Puredistance Rubikona (fragrance visualisation & digital photography: Despina Veneti)©

The enduring allure of rubies undoubtedly springs from their (ideally) red color – a color that represents blood, vitality, energy, passion. Rubies have been cherished and worn for centuries as symbols of power, nobility, social rank or eternal love, perhaps eliciting more emotion than any other gemstone; on a less apparent level, these precious gems have been used as talismans against evil spirits, even as medicine against ailments of all sorts. From the scepters of Emperors to the crowns of Kings and Queens, from the breastplates of High Priests to the shields of warriors, and from the precious jewelry adorning cinema stars to the magical “ruby” slippers on Dorothy’s feet in the 1939 film adaptation of “The Wizard of Oz”, rubies have asserted their impressive presence in history, art and pop culture.

Clockwise: Promotional poster for Puredistance Rubikona, Jan Ewoud Vos of Puredistance & independent perfumer Cécile Zarokian (Photos 1 & 2 courtesy of Puredistance/Photo 3 courtesy of Cécile Zarokian)©

Translating into scent not just the color red, but also the timeless appeal and emotional power of rubies, was a mission that the Perfume House of Puredistance, and its founder/creative director Jan Ewoud Vos, undertook with great care. The fragrance’s chosen name – “Rubikona” – possesses a multi-layered dynamic: at first, it brings to mind the river Rubicon which Julius Caesar crossed in 49BC, thus igniting the Great Roman Civil War. Furthermore, “Rubikona” appears to merge together “Ruby” and “Icon”, like two mineral components co-existing in the same gemstone. Never one to rush things, Mr. Vos allowed his evocative notion to mature, evolve. The detailed timeline of the fragrance’s creation, that he so graciously shared with me, is most intriguing. As early as in May 2017, Mr. Vos invited perfumer Cécile Zarokian (who had previously signed Puredistance Sheiduna) to compose a second perfume for the brand. As Mme Zarokian told me, she was thrilled, since their previous collaboration had been “smooth, engaging, and gave birth to a close relationship based on solid trust”. Mr. Vos handed her for inspiration a reworked version of “Our Lady of Vladimir”, the celebrated 12th-century Byzantine icon of Virgin Mary and the Divine Child.

Clockwise: Ruby/diamond necklace by Chopard (via prestigeonline.com, art direction by Aaron Lee)©, Audrey Hepburn wearing a ruby/diamond necklace (photo by Richard Avedon for Harper’s Bazaar 1961)©, Model wearing Lilly Daché hat & ruby earrings (photo by Henry Clarke for Vogue, 1960)©

In August 2018, Mme Zarokian was asked to start working on the composition. However, a few weeks later, Mr. Vos would have an unexpected epiphany that changed his creative course. While watching the 2014 film “The Equalizer”, he saw a scene that startled him: a religious icon, hanging on the wall of a vicious gangster’s office, is splattered by blood after the latter is shot to death. That icon was none other than a copy of “Our Lady of Vladimir”. Perceiving it as a sign, he decided to abandon the initial concept involving this holy icon. In October 2018, Mr. Vos handed a new brief to Mme Zarokian: Puredistance Rubikona would be a deeply warming perfume with the message “Chic Inside Out”, visualised by a vibrant red ruby. By the end of 2018, Cécile Zarokian had proposed three different scent options; Jan Ewoud Vos and the Puredistance team took all the time they needed to turn their instinctual preference into certainty, ultimately choosing the very first version in November 2019. Eleven months later, Puredistance Rubikona is finally being presented to the world…

Clockwise: Cate Blanchett in red Dior coat (photo by Willy Vanderperre, 2013)©, Suzy Parker in red sequined Norman Norell dress (photo by Milton Greene for LIFE, 1952)©, Anne Hathaway in ruby-red gown (photo by Alexi Lubomirski for Vogue, 2014)©

In Puredistance Rubikona, the desired ruby-red ambiance is achieved in a somewhat unexpected manner (without the use of berry/fruity notes or dominant, lipsticky rose). The perennial flower is of course present; still, it’s the warmth emanating from every strategically placed note, and the interaction between them all, that conveys that glowing-red radiance. Even more catalytic than the rose is Rubikona’s patchouli: omnipresent and multifaceted. Perfumer Cécile Zarokian confirmed my thoughts: “Rubikona is a warm, enveloping floral bouquet of iris, ylang-ylang and rose. I used orris butter in order to translate elegance in a smart and subtle way: the fragrance had to be “sophisticated, chic, refined and stylish”. Rubikona also had to be very, deeply red – not in a figurative way, representing for instance a “red rose” red, but expressing intensity. I chose different kinds of patchouli to translate this intensely red color.”

Sophia Loren in ruby-red (photo collage by Despina Veneti)

Generous and extroverted, Puredistance Rubikona bares its soul from the moment it touches my skin: a moist, fertile patchouli, infused with nectarous grapefruit, mandarin and bergamot, makes for a surprising, fascinating opening. A slightly metallic – yet unmistakably red – rose blooms, ready to receive the aromatic gifts of the other floral notes: the intrinsic sophistication of the iris, the carnal brightness of ylang-ylang, the motherly comfort of the orange blossom. At this point, patchouli feels like the impregnated earth from which all these beautiful flowers stem. The fragrance’s spiritual aspect is communicated by the meditative aroma of cedarwood, and a resinous, ambery aura. The delectable creaminess (owed to rich vanilla, fluffy musks and sandalwoody accents) that progressively takes over unveils the patchouli’s chocolatey nuances, leading to a long, pleasurable – crème chantilly-like – drydown. Apart from being a stunning perfume, Puredistance Rubikona is also conceptually successful in reflecting the ruby’s aesthetic, symbolic, spiritual dimensions. Its glowing opulence embellishes the skin like a piece of stunning jewelry, while its warming energy comforts like a loved one’s embrace. Puredistance Rubikona makes me think of an Italian screen goddess like Sophia Loren: a beauty that’s at once earthy and extraordinary, projecting unaffected charm, warmth of spirit and voluptuousness that just can’t be helped.

Notes: Grapefruit, Bergamot, Mandarin; Rose, Iris, Ylang-Ylang, Clove, Orange Blossom, Creamy Notes; Patchouli, Cedarwood, Vanilla, Solar Notes, Musk.

Editor’s note: Puredistance Rubikona will be available on their site from October 15, 2020 in 3 different sizes: 17.5ml (175€), 60ml (295€) and 100ml (490€). All three sizes are now available at Jovoy Paris

Disclaimer: I’d like to thank Puredistance for my 17.5ml flacon of Rubikona. The opinions are my own.

– Despina Veneti, Senior Editor

Puredistance Rubikona 60ml & 17.5ml (photos courtesy of Puredistance)©

Thanks to the generosity of Puredistance, we have a draw for a set of FIVE 2ml samples of Puredistance Rubikona (10ml perfume in total) for ONE registered reader in USA, Canada, EU or UK. You must register here or your comment will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what you enjoyed most about Despina’s review, if you have a favorite Puredistance fragrance, and where you live. Draw closes  0/15/2020

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