Le Galion Jasmin (Rodrigo Flores-Roux) 2020+ Behind the Bottle with Rodrigo Flores-Roux Draw

March 10, 2021March 11, 2021

Le Galion Jasmin 2020, photos by Le Galion

When it was offered me to try the updated Le Galion Jasmin I leapt at the opportunity, especially when I found out that the perfumer involved was Monsieur Rodrigo Flores-Roux – and that this fragrance held a special place in his heart. He (like myself) possesses a carefully protected vintage flacon which was his compass as he went about the process of reinterpreting it. As we are well aware, times and tastes have changed, and the IFRA regulations are very clear regarding which materials and concentrations are permissible; this presents its own challenge. How to remain true to the initial concept while infusing new life and expansivity into a cherished perfume?

Ida’s Le Galion Jasmin 2020 and her Vintage flacon

Before we delve into the above topic I’d like to provide a little context, if I may. Those of you ‘of a certain age’ might view the house of Le Galion with a measure of nostalgia. Many mothers and grandmothers, great-aunts wafted the famed Sortilège (translated as spell or sorcery), the vintage of which reveals a sophisticated, sparkling aldehydic multifloral with a growling animalic undercarriage. It suited my filmstar-stunning mother to a T; I keep several bottles on hand so that I may summon her at will. There is, however – much more to Le Galion than initially meets the eye.

Paul Vacher composed Jasmin in 1937, via Le Galion

Renowned Master Perfumer Paul Vacher (of Lanvin and Dior fame. He created Arpège, Rumeur and Scandal; Diorling and Miss Dior!) took the helm of Prince Murat’s established house in 1930, and from 1930-1980 Le Galion’s successes were legion.

Nicolas Chabot (Photo: Sylvie Mafray)

Unfortunately, after Vacher’s passing the company was sold to an American concern and it collapsed – until 2014 when it was resurrected by Creative Director Nicolas Chabot (also of Aether and Corps Volatilis). Seventeen classic original fragrances were redeveloped; since then, nine others have been added to the roster. I have smelt a good many of them (both vintage and new) and can heartily attest to their quality. In addition to Rodrigo Flores-Roux, other perfumers called into play are Jean-Christophe Hérault, Vanina Muracciole, Quentin Bisch!!!(Tileul), Domitille Michalon-Bertier, David Maruitte and Thomas Fontaine.

Rodrigo Flores-Roux smelling Jasminum officinale in Easter, also in Berlin in 2019 courtesy of the perfumer

I’ve searched for the notes for the original 1937 Jasmin and thanks to Master Perfumer Rodrigo Flores Roux, I now have them: “jasmine absolute overdose, ylang ylang, orange flower, lilac, tuberose, narcissus, musk, vetiver, sandalwood, moss, cedarwood and red fruit notes, orange essence Sweet Guinea. I would characterize it (vintage) as a no-holds-barred, full-bodied fruity jasmine with an animalic presence. It is by no means a lilting innocent aroma; the base is dark, rich, woody/mossy and very long lasting. The format I have is parfum, so it is more intense than the cologne, eau de toilette or parfum de toilette forms in which it is available (on websites selling vintage fragrances). It would be easily worn by any gender successfully.

Monsieur Flores-Roux’s rendition is a much brighter one with a self-assured personality: solar, saline, glowing full-sunshine-by-the-edge-of-the-sea. It’s ebulliently floral with nearly as much green as gold. The overdosed fruity jasmine sambac is amplified by eau de brouts, a petitgrain water absolute distilled from the leaves and green twigs of the bitter orange which is potent; it contributes a naturalness to jasmine and orange blossom notes. Ylang ylang, with its buttery banana-like indolic sweetness provides yet another layer of exoticism, and is joined by the beauty of the lily. Guinean orange adds an undeniable freshness to the composition, aided by the limpidity of cyclamen and a complementary sea spray accord, underscoring Jasmin with ozone. For frank animalic tones, cumin and narcissus work brilliantly; you can’t miss them. They get under your skin. As for verdancy, it abounds in the form of grassy vetiver, cool oakmoss and dry, hay-and-tobacco leather-kissed mate. A youthful worldliness is suggested by the touch of plum and an insinuated airy leather accord (the latter is a total mystery to me). The first scintillating spritz of Le Galion Jasmin sings of unbridled abandon: sunkissed skin, the wind ruffling through your hair, restless feet fairly itching to dance. It is an intoxicating debut that segues into an elegant, enigmatic phase which smells profoundly floral, both bright and dark simultaneously. A powerhouse floral chypre (as opposed to strict soliflore), Le Galion Jasmin 2020 is a force with remarkable tenacity and a pronounced contemporary feel. I’m thrilled with my flacon (chic, fluted columnar) and the gorgeous jus it encases. This is a fresher relative of Paul Vacher’s original fragrance: relevant, contemporized and simply beautiful.

Notes: eau de brouts absolute, wild cyclamen, sea spray accord, Orange Essence Sweet Guinea , cumin, overdose of jasmin sambac “Imperial’ and “Vintage” absolutes, ylang ylang, narcissus absolute, lily, patchouli, vetiver, oakmoss, mate absolute, plum, atmospheric leather accord

–Ida Meister, Deputy Editor and Natural Perfumery Editor

My cherished bottle was kindly provided by Nicolas Chabot – merci mille fois! My nose is my own…

Behind the Bottle With Rodrigo Flores-Roux (Irving Penn, Girl Behind Bottle New York 1949 and Rodrigo Flores-Roux collage)

“Nicolas Chabot agreed with me that I ‘should try to give Le Galion Jasmin a second breath’. Since my teenage years, I was familiar with the original 1950’s version, as it was once popular in Mexico. My English grammar teacher wore it and I loved it on her. She gave me a small purse flacon of it, which I still keep! I always found an intriguing fruity but horselike quality in it, which I later deciphered as a “Jasmin absolue benzol” nuance. This specific quality of jasmine absolute, now defunct, boasts a really intense, unctuous fruity note, something like the aroma of red fruit jelly on steroids.

I had very specific information about Paul Vacher’s original formula, but I wanted to give it an electric jolt. While I kept the enormous floral richness given by Egyptian jasmine, enriched by touches of narcissus (very ‘on trend’ now) and tuberose, I expanded the heart with a luscious lily note with more modern “muguet” aspects. The strawberry reference of benzol jasmine was also exacerbated. However, I was loathe on making a gourmand perfume (I am always suspicious of that family… sorry…) so the small woody chypre nucleus that Vacher had originally sneaked in gave me the opportunity of opposing this almost numbing floral heart to an elegant Parisian chypre chicness. The result could have been a bit uptight. It was then, almost by accident, that I added a marine accord, overdosing a floralozone-cetonal duo, that did the trick. The woody iris like qualities of cetonal, allowed it to replace the traditional role that methyl ionones play in elegant chypre floral structures. Its ambergris qualities also hinted at the opportunity of spotlighting more of the animalic character, so a healthy heap of indol and lactoscatone were added. Lastly, in order to maintain the lush, wet freshness on top, a rather bitter “gardenia leaf” note made its presence, with a touch of grapefruit peel tanginess. I’d call Le Galion Jasmin a bit overreaching and hyper present, “irresponsible” restoration at its BEST. For its fans, it’s like catnip to cats!“. –Rodrigo Flores-Roux

Our thanks to Rodrigo Flores Roux, Vice President, Perfumery Givaudan for his invaluable insights and sharing his creative process.

Thanks to the generosity of Nicolas Chabot, we have a 100 ml bottle of Le Galion Jasmin to give away to one registered reader in the U.S. or Europe. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what appeals to you about Le Galion Jasmin based on Ida’s review, what you learned from Rodrigo Flores-Roux’s “Behind the Bottle” and where you live. Have you had opportunity to try any Le Galion perfumes? Draw closes 3/13/2021

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