Humiecki & Graef Blask: Modern Perfume Architecture

 

 

Most of the houses we live in fall into a few set architectural styles; ranch, Cape Cod, split level. Then there are the types of houses that fall outside of those categories. They are one-of-a-kind creations full of unusual angles and unusual materials. They are challenging to imagine living comfortably in but there are those who take up that challenge. When it comes to perfume one of those modern architects are the team behind Humiecki & Graef.

 

 

Since 2008, when designers Sebastian Fischenich and Tobias Muksch, working in conjunction with “Les Christophs” (Christoph Hornetz and Christophe Laudamiel) began Humiecki & Graef; they have released seven fragrances which show a commitment to realizing a modern fragrant construction with no expectation that Humiecki & Graef fragrances are something for everybody. Instead they choose to design to an aesthetic that celebrates something unquestionably modern.

For those of us who have enjoyed that aesthetic last year’s release of Bosque caused some concern that Humiecki & Graef were starting to soften their lines a bit. I thought Bosque was a really good fragrance and was a way for a more casual perfumista to take a step into the Humiecki & Graef world without going full Bauhaus. For me I like the harder aesthetic inherent in Multiple Rouge. I met Hr. Muksch at the recent Esxence show in Milan and we had a long conversation about the fact that we both like and wear Multiple Rouge and that its construction is about the beauty inherent in the unusual. As they premiered their eighth fragrance Blask I was curious to see whether we would continue with the softer lines of Bosque or would we see a return to form like the other fragrances in the Humiecki & Graef line. The short answer: Blask is a mesmerizing fascinating return to form.

 

 

Les Christophs chose to create their interpretation of an Oudh scent for Blask. Those of you verging on Oudh exhaustion Blask will wake you up because this is a modern impression of oudh without ever really turning into an oudh. The core of this is a mix of bayleaf, red wine accord, and walnut. The bay leaf is so smooth here it is hard to think it is there as it oozes into life out of a sharp opening of violet to take over the early stages. The red wine accord comes next and it is that rich fermented grape feel you get when you inhale a glass of fine Bordeaux. It combines so unusually with the bay leaf it forms an almost indescribable accord at turns deep and in other moments it is feels like it is evaporating off my skin. The walnut comes into play with that edgy nuttiness that walnut has. These three notes come together to create something wholly unique and something completely modern.

 

 

Blask has 24-hour longevity and above average sillage.

Blask is not a fragrance for everybody but if you are someone looking for a line that takes risks and challenges your perception of what perfume could be, Blask is something you need to try and all of the rest of the Humiecki & Graef fragrances. They are full of angles for you to admire even if you don’t want to live in it.

Disclosure: This review was based on a sample provided by Humiecki & Graef at Esxence 2011.

Mark Behnke, Managing Editor

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3 comments

  • This line sounds very exciting, Mark.  I'm trained as an architect and landscape architect and perfumer, so this article really pulled me in.

  • Sweet fragrance in the direction of Gaultier’s Le Male, with confectionary type notes. I can’t find any agar wood (Oudh) which is just as well as it would not go well with this type of perfume