Ormonde Jayne Evernia Review (Geza Schoen and Linda Pilkington) 2021+ Everlasting Oakmoss Draw

 

Geza Schoen composed Ormonde Jayne Evernia the 2021 addition to the signature collection

Ormonde Jayne Evernia was composed by Geza Schoen for the Signature Collection withcreative direction of Linda Pilkington photos courtesy of Ormonde Jayne and Geza Schoen

Creative Director Linda Pilkington of Ormonde Jayne is determined to embrace a heretofore missing category in the Ormonde Jayne perfume library with the introduction of her latest fragrant release in the Signature Collection, Evernia composed by Geza Schoen .

Evernia prunastri

Evernia prunastri via wiki

Evernia prunastri is the Latin name for oakmoss – among my best loved aromatic materials, a lichen cherished for its inky mystery and ability to conjure depths of the forest floor, laden with its tones of moss, decaying leaves, bark, wood and fungus/mushroom. The IFRA has instituted several restrictions over the years due to claims of skin allergenicity; most perfumers seek out atranol-reduced/free absolutes and/or substitutes. However, one may view it, oakmoss is a staple in the perfumer’s palette: there may be a number of extant so-called chypres sans oakmoss available, but they don’t move me the way that the real deal does.

Ormonde Jayne Evernia Review

Ormonde Jayne Evernia photo via Ormonde Jayne

I found myself on tenterhooks when the announcement Ormonde Jayne Evernia was released – and even more so when a tester was recently sent me. At this writing it is not available in the U.S until January/February of 2022, but I highly recommend a sniff at the very least when the opportunity presents itself for sampling. It’s that beautiful, wearable and one of the finest perfumes I’ve smelt in 2021. I’m very excited about Evernia, and my hope is that you will feel similarly.

best oakmoss perfumes

Phyllis and Demophoon Edward Burnes Jones 1870 via wiki

Ormonde Jayne Evernia is a marvel of blending, as so many Ormonde Jayne scents are: there’s a seamless quality which they possess, and Evernia is no exception. It opens with a marvelous piquancy which I attribute to inimitable bergamot (so versatile!) and nose-tickling pink pepper, coriander and cardamom. Cassis certainly contributes its complex fruity/animalic/tangy/winelike verdancy – a wonderful quirky absolute which makes florals sing (heavenly accompaniment to rose, as in Diptyque L’Ombre Dans L’Eau) and lends green fragrances extra fascination. Evernia’s choice of florals encompasses several house favorites: lily of the valley, freesia, orris butter, jasmine, violet and Moroccan rose. Part of the magic you experience is this – in spite of its markedly sweet flowers, Evernia never skews syrupy. Blossoms are woven into a harmonious whole, embroidered throughout with threads of cardamom and the commodious depths of oakmoss.

Ormonde Jayne Evernia

Ormonde Jayne Evernia photo via Ormonde Jayne

A profoundly woody/musky base awaits; in the capable hands of the perfumer, it is consistently tenacious without smelling leaden, marrying the highly unexpected qualities of persistence + airiness. Evernia’s perfumed plinth is composed of heavy-hitters which are multifaceted and malleable: staples such as Cashmeran® (IFF) provide a velvety woody musk which complements florals; Iso-E Super® (IFF), a creamy, ambergris-like woody floralcy redolent of fine cedar; sandalwood and musk are accented with the sweet myrrh opoponax. The drydown is simply stunning, a masterpiece of refinement and subtlety which lingers indefinitely, a veil of scented secrecy and intrigue.

Ormonde Jayne Evernia plays nicely into my dryad fantasies. It feels fleet-footed, light of being and perhaps a touch talismanic as well; there’s something deliciously fey about it. I can’t imagine a season Evernia doesn’t suit: it insinuates its way into your good graces with sophisticated stealth. I’m thrilled to have it in my oakmoss arsenal. Well-played,

Ormonde Jayne. Notes: Sicilian bergamot, cassis absolute, cardamom, pink pepper, coriander seed, orris butter, lily of the valley, freesia, jasmine, violet, Moroccan rose absolute, oakmoss, Cashmeran® (IFF), sandalwood, musk, opoponax, Iso-E Super®

Tester generously provided by Ormonde Jayne – many thanks. I treasure it. As always, my nose is my own…

~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor

Ormonde Jayne London Evernia

8ml of Ormonde Jayne Evernia photo by Michelyn

 Thanks to the generosity of Ormonde Jayne London we have a draw for a 8 ml flacon of Evernia for one registered reader in the USA. EUROPERFUMES IS THE US DISTRIBUTOR SO PLEASE LOOK  FOR IT IN JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2022

Ormonde Jayne Evernia

photo by Ida©

If you are in the UK there is a 50 ml bottle of Evernia.

You must register here or your comment will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what you enjoyed most about Ida’s review of Ormonde Jayne Evernia, where you live, and if you have a favorite Ormonde Jayne fragrance. Draw closes October 3, 2021

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35 comments

  • kdub2675 says:

    I really like Ida’s excite that comes across in this review…especially regarding the oakmoss that is in Evernia. I enjoy oakmoss(the real deal) also.

    I’m in the USA.

  • Mara says:

    I love Oakmoss and thanks to Ida I now know what it is.
    My favorite part was airiness +persistent and that the drydown of Ormonde Jayne Evernia is “simply stunning”
    I am very fond of the early Ormonde Jayne perfumes Ormonde Woman, Champaca, Taif and Tolu especially Tolu. I will save my money for a blind buy when it’s here in the USA.
    Thank you for the chance to win and such a beautiful perfume.

  • Vahagn says:

    Very interesting review, Ida !!!
    Love and appreciate multifaceted and multilayered fragrances as this perfume is as Ida said.
    Love velvety woody mask and Iso-E Super !!!
    I have address in UK.

  • jmmcmenamin says:

    Great description of oakmoss and I really like a mix of natural and synthetic scents! Ormonde Jayne is always good, so no worries about this scent! It’ll be a winner, too!
    In Louisiana, USA.

  • roxhas1cat says:

    OH this sounds exciting if itś one of the best Ida has smelled in 2021, and we are well into 2021. Stunning drydown…..Yes. I have been excited for a few releases in that dryad style, but they fell short. I love Ormonde Jayne, so I have high hopes. My favorites of the line are Vanile Iris, Taíf, Taif elixir, Montabaco, and Rose Gold. I was very excited until I got to the part of a 2022 release!! USA. Thanks for the chance.

  • drjedi says:

    Ida describing Ormonde Jayne Evernia as being one of the finest perfumes she has smelled in 2021 is indeed high praise. Unfortunately, I haven’t tried anything by Ormonde Jayne, yet, but would love to. I especially liked when Ida says – “Ormonde Jayne Evernia plays nicely into my dryad fantasies. It feels fleet-footed, light of being and perhaps a touch talismanic as well; there’s something deliciously fey about it. I can’t imagine a season Evernia doesn’t suit: it insinuates its way into your good graces with sophisticated stealth.” Ormonde Jayne Evernia seems to be a lovely perfume, and I am intrigued by it. Thanks for the review and draw. I am in the USA.

  • rachel says:

    Idas review really expresses so well the finesse and elegance of this house. I’ve only tried Man and Woman but they were both total class acts and “seamlessly blended,” as Ida puts it.
    I’d love to try this! In USA

  • rachelng says:

    Ida! ❤️ I love your reviews!!! I also LOVE oakmoss! ❤️ I can’t wait to experience this beautifully blended, sophisticated scent! Ida’s descriptions are gorgeous! I especially enjoy Ormonde Woman and Taif, if I’m guessing Evernia could be a fast favorite! Thank you so much for this opportunity! USA

  • oregonclaire says:

    I appreciate the background information on oakmoss, what it brings, and I didn’t know that there were atranol-reduced/free absolutes available. I live in the USA. My favorite Ormonde Jayne fragrance is Ormonde Woman, which is full-bottle worthy for me.

  • Bassey says:

    I love the language and analogies used in Ida’s review like … – a wonderful quirky absolute which makes florals sing (heavenly accompaniment to rose). The review really paints a beautiful picture of this fragrance. I have not tried any Ormonde Jayne fragrance yet. Maryland, US

  • nelle says:

    Thank you for this kind offer! My favorite part of the review is how well the writer makes me able to smell the scents she’s talking about, I live in the Mojave Desert and…oh, I hate picking favorites…

    Tsarina? That’s one of them, anyway

  • Andrei Artimon says:

    OH this sounds exciting if itś one of the best Ida has smelled in 2021, and we are well into 2021. Stunning drydown…..Yes. I have been excited for a few releases in that dryad style, but they fell short. I love Ormonde Jayne, so I have high hopes. My favorites of the line are Vanile Iris, Taíf, Taif elixir, Montabaco, and Rose Gold. I was very excited until I got to the part of a 2022 release!! USA. Thanks for the chance.

  • Ben A says:

    I share Ida’s enthusiasm for chypres with real oakmoss. Some of my favorite scents — Chanel Pour Monsieur — are not what they used to be thanks to IFRA. I don’t have a favorite Ormonde Jayne fragrance…but this one could be it. I’m in Oklahoma, USA. As always, thanks for the draw!

  • Mim says:

    Hello again after a long time…

    My favorite so far is OJ Woman–it feels like it transports me to a magical place in a dappled forest, and at the same time grounds me in myself.

    I like the art and the “dryad fantasies”–the description of the scent as very well blended and always appropriate no matter what the season sound nice but also potentially bland. But the vivid language makes it seem anything but.

    Also learning about oakmoss modifications, and hearing that cardamon is notable in Evernia.
    USA
    Thanks!

  • VictoryIII says:

    I really liked Ida`s comparison of the perfume with the forest dryads! In general, I agree that with the introduction of IFRA restrictions, all substitutions of real oak moss for evernil made the fragrances lose their former charm, however, I also agree that in the skillful hands of a perfumer, even from synthetic components, you can get a beautiful scent that will inspire thoughts of wet forest. It seems that this fragrance contains all the most hormonically combined components: flowers, spices, citruses and, of course, moss. I would love to try this perfume, as I am just starting to discover chypres. I noticed that they project especially well and elegantly in cool autumn.
    I am from Wisbech, UK.

  • mdellaroc says:

    I don’t know much about oak moss. You hear it all the time, but I really had no idea what it smelled like. I understand it is now made from an accord because it is either expensive or can cause skin irritation? Anyway I have been interested in this house for a while, but I have so many on my list and not enough money or space for all these amazing perfumes. In maryland.

  • Daphne says:

    I love the refreances to inky mystery and dryad fantasies. My favorite is Tolu. I am in US.

  • lkschnit says:

    I adore oakmoss and Ida’s description of Evernia as ‘deliciously fey’ has me intrigued! Very excited to try this one when it becomes available in the US. I have not had the opportunity to try other Ormond Jayne fragrances, but look forward to remedying that. I am in Georgia, US.

  • Trinity33 says:

    Ida gave a great primer on oak moss. I know it’s one of the notes that has run up against IFRA regulations. I have some vintage perfume with the real deal and it is exceptional. Evernia sounds like a wonderful ode to the oak moss of yore. Favorite OJ is Woman. Commenting from MD, USA.

  • Ruth says:

    Ida has a way of sucking me right in. And truthfully, it wouldn’t take much when Ormonde Jayne is concerned. OJ is the one house where every scent works wonderfully on my skin. Evernia’s notes read like a perfume wishlist for me…Like Ida, I have a whole dryad fantasy existence as well. If I can’t grow up to be a dragon, then I’d happily settle with fey. I live in the USA midwest…my favorite OJ is always a tie between Tolu and Woman.

  • Jurate says:

    Thank you Ida, now I have a better understanding of oakmoss itself. The perfume and Ida’s description sounds very intriguing. Sadly I don’t own any of the fragrances of the Ormonde Jayne yet.
    Many thanks, UK

  • RonaldJ says:

    Thanks for the review Ida!

    As a fan of Chypres, Fougeres and Green fragrances, I am not stranger to Oakmoss. Autumn and Spring are my favorite seasons for these types of fragrances. The fresh outdoors, with frequent changes in weather conditions makes the outdoors a wonderful place for the senses.

    I loved your comparisons with Dryads and Feys. It matches the theme of Evernia perfectly. Well played as well!

    I have not tried any of Ormonde Jayne’s fragrances yet, but would love to try them.

    Greetings from the UK!

  • Dosva says:

    Love Ida’s description and always enjoy it! Now, not exception.
    Especially it was very interesting read about Evernia prunastri and as chypre lover I am very disappointed with restrictions to fully use moss in perfumes.
    I am very excited about this perfume reading Ida’s reviews. This perfume is very rich! Hope I can get it in my collection.
    UK, London

  • Helida says:

    This sounds absolutely delicious as so many of Ormonde Jayne’s creations. Ida’s writing is captivating and her dryad comment transported me to Greek mythology series that we happily read with our children.

  • yvree says:

    I love to hear that If thinks this will be a great all season oakmoss scent. Eager to try and impatient for a 2022 release date. Very muchbhoping to get a chance to sample another Ormonde Janye creation and super excited for the oakmoss/chypre take

  • Bryant Worley says:

    I really enjoyed Ida’s breakdown of the fragrance: “A profoundly woody/musky base awaits; in the capable hands of the perfumer, it is consistently tenacious without smelling leaden, marrying the highly unexpected qualities of persistence + airiness. Evernia’s perfumed plinth is composed of heavy-hitters which are multifaceted and malleable: staples such as Cashmeran® (IFF) provide a velvety woody musk which complements florals; Iso-E Super® (IFF), a creamy, ambergris-like woody floralcy redolent of fine cedar; sandalwood and musk are accented with the sweet myrrh opoponax. The drydown is simply stunning, a masterpiece of refinement and subtlety which lingers indefinitely, a veil of scented secrecy and intrigue.”

    I live in Waldorf, Maryland, USA and, embarrassingly I must state that I have never tried an Ormonde Jayne fragrance. The one I want to try though, is Montabaco.

  • Old Herbaceous says:

    I love oakmoss and am eager to try this, but the words dryadic and fey in this review really caught my eye and made me even more interested! My favorite Ormonde Jayne is Ta’if, such a beautiful rose. I live in the US, thanks for doing this.

  • drewactor says:

    I love Ormonde Jayne as well and agree they blending of fragrances is wonderful. I really enjoy oakmoss and I am glad they are adding that missing ingredient into their offerings. Sounds like they use some thier best hit notes to make this which you make sound spectacular. Thanks for the draw. I am in VA, USA.

  • Brian says:

    Oakmoss is definitely one of my favorite ingredients in perfumery, and I appreciate learning more about it and alternatives/substitutes for it. I’m intrigued to try this fragrance because of the ingredients (I want to familiarize myself with them), and because I’ve never tried any fragrance release from Geza Schoen or Ormonde Jayne. I live in MD., U.S.A.

  • bennybennyta says:

    I would like to enter the giveaway, I am from US. Its been a long time after the ban on using oakmoss as a note. Hopefully I can win.

  • wallygator88 says:

    Thanks for the great review Ida.

    Of course, I love that you gave us the botanical name for oakmoss! I absolutely love the use of cassis in this fragrance. It’s such an interesting fragrance material.

    I would love the chance to get my nose on this.

    Cheers from WI, USA

  • Bubeto_GG says:

    “However, one may view it, oakmoss is a staple in the perfumer’s palette: there may be a number of extant so-called chypres sans oakmoss available, but they don’t move me the way that the real deal does.”

    YES 100%
    Somehow Ida Meister latest reviews are bringing me to my childhood days , I used to love running in our neighbors huge colorful garden .It actually happened again today.
    From EverniaI’m expecting modern take on a classic , with gender-free philosophy. Oakmoss is not a masculine note , like some believe.
    Evernia is special sensual fragrance .The overall impression of soft flowers , orris , sandalwood , with the unmistakable aroma of oakmoss is calling me
    From the 6-7 Ormonde Jayne I have smelled , Tolu is the best one. The bigger 120ml bottle is back in my collection
    Cafleurebon, Ida , Ormonde Jayne, thank you.
    Since I go back and forth between USA and Scotland, two weeks in US – > two weeks in Scotland, and so on , basically both ,
    I’d like to enter for the 50 ml bottle of Evernia

  • sephrenia300 says:

    Fabulous review Ida! What I enjoyed most about the review is how Ida describes it as dryad-like – fleetfooted, eldritch, eerie, and wild. Considering how much I love green fragrances, mythology and feminism, and considering that Papillion’s Dryad is one of my favorite fragrances EVER, that description and comparison makes me really eager to try Evernia!

    I live in the US. My favorite Ormonde Jayne fragrance is Nawab of Oudh – a lovely spiced rose oud, but with an unusual dark greenery blended into the opening. Very lovely and sophisticated, but with an air of darkness.

  • Andrei Artimon says:

    Ida describing Ormonde Jayne Evernia as being one of the finest perfumes she has smelled in 2021 is indeed high praise. Unfortunately, I haven’t tried anything by Ormonde Jayne, yet, but would love to. I especially liked when Ida says – “Ormonde Jayne Evernia plays nicely into my dryad fantasies. It feels fleet-footed, light of being and perhaps a touch talismanic as well; there’s something deliciously fey about it. I can’t imagine a season Evernia doesn’t suit: it insinuates its way into your good graces with sophisticated stealth.” Ormonde Jayne Evernia seems to be a lovely perfume, and I am intrigued by it. Thanks for the review and draw. I am in the USA.