New Perfume Reviews: Parfumeurs du Monde ~ Agua Nativa (Michel Roudnitska), Kashi (Isabelle Gellé), Izwe (Perrine Scandel), Tsingy (Thierry Bernard) Tzundha (Jean-Claude & Eric Gigodot) + Coeur de Forêt Draw

Michel Roudnitska, Isabelle Gellé, Thierry Bernard, Perrine Scandel, Eric Gigodot

'Parfumeurs du Monde'' is the work-of-art resulting from a beautiful collaboration between six French perfumers who care about the planet, use 100% natural essences in compliance with Parfumeurs du Monde charter and with ethics in mind (a percentage of the profits is given to Coeur de Forêt, a NGO supporting small producers for the rehabilitation of forests). I have been following a shining light- a spark ignited by an email and subsequent posting here at CaFleureBon about six French perfumers who were gathering to create a line of all natural perfumes. Two of these perfumers are no strangers to me; Michel Roudnitska's work with Invocation is phyto-medicinal aesthetics at its finest and Isabelle Gellé and I have orbited many discussions around natural perfumery. The six perfumers draw inspiration for this collection from their love of naturals and travels:

Digital art by MC patchouli

 Kashi, Light essence of India was composed by Isabelle Gellé,  a creative perfumer who has led the way for the use of 100% natural raw materials in perfumes in the United Kingdom. She established Les Parfums d'Isabelle, in 2006 and is inspired by her famous ancestors, the Paris perfume house of Gellé Frères founded in 1826 and by her many travels worldwide, supporting small-scale essential oils distillers to source high quality raw materials.  

Isabelle has chosen India and the ingredient Patchouli (Pogostemon cablin), a plant used extensively in incenses and to perfume shawls in India. Patchouli is one of the rare oils that cannot be substituted or reproduced and that becomes better with age. In the Indian tradition of meditation, patchouli helps to connect with the natural beauty of planet Earth.

oil on canvas painted by artist layarajamo

Kashi is a personal interpretation of patchouli, symbol of pashmina and elegance of the Indian woman so that lovers of patchouli rediscover its musky and earthy facet and those who do not understand it learn to appreciate it. Patchouli was the flagship perfume of the 1970's and of the hippy movement. It is part of the vivid memories of the perfumer's teenage years. With Kashi, Isabelle Gellé surprises lovers and haters of patchouli, wrapping it with velvety and powdery notes to pay tribute to its elegance and illuminated presence. 

Painting by Raja Ravivarma

The sun dried garden in the heat of summer which brings a golden hue usually saved for the freeze dried crispness of fall. Herbal yellowing of petals of unknown former hue now gilded by heatstroke. Something green clings to a baked earth, blanketing barrier between the garden and grave. Waves of heat blur the scent of both patchouli and an animal beyond the tall grasses. Cooling brings a sweetened patchouli to shroud the savannah sun so shaman may come to play. Notes: fennel, iris root,yellow hibiscus, licorice, black pepper, patchouli, osmanthus indian jasmine, amber, peach note, Ylang, vanilla,white musk,  Indian Sandalwood

AGUA NATIVA by Michel Roudnitska: Michel Roudnitska is a Master perfumer and gifted son of Edmond Roudnitska, one of the world most famous contemporary perfumers of all time. Through his company, Art & Parfum, Michel continues the family tradition, focusing on 'independent perfumery' and working mainly with 'artistic houses'. He is the creator of  Frederic Malle Noir Epices  which was our first ever perfume review on CaFleureBon and Michel was  responsible for  bringing Le Parfum de Thérèse, his father posthumous masterpiece to Frederic Malle (you can read Michel’s story for CaFleureBon of  this creation here) . He has also composed memorable fragrances for Parfums Delrae, Ellie D  Grandiflora (Madagascan Jasmine and Magnolia Garndiflora MichelHors  La Monde  and l'Aigle Bleu.

Shaman by Pablo Amaringo

Michel has chosen Peru and the ingredient Piri-piri (Cyperus articulatus), a native marshland plant grown in Amazonia. The Shipibos from Peru use piri-piri to compose love potions. Agua Nativa is a 'ceremonial perfume' used in healing rituals by the Shipibos Indian tribe of Amazonia.

Cyperus articulatus L. piri piri

It is inspired by sacred plants of the Amazonia forest such as Piri-piri and Palo Santo of which the Shipibos have learnt to extract the essential oils as part of a project led by the NGO, Coeur de Forêt. This allows the Shipibos to continue living in their natural environment while preserving their precious ancient traditions. Notes: mint, basil, grapefruit, ylang, orange, lemon pettitigrain, geranium, clove, cinnamon, palo santo piri piri, patchouli, vetiver, vanilla

Bucchu photo via afropolitan

 

Izwe, sacred land of the Zulus by Perrine Scandel: Mme. Scandel has nearly three decades of experience in the aromatic industry, in the creation and the development of raw materials. Her love for aromas led her to delve into and develop aromatic raw materials focusing on naturals for the flavour and fragrance industry. Mme. Perrine is currently the director in the city of Grasse of the German natural aroma ingredients company; Axxence Aromatic.  For Les Parfumeurs du monde, she has chosen South Africa and the ingredient Bucchu (Agathosma betulina), a shrub from the citrus trees family, endemic to the Western Cape Mountains of South Africa.

Marietje Henning

Bucchu is considered a sacred plant for the Khoesan tribe who sees it as a vessel for potent force with a role in healing. According to their tradition, bucchu is used in ointments and perfumes to carry fertility in women and to invigorate the body in order to open the senses to transfer power. From the scent of the soil bathed by the sun to the fizzy fragrances of citrus fruit; from heady notes of sandalwood and patchouli to the fruity ones of bucchu or the subtle notes of leather, all the way through to the multiple aromas of the savannah, Izwe is a natural perfume depicting the ancestral and contemporary identity of South Africa. 

South Africa Isabel Leroux

Camphorous fruit hang heavy among leathery foliage, tart above orange tipped verdant grasses. Warming woods ripen these citrus as light strikes and peculiar petals begin to add their floral songs to the ubiquitous unseen morning cacophony of glorious birds. Notes: Bitter Almond, grapefruit, bucchu, davana, geranium, jasmine, sage, rose, blackcurrant buds, amyris, tuberose, patchouli, labdanum

Thierry Bernard

TSINGY the Princess who walks on tiptoes by Thierry Bernard: Thierry Bernard is a perfumer with 25 years’ experience and a recognized nose by the French society of perfumers. After graduating with a pHd in chemistry specialized in oil refining and essential oils distillation, Thierry moved to the island of Martinique in the French Caribbean where he became renowned as 'The Perfumer', importing aromatic raw materials, extracting essential oils from the West Indies and creating an exotic and island perfume line 'Nature & Parfums' under his company, Tropic'Arom.  Since 2010, Thierry has established his perfume lab in the South of France and through his one-of-a-kind concept 'myfragrance.fr', he shares his passion for perfumes & raw materials and strives to educate people to develop their sense of smell.

Paul Jacoulet Fleurs du Soir

M. Bernard has chosen Madagascar and the ingredient Ylang ylang (Cananga odorata), a flower highly cultivated on this big island nation. To avoid potential issues of adulteration, Thierry works directly in collaboration with a local ylang ylang cooperative on the island of Nosy Be (the scented island).

Societe des Produits a Parfums De Madagascar

Malagasy people use ylang ylang in coconut oil to protect their skin against the harshness of the climate and sun. They traditionally believe that ylang ylang protects them against evil and brings love into their life. Notes: Pink Pepper, Kaffir Lime, lime, ginger, red mandarin, frangipani, ylang, vanilla, tonka bean, exotic basil, elemi, patchouli and vetiver 

Jean Claude Gigodot 

TUNDZHA slavic cuddle of Rose Damascena by Jean-Claude and Eric Gigodot (father and son): Jean-Claude Gigodot is an internationally renowned perfumer who created the perfume ranges of Au Pays de la fleur d'oranger, Swiss Cowboy for Richard Luscher Britos, Maison Incens and Shantara. He met Jean-Claude Ellena in the 1970's and together with Lucien Ferrero, they worked on new ideas about perfumery including reducing the quantity of raw materials to  no more than 400 considered essential for creation. They developed the principle of 'less is more' (no more than 60 ingredients in a perfume) and of the perfumer being able to carry out both the functions of sales and creation. In 1994, Jean-Claude established Sentaromatique, manufacturing aromatic bases for perfumes and functional perfumery. Eric Gigodot follows the path of his father and works in his father's company in charge of raw materials purchases. Having been involved in all the facets of the perfumery industry including production, logistics, buying, quality control and GCMS analysis for 13 years, Eric has an excellent and versatile knowledge of raw materials which allow him to focus on creation. In 2016, he established his service company Parfumance with a view to offer his services as both a creator and technician in the perfumery industry.

Wine and roses the Persian monarch Karim Khan Zand and an Ottoman Turkish ambassador 

For Les Parfumeurs du monde collection, Mssrs. Gigodot have chosen Bulgaria and the ingredient Rose Damascena (Rosa Damascena), the symbol flower of Bulgaria, cultivated in the region of Kazanlak, the famous Rose Valley. The first rose Damascena is thought to have arrived from Turkey when Bulgaria was part of the Ottoman empire in the 16th century. With 350 years tradition, the Bulgarian rose is recognised for its high quality and is almost eternal.

Richard  Johnson Rose symphony

This natural fragrance, rich with passion, sensitivity and emotion depicts a romantic and scented stroll in the heart of central Europe valleys. It evokes both the subtle delicacy of the Rose Damascena and freedom and liveliness thanks to the presence of wild spices including cardamom and clove which lead to a sensual trail of the noble wood of santal and of patchouli. Notes: Mandarin, Grapefruit, lavender, geranium, ylang, frankincense, sandalwood and vanilla

 

It would be very easy for anyone familiar with my writing and personal beliefs, to think to themselves that I always write that perfume could change the world; this mantra becomes reborn, manifest in the charter of Parfumeurs du Monde- as in addition to supporting the indigenous peoples who harvest the raw materials, proceeds are then redirected to Cœur de Fôret, which ensures the air we are perfuming will continue to be. It is this redefinition of what makes a company successful which gives power to another such mantra: 'Botanical perfume is the poetry of a political movement.'  So when people speak of the revolution, and make no mistake, love is the revolution- it's business practices will be those which serve those who serve the planet first, and any aesthetic from the native to the alien can be found in the humble ground.

Disclosure: I received samples from Parfumeurs du Monde. Thank you, opinions are my own

 –Einsof, Natural Perfumery Contributor

Editor’s Note and Art Direction: Please do good and smell good, as each 30 ml perfume is 95 Euros and can be purchased online here

Thanks to the generosity of the six perfumers of Parfumeurs du Monde we have a draw for a complete sample set of Aqua Nativa, Iswe, Kashi, Tundz and Tsing for a registered reader click here anywhere in the world. To be eligible please leave a comment with what intrigues you about the concept of Parfumeurs du Monde, why you wear natural perfumes, which may be your favorite, and where you live. Draw closes 1/6/2016

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume

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33 comments

  • What a wondeful idea! I often choose natural perfumes because I like the pure smell of natural essences, unaffected by synthetic (otherwise great smelling) ingredients. I think all of the fragrances from Parfumeurs du Monde must be wonderful, but the one I suppose I would like most is Kashi (I love pashmina shawls). Thank you for the draw. EU.

  • Parfumeurs du Monde sounds like a concept that has true passion behind it, in the hearts and minds of the collaboration. It’s impossible to know how much of an impact can be made on the environment as a whole but certainly for small harvesters and producers in the local areas mentioned, perfume made with such carefully sourced ingredients could have a huge and immediate positive impact. Wonderful diversity in the areas of the world and key ingredients showcased by each perfumer makes it difficult to choose what sounds best, but Tsingy by Thierry Bernard with it’s exotic and tropical scent would be a good escape for the snow and ice bound in January. Thanks for the interesting article and generous offer, I’m in the US.

  • I’ve wanted to try these since I first heard about them! So appreciate your review because my French is not up to snuff and they haven’t translated their website yet – so it’s good to “meet” these perfumes. It would be even better to meet them in person of course so fingers crossed for the draw! I wear natural perfumes because for the most part they feel better just like clean water feels better to drink. I love the rare essences that they have tapped into and how Parfumeurs du Monde seem to really care for the producers of the raw materials not just the end product or end dollar. I would probably wear Agua Nativa the most but I could see Tundzha getting a lot of wear as well. Thanks for the draw!

  • Natural perfumes are exciting because of the variety of new ingredients perfumers create and use instead of synthetics. Parfumeurs du Monde sounds like a wonderful group with a strong sense of ethics. Supporting the people from each part of the world as they harvest the materials that make up the perfumes is also a worthy cause. Iswe is my favorite from the description. I love in the US.

  • I am encouraged by the story of these perfumers coming together to create Perfumeurs du Monde and that each has concentrated on an area of the planet that yields such precious resources. I also love that a percentage of the profits return to the small producers to help rehab forests. I don’t wear naturals exclusively but when I do I feel more directly connected to the ancient art of perfumery, the gifts of the land crafted into something transcendent. AGUA NATIVA by Michel Roudnitska intrigues me the most, as I have such strong scent memories of travels through Central and South America.
    Thank you for the draw and for introducing me to Parfumeurs du Monde and Coeur de Forêt,

  • acquiredtaste says:

    I’m intrigued by the natural concept of Parfumeurs du Monde’s perfumes, I think my favorite may be TUNDZHA. I have not tried natural perfumes. I live in Malaysia.

  • I like the idea that six different people can get together and collaborate to bring attention to areas of the planet that have such resources. I have worn natural fragrances and I find that they make me feel more connected to the natural world than the synthetics. Kashi incorporates patchouli which I really like. Thanks for this draw. I live in the USA.

  • I also like the concept behind Parfumeurs du Monde. What could be better to work with the planet, with nature, and to help people. I prefer natural perfumes because there are more nuances to the fragrance and more depth. I have never ever had any problems with natural fragrances and I do with certain synthetic ingredients and/or mixtures. I really can not chose which perfume would be a favorite. They all interest me. US

  • Wonderful review. I very love natural perfumes. Those are so special, comforting and calming. In my opinion these perfumes are all sounds very good, I could not chose only one. I live in Europe. Thank you for the chance.

  • I’d surely love Agua Nativa and all of the others as well. I am touched by this gentle and thoughtful approach to natural resources. This is what I’d love to see in every perfume brand.

    (EU)

  • This is a wonderful story that these Perfumers created perfumes to help indigenous people and used ingredients from each area
    I love patchouli so Isabelle may have created my favorite
    Each perfumer used such interesting materials I never heard of piri piri or bucchu
    I love natural perfumes and they are hard to find in my country in Poland

  • fazalcheema says:

    I like the concept of Parfumeurs du Monde because it has been inspired by love for the planet and a certain percentage of the proceeds go towards the rehabilitation of the forests. I am most intrigued by Kashi because it has been inspired by India and moreover, I have not smelled many creations from British natural perfumers before. My fav. may be Kashi. I am in the US.

  • Miss Almond says:

    I sincerely don’t have a favorite one. Each of the scents has something appealing about it, they are so carefully composed and the team of creators is more than impressing.

    I feel closer to nature while wearing natural scents. It makes me more calm and relaxed.

    Thank you for the draw. I live in Europe.

  • DNEM; it is so wonderful to see that the hearts of these perfumers are as beautiful as the fragrances they create.

    What an incredible concept they have created.

  • Marcopietro says:

    Great idea and concept, I’ll do everything is possibile to support that noble initiative that I share in spirit and objective.
    Thanks for your suggestion!
    I live in EU.

  • What intrigues me the most is the use of naturals and use of unique natural ingredients in these compositions. I wear naturals for the authentic smell, less iritating on my skin and less irritating on my sinuses and allergies. Agua Nativa sounds the most appealing to me. Thank you so much for the draw.

  • I find the idea fascinating – create something beautiful and be good to nature at the same time. They all sound amazing, really. If pressed to choose I would go with Agua Nativa or TUNDZHA. I live in Europe. Thank you very much!

  • doveskylark says:

    What a wonderfully written description of these creations. I am so intrigued by the sense of place each one of these fragrances conveys. Natural perfumes inspire me to research the healing benefits of the ingredients. All of the fragrances interest me, especially Kashi with its patchouli.
    I have just recently become interested in natural fragrances. I usually search for vintage perfumes. But I want to branch out and discover what natural perfumers are creating.
    I live in the USA.

  • I love the whole concept: MAster perfumers using natural ingredients to make perfumes which proceeds will fund saving forests. It is very full circle. I find that when I wear natural or mostly natural perfumes I can tell a difference in the way they interact with my body and affect my mood. While synthetic perfumes may smell amazing, they don’t have that uplifting “feel good” factor. I would love to try the creations of these diverse perfumers. USA. Thanks for the story and the draw.

  • Elaine Richard says:

    I love the natural perfumes. They not only uplift me, but I feel happiness while wearing them. Thank you, Parfumeurs du Monde for your conscious use of plants. The Tsingy sounds amazing and I love Madagascar’s ylang-ylang and their vanilla also. I live in California, USA.

  • What a wonderful review!

    Parfumeurs du Monde sends the message that sophisticated natural perfumes are here to stay. I love wearing natural perfumes because I love the raw materials from which they are made. All of the perfumes sounds amazing.

    I live in Los Angeles and thank you for the draw!

  • all natural fragrances smell different than the others. They have something unruly and wild about them, like a pinch of salt in a very sweet dessert, which brings the flavor to a new level.

    I think I’d like Izwe most, with its scent of the soil in the sun. Thank you for the draw. I live in Europe.

  • I love how caring this house is to the environment. I haven’t heard of the house but it sounds very interesting. I’m in Canada and thanks for the draw!

  • cardinalmind says:

    The concept of like minded perfumers working together for a common cause, and ending up creating new fragrance that fits with their objective is what intrigues me. Intriguing because its dealing with natural objects can be tricky, they have certain nuances and differences that either last for a while or just linger for a moment.
    I wear natural scents because certain chemicals used by the perfume house either make me dizzy or I have an allergic reaction to them.
    Izwe could be my favorite out of the six mentioned. I live in the Philippines and the daily average temperature here is around 25-28C reaching 30-35C (even 38 or 39) so something citrusy can be an uplifting daily scent to wear.

  • I like natural perfumes and cosmetics mainly because I am convinced that we still underestimate the power and beauty of what nature can give us. All the persons involved in Parfumeurs du Monde project seem to understand this and approach natural resources and indigenous people with a lot of respect which is why I strongly support it. I think my favorite would be Tsingy and Tzundha. I’d like to win a sample set because I will surely buy at least one bottle and I’d like to discover which one I would like best. Thanks for the draw. I line in the EU.

  • Hikmat Sher Afridi says:

    The idea is great! I like purity and that’s why I inclined to smell of natural essences. I am sure it encourages the wearer and specially the perfumers for harvesting organic raw materials in small as well as in huge quantity. The places chosen are wonderful. As I belongs to the Indian Sub-continent so that’s why Kashi, Light essence of India is my favorite.
    Thanks to the generosity of the six perfumers of Parfumeurs du Monde and Cafleurebon for the opportunity.
    Peshawar, Pakistan

  • I’m very intrigued about this project. I’ve seen Michel post on FB about it and would definitely like to try a of them out. The cause behind the project is amazing! Thank you fort the draw, I’m in the UK

  • Thanks for sharing info about this interesting project. I appreciate a lot people who cares about the Earth, its nature and future generations. Tsingy sounds great. I wear natural fragrances quite rarely but I have few vials and I love them. I am in EU, thanks.

  • Tsingy appears to be a must try, but all scents in this line sound great. I wear natural fragrances less often than ordinary ones first of all because of their limited availability, but I love them. Thanks for the draw. I live in the EU.

  • cinnamon tree says:

    I haven’t heard of Parfumeurs du Monde before and I love the idea. I hope one day every perfume brand will have a fragrance line based on natural essences and dedicated to protection of environment. Thank you for the article! I live in Europe.

  • I agree with you Einsof. Perfumes can change the world. Not only as every kind of beauty can, but exactly through appreciating and respecting nature, and making us – users and consumers – aware of which products, which companies we shoud use and what we should, or shouldn’t, pay for. I think this idea is excellent and I will but from them and spread the word among my friends. Thank you for the article and greetings from Norway

  • Thats so great the humanistic relation Parfumeurs du Monde have and the charity going back to indigenous people associated with the harvest. I haven’t heard of this group before except for Ive heard of Michel Roudnitska….probably from Michelyn’s writing about him on another fragrance site initially:) I loved reading the associations with the different ingredients and learning where they were obtained.

    They all sound so interesting but maybe Izme or Aqua Nativa more so:) I like wearing fragrances with natural elements in them because they feel more pure and personal to me.

    I live in the USA. And thanks for the information and opportunity.