible for a discovery set of all 5 Voyages Imaginaires perfumes. Please leave a comment with what you thought of Emmanuelle’s meeting with Camille Goutal and Isabelle Doyen and which Voyages Imaginaires perfume(s) speaks to you the most. Draw closes 1/23/2021

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