Olfactive Studio Woody Mood (Bertrand Duchaufour) 2017~New Perfume Review + Fragrance as Art Draw

Girl in the Woods,Vincent Van Gogh,1882

Art is an act of translation, transmuting emotion, objects, scenes, even the incorporeality of dreams, into mediums that communicate across languages. When art is inspired by itself  – think of Verdi’s Macbeth, Rodin’s sculpture of Dante’s Gates of Hell – it transforms again. In the hands of a master, that translation may even exceed the beauty of the original. Such is the case with Woody Mood from Olfactive Studio.

Celine Verleure at Esxence 2017 (Photo Michelyn)

Woody Mood, introduced at Esxence in March, was inspired by a photo that caught Creative Director Celine Verleure’s attention at a Paris art exhibition.

Redwood Alien, Roger Steffens 1973

Titled Redwood Alien, the picture was taken by journalist, actor and photographer Roger Steffens in 1973. Steffen’s photo shows a solitary female figure, dwarfed by the surrounding redwoods,  as she walks off her path and towards the splintered haze filtering through the sequoias. Behind her, an overexposure of sunlight imposes an object that resembles a halo or flying saucer. Master perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour, the nose behind Woody Mood, and Mme. Verleure were not merely inspired by Redwood Alien: they rendered it in scent. It is a sumptuous perfume of many layers, with deep aromas of woods, smoke, resins and roots, shot through with a brilliant shaft of citrus. And it is, to my mind, Olfactive Studio’s best work to date.

Orange Woods, Lynn Morgan, 2010©

The light, the trees, the color and shape of the halo, even its touch of strangeness – all find their way into Woody Mood. The first notes are a whoosh of deep forest: cut wood, bark, the damp, vegetal smell of tree vine. But within a few seconds, these dense, foggy notes are cut through with a brilliant shaft of olfactory light: a piercingly bright bergamot, heightened by the sharpness of young ginger. The perfume turns golden orange in seeming replication of the halo’s color.

Transmigration of Souls, photo by Stefan Thaler©

Next, smoky aromas come in – black tea and incense – and the composition shifts into fumy dusk. Where the opening was the introduction to the dominant images – trees and halo — this stage is about the light, the way it seemingly absorbs into the shadows around its many beams. The smokiness is never tarry or tobacco-inflected, but more like a distant aroma of a recently burnt leaf pile. It quiets the bergamot and ginger as incense brings in a more contemplative feeling. Somehow, the aroma of the tea gives a sense of moisture, like the damp forest floor. That vinous smell I picked up in the opening returns, a bit more herbal than vegetal now, and I can detect the presence of sage.

From Women Dressed in the Shadows of Nature series, photo by Emilio Jimenez

As Woody Mood matures, incense merges with the different wood notes that begin to come forward then fall back, the way foliage shadows do when the wind shakes them. An idiosyncratic aroma creeps in here that is partly sweet, partly astringent, which I take to be a paring of cocoa powder layering on top of the bergamot. In the dry-down, the burnished and vibrant notes splash off each other like wet light. The bergamot-ginger never entirely recedes, but balances against the woods, resin and smoke. In its final stages, Woody Mood is the lovely sum of everything that came before: smoky, woody, with aspects of green leaves, sharp fruit, roots and resins, but all in equilibrium. This may be my favourite wood perfume since CDG/Monocle Hinoki.

Steffens’ image conveys the singularity of the natural world, hinting at unknowable possibilities as its sole human wanders into one mystery with another behind her. If she breathed in deeply as she stepped off her path, she might recognize Woody Mood as the scent surrounding her, forever suspended in that strange light.

Notes: Bergamot, Ginger, Clary Sage, Safran, Accord Sequoïa, Jatamansi, Black tea, Incense Patchouli, Styrax, Accord Leather, Cocoa powder

Disclaimer: I received my sample from Olfactive Studio – many thanks. My opinions are my own.

Lauryn Beer, Senior Editor

Woody Mood Photo by Ermano Picco

Thanks to the generosity of Celine and Olfactive Studio, we have an avant premier 100 ml bottle of Woody Mood for 1 registered reader in the U.S., Europe or Canada (valued at $195). It will be available for sale September 2017. Please be sure to register or your comment will not count. To be eligible, leave a comment on what appealed to you about Woody Mood based on Lauryn’s review, where you live and whether you have a favourite Olfactive Studio perfume. Draw closes 7/23/17.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so likCafleurebon and use our RSS Feed… or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

 

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43 comments

  • marcopietro says:

    “deep aromas of woods, smoke, resins and roots, shot through with a brilliant shaft of Citrus”, It’s impossible to me resist to those words, Add that behind the new Olfactive Studio fragrance there is Duchaufour and this makes Woody Mood a magnet for my senses. My favorite perfume of this brand is Panorama.
    I live in EU.
    Thanks!

  • Woody Mood must have a complex aroma from the description. I find myself attracted by the damp and vegetal notes which emerge from the scent, although the main character is played by the smokiness as it seems.
    I never tried an olfactive Studio perfume, and I hope to have a chance now.
    I live in Europe.
    Thank you.

  • I am a avid hiker and camper. I love the smell of forest.
    The damp earth and trees….is very peaceful.

    I have not tried anything from this house, but would certainly love too try this.

    In USA.

  • Bergamote-ginger combos are beautiful, often the ginger dissapates to soon so I am glad it remains a participant throughout this fragrance. I have tried Flash Back from this perfumer and it really did remind me of the 80’s and the great, larger than life fun we had back then. I live in the US.

  • Spices, earthy notes and cocoa – sounds incredibly beautiful. I’ve never tried anything from this fragrance house. I’d love to get a sample of this if I don’t win.
    I live in the U.S.

  • Along with the stunning photograph which inspired this perfume, Lauryn’s review really brings the forest to mind. Likening the changing scent profiles to an interplay of light and shadows, smoke and dampness brings the reader into a redwood forest. I live in the US.

  • In its final stages it is the lovely sum (synergy) of all that came before.
    Great review Lauryn. I’m inspired by the women in perfume and the beautiful contributions that they bring to the olfactory experience.

  • roxhas1cat says:

    I love to go to the redwood forests. What a beautiful photo it is based on. Makes me want to run to the forest. I am not familiar with this line, but excited to hear the opinion that this is their best to date. I love incense fragrances and cocoa is always an interesting note in my view. The article makes Woody Mood sound like a walk in the forest. A great Escape for us city dwellers. Thanks for the always interesting reviews. I live in th US.

  • Woa this sounds amazing obviously what appeals to me about review is the introduction to this beautiful sounding fragrance its got a bunch of my favorite notes,big fan of incense..man i need to win and try this.

    Fav Ol.St. fragrances chambre noire, still life in rio

    Canada here !,ty for review and giveaway

  • BostonScentGuy says:

    Loving the sound of undergrowth, black tea and licorice, and “the best woody perfume since Hinoki!” Sounds like a lot to love from this review. I really like the concept of Olfactive Studio, and love the aesthetics and smell of the one inspired by that really white picture (was it just called Blanche?) and the smell of Chambre Noire. Thanks for the draw! I’m in the US.

  • The photo is gorgeous and I can see how it would have inspired this. I love woods and am a fan of Duchaufour’s, though I’ve never yet tried any perfumes from this line (yet). I live in Canada and thank you for the generous draw.

  • Systeme D says:

    I’m already a huge fan of Olfactive Studio, and my bottles of Still Life and Still Life in Rio are getting lower and lower! Still Life in Rio in particular has been my go-to on the hottest days this summer!

    It sounds like Woody Mood will be precisely the right fragrance to help me move into autumn. And “the best woody perfume since Hinoki” is an incredible endorsement! And to me, the persistence of the bergamot-ginger accord is quite a draw as well.

    The “partly sweet, partly astringent” juxtaposition that Lauryn identifies is exactly what I love about Olfactive Studio’s line.

    I’ll be getting my hands on this one for sure, one way or another!

  • Described above has a perfume of many layers I’d love to have this for the coming winter. Chambre Noire has been a favorite but many are lovely. US

  • fazalcheema says:

    I must admit I also love the picture ALien Mood that inspired Woody Mood. It was a great decision to choose Bertrand Duchaufour because he has created many woody scents in this mode. My favorite Olfactive Studio creation is Still Life that is yuzu-centered and perfect for summer. I am in the US.

  • Iuno Feronia says:

    I am addicted to creations of Bertrand Duchaufour and I would like to have this perfect autumn scent. I live in the EU, thnaks for the draw!

  • kaitracid says:

    I’m in the mood for wood! Cut wood, bergamot, incense and all other elements from the description are calling my name; I surely love a woody fragrance. Haven’t tried anything from Olfactive Studio and this perfume sounds very good. Thanks for the draw, I live in EU.

  • Laurentiu says:

    The notes sound really intriguing. I am curious how the combination of incense, cocoa powder and tea would perform on my skin. Overall, it looks like Woody Mood would be a great perfume for this autumn. Also, I have never tried anything from Olfactive Studio before and it looks like this particular creation would be a great starting point to begin my discovery journey of this house.

    I live in EU. Thanks for the draw!

  • gregorysop says:

    The inspiration for this fragrance is a beautiful photo of sun beams coming through the trees. I love when photos capture light in this fashion and if they can capture this essence in a fragrance that would be wondrous. I have had the pleasure of owning Flashback from this company and it was an excellent one.
    From USA

  • Although woods are not the first perfumes I turn to, they tend to smell really nice on me. This one seems to have a lot of elements I like: the woods, the tea and incense. Lauryn’s description gives it many layers. I have not tried anything by this house. USA. Thanks for the review.

  • Adam Spytma says:

    Having spent a good deal of time in the California redwoods, I feel comforted by rich, woody scents. The description and notes of this perfume sound like comfort in a bottle.

  • That photo by Robert Steffens is truly magnificent. The review really was very detailed on how the fragrance Woody Mood (not a great name just saying)smells. My favorite from Olfactive Studio is Panorama, I love how green it is. Since I like wood perfumes and what an endorsement this one gets here I know I would like it. Either way I will be sure to check it out.
    USA

  • Very nice review. I have never tried anything from this brand, but I have read about it many nice things. This perfume sounds very interesting base of the review. Thank you for the draw. I live in Europe.

  • Tom Schroeder says:

    What appeals to me most about Woody Mood is Lauryn’s description of black tea and incense reminiscent of a burning leaf pile. Growing up in Michigan, in the fall we burnt great piles of maple and walnut leaves, and the smoke from that brings back happy memories filled with scents and excitement from glowing bonfires at dusk, bringing anticipation of the newly started school year, including high school football, classes, and friends.

    Although I don’t know much about Olfactive Studios, a look at their website descriptions of fragrances and the perfumer profiles is quite impressive. I live in San Jose, California.

  • Great review! Woody Mood sounds like something very much for me – smoky tea, incense, cocoa, bergamot is what I really like.
    I have not tried anything from this perfume house. Thank you for the chance! I live in Europe

  • Raufkibeh says:

    What is not to like about a smokey, incense and bergamot. This is my kind of fragrance. I would love to try this one. I havent tried anything from this house but its in “my to buy list”. I live in the US.

  • NiceVULady says:

    This fragrance is for me.!!! Everything about this review peaked my interest and made me want to get this. I’ve not tried anything from Olfactive Studios, but this fragrance would definitely make me supremely interested. Thanks so much for the draw. I live in the USA

  • most of all I liked this phraze: “opening was the introduction to the dominant images – trees and halo — this stage is about the light, the way it seemingly absorbs into the shadows around its many beams”. Very nice and mysterious.
    i like Olfactive studio’s line. But unfortunatly many of its have bad longevity on my skin.
    Most of all I like Close Up and Chambre Noir.
    USA, DE

  • Haven’t tried anything from Olfactive Studio yet
    I like the Bergamot and Ginger
    Hopefully I can try this out and own a bottle
    Thank You ✌

  • Elizabeth T. says:

    I find it interesting that the tea and smoke represents the light in the development. I’d love to smell how this comes to fruition. Lauryn mentions Hinoki, which was a love of mine as well. And the imagery… seems spot on. Thank you for this read and for letting us know about this one! I love the concept behind this line but haven’t smelled any of them to date. I’m in the USA. Thank you!

  • Oh my god, this is literally me, I mean even without testing, I can almost say, it is going to be one of my favorite woody scents already, for sure! I am for long a wood head, I like woody scents in all forms, dry, light and subtle, creamy and sensual, or smoky and dark, all my cuppa tea, with incense, leather, resins or gourmand, Tam Dao, Gucci PH I , Tumulte Pour Homme, La Fumee Series and so many gorgeous woody beauties I truly adore and hug to sleep. I cannot even believe this is real, it’s created by Bertrand Duchaufour? And it’s from Olfactive Studio? Holy C@#p! I really don’t know what’s the reason not to own or at least sample this one, what most appeals me from the review is that picture, it’s always nice to get a peep at the background or the inspiration for a certain scent, it surely aids people perceiving the scent with better information and context, and understand then appreciate the work more with due depth.
    Furthermore, the notes listed and the perfumer almost got me sold on whatever it’s offering! A must try for this year, high hopes!
    Good job Cafleurebon, this is a real scoop and it’s spot on!
    Houston Texas here, really looking forward!!!

  • I still know very badly the all Olfactive studio line. I have just once smelled “Panorama”, which I find nice but need to smell again, and “Close Up”, which I dislike for personnal tastes.

    So I can’t say I have a favorite for now. I need to discover the complete line in the near future.

    I absolutely need to smell this one because I love the notes (smoke, resins, incense, …) and this kind of mood/ambiance… Moreover, it seems to be one of the best if not the best of the line, according to Lauryn the reviewer!

    I live in Europe. Thanks for the draw!

  • I enjoyed the writers connection of notes and the story of the photo tells. Great imagery. I am intrigued by the contrast of dark and light. I would love to try this fragrance, as I am a fan of both Dachaufour and Olfactive. My favorite is Selfie, I live in US.

  • An interesting concept taken from a photograph of light through the trees and into the forest floor. I have not smelled any from this house of Olfactive Studio… Through watching the reviews through the years the name has come up many times! I do Live in the US. THANK YOU

  • I am a photographer so the description of Bertrand Duchaufour producing a fragrance for Olfactive Studio that was inspired by a photographer from my generation intrigues me. Perhaps Bertrand Duchaufour would like one of my images to build a perfume from. LOL! I must admit that I have only smelled this brand once when vacationing in SanFrancisco several years ago, but from what I remember I was quite impressed with Autoportrait, another woody scent. I am embarrased to say, but I had blown my fragrance budget elsewhere before I discovered this scent or I would have surely bought it. The notes in this creation ticks all the boxes for notes I like and Bertrand Duchaufour is a master who I always respect. Sequoia? Oh, yes! Living in the West of the United States I adore this smell of nature and the note is so rarely used. I would be thrilled to have this scent.

  • Spices, earthy notes and cocoa – sounds incredibly beautiful. I’ve never tried anything from this fragrance house. I’d love to get a sample of this if I don’t win.
    I live in the U.S.

  • I am a big fan of well made woody perfumes and this one sounds so promising from the Lauryn’s review and the last part seals it for me: “This may be my favorite wood perfume since CDG/Monocle Hinoki.”. I so want to smell this one, although I’ve never tested the brand. I live in Europe.

  • Panorama is one of my favorites from Olfactive Studio! Woody perfumes are fantastic when they are beautifully made and the smokiness / earthy – damp notes are enhancing the feeling of really being out in the forest for a walk! Thank you for the draw, i’n in the UK

  • I love the whole concept of olfactive studio. I really perceive perfumery as an art and links between it and other art forms are interesting and complex. That’s also why I love reading Cafleurebon, the reviews draw lines between paint, photography, music and perfumery, revealing rich associations. Love it! And love woody perfumes! Thanks for the draw. I am in France.

  • I love the light aspects and the comparison to the picture RedwoodAlien. In fact to the redwoods, we may seem alien.
    I’m in NYC and my favorite is Ombré Indigo, followed by Still Life.
    This one sounds amazing! Thank you for the opportunity.

  • ntabassum92 says:

    I like the description of the woods being shot through with citrus. The woody/citrus/GINGER combo sounds delightful, I love the scent of ginger with citrus especially. I am in the US. I have never tried an Olfactive Studio perfume, so thanks for the chance!

  • Hikmat Sher Afridi says:

    Great photographer, Great photos, Great review, Great Nose and Great Woody perfume. It’s appealing as smoky, woody, with aspects of green leaves, sharp fruit, roots and resins, but all in equilibrium.
    Thanks to the generosity of Celine & Olfactive Studio and CafleureBon for the opportunity by letting my relative/son-in-law address in US/Canada.

  • BlessedTA says:

    Great review and photos.

    I love the description of the perfume and wood note.

    Thanks for the chance, I’m in Canada.