Vintage Balmain Jolie Madame Review (Germaine Cellier) 1953+ Unicorn Perfume Draw

Vintage 1953 Balmain Jolie Madame

1953 Rene Gruau poster for Balmain Jolie Madame 

 

Ah, for the day when dames were dames. Balmain Jolie Madame days.

We get packages from home,

We get movies, we get shows,

We get speeches from our skipper

And advice from Tokyo Rose,

We get letters doused with perfume

We get dizzy from the smell!

What don’t we get?

We know damn well!

Lots of things in life are beautiful, but brother,

There is one particular thing that is nothin’ whatsoever

In any way, shape or form like any other – There is nothin’ like a dame,

Nothin’ in the world,

There is nothin’ you can name

That is anything like a dame!” ~ from Richard Rogers and Oscar Hammerstein‘s musical South Pacific, April 7, 1949. In 1950, their adaptation of James A. Michener’s Tales of the South Pacific won the Pulitzer Prize for Drama.

best scenes from the movie south pacific

South Pacific, 1958

It doesn’t take a crew of lovelorn sailors marooned in the tropics to convince me: present me with a perfume created for a real Dame, and I’m game. That said, it would suit any soul possessed of similar grit, wit, cojones and unflinching panache. Dames have character. They light up the screens of film noir with each appearance. A Dame is not a Broad. I have been thrilled to be a Dame all my life – and vintage Balmain Jolie Madame is My Sort of Dame.

Germaine Cellier composed Balmain Jolie Madame

Germaine Cellier via wikipedia

By all accounts, maverick (genius) perfumer Germaine Cellier was patently not an easy personality with whom to work – and her bold style of perfumery flew in the face of composition conventions of the day. While it is fact that she created several beautifully balanced fragrances with which few today might be familiar, it is her brazenly elegant ‘overdosage’ perfumes for which she is most frequently remembered: Fracas and Bandit for Robert Piguet; Miss Balmain and original Vent Vert for Balmain. Strictly speaking, Balmain Jolie Madame falls outside the overdose category as I perceive it: no overwhelming tuberose, no galbanum monster façade or whip-cracking beastly arid leather; no glorious floral ashtray sequestered in the folds of mother’s best purse. It is, instead – pure seduction underpinned with peril, potent floral dramatis personae initially tempered with herbal spice, only to reveal the sizzling, smoky cabaret-boîte underbelly lurking beneath. Cellier has strategized it so that there is equilibrium…but it is born of a dark, seething ambiguous sensuality. Despite its creation in 1953, post WW II, we have been transported to peri-war Berlin and Christopher Isherwood’s delicious Berlin Stories, dramatist Bertolt Brecht and composer Kurt Weill. Decadence is the order of the day.

Vintage Balmain Jolie Madame by Germaine Cellier

Alan Cummings in Cabaret 1998, 1972 Joel Grey and Liza Minelli, Rene Gruau poster for Jolie Madame 1965, The Portrait of the Dancer Anita Berber Otto Dix, 1925  Collage

Balmain Jolie Madame ensnares you by razzle-dazzling you: bergamot and neroli sparkle energetically, then, whoosh! A flood of gardenia, jasmine and tuberose is unleashed with indolic fanfare. The gorgeous quirkiness of artemisia and coriander give these heavy-hitters a savvy nudge as an entourage of rose, orris and jonquil surround them. At this juncture, you’re feeling elated; it’s intoxicating and overtly flirtatious (not coquettish). These florals are dizzying. It’s feasible that a ladylike ‘50s woman (well-coiffed and dressed with gloves, matching handbag and heels) is trailing this marvelous fragrance in her wake – or so you’re led to believe. Just you wait: layer upon layer of scented subterfuge awaits in the wings, swathes of earthy patchouli and oakmoss, smoky vetiver and castoreum, civet, leathery tones. Not to neglect the glorious musks of yore which weaken the knees. It may be Paris, or Manhattan, or Kansas City, for that matter – but we’re in Berlin, and the magnificent creature wielding this insinuating perfume could be anyone at all. There’s anonymity in the crowded subterranean cabaret and it’s hard to tell who’s who amongst the smoke and dark jazz riffs. Be it Berlin today or Berlin years ago, it doesn’t matter. And if that creature is a Dame, it might well be me.

Notes: gardenia, artemisia, bergamot, coriander, nerolijasmine, tuberoseroseorris, jonquil, patchoulioakmossvetivermusk, castoreumleathercivet

Vintage Jolie Madame from my personal collection. My nose is my own…

~ Ida Meister, Deputy Editor and Natural Perfumery Editor

Balmain Jolie Madame 1953 by Germaine Cellier review

photo of Ida’s collection of Jolie Madame

I firmly believe that classics are to be shared, both from an historical perspective and the opportunity to disseminate pleasure. In that spirit, I am offering a small decant of pure vintage Balmain Jolie Madame parfum (circa 1960) to one registered reader anywhere in the world. Please be sure to register. To be eligible please let us know what appeals to you about Ida’s review of  Balmain Jolie Madame and where you live. Draw closes 5/20/2021

Follow us on Instagram: @cafleurebon @idameister

To learn more about Germaine Cellier, please read our perfume signature article here and Sr. Contributor Marianne Butler’s ‘Herstory”- Three Millennia of Female Perfumers here

This is our Privacy and Draw Rules Policy.

We announce the winners on our site and on our Facebook page, so like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option … or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

− 3 = 1

36 comments

  • I love the picture of a classic women in her pumps going the the nightclub and getting tipsy on jazz. At the end of the night her red lipstick is still perfect. A real women’s perfume, not for an innocent teenager. How delightful! Thank you for the chance to smell. Usa

  • Well I am not as eloquent as Ida, but the idea of Berlin in the not so distant past, with jazz, and intrigue puts a little swagger in my step. I would love to sample this. Thank you for the chance to win. In the USA.

  • Wow, what an unexpected perfume reviewed today. Never tried this work by Germaine Cellier. Curious to see, how the classical dizzying combination of the white flowers manages to stay in a not-an-overdose zone.

    Thanks for giveaway and greetings from Switzerland

  • Ida’s review creates a perfect image of a Dame in prewar Berlin, with her elegant style and aura of mature, elegant perfume around her. Balmain Jolie Madame seems to have all the heavy hitter notes to make it a fabulous perfume. Thanks Ida for a lovely review and a generous draw. Writing from the USA.

  • Christin "Chris" Walsh says:

    Just love the photo of Ms. Cellier, looking skyward as she sniffs the paper strips that render her a la Edward Scissorshands.

    This IS indeed a Unicorn Perfume.

    Fingers crossed…

  • Oh my gosh – would love to smell Jolie Madame, for the sheer curiosity and in order to be able to appreciate a real piece of perfume history (HERstory)! Such beautiful descriptions Ida, enjoyed reading about Germaine Cellier.
    Thank you from Canada.

  • Ohhhh the poster is beautiful! and omigoshhh the original Vent Vert! Surely the ideals of what is beyond my reach appeals to me — as well as the artemisia, coriander, and smoky green leathery foundations underneath the florals.

    Would a silver of present-day Berlin be found anywhere in this concoction? How much of that present-day Berlin that I have experienced be influenced by the era that Balmain Jolie Madame represents? Hmmmm

    I’m based in Thailand!

  • i love jolie madam as well and have it in several incarnations (old and new — they are all really good, yes, even the reformulated one in the squared bottle.) however, to me the most prominent note is violet — and i don’t even *like* violet. here, though, it is absolutely marvelous, bedded down as it is on leather, civet and oakmoss, smoking a cigarette while inhaling a bouquet of fleshy flowers.

    not participating in the draw since i have my own bottles of extrait — and will wear some tomorrow in honor of ida’s lovely piece.

  • addendum: it’s the ^tall^ squared bottle that is reformulated, not the cube-over-edge bottle of vintage extrait.

  • Julesinrose says:

    Ida, you ALWAYS draw me in so thoroughly to whatever scent you write about. I have problems wearing powerhouse indolic scents, but I sure would be willing to give it a go, especially as I’m a fan of Isherwood, Brecht, and Weil and you paint one amazing portrait of this fragrance. In Maine, USA

  • Ida’s references to the Berlin society in the 40’s, with its decadent lifestyle, dark glamour and audacious statements really got me. I wouldn’t have necessarily liked to live those times, but I would be happy to “sniff” them through Jolie Madame, a fragrance I have heard about often, but never got to smell, to close my eyes and perceive this perilous, subdued yet imminent seduction.
    I’m in Europe, thanks Ida for being so generous to share a decant of such a precious perfume with us.

  • I would absolutely treasure this decant. It’s so hard to track down vintages. Jolie Madam I would savour and read with the Berlin stories for full immersion. I am in U.K.

  • I loved the women in perfume article and Tis review of Jolie madame it’s a great accompaniment. I liked Ida’s comment about Jolie madame being pure seduction with a bit of peril. I don’t have any firsthand experience with the original version of the perfume.
    I’m in Slovenia

  • Nom de Guerre says:

    The balance in things sounds alluring. Thank you for sharing and giving us the opportunity to sense what this classic feels like. All the best!

  • Balmain Jolie Madame ensnares you by razzle-dazzling you: bergamot and neroli sparkle energetically, then, whoosh! A flood of gardenia, jasmine and tuberose is unleashed with indolic fanfare. The gorgeous quirkiness of artemisia and coriander give these heavy-hitters a savvy nudge as an entourage of rose, orris and jonquil surround them. At this juncture, you’re feeling elated; it’s intoxicating and overtly flirtatious (not coquettish). These florals are dizzying. It’s feasible that a ladylike ‘50s woman (well-coiffed and dressed with gloves, matching handbag and heels) is trailing this marvelous fragrance in her wake – or so you’re led to believe. Just you wait: layer upon layer of scented subterfuge awaits in the wings, swathes of earthy patchouli and oakmoss, smoky vetiver and castoreum, civet, leathery tones. Not to neglect the glorious musks of yore which weaken the knees. It may be Paris, or Manhattan, or Kansas City, for that matter – but we’re in Berlin, and the magnificent creature wielding this insinuating perfume could be anyone at all. There’s anonymity in the crowded subterranean cabaret and it’s hard to tell who’s who amongst the smoke and dark jazz riffs. Be it Berlin today or Berlin years ago, it doesn’t matter. And if that creature is a Dame, it might well be me.

    Notes: gardenia, artemisia, bergamot, coriander, neroli, jasmine, tuberose, rose, orris, jonquil, patchou. A beautiful description Ida I am intrigued by the notes especially Patchouli, jasmine, rose and coriander. Thanks a million from the UK

  • Just you wait: layer upon layer of scented subterfuge awaits in the wings, swathes of earthy patchouli and oakmoss, smoky vetiver and castoreum, civet, leathery tones. Not to neglect the glorious musks of yore which weaken the knees. It may be Paris, or Manhattan, or Kansas City, for that matter – but we’re in Berlin, and the magnificent creature wielding this insinuating perfume could be anyone at all. There’s anonymity in the crowded subterranean cabaret and it’s hard to tell who’s who amongst the smoke and dark jazz riffs. Be it Berlin today or Berlin years ago, it doesn’t matter. And if that creature is a Dame, it might well be me.

    Notes: gardenia, artemisia, bergamot, coriander, neroli, jasmine, tuberose, rose, orris, jonquil, patchouli. This seems like a dark and dangerous fragrance I love the notes especially Patchouli, jasmine, rose and musk. Thanks a lot from the UK

  • Like the fact that this is for a real dame. You special lady would love a fragrance that razzle dazzle, elates, and has a quirkiness about it.

    USA

  • Queen Cupcake says:

    Ida has pulled together so much that I love about Cellier’s creations. Truly, though, the “dark, seething ambiguous sensuality” hits the nail on the head for me about Jolie Madame. My older sister gave me the edt for my 15th birthday! Can’t imagine why she would have chosen this perfume for a teen but I’m so glad she did. I live in the USA.

  • Courtenay Courier says:

    I’m a sucker for classic movies and a dame has character! This review felt nostalgic and precise. Canada.

  • I have a weakness for vintage perfumes and I’m interested the work of women who were able to succeed in male dominated professions. Germaine Cellier sounds like a bad@ss lady. I live in Virginia, USA

  • vickalicious says:

    Not entering the draw, but wanted to say that this was a pleasure to read, and I love all the photos and artwork shown!

  • Fragrance Capital says:

    Ida, your review is sending me away to the fragrance you write about. I really enjoyed your presentation about Jolie Madame, so I would love to try it, especially as I’m a fan of earthy patchouli and oakmoss and you did paint an amazing portrait by these notes in this fragrance. Greetings from BiH

  • Everything about this is calling my name. The images, the notes… And any time I’ve tried one of these big, bold vintage glamourpuss scents, they thrill me. That being said, I haven’t tried anywhere near as many of them as I’d like!
    (USA)

  • As much as I like fragrances, I love their stories. The vintage fragrance have this amazing feature of having truly meaningful story behind every creation. I love how reading about them transports me in the scene of the creation, making me feel and understand what the creators intended. I’m currently in Romania

  • Valentina says:

    not only a madame, but a jolie one. oh, how I would wish… I live in Romania

  • I always love reading reviews of vintage perfumes, especially the vintage batches. The beauty in vintage perfumes is that every person experiences them differently, and Ida’s experience with it it’s unique to what I’ve been reading from other reviews of the perfume. I would love to try out a couple of wearings of this leathery beauty! I live in Croatia, EU.

  • wandering_nose says:

    It was fantastic to learn more about Germaine Cellier, she appears to have been a unique and uncompromising personality. And thank you Ida for this amazing description and for your generosity and willingness to share the beauty of classics! Locating the mysterious, bold, seductive and flirtatious Dame in Berlin underground cabaret/ jazz club makes me feel I am sold on the vintage Jolie Madame. I would be delighted to try it. Thank you from Ireland, EU

  • I really like the time capsule aspect of this piece. Just to have the ability to be transported sixty years in the past is priceless. Very generous.

    Thanks for he draw. I am in Canada

  • Wow! I had never heard of this particular scent and now I am dying to try it. I do love Fracas and Bandit. This sounds wildly different, made by such a genius perfumer, and based on this review it must be great! It is so generous to offer this! I am in the US

  • wallygator88 says:

    Thank you for the beautiful review of Balmain Jolie Madame Ida. Your reviews have a certain signature and it is easy for me to spot an Ida review

    I really loved the paragraph on Germaine Collier. She seemed like such a crazy character and her overdose style from back then is quite fascinating. I truly love the play of florals and animalics in this fragrance and it would be quite something to smell.

    Cheers from WI, USA

  • Dizzying florals followed by scented subterfuge–Ms Meister has such a way with words! I’m not cool enough to be a Dame but mad respect to you–this was a pleasure to read as always.

  • Claumarchini says:

    It is always a pleasure to read Ida’s reviews and always so interesting to read about perfumes and noses that are pillars of the history of perfume! I enjoyed very much to fantasize about being a dame and living in Berlin, going to the cabaret and smoking cigars I would add! Greetings FROM Italy

  • wildevoodoo says:

    Ida’s writing style is so dazzling and evocative! How could I not want to try Jolie Madame after reading this- how intoxicating it sounds! How could I resist the “layer upon layer of scented subterfuge” involving some of my favorite notes? I’ve been big into both 60s vintages and heady florals lately, and this, of course, fits the bill perfectly. Oh how I’d love to give this dazzling fragrance a try! I am in the US 🙂

  • Belladonna says:

    Wow what a generous draw! Always love Ida‘s Ability to mesmerize with a story. I would love to be a Dame too! Incredible review & opportunity. Thank you – in the US

  • doveskylark says:

    Ida’s review of Jolie Madame made me want to 1)watch South Pacific 2) fly to Berlin and search for vestiges of Christopher Isherwood’s stories 3) be decadent 4) be a dame 5) share some of my vintage perfumes with others. Thank you, Ida, for sharing a perfume from your collection.
    I live in the USA.