Poster of Lemurs of Madagascar courtesy of Laurie Stern
“Did you know that male ring-tail lemurs attract their mates by exuding a fruity floral smell from scent glands from their wrists?” ~ Laurie Stern
Laurie Stern of Velvet and Sweetpea’s Purrfumery
Who but Laurie Stern – Director of Animal Conservation, International Perfume Foundation and esteemed organic (cruelty free) perfumer – would step forward to help preserve the magnificent dwindling Madagascan forests where beloved lemurs dwell and raise their families? If you have ever encountered her in person, you realize that this makes perfect sense. Laurie is gentle, generous – a creative soul who composes exquisite fragrances and sinuous body frostings, bath salts, etc. – which embody both the classicism of vintage and the ingenuity of the present. It is no secret that I have been a devotee of her work for many years (EN: Ida featured Laurie’s gardenia enfleurage in her 2018 Perfumed Plume award winning article “Scent and Healing”). There exist many who dabble in the field of natural perfumery but surprisingly few who master that art; Laurie Stern is such a one.
20-year-old Madagascar tincture
Raw materials really matter. (That said, one can muck up perfectly good materials while meaning well.) It is not uncommon for perfumers to amass rare and/or aged quality substances which significantly enhance their fragrances. Dawn Spencer Hurwitz and Mandy Aftel have done so over the years and it’s a joy to smell them, a form of aromatic poetry. In Velvet and Sweetpea’s Purrfumery Luminous Lemurs, Laurie Stern utilizes a 20-year-old sandalwood and a 20-year-old Madagascar vanilla – each acquired before they were listed among endangered species. I believe that ethics do make a difference and appreciate others who feel similarly – one more reason to support perfumers who successfully achieve the delicate balance between beauty and responsibility. One can sit back and revel with a clear conscience.
Velvet and Sweetpea’s Purrfumery studio
Laurie’s perfumes are lyrical, romantic, cosseting and easy to wear. Luminous Lemurs is chockablock with aromas both gourmand and ebulliently floral; they complement one another seamlessly (as I smell it I note that my son Daniel, who is a brilliant baker and cook – would want to eat it based upon its odor profile. Libras possess that irresistible sweet tooth, you know!). This by no means infers that it is simplistic, unsophisticated or cloying; rather that it is possible to enjoy a long-lasting natural perfume which is both elegant and delicious.
Luminous Lemurs packaging courtesy of Velvet and Sweetpea’s Purrfumery
Luminous Lemurs introduces itself with a burst of juicy blood orange, a note which seems to persist throughout the perfume’s development despite its low molecular weight. It’s a luscious counterpoint to buttery indolic ylang-ylang (also a native of Madagascar) from concrete and essential oil sources: unctuous, sloe-eyed and dreamworthy. From here on in, things heat up considerably with the inclusion of antique spice absolutes from Laurie’s collection – clove bud, nutmeg and cinnamon. The coolness of blood orange segued by indolent lusty blossoms and sultry spices to fan the flames of desire. We are nowhere near done at this point: the headiness of eugenol-rich Egyptian carnation is an intuitive addition and amplifies spice notes beautifully, imparting floralcy as well as warmth. All this richness beds down in a duvet of aged sandalwood and the now-rare Madagascan vanilla. This vanilla is dark, woody – smelling of burnt sugar, redolent of both licorice and dark chocolate – and currently exceedingly costly, so one can imagine these characteristics magnified over time in an aged absolute. Sandalwood pairs instinctively with its creamy persistent softness painted in hushed tones which echo woody vanilla, a perfect base for Luminous Lemurs’ robust spiced florals.
Luminous Lemurs EDP courtesy of Velvet and Sweetpea’s Purrfumery
One of the notable qualities of this eau de parfum is its longevity, especially for a natural fragrance. I was sent a small sample of both the solid and atomiser formats; they are wonderful either layered together or worn separately and feel utterly indulgent. As the months advance and the temperatures drop, you can envelop yourself in warmth and luxury – made even better in the knowledge that you are also contributing to a noble cause. That’s definitely a win-win scenario in my books.
Notes: Blood orange, Madagascar ylang ylang essential oil and concrete, Egyptian carnation, antique clove bud, nutmeg & cinnamon, 20 year old sandalwood, 20 year old Madagascar vanilla.
Perfume samples generously provided by the perfumer: as always, beautifully presented and an honor to wear! My nose is my own…
~ Ida Meister, Senior Editor and Natural Perfumery Editor
image Duke Lemur Center© Dr. Patricia Wright
A generous portion of the proceeds from Velvet and Sweetpea’s Purrfumery Luminous Lemurs benefit Centre ValBio led by Dr. Patricia Wright, who has dedicated her life to working with indigenous communities to reverse the damage done by deforestation in Madagascar, and help save the many species of animals and plants that live and grow there. Purrfumery proceeds will help build tree corridors for lemurs and other wildlife to roam, and help girls from remote villages attend high school. These funds will also help local villagers who work at the center so they can continue their efforts.
Thanks to the largesse of perfumer Laurie Stern, we have 15 ml EDP spray of Velvet and Sweet Pea’s Purrfumery Luminous Lemurs ($110) for a registered reader anywhere in the US. To be eligible you must be a registered reader. Please tell us what you enjoyed about Ida’s review of Velvet and Sweet Pea’s Purrfumery Luminous Lemurs. Have you tried any of Laurie Stern’s perfumes? Draw closes 10/8/2020
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