New Perfume Review: Sixteen92 Fragrances Bruise Violet Extrait de Parfum (Claire Baxter) 2016+ Riot Grrl Draw

via @sixteen92perfumerie

When those in the know notice and speak highly of a new virtually unknown perfume house, and that same perfumer goes on to be nominated for a 2017 Art & Olfaction Award I, like the great eye of Sauron, swing about and focus my perfume-sniffing laser beam on finding out more.

Claire Baxter of Sixteen92 Perfumes

Based in Dallas Texas, and named for the date of the Salem Witch Trials, Sixteen92 is the brainchild of Claire Baxter, self-described CEO and Head Witch, introvert, secret lover of race cars, gardening, and ‘90s video games. In her early 30’s Claire is passionate about singing opera, fragrance, and the scientific nuances that connect scent with memory. Her glorious scents, based on legends, myths and fairy tales, are for the most part vegan, and completely non-animal tested. The perfume oils run 35-40% fragrance concentration, and her new Extrait de Parfums a whopping 35-50%. “I’ve always been a creative. I’ve also always been a lover of fragrances, and particularly fascinated by the science behind scent/memory associations. My journey actually began as a search for a creative outlet, something I could create with my hands; something tangible that could connect with people in a meaningful way. Fragrances are bottled memories, and during my earliest experiments I realized that the style of fragrance that I wanted to share trended more toward conceptual or atmospheric — the scent of my Grandmother’s garden, or how I imagine the forests of Grimm’s fairy tales or the bustling speakeasies of prohibition-era Chicago may have smelled. The challenges lie in finding a voice — much in the same way a designer or writer discovers their personal style. And I think that’s something that’s always evolving. Our perfumes are equal parts science, alchemy, and yes, a touch of magic!” -Claire Baxter, Sixteen92

 

Bruise Violet Extrait de Parfum was inspired by Claire’s love of the early 90’s “Riot Grrrl” movement, a genre of underground feminist punk-rock bands founded here in the Pacific Northwest. Bruise Violet is a rapturous time machine back to 1993. This extrait-strength sensuous liquid opens with a sweet and innocent lipstick and violet that morphs into anything but..

Kathleen Hanna of Bikini Kills 1990s photo Pat Graham

Very quickly the scent veers towards the dark rebellious side as an almost animalic and very vintage vibe sets in. Imagine the young girly frills of Little Bo Peep but with a secret that’s hidden beneath her flouncy crinolines; a black leather bustier laced up the back, and a thigh tattoo reading “Born To Raise Hell, Not Just Sheep” Her shepherdess’s crook, looking innocent enough hides a Shaolin blade sharp enough to shred a foolish heart into ribbons.

Miss Victory Violet by Zandy J Photography©

She is the sexy wolf beneath the innocent sheep’s clothing. A total badass with a blinding 500 watt smile! The dry down highlights the woody and bitter orris aspect of iris, while constantly maintaining the violet innocence, a beautiful and intriguing emotional juxtaposition of good and bad.

Gwen Stefani with Courtney Love and Melissa Auf Der Maur of Hole

This is a scent that begs to be worn while out clubbing with your posse, and later in the bedroom, with your girlfriend/boyfriend (or both), in an increasing state of déshabillé. A boudoir scent…but so much more. If you’ve got a thing for violet-centric perfumes, you’ll want this in your collection.

Notes: Red lipstick accord, dusting powder, white iris, violet leaf, Damascus & Bulgarian rose, red grapefruit zest.

Disclosure: Many thanks to Claire Baxter and Sixteen92 Perfumes for supplying the sample. The opinions are my own.

Robert Herrmann, Sr. Contributor

-Art Direction: Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief

Thanks to Sixteen92 Perfumes and Claire Baxter, we have a 7.5 ml travel spray for a registered reader in the USA. Please be sure to register if you have not done so.To be eligible please let us know what appeals to you about Robert’s review of Bruise Violet, if you enjoy violet notes in perfume and  your favorite 90s’ girl group. Draw closes May 1, 2017.  

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We announce the winners only on our site and on our Facebook page, so like Cafleurebon and use our RSS feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

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18 comments

  • Love, love , love this review and Violet notes. Especially paired wth lipstick accord!
    This was my favorite part.
    She is the sexy wolf beneath the innocent sheep’s clothing. A total badass with a blinding 500 watt smile! The dry down highlights the woody and bitter orris aspect of iris, while constantly maintaining the violet innocence, a beautiful and intriguing emotional juxtaposition of good and bad.
    I was a huge fan of the Bangles but they were more in the early 80’s. Thanks for the giveaway, I live in the U.S.

  • I don’t know if this is a perfume to have fun and experiment with or to ban. LOL. I love violet notes but have a hard time finding ones that really work for me, but with perfumes, hope springs eternal. No favorite 90’s girl groups. USA.

  • Anna Egeria says:

    Great profile of Claire Baxter and Perfumes Sixteen92. I’m always glad to learn of a vegan perfumer since I’m a vegan. I love violet fragrances and want to build a collection. I don’t have a favorite 90s’ girl group. Thank you for this drawing!

  • Never heard of this brand so thank you for featuring it. I was on her site and she has some great looking perfumes. Blood and honey especially sounds like I want to order a sample I would love to win bruise violet for my wife who like me loves L7

  • Christina M says:

    Bruised Violet sounds amazing and unique in terms of notes. I adore Violet in scents but only have “candied” violets or pretty “girly” violet fragrances. This sounds much different. I do have a favorite 90’s girl group but they aren’t Riot Grrl’s- Bananarama (and they are back)

  • Christina M says:

    Btw- I know Bananarama was technically an 80’s band but they were around and performing in the 90’s so I am sticking with my original answer 😉

  • Once again. Robert’s review makes me want to go out and buy this fragrance. The idea of a badass fragrance made by the head witch is pretty interesting, to say the least. I do like violet notes, as long as they don’t simper. No favorite 90s girl groups that I can think of. Thanks for the draw. I live in the USA

  • Hikmat Sher Afridi says:

    What a praise to a nose and wonderful review of her creation. Its great that it has vintage vibe and the scent that begs to be worn. I am curious for the note Red lipstick accord and the concentration oil in 35%-50%. My favorite is SPICE GIRLS group of 90’s.
    Thanks to Sixteen92 Perfumes & Claire Baxter for the generosity and Cafleurebon for the opportinuty to participate in the draw by letting my relative address in US.

  • Lillyhollowayblog says:

    Ooo, bad girl fragrances always catch my attention. Especially if there’s violet involved. I live in the US.

  • doveskylark says:

    A boudoir scent– yes, please. One that attracts both boys and girls– double yes.
    I lived in Seatlle in the 90s. I was a big fan of Seven Year Bitch.
    I live in the USA.

  • RoseMacaroon says:

    This is completely my thing — violet scents AND riot grrrlz!
    I love the eponymous song since it came out — Babes and Toyland has always been my favorite (i do love L7 soooooo much though!)
    I too am reeling, in a good way, with the “beautiful and intriguing emotional juxtaposition of good and bad” — i feel like that is my whole life! Summarized pretty well in an obsession with the works in and entire concept behind Les Fleurs du Mal by Charles Baudrlaire, spanning my entire adult life, and of course the solid comraderie afforded by listening at any time to all the best riot grrrl songs, which i still take comfort in more than 20 years later!!! (O.M.G.)
    I am in the US, and huge thanks for the draw, and review! I must smell this perfume.

  • This is exactly my vintage! I was a 90s teenager, plus I love vintage/animalic scents, so I’m interested in this one. I like violets, but iris even more so. My favorite 90s girl group is Veruca Salt!
    I am a US reader. THANKS!

  • I liked the Little Bo Beep characterization of the fragrance in the review! Violets is one of my favorite notes.

    I have two favorite 90s girl groups: The Breeders and Ultrasónicas.

    I am in the US. Thanks for the draw.

  • These indie perfumers are always so passionate about their craft and so interesting. Thanks for a great review, Robert! I like some violets, if they’re not candy sweet, and this one sounds like I would enjoy it. I am totally ignorant about 90’s girl groups! USA. Thanks for the draw.

  • hi roberts review had great detail which appeals to me ,i do enjoy violet in fragrances and for 90’s girl band id say *7 year bitc*…thnx for giveaway

  • I loved reading this review!! I love the juxtaposition between sweet little Violet’s and the Idea that this smells of raising hell, not sheep. Lovely imagery and definitely makes this something in curious to try!!

  • ntabassum92 says:

    So cool the way he describes the innocent facade of the fragrance and the sexy layers underneath. I do love violet in perfumery, especially when it’s softened with musks and warmer, rounder notes. My favorite 90s’ girl group? I guess it would have to e the Spice girls 😉

  • Richard Potter says:

    Really provocative review, Robert. Very excited for Claire and to try this frag. Sounds like nothing in my collection and I’m intrigued enough to blind but. I feel a need to let my dirty Bo Peep out. Thanks Robert.