Top Ten Fragrance 2022 Lauryn Beer (L) and Ida Meister (R)

Now that you have heard from Ermano and me, (our top ten 2022 fragrances here) and (The Best Fragrances of 2022 here) we continue our Top Ten Fragrance 2022 year in review with Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor Ida Meister and Senior Editor Lauryn Beer. Ida lives in South Boston, Massachusetts and Lauryn in Washington DC (440 miles away); their choices are very different. Now it’s time to reveal their respective top ten perfumes-Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief

Top Ten Fragrances 2022

Let’s be candid, my beauties: when there are 154 pages listed of fragrances released in 2022 – it’s more than a little daunting: it’s flat out terrifying. I’ve dutifully trawled my way through them all, wondering if I have forgotten/overlooked anything along the way. I sincerely doubt that anyone I know has smelt them all.  I observe, however – that there appear to be certain trends. Natural/botanical perfumery continues to be in steady and fine nick – and has had a wonderful year. It seems to be in many perfumers’ interests to provide ‘clean’, sustainable fragrances: I don’t foresee that this trend will be disappearing any time soon. Ouds, beast mode, aka nuclear sillage scents – and tea and coffee remain wildly popular in general. More often than not, I come across perfumes which are valued according to their olfactory decibel level – and as a very active evaluator and consultant over the past year, this appears self-evident. Vanillas, chocolate, caramelised gourmands are everywhere. It’s a matter of personal taste: there’s something for everyone. I’ve elected to highlight those perfumes which I’ve personally experienced and feel are extraordinary; your list might be quite different. To avoid favoritism, I’ve listed my Top Ten Fragrance 2022 in alphabetical order according to brand. ~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor

Ida’s Top Ten Fragrance 2022  (collage by Olya)

Areej Le Doré Civet de Nuit  (Russian Adam and Sultan Pasha): one of the year’s finest elixirs dwells in the dominion of desire. When the nose happens upon something this singular one cannot ignore it. Vivid animalics, heady white blossoms, precious resins, wisps of tobacco, oakmoss – are heralded by aldehydes and heliotrope, which temporarily lull you into a false sense of docility. A magnificent work. Notes: heliotrope accord, aldehydes, antique civet tincture, night blooming jasmine, ylang ylang, oakmoss, benzoin, olibanum, tobacco, white ambergris, castoreum, sandalwood Mysore, styrax, labdanum, musk accord

 DSH Perfumes Rosé/Vachi/Cigarette Fétiche (Dawn Spencer Hurwitz):TIE- DSH Perfumes Rosé, from the 3 Roses Collection – was a sleeper favorite, the one I least expected to adore. As limpid as a rose aquarelle, this aldehyde-kissed beauty surprises with its affable nature and extraordinary delicacy – a sparkling sweet/tart cocktail which delights. Vachi is sandalwood to the nth power: a complex, spicy, velvety perfume which includes the precious Mysore variety (the Golden Standard) and all things delectable. Cigarette Fétiche was one of the many DSH perfumes I didn’t have the opportunity to review (Dawn is so prolific, one could spend each day reviewing yet another oeuvre) – but from my small sample alone I was compelled to purchase it.  There’s a lovely ashen lick of smoke combined with tobacco, oakmoss, birch tar, labdanum, spices, cognac and flowers; it’s irresistible. DSH Rosé Notes: aldehydes, fruit notes, white cognac, rose petal accord, rosé wine accord, ambrette seed, Australian sandalwood. DSH Vachi Notes: pink peppercorn, black sesame accord, black plum accord, white peach, champaca leaf, champaca absolute, butter CO2, cinnamon bark, cardamom seed, osmanthus absolute, rosa centifolia absolute, Egyptian rose geranium, jasmine sambac, tobacco absolute, Indonesian vetiver, Gurjun balsam, myrrh gum, Atlas cedarwood, Australian sandalwood, Mysore sandalwood, oud, frankincense, Siam benzoin. DSH Cigarette Fétiche Notes: ambergris, amyris, Atlas cedarwood, Australian sandalwood, birch tar, brown oakmoss, choya ral, clove leaf, cognac, cured fruit accord, East Indian patchouli, grandiflorum jasmine, guaiacwood, hay absolute, immortelle, Indonesian vetiver, labdanum, Spanish orange flower absolute, orris, Peru balsam, spice notes, tobacco absolute, tobacco smoke accord, tonka bean absolute, vanilla absolute

Frederico Parfums Blooming Amber: (Justin Frederico): best pro lifelong perfumer striking out on their own: For the sake of transparency, you should know that I’ve worked as evaluator for Justin for several years (and with multiple projects and creative directors). During his long career Justin has been employed by IFF and Givaudan, and Blooming Amber is one of the most enjoyable, versatile representatives of this genre: it’s plush but not ponderous, a honeyed floral which borders on gourmand territory. Notes: mandarin, orange, honey, lily-of-the-valley, jasmine, lavender, neroli, amber, musk, vanilla, cashmere, patchouli, green moss

Goldfield & Banks Purple Suede (Ilias Ermenidis): I first experienced Purple Suede at Esxence Milano 2022, a love-at-first-sniff. It’s difficult to resist Tasmanian lavender gentled by rose, accented with oud, amber, and anisic hyssop, all interwoven with a seductive suede accord. Tenacious, sophisticated and unique, this is a fragrance to treasure. Notes: leather, lavender, coriander, hyssop, patchouli, cashmeran, amber, civet

Jorum Studios Scottish Odyssey (Euan McCall)– best collection: There are several noteworthy collections which graced the annals of 2022, so it is a close call – but Euan McCall’s Jorum Scottish Odyssey is unlike any other. The perfumer’s ability to conjure so many aspects of his environment was a real coup – from the flinty, thorny Highland Rose to the honeyed floral/herbal mellowness of Gorseland, the salty peaty hearthside whiskiness of Firewater culminating in the sophisticated Celtic fairytale quality of Healing Berry. If it were a painting in toto, Scottish Odyssey would be considered museum-worthy. Rose Highland Notes: Azalea, Sweet Basil, Pink pepper, Bell Heather, Clove Bud, Primrose, Rhododendron, Jasmine Absolute, Geranium oil, Rose Absolute, Atlantic Oak, Flag Iris, Vetiver, Ambergris, Mineral Accord. Gorseland Notes: Pineapple weed, Neroli oil, Chamomile, Gorseflower, Crab Apple, Lemon oil, Astilbe & Lavender Absolute, Gooseberry, Milk-vetch, Elderflower, Catchfly, Woodruff, Gorsewood, Zdravetz, Kush Accord. Firewater Notes: Black Tea, Juniper Berry, Nettle, Grapefruit, Beardtongue, Osmanthus Absolute, Ginger, Bracken & Larch, Birchwood, Sugar Kelp, Guaiacwood, Vetiver, Oakwood, Benzoin, Labdanum Absolute, Peat Accord. Healing Berry Notes: Artemisia, Blackcurrant Absolute, Tayberry, Willowherb, Sloes, Wild Mint, Rose Absolute, Logan Berry, Buckler Fern, Violet Leaf Absolute, Raspberry leaf, Orris Butter, Himalayan Balsam & Cereal Accord

Top Ten Fragrance 2022

Fragments by NVC: Creative Director Neela Vermeire has harbored a lifelong love for mosaics – the primary source of inspiration behind her latest compositions. Each fragrance possesses its own inimitable character: Nemus (composed by Bertrand Duchaufour) sings with citrus tea, a pinch of salinity, and soft woods; Purpureu (signed by Cristiano Canali), with its simmeringly dark gourmand comprised of dried fig, pepper, licorice, immortelle, dark rum, leather and tobacco – and Thyina (by Fabrice Olivieri) is a sandalwood-based melange softly accented with lavender and violet, coffee and hazelnut, and precious resinous materials. A heavenly trio. Nemus Notes: cedrat, bergamot, lemon, ginger, clary sage, geranium, tea, cedar, oudh, ambergris, nagarmotha, frankincense, patchouli. Purpureum Notes: pepper, licorice, dried fig, magnolia, dark rum, coffee, cacao, immortelle, brown tobacco, tonka, labdanum, myrrh, leather. Thyina Notes: pimento berry, lavender, violet, hazelnut, coffee, sandalwood, amyris, tolu balsam, Peru balsam, styrax, birch tar

Providence Perfume Co. Lapsang Lover (Charna Ethier)-the best natural perfume of 2022. It It was extremely difficult to choose amongst many gorgeous natural perfumes this year, because the contenders were both plentiful and beautiful – but Lapsang Lover is a perfume I find myself reaching for over and over. It is a jewel which gleams darkly, clad in exquisitely tarry black tea, myrrh, labdanum, celestial rose, honey and resins. An addiction. Notes: lapsang tea tincture, black tea, labdanum, fossilized amber, myrrh, rose, resins, cardamom, honey

Puente Perfumes Medusa (Eliam Puente):Medusa is Eliam Puente’s first fragrance, and blissfully, there are more to come. I was thrilled when approached by this old friend embarking upon a new creative path. Medusa is one of the headiest, most voluptuous perfumes in recent memory, and worthy of a cherished vintage status, with its inclusion of the finest quality materials. It’s dizzingly envoûtant and erotic. Notes: jasmine sambac and grandiflorum, Moroccan rose, orange blossom, orris root, benzoin, vetiver, oakmoss, civet

Santi Burgas Verdant Delirivm (Santi Burgas): this was another fragrant revelation from this past year’s Esxence. Everything you could desire from a green floral and more – sparkling citrus paired with dashes of mint and oregano pave the way for rose and jasmine. Despite the inclusion of two distinct vanillas, Verdant Delirivm never cloys – and the smoky Haitian vetiver in the base is a pleasure. Notes: Calabrian bergamot, yuzu, jasmine, Bulgarian rose, mint, oregano, Madagascar vanilla, Bourbon vanilla, Haitian vetiver

Senyokô Hora de la Verdad (Euan McCall): Five months ago I felt this to be among 2022’s finest, and my opinion hasn’t wavered since then. Blood and beauty in the bull ring, enwreathed in rose and geranium – saffron-burnished leather, deftly spiced. Lashings of labdanum, vetiver. This took my breath away, and I hope to purchase a bottle in the near future. Notes: bergamot, Seville orange, coriander seed, Timut pepper, pink pepper, Spanish saffron, Turkish rose absolute, geranium absolute, vetiver, leather, ambergris, musk, Spanish labdanum

Understandably, there were many honorable mentions this year! Each will receive an award. Of considerable note: Aftelier Boheme Confection, MIZU Brand Floral Delusion and St Clair Scents Moving On– all of which happen to be natural perfumes. Scents of Wood Oud in Calvados (Natasha Côté-Mouzannar) was another aromatic charmer, a symphony of aged calvados snuggled into a duvet composed of oakwood, cedar and oud – all the while garnished with pink pepper, bergamot, cocoa and rose de mai.

Kudos to all of our perfumers this year! Well done – all of you. May the coming year find you all productive, creative, healthy and happy…

–Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor

Top Ten Fragrance 2022 Lauryn (collage by Olya)

2022 was bewildering for many of us. Malaise has set in as we struggle to come to terms with a world unmade by the pandemic and war in Ukraine, the polarization of political factions, and here, in the States, rising crime. But, as so often happens in the mist of dark times, or perhaps as a response to them, the creative spirit burns through and brings small gifts of comfort. It was a particularly heartening to see a parade of wonderful oud fragrances focusing on the complexities of the real thing, and a few of found their way onto my list. These last twelve months have poured out a cornucopia of soulful, inventive scents that, like friendly spirits, have guided me, invisibly but deeply felt, through some tough weeks. In fact, there were so many beautiful fragrances produced this year that I found it difficult to narrow my favourites to ten. But here are my Top Ten Fragrance 2022 in alphabetical order; may they bring you light in the coming year. Lauryn Beer, Senior Editor

Angelos Creations Olfactives Fougeriste (Angelos Balamis): One of 2022’s most joyous fragrances, Fougeriste is a delightful exemplar of the fougere style, given a spring to its step with an overdose of brilliant citrus. Angelos Balamis has produced so many gorgeous perfumes in the last two years that it was terribly difficult to hone in on just one. Fougeres don’t often interest me; Fougeriste did more than that: it made me laugh with happiness.

Azman Perfumes I Am Darkness (Nutt Wesshasartat): Not since Andre Lebreton’s brilliant Grimoire has there been a green incense that caught me quite like I Am Darkness. Dubai-based Azman Perfumes has created a beautiful incense fragrance built, unconventionally, on a chypre structure. The result is a mysterious, smoky green scent with a warm, floral heart and woody base that still somehow seems airy and warm.

Bogue Profumo 10EDT and 20 EDP (tie) (Antonio Gardoni): Antonio Gardoni’s 10EDT and 20EDP, created for the tenth anniversary of Bogue Profumo and the twentieth anniversary of Luckyscent, are floral doppelgangers sharing nearly all same notes but with changes in tempo and heft. Opulent, frisky and thoroughly lovely, these are my favourite Bogues since Mem.

Chatillon Lux Agua Fresca (Shawn Maher): A deliciously nectarous but airy blend of apricot, yuzu, ripe melon and berry, invigorated with cucumber, deepened with vetiver and smoothed with cream, Agua Fresca is a summer splash in more than one sense – it was one of the best summer releases of 2022. Perfect for hot days when you long for something other than citrus or aquatics.

Marissa Zappas Smoked Jasmine Black Tea (Marissa Zappas):Smoked Jasmine Black Tea from Marissa Zappas was inspired “by the scent of black tea spilled over an old book … (it) harkens back to Emily Dickinson, her dried flowers and poetry.” For me, though, this is the fragrance of wet jasmine flowers spilling from the Upper Westside bodegas mingling with steam from a cup of Ceylon tea. One of my favourite tea fragrances to date.

Top Ten Fragrance 2022

Masque Milano White Whale (Christian Alori): Masque Milano’s heartbreakingly beautiful coda to their Opera collection, White Whale, is perhaps the most heartbreakingly beautiful violet-ambergris perfumes I’ve ever smelled. Inspired by Melville’s Moby Dick, White Whale is a magnificent and poignant conclusion to one of independent perfumery’s best flagship lines.

Parfums Dusita Montri (Pissara Umajivani): I first sampled Pissara Umajivani’s tribute to her late father in the Dusita shop in Paris last Fall, and was immediately enchanted. Elegant, spicy and even leaning into gourmand, Montri walks a tightrope between different styles of perfumery with the skill of an aerial artist. One of the best releases from this house.

Olivier Durbano M.Oldavite (Olivier Durbano):Herbal, gentle, and leafy, Olivier’s M.Oldavite blends angelica with palo santo, incense and moss dots for a comforting scent that emanates a soft glow. If you sometimes find incense too churchy, this translucent green fragrance is a gem.

Rogue Perfumery L’Homme M LaCroix (Manuel Cross):The first leather fragrance from Manuel Cross is a gorgeous combination of rough-and-tumble and refinement, earthiness and elegance. L’Homme M.LaCroix combines elements of classic citrus and leather chypres, then roughs them up with a slap of scoundrel before smoothing them out into the smoothest, silkiest leather to hit these shores in years.

Sarah Baker Gold Spot (Chris Maurice): The little sister to last year’s oud-centric gourmand, Loudo, Gold Spot deserves her place in the limelight. Sultry yet cozy and loaded with off-sweet dessert smells of butterscotch, cream, and dark chocolate, poised against a backdrop of dry, cracked wood and resinous aromas of agar wood and oud, Gold Spot is the most approachably delicious thing I’ve sampled this year.

Sultan Pasha Turath (Sultan Pasha): Turath is a seriously opulent, gorgeous – and thank to a generous dose of civet and musk accord, skanky – “beast” that blends two high-quality Hindu ouds, three rose absolutes, and of whole lot of naughtiness. It’s an amalgam of winey blooms, cracked wood, smoke, and carnality: Claudia Cardinale, Aldonza, the goddess Al-Lat, and Maria Callas all morphing into one. This has got to be the sexiest perfume of the year.

Artisan Perfumer of the Year: And finally, in a year of so many great releases, it is hard to single out just one house or perfumer. But I have to give the nod jointly for Artisan Perfumer of the Year to Angelos Balamis and Manuel Cross. These two brilliantly talented gents have outdone themselves with several releases over the course of 2022 that could each have easily found a place in my top ten. In addition to Fougeriste, Angelos gave us the beautiful chypre Angeliki, his wonderfully luxurious Yloud-Yloud, silky, cooling Salon de The, and the very naughty Vetiveria Animalis, all in the space of 12 months. Likewise, Rogue Perfumery’s Manuel Cross put out several beautifully crafted fragrances this year, including the lovely, smoky rose Rostracto, a first-rate oud, A’Oud Ancienne, and, of course, L’Homme M. LaCroix.

My Perfume House of the Year – artisan or otherwise — is undoubtedly Masque Milano, who signed off their main collection with White Whale, one of the most breathtaking fragrances of their entire, gorgeous line.

Lauryn Beer, Senior Editor

Tomorrow, Emmanuelle and Nicoleta step in with their respective top ten fragrances 2022, followed by Karl and Michael, Hernando and Rachel, and and Olya and Steven.

What did you think of Ida and Lauryn’s ÇaFleureBon Top Ten Fragrance 2022 ? What about Ida’s honorable mentions, best collection, best natural perfumer and Lauryn’s Artisan Perfumers of the Year, and Perfume House of the Year?

For Ida and Lauryn’s Top Ten Fragrance 2022 Giveaway

Mille Mercis to Olivier Durbano for a 50 ml bottle of M.oldavite18:9 for one registered reader in the U.S., Canada, UK or the EU. YOU MUST REGISTER OR YOUR COMMENT WILL NOT COUNT.

From the generous Angelos Balamis, we have a 30 ml bottle of Angelos Creations Olfactives Fougeriste for one registered reader in Europe, the UK or the USA

Thanks to the largesse of perfumer Eliam Puente we have a of 12.5 bottle of Puente Perfumes Medusa for one registered reader in the EU, USA, UK or Canada.

With gratitude to Dawn Spencer Hurwitz for a 3x 5ml DSH Perfumes Rosé/Vachi/Cigarette Fétiche gift set for one registered reader in the USA ONLY or if you HAVE A USA SHIPPING ADDRESS

Please leave a QUALITY comment with your thoughts on their selections for the Top Ten Fragrance 2022, where you live and which you would like to win. You must be a registered reader. Draw closes December 31, 2022

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