Les Indemodables Musc de Sables, Rose de Jamal, and Fougere Emeraude + 3 You Should Be Wearing Draw

 

Valerie Pulverail, founder of Les Indemodables

Valerie Pulverail, founder @ Les Indemodables

Fashion is a fickle friend: quick as it is to provide direction when lack of inspiration hits, it often judges us cruelly when we adopt a direction that is ours alone; but then it forgets and back we are in its graces, only to diverge again and again. Falling out of fashion is one thing; coming back into fashion another thing entirely; for it is this grace period where most changes are made; most indiscretions, forgiven; most far-forgotten gems, repolished.

Here are, in my humble favor, 3 indemodable* concepts that span history without ever falling out of thought.

 

Les Indemodables Musc de Sable review

Balenciaga architectural coat. Photo from the FIT archive. Creative direction, digital editing by a_nose_knows for Les Indemodables Musc de Sable.

Of all senses, TOUCH is the first we employ (I know, I know, we’re talking scents; but while our lizard brain is ready to gut-process odors in a way we, perfume writers, yearn to believe intrinsic, the hard truth is we do depend on external odor sources). Touch, on the other hand, is within–from the womb until the last breath, our bodies are subject to gravity, pressure, and the infinite touches it bestows upon itself both naturally (blink; heartbeat; spoken words) and by choice (groom; faber-ing; caresses). It may be why, whilst sight allows for trends, it is touch that truly makes la mode: density; shape; texture. Persian carpets; Balenciaga volumes; a silk kimono.

 Les Indemodables Musc des Sables by Antoine Lie plays on space-defining relationships with the omnipotent aptitude of a Maitre D: never intrusive but always present, classically respectful but intimately familiar, fluidly dispersed but firmly concentrated. It hugs you tightly but doesn’t cross your boundaries; never do you feel lost, overtaken, or over expressed. Instead, it works within one’s unmarked borders to help you fill up your own space, with your own weight.

Makes you love the skin you’re in. 

Touchdown.

Official notes: mandarin, patchouli, ambergris, iris

Other perceived notes: powder, labdanum, vanilla, white musk, benzoin, rice, cardamom, almond milk, blond woods

Les Indemodables Rose de Jamal review

Rose ardente from the Morcom collection. Photo, creative direction, digital editing by a_nose_knows for Les Indemodables Rose de Jamal

When the rose perceived the distance between itself and the earth,

it brought forth its thorns.

When the rose realized that a single leg

couldn’t take it anywhere, that it was voiceless

and mostly had no echo, it thought of fragrance.

The blooming petals: a navel.

The stem: a rope that binds it to the earth’s deep womb.

That rose will be born someday in a lover’s hand

or between the shores of a book. – Anatomy of The Rose by Moroccan poetesse ©Soukaina Habiballah. Translation by Kareem Abu-Zeid.

 Try as I may, no matter how fertile the mind or how broad the scope of this review, there is nothing contextual to the rose that is more timeless than the rose itself. Substantial, inspirational, and forever undeniable, this one flower has sailed through 35 million years of evolution and at least 5000 years of continuous cultivation to arrive at our nose utterly unchanged and provide equal inspiration to love and war alike.  Les Indemodables Rose de Jamal by Antoine Lie slides the scale to uncertain (back? future?) dates when niche hadn’t made the rose conceptually gothic, all-over-the-bed sexual, or imperatorial-masculine. A simpler time when florals intended to showcase the abstract of the flowers they announced, when compositions leaned heavily predictable, and when effect—not intention or marketing—had the last say.

Unlike those times, though, Rose de Jamal manages a twist by turning rose manageably natural, and thus comfortably neutral; just like a flower on a bush cannot utter poetic phrases, this fragrance keeps any degree of sentimentality at bay—and, as such, lives in my brain as a modern classic.

By any name.

Official notes: Rose from Morocco, cedar, pink pepper, lavander, mint

Other perceived notes: immortelle, cucumber, marine notes, salt, carnation, leather, soap, bergamot

 

Les Indemodables Fougere Emeraude review

 

Tuberose umbrella. Creative direction & digital editing by a_nose_knows for Les Indemodables Fougere Emeraude. Photo © TVCMall

3000 years ago, some smart engineer took a break from building complicated structures and, in the shade of a half-finished pyramid, invented the first umbrella. Umbrellas were used for shade in the beginning, but the idea caught, and soon enough, the Chinese courts perfected it by adding impermeability; the rest, of course, is antipluvial history. Umbrellas became a woman’s accessory and stayed so in Western Europe until mid-18th century, when a fella called Jonas Hanway bucked the trend. Apart from this change in usage and a somewhat significant update from 1950, when nylon started being used, no major improvement was ever needed.

Fougeres seem to follow the same path: original intent and perfect functional mix already in place, little can be done to improve them; adding new angles and the occasional degenderization provide enough variation to satisfy us all—and this Indemodable is a glorious example.  Les Indemodables Fougere Emeraude by Florence Fouillet Dubois extends the barbershop staple with a green tuberose and a sunny mimosa; the result is a twisty but effortless floral, sappy but scorched, creamy but with fruity zest, easy, atemporal, and perfectly balanced. Weatherproof.

Official notes: tuberose, lavander, mimosa, tonka, sage

Other perceived notes: dark berries, vetiver, moss, cream, menthol

 Disclaimer: Les Indemodable samples provided by Indigo Perfumery. Thank you so much.

*Note: indemodable means (from French), something that is never subject to trends, so it never goes out a style; a staple; a classic.

dana sandu, Editor

best niche perfumes sample kit

Sample kit from Indigo Perfumery. Photo and digital editing by a_nose_knows for Les Indemodables.

Thanks to the generosity of Indigo Perfumery, we have discovery kit of seven deluxe samples available in the US, for one registered reader (you must register on our site or your comment will not count). To be eligible, please tell us what you enjoyed or found interesting about dana’s reviews and which appeals to you of her choices or any of the seven. Draw closes 7/3/2020

Les Indemodables perfume reviews

photo digitalized by Nicoleta from Indigo Perfumery

Editor’s note: My second choice for a top three was a tie, with the other fragrance (and the friendliest to my humble hide) being the beautiful Cuir de Chine, covered gloriously by our own Lauryn Beer HERE.

This is our Privacy and Draw Rules Policy

Follow us on Instagram @cafleurebon   @a_nose_knows  @les_indemodables_parfums  @indigoperfumery @antoinelieolfactiveexperience

 

We announce the winners only on our site and on our Facebook page, so like Çafleurebon and use our blog feed…or  your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

 

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

59 + = 66

25 comments

  • Enjoyed the reviews. It was interesting to see that all three don’t have too many notes harkening back to, as Dana says, “A simpler time when florals intended to showcase the abstract of the flowers they announced, when compositions leaned heavily predictable, and when effect—not intention or marketing—had the last say.” My top one would be Les Indemodables Musc des Sables by Antoine, though others look good too. Thanks for the reviews and the draw. Writing from the USA.

  • Trinity33 says:

    I love dana’s view that some things fall out of fashion only to return after undergoing a change inducing grace period. Things fall out of fashion but not necessarily out of thought. They never go out of style. I enjoy experiencing different interpretations of fougeres and the addition of tuberose and mimosa sounds like a welcome twist in Les Indemodables Fougere Emeraude. Commenting from MD, USA.

  • BostonScentGuy says:

    Rose being turned “manageably natural,” and “comfortably neutral” sounds great! I’ve had my eye on this brand, but never made the connection to this idea of scents or ideas that don’t go out of fashion. I love the sound of Cuir de Chine and, in this article, the Fougere–it’s a favorite genre of mind, so I generally like exploring any twist on it. I haven’t tried any of these scents yet. Thanks for the draw–I’m in the US!

  • ll grhm I live in USA says:

    Les Indemodables Fougere Emeraude by Florence Fouillet Dubois sounds the most intriguing. I really liked how Dana described it, “Les Indemodables Fougere Emeraude by Florence Fouillet Dubois extends the barbershop staple with a green tuberose and a sunny mimosa; the result is a twisty but effortless floral, sappy but scorched, creamy but with fruity zest, easy, atemporal, and perfectly balanced. Weatherproof.” It sounds both unique and very wearable.

    I am a registered reader and I am in the US.

  • Timeless classics… but far from boring!
    Thank you, Dana and Michelyn, for your fascinating reviews.
    One of my favorite qualities of the Les Indémodables fragrances is their obviously high quality and percentage of naturals. The ambergris is the real deal- actual tinctured ambergris.

  • Camille Sheil says:

    Les Indemodables Rose de Jamal is the one that appeals to me most. A raw rose. I love the comparisons and contrasts that Dana brings through in her writing. Lovely! A rose that is neither too familiar nor too exotic. As Dana writes, it is “comfortably neutral.”

    I love Dana’s expressions and innovative usage for words to evoke the meaning of picture behind them. Very well done!

    Thanks so much for this opportunity! I live in New Hampshire USA!

  • I enjoyed very much how Dana explained the history of the umbrella and then related it to the Fougere. As for which appealed to me most both Musc des Sables and Fougere Emeraude both sounded great to me and like I would enjoy wearing both as well. I also liked seeing the listed notes along with other perceived notes it helped to better understand what they may smell like. Thanks for the draw from CT USA.

  • JoeFrank9 says:

    I liked the concept of the house and just how Dana combines fashion with scent. Really interested in knowing this house. Im torn between Musk Sables because of the ambergris and iris bein two of my favorite notes and Fougere Emeraude because Im rediscovering the fougere genre in my late cravings. Thanks for the draw, Im at Texas, USA.

  • NiceVULady says:

    Though not particularly a rose person, I found the description of Les Indemodables Rose de Jamal to be enchanting in the truest sense of the word. This sounds beautiful and natural and perfect. I would absolutely love to win this discovery kit as I was taken the descriptions of all three. Sigh…Thank you Dana for your beautiful words and thanks to Indigo Perfumery for a awesome draw. I’m in the USA

  • Wow, I was having trouble picking one favorite from the three as they all sound amazing but I have to go with Les Indemodables Musc des Sables with Rose de Jamal a close second. I’m in USA

  • Oh, I am so glad this is for a sample set. Dana’s review made me want to try them all. The one that called to me most was: Les Indemodables Musc des Sables. I am in the USA.

  • patrick_348 says:

    I like the concept for this line. It is acknowledging that there are certain never-out-of-style classics, but that doesn’t mean they can’t be given a contemporary interpretation. I liked dana’s comparison of fougeres to umbrellas. The Fougere Emeraude is the one I would choose because I love fougeres, but winning the discovery set would be super because I looked through their list of fragrances and they all sound intriguing. In NC in the US.

  • Les Indemodables is a new brand to me, thanks for the introduction. I enjoyed reading about dana’s perceived notes and her unique descriptions of the fragrances mentioned. I’m drawn to Musc Des Sables with its mandarin, patchouli, ambergris and iris notes. Thanks for the opportunity to try this brand. Mich USA

  • doveskylark says:

    These reviews were beautifully and thoughtfully written. I always learn so much (and ruminate so much) when I read dana’s reviews. I especially liked the idea of a “weatherproof” fragrance. Brilliant description of Fougere Emeraude. This one appeals to me the most– I love that it is “sappy but scorched.”
    I live in the USA.

  • Bryant Worley says:

    I always like reading Dana’s reviews, she is so good. What Iiked about the review is the way she incorporated poetry, science and history, connecting those deftly to the fragrances.

    The one that appeals to me is Cuir de Chine. What male would be able to resist a fresh, elegant and surprising trail paying homage to SUEDE and LEATHER! Then you have the Turkish tobacco (which is mild and very aromatic), an herbal accent of clary sage (providing a softer, sweeter profile, exuding floral, earthy, and nutty tones with a fruity nuance) and the lovely Jasmine Grand Cru (Grand Cru = of the highest quality), which adds a floral sensuousness to the leather. WHOO-OO WHEE!!

    (voice lowering, rumbling, seemingly threatening) I…..Want……THIS!!! And once the formality of the drawing is done, you can send it to me in Waldorf, MD, USA.

  • dana, thank you for the wonderful reviews and it’s always fun to see what you pick for the 3 you should be wearing. Thank you to Mme. Pulverail and Les Indemodables, Mme. Fouillet Dubois and M. Lie pour les parfums. Thank you to Indigo for the generosity of the draw.

    I regret to say that I have not yet smelled anything from Les Indemodables, but they have been on my list of houses to get samples of.

    All three of these (4 including Cuir de Chine) sound fantastic in their own respects. dana’s description of the sense of touch and the way she weaves it into the narrative of Musc des Sables is wonderful, between that and the notes I really feel the need to feel and smell this marry with my skin.

    Now, I’m also a lover of rose in all of it’s multifaceted glory – and I particularly love Moroccan Rose. Mix it with mint and pepper and I’m an ecstatic perfumista. Rose de Jamal really speaks to me as well.

    Fougère Emeraude also sounds wonderful, une parapluie de tubéreuse – l’idée m’interesse beaucoup.

    Thank you again.

    I’m in the USA

  • Nicoleta Martinez says:

    Dana is so creative not only with her language choices (both in English and Romanian), but also in her approach to describing the depths and intricacy of perfumes.

    Nicoleta, US

  • Dana has such an interesting way of writing. It is so much fun to read her reviews because they are so diverse in content. Thank you for the journey, Dana. Rose de Jamal sounds most interesting to me. Thank you for the chance to win. USA

  • redwheelbarrow says:

    Of the three, Les Indemodables Musc des Sables sounds the most interesting to me. I love the description of the hug that doesn’t cross boundaries. The ambergris and iris seem like this one would be very comforting. Thank you for the draw from USA

  • Amanda32828 says:

    I really wish I could try these fragrances. They all sound very appealing to me. I wish I could smell Les Indemodables Musc des Sables, the notes of mandarin, patchouli, ambergris and iris are very intriguing to me. I think I haven’t smelled nothing with those combined ingredients.
    Thank you again for the opportunity to participate in this draw. I’m commenting from Orlando, Fl.

  • Margarita K says:

    I like their concept: Fragrances should not follow trends. That way they can not fall out of grace (like the bad named “old lady perfumes”), and they would not sink in the ocean of same fashionable (at the moment pink) juices. But is it easy to always create classics. And will the market support the idea. I hope so.
    I’d love to try Les Indemodables, especialy the Iris Perle.
    I love the rose poem.
    Greetings from Indiana.

  • Hashim Madani says:

    The Moroccan rose Dana describes in Les Indemodables Rose de Jamal sounds as natural a rose note can be in a fragrance, and that’s why I’d love to try it. VA, USA.

  • I have only tried one from this brand but I quite enjoyed it. It is nice to have more introductions . They all sound appealing but Emeraude calls to me the most, from this description. Thank you to Indigo and Cafleurebon for the draw. USA

  • Thank you, Dana and Michelyn, for your amazing reviews. I have read a few fascinating articles about Les Indemodables parfums, but never tested.
    Musc des Sables sounds very complex and beautiful!
    US

  • I always love Dana’s reviews. The analogies she draws helps paint a picture of the perfume in a way that resonates with me. Les Indemodables Rose de Jamal sounds divine. I live in the USA. Thanks for the giveaway!