The Passing of Winter, Schubert’s Winterreise and the 100th Birthday of Guerlain L’ Heure Bleue

 

 Ostermorgen/ Easter Morning

Winter is over and the first signs of spring have been greeting us, the snowdrops and winter aconites erupt everywhere, and the birds sing happily in the morning. However, bear with me, for one last time this year, while I look at winter from another perspective, and tell the story of two masterpieces.

The other night I went to a performance of Schubert’s Winterreise (Winter’s Journey). It was a very special performance since firstly; it was performed by very dear friends, and secondly, it was a staged version, created with a view to make people (re-) discover the contemporaneity of this deep and complex masterpiece through an added visual dramatic side. 

 

Spaziergang in der Abenddämmerung/ Walk at dusk

This romantic cycle of songs with piano accompaniment is a journey through the inner winter of the soul; a man who has been thwarted by his love sets out on a restless journey towards his death. The unification of Wilhelm Müller’s poetry and Schubert’s immortal music is at the same time bleak and utterly beautiful.

 ”Frozen drops fall

from my cheeks:

Did I, then, not notice,

I have been weeping?

O tears, my tears,

are you so tepid,

That you turn to ice

like cool morning dew?

Yet you spring from a source,

my breast, with such fierce heat,

As if you would melt

all of the ice of winter!”

-Gefror'ne Thränen

Sonnenuntergang/ Sunset 

I have always viewed this music as very modern, but some way through the performance, I was struck by the fact of how old and yet utterly relevant this music was, at the most modern part of the work, I couldn’t stop wondering how this would have been received back in Schubert’s days, in an intimate salon amongst friends, Schubert himself at the piano. I felt transported. Felt like I was time warped into that Biedermeier living room, and in the most fascinating way I heard the music as gripping and new, as well as vintage. 

 

Wanderer über dem Nebelmeer/ The Wanderer above the sea of fog

Spellbound by the performance on stage, and by the bridging of my perception of time, my perfume interacted; it was the melancholic smell of iris, powdered heliotrope and anise seed, the softly spoken floral heart, a sensation of the fragrance, much like the music, having just been given new life; the songs and the scent became part of the same scenario. It was the perfect scent-track, the twilight introspective mood mirrored by the romantic wayfarer’s final journey; in that sublime way that only scent can do it, in an instant. If you haven’t already guessed, my scented companion was of course L’Heure Bleue.

Not that the bleakness of the tormented soul of the wanderer in Winterreise is what spells out L’Heure Bleue to me, but rather the melancholia that takes hold of the listener, the onlooker of the journey. It allows for that special sentiment when you need to satisfy the pleasure of dwelling in sorrows, past or present.

 

“Every stream finds the sea,

Every sorrow finds its grave.” 


Dorflandschaft bei Morgenbeleuchtung/ Village Landscape in Morning light

At the performance I felt part of a journey, not just the passage which the character of the piece goes through, but the musical journey, which has been a heritage passed down to us from generation to generation.  I felt Schubert staring straight at me through the music, like a genie out of a bottle. And that was too how I felt about the perfume I was wafting, past and present in one. It was both the fragrance created 100 years ago, and it wasn’t. The ingredients would have smelt different, the formulation has been altered, the same way that the piano would not have been the Grand Piano sound we are used to, and we have no idea how Schubert himself or the singer Vogel might have performed that first sitting room Winterreise, and yet, both masterpieces are still here with us. They are alive, and will hopefully stay so for many more years to come in all their different incarnations.

 

Schubert’s Winterreise is from 1828, and Jacques Guerlain’s milestone L’Heure Bleue will this year become a centenarian, so historically they are nowhere near contemporaries.  I did not choose L’Heure Bleue on purpose, but it turned out to be the ideal companion through this musical journey of lost love and a heart in winter. Luck has he who is not touched by the pain of these epochal masterpieces.

And with these final words I want to go out into the awakening spring but not before I’ve invited all readers out there to re-discover their personal favourite masterpieces- everyday

Jasia Julia Nielson, Contributor

 All art is by Caspar David Friedrich (1774-1840) who was a contemporary of Franz Joseph Schubert

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20 comments

  • Christine Duval says:

    Wonderful post and homage to 2 masterpieces , L’Heure Bleue is my first Guerlain “love” and i come back to it on a regular basis . I would personally have associated it more with a Chopin nocturne ..

  • Thank you for this lovely article, Jasia. In Miami, the seasons blur, but I am from the north and grew up yearning for Spring to arrive. I remember the change in the scent in the air – not flowers – but a crisp freshness with a lot of soft, rounded tones.

    L’Heure Bleu is 100 years old! I have to dig out my sample and dab some on today in honor of this legendary perfume. It’s a little too early in the day to listen to melancholy music, but I’ll return later to see how you connect it all.

  • Happy 100th birthday to you L’ Heure Bleu. Such an iconic and legendary scent.
    I really enjoy this on others in their projection path. I am not personally able to carry this scent its a classic on others:)
    Wonderful article.

  • Unfortunately, L’Heure Bleue Extrait (batch code fall 2010) was reformulated to ‘death’ IMO. It is now a dull, non-spicy, thin, strangely vanilla-y and polite ‘office fragrance’. A desaster!

  • Queen Cupcake says:

    What beautiful arts you have treated us to in this post! I love the paintings and especially the Schubert. Because you seem to love the great art-songs, here is a little masterpiece for you: http://tinyurl.com/7kzasl2

    XOXO

  • Jasia, I know so little about classical music but your very moving and personal account of this performance of Winteraisse made me feel like I was right there, experiencing it in the way it was meant to be. I feel like I got a glimpse into three souls: yours, Schubert’s and L’Heure Bleue’s — and illustrated with the art of Friedrich, the entire post is just breathtaking. Can’t wait to meet you in person! <3 <3

  • First of all thank you so much for all the thoughtful and personal comments.

    Christine D; Thank you so much for your kind words, I think L’Heure Bleue can of course be Chopin as well, or other things even, depending on mood and time.

    Thank you Anya, so you know about yearning for spring, it is a beautiful thing too, that time just between seasons. Like the time between day and night: L’Heure Bleue.

    Feliciag; thank you, I think you’re not alone in not being able to wear L’HB, I’m glad you can enjoy it on others though, and glad you could enjoy the post anyway:-)

    Larimar; Sorry to hear that.

    Queen Cupcake; Thank you very much for reminding me of the devastatingly beautiful Temps des lilas, and for your kind words. I wonder if you had a fragrance in mind for that particular song?

    Ringthing; that’s very kind of you, I’m glad you enjoyed it.

    Suzanne; You’re too sweet, thank you very much, I am glad if I could make you feel a little bit like you were there too. (and I’ll see if I can’t find a nice classical concert to drag you all along too;-))<3

  • Jasia beautifully orchestrated article. Drew me right into your experience. I too love Classical music and of course L’Heure Bleue is always in my perfume collection.

  • Oh Jasia,you made my day with your beautiful article,I can’t tell you how moving I found it,I am a classical singer and Winterreise has a special place in my heart and I always think of Schubert singing it to his friends with a croaky voice,and they didn’t understand it,found it too avant-garde-a timeless masterpiece,even after many years of working on it,I still discover something new!You talk about it so well,I think Suzanne’s comment shows you,please spread your love for it some more,song recitals are a dying art form,at least here in Europe-‘fremd bin ich eingezogen…’thank you-and genius linking it with L’Heure Bleue!!

  • Utterly beutiful your post, Jasia! Lucky you to have been struck by beauty, both of music and perfume. I love L’heure Bleue over anything else.

  • cjblue and bronyraur; thank you for reading, I’m very happy you enjoyed it:-)

    Sandi; I’m so glad you felt drawn in, it’s always daunting treating the classics. I truly appreciate you nice comment.

  • Ariane; You are very welcome. I couldn’t be happier that this piece has been so well received, as I wasn’t sure if it was too specialized, and if it would talk to people who didn’t know Schubert’s wonderful song cycle… I’m glad that you love this genre as much as I, and because of my love for it, it’s unlikely that I shouldn’t be linking fragrance to music again in other posts, even if it won’t be every time;-)
    I loved your image of Schubert singing with his croaky voice, with his puzzled friends as audience.

  • Maria; I know you do. It was your extrait I wore. L’HB for me, will always be your perfume (which doesn’t mean that I can’t wear it too;-))<3

  • Jasia, what a lovely post.

    Vintage LHB is strikingly beautiful, but like you, I find a lot of melancholy in it. I buy a lot of ‘sad’ perfumes but find myself reaching more often for the happy ones. Why do I think that sadness=beauty but happiness=only-pretty? Sadness gives depth to many perfumes (but that doesn’t mean that I want to wear them).

    And I love that vintage ad!

  • Aubrey; I know what you mean, it feels so beautiful to be happy but it’s not a complicated feeling, whereas sadness has so many facets and colours. I am glad you enjoyed the post.

  • Jasia, love your poetic writing…and the pictures…I actually thought of you today when I passed the opera “Unter den Linden” in Berlin….until you wrote that article, I never knew that it was called that way…:-)
    Spring has sprung here now and that big yearning is over…until net year…
    I will also dig out some of my old perfume bottle collection and look for an antique L’heure bleu…<3

  • I have worn L’Heure Bleue for the past three springs until this year when my perfume sensitive hubby and perfume hating co-worker banned it from my perfume wardrobe! It is amazing that something 100 years old can still be so beautiful and contemporary to my nose. great article!