Maison Violet Pourpre d’Automne (Nathalie Lorson) Review + French Legacy Draw

February 26, 2019February 26, 2019

Maison Violet Pourpre D'Automne (Courtesy of Maison Violet)

Any relaunch of a historic Perfume House holds an irresistible charm for fragrance lovers; even more so when such an effort combines fundamental respect and understanding of the House's heritage, with genuine creativity and boldness, like in the cases of Houbigant, Jacques Fath, Lubin, Le Galion or Parfums de Rosine. None of the aforementioned Houses, however, had ever been nearly totally forgotten, like Maison Violet; once as illustrious as Guerlain or Lubin, Parfumerie Violet thrived from mid-19th century till the 1930s.

Promotional poster by Louis-Théophile Hingre and bottle by Baccarat, both made for Violet circa 1900

Founded in 1827 by Mr. Violet, the company became known for innovative cosmetic products, notably after it was taken over by Mr. Allard and Louis Claye in 1849. Mostly due to Claye's enterprising talents, Maison Violet became a multi-awarded holder of several patents. In mid-19th century, just like Guerlain, the House officially became a perfume supplier to Empress Eugenie and Queen Isabella II of Spain (hence the title “à la Reine des Abeilles” – “to the Queen of Bees” – adopted by Violet, and the bees adorning its flacons).

La Parfumerie Violet by Giuseppe De Nittis, 1880 (Musée Carnavalet, Paris)©

By the time of Claye's death, Maison Violet had several boutiques in Paris, most notably a grand one at 12 Boulevard des Capucines. His successor, Aaron-Marc Rehns, proved to be equally able. During his dynamic leadership, Violet entered the stock market (1885), and an era of export (1900): its products were being shipped to the United States (where it was known as “Veolay”), Europe and Russia.

Vintage postcard of the Maison Violet factory in Saint-Denis (Courtesy of Maison Violet)

Maison Violet had its own perfume factory at 227 Rue de Paris in La Plaine Saint-Denis, with more than 250 employees. After many years of economic health and numerous fragrances, the two World Wars, the 1929 Wall Street crash, and frictions with its U.S. partner resulted in Maison Violet's exit from the American market. The House continued its course in France, but the extermination of the Rehns family by the Nazis during WWII obliterated Violet, as well. After the war, unsuccessful efforts were made to restore the company to its past glory; Maison Violet ceased activities just after 1953…

Paul Richardot, Anthony Toulemonde and Victorien Sirot (Courtesy of Maison Violet)

More than 60 years later, Maison Violet’s rich history will fascinate three young graduates of the École Supérieure du Parfum in Paris. The three friends, Anthony Toulemonde, Paul Richardot and Victorien Sirot, manage to acquire the name “Maison Violet”, with a dream to revive it for contemporary perfume lovers. Unfortunately, no fragrance formulas or any part of the company's valuable records were saved for them to “inherit".

Vintage Violet bottles collected by the brand's owners (Courtesy of Maison Violet)

The three new owners spend time, effort and funds trying to locate and purchase old ads, documents, and vintage Violet fragrances (pre-WWII bottles are highly prized among collectors). Having acquired some degree of knowledge about the olfactory identity of the House whose name was now theirs, they decide to start off with a “Heritage” collection, comprising of three scents bearing the names of some of Violet's greatest past successes: Pourpre D'Automne, Sketch and Un Air D’Apogée (originally named Apogée).

Nathalie Lorson of Firmenich and her three first creations for Maison Violet (Courtesy of Maison Violet)

Their project intrigues master perfumer Nathalie Lorson, who takes up the challenge to create the first three Maison Violet fragrances in 2017. A fourth one, Tanagra, was added a year later.

Maison Violet vintage ad and Pourpre D'Automne flacon circa 1924

For ÇaFleureBon’s introductory review of Maison Violet, I chose the stunning Pourpre D'Automne. The original 1922-created scent (the perfumer unfortunately remains unknown) was initially hosted in a magnificent bottle with painted autumn leaves, designed by Lucien Gaillard. Concerning the scent's modernisation, Anthony Toulemonde told me: “The old formula was a bit less floral, more of an ambery chypre with fruity/floral notes and vanilla. We decided to exaggerate the florals and keep the chypre feel in the background, excluding the ambery/vanilla notes".

Audrey Marnay in Alexander McQueen for Harper’s Bazaar 2015 (Photo: Erik Madigan Heck)©

This strategic decision was brilliantly executed by Mme Lorson, who composed a spectacular olfactory interpretation of Autumn: a harmonious “marriage” between cool and warm, dry and moist, shadow and light, reflecting the precious co-existence of the contemplative melancholy surrounding the end of summer, and the exhilarating eagerness for new adventures to come.

Audrey Marnay in Alexander McQueen for Harper’s Bazaar 2015 (Photo: Erik Madigan Heck)©

Maison Violet Pourpre D'Automne generously radiates a wide spectrum of aromas, textures, shades and emotions. Yearning violet, sensual rose, dry iris, moist oakmoss. The last peaches of summer and the first plums of fall. A violet/rose/iris accord whose effect magically shifts from luxurious cosmetic smell when worn by women, to refined leather when worn by men. Misty atmosphere with just a few sun beams occasionally peaking through. Purples of all tones, contrasted with forest greens and some warm orange touches. Daydreams of wearing a majestic velvet gown rustling on dry forest leaves.

Balancing between sober sophistication and unabashed romanticism, Pourpre D'Automne is an exemplarily executed retro-modern scent of breathtaking beauty and deep wistfulness: the essence of nostalgia for past joys, and the longing for future ones. An ideal creation to commence the new, beautiful adventures of Maison Violet.

Notes: violet leaf, peach, plum, rose, iris, violet, oakmoss, benzoin and musk.

Disclaimer: I'd like to thank Maison Violet for my travel sprays. The opinions are my own.

– Despina Veneti, Editor

Thanks to the generosity of Maison Violet, we have a draw for a set of four 7.5 ml travel sprays of all their fragrances (Maison Violet Pourpre D'Automne, Maison Violet Un Air D'Apogée, Maison Violet Sketch and Maison Violet Tanagra) for a registered reader worldwide. You must register here or your comment will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what you enjoyed most about Despina’s review, which you think you might like, and where you live. Draw closes March 1, 2019

We announce the winners only on our site and on our Facebook page, so like Çafleurebon and use our blog feed… or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.