Onskad 30’ Review (Léa Hiram) 2021 + Once Upon A Time In America draw

January 12, 2022January 12, 2022

Sergio Leone Once Upon a Time in America famous Manhattan bridge (1984) – Onskad 30 bottle ©Onskad – montage ©Emmanuelle Varron

Onskad is a brand founded by of Virginie Dhoye who collaborates with three exceptional women: Léa Hiram (perfumer), Isabelle Bonnal (storyteller) and Monica Lind (illustrator). Onskad is a word derived from a combination of syllables in Swedish, meaning “the realization of a dream.” The vision was to dedicate fragrances linked to eras in contemporary history but adding modern twists: 30′ for the 1930s, 50′ for the 1950s and 80′ for the 1980s. Launched just a few months ago, Onskad offers a retrospective collection of three perfumes with names that speak for themselves: Onskad 30 ’, Onskad 50’ and Onskad 80″; three decades dear to founder Virginie Dhoye.

Onskad team (from left to right) founder Virginie Dhoye, perfumer Léa Hiram, storyteller Isabelle Bonnal and illustrator Monica Lind – pictures via Onskad – Collage ©Emmanuelle Varron

Just a few words about the flacons. Rectangular and black, they are adorned with illustrations reminiscent of the silhouettes found in women’s magazines, echoing the visuals of each decade. The ultimate touch of sophistication? Each perfume has its own unique cap, again a nod to the specific time period.

Onskad 30’, Onskad 50’ and Onskad 80’ – bottles ©Onskad – Collage ©Emmanuelle Varron

Onskad 50’ is a tribute to the post-war years and evokes Old Hollywood actresses and sophistication. I immediately think of Grace Kelly, Alfred Hitchcock’s muse and Princess of Monaco.

Onskad 80′ pays homage to the 80s. Madonna, Cher, and Grace Jones might have worn this over the top perfume.

Onskad 30’ refers to the 1930s and is a complex composition, at the same time woody, tobacco, leathery, floral, balmy and powdery. Onskad 30’ is gender fluid with a little muscle and yet tremendous charm. Imagine a Cuban cigar dangling from a woman with vermilion red lips. I am immediately transported into one of Sergio Leone Once upon a time in America key scenes, where Max (James Woods) leads the character of Noodles (Robert de Niro), just released from prison, in the Speakeasy belonging to their gang. Noodles reunites with Patsy (James Hayden), Cockeye (William Forsythe), the other members of the gang; Peggy (Amy Rider), who seduced men for favors. Fat Moe (Larry Rapp) now manager of the clandestine bar… and his longtime secret love Rebecca (Elizabeth McGovern). Women wear short hair, shorts dresses and flaunt their sensuality and independence. Cigar smoke swirls and all is hazy.

Cheers to Onskad! – screenshots from Sergio Leone movie Once Upon a Time in America – montage and collage ©Emmanuelle Varron

Onskad 30’s opening is unquestionably woody, with birch blending with bergamot, amyris and sandalwood. The opening may seem masculine to some but it is perfectly gender fluid. Smooth sandalwood softens the top notes , to gradually offset the animalic and balmy facets of the styrax. This is the turning point of this perfume that invites duality: the castoreum and tobacco then come together yet the woody notes linger. These two raw materials with their strong scent profiles give way to sensual and warm amber aspects, which transports me into the world of Speakeasys. I imagine myself leaning on the bar, smoking my cigar as the bartender looks on in amazement. He offers me a drink, then two. My cigar reaches its last third, the best, the one which encompasses all its complexity and richness. This is analogous to the deft blending and beautiful balance that Léa Hiram achieves in Onskad 30’ where floral and powdery notes of rose, iris and violet mingle with the woody smoky accord. I am reminded of androgynous vintage perfumes such CARON Tabac Blond and MOLINARD Habanita.

Onskad 30’ is a marvel to wear, especially during the winter as it evokes comfort, warmth and a sensuality; playing both on the masculine and feminine codes of perfumery.

Notes: bergamot, powdery notes, amber, violet leaf, rose, tobacco notes, styrax, castoreum, amyris wood, sandalwood, birch.

Disclaimer: A huge “merci” to Virginie Doyle, founder of Onskad for the discovery set provided for this review. The opinions expressed are my own.

Emmanuelle Varron, Editor

Thanks to Onskad, we have a 100 ml bottle of Onskad 30’ and a discovery set of Oskad 30, 50 and 80 for one registered reader in US, UK and EU. To be eligible, please leave a comment on what you enjoyed about the Emmanuelle’s review and where you live. Draw closes 01/15/2022.

Available on Onskad website.

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