Grossmith Phul-Nana Review (Trevor Nicholl) + Neo-Vintage Draw

 

Grossmith Phul-Nana review

Grossmith Phul-Nana ©Jana Menard

Long before there was Shalimar, there was Grossmith Phul-Nana. Created in 1891 by the London-based firm,  Phul-Nana – whose name means “lovely flower” in Hindi – was an early trendsetter in modern perfumery. Built around an exotic central accord of orange-sandalwood-vanilla, its lush richness set the stage for the ambery, balsamic perfumes that followed over the next few decades. Phul-Nana graced the dressing tables of a certain kind of fashionable Victorian woman – one perhaps uncomfortably secure in her sensuality and who might turn up to dinner sporting harem pants or a jeweled turban. You can almost hear the harumphing from the gentlemen in the drawing room even as they inch closer for a whiff.

vintage Grossmith London Phul-Nana

vintage ad

Founded in 1835 Grossmith London rapidly became an influential and popular perfume house, with its own flower fields in Grasse and a laboratory in The City of London. Grossmith began its foray into perfumery by followed the Victorian craze for Eastern inspired everything, producing an inaugural line of perfumes featuring exotic names and unusual blends of florals, spices, and resins: Hasu-no-Hana, Shem-el-Nessim, and Phul-Nana. Today, the firm is steered and owned by descendants of John Grossmith, who revived the brand in 2006 and reintroduced the original three fragrances, tweaked for modern wearers.

Today’s Grossmith Phul-Nana is a rich, resinous, floral fragrance. Updated in 2011 by Robertet perfumer Trevor Nicholl, Phul-Nana stays close to its origins. Nicholls trimmed the sweet spice blend of the original formula and dispensed with its herbal aspects, centralizing its voluptuous flowers and honeyed vanillic notes. is languid, luxurious, and so alluringly vintage in style that it is hard to believe its didn’t emanate from a filigreed bottle in the dusty recesses of an heiress’ attic.

Grossmith London perfumes

Grossmith Letterhead, 1930s, image courtesy of Grossmith London

Grossmith Phul-Nana EDP starts off with a lovely, spiced orange note like the waft of an Elizabethan pomander and then adds a generous dose of milky, powdery tonka bean. There’s some soapsuds neroli swishing at the top, and a welcome bitterness from the bergamot. Before long, sandalwood makes its way through, and I would almost swear there’s also a pinch of cinnamon alongside it. There’s plenty of vanilla, but not so much that one would mistake this for a gourmand. But the most surprising feature of this past of the composition is the emergence of opoponax, which dominates the middle section with its smoky, honey velveteen smell. Some tobacco-like patchouli begins to edge its way in along with touch of geranium. They veer Phul-Nana away from Shalimar-land towards the smoking room where the gentlemen have retired after dinner and are playing billiards while surreptitiously ogling the ladies.

Best grossmith London Perrfumes

A Word to the Wise by Charles Dana Gibson, Creative Commons

It is fascinating how subtly and yet dramatically Phul-Nana moves towards more masculine country in its late middle stages. This is not to say that the fragrance loses its femininity, but the amping of up the balsamic, earthy notes at this junction gives the EDP a touch of modernity. Where the EDP stresses woods and incense, the parfum version is a languid odalisque adorned with ylang ylang and tuberose, reclining on a bed of benzoin and tonka bean. The flowers are beautifully blended, adding richness and floralcy without calling attention to themselves. Phul-Nana parfum is rich, gorgeous creature, as full-bodied and luscious as a Gibson Girl.

In the dry-down, Phul-Nana EDP is warm sandalwood and geranium; Phul-Nana parfum, all tuberose, milled soap and ylang syrup. I’d wear the EDP most times quite happily. The parfum … well, that’s for lolling on my chaise longue while the men duel outside.

Notes: Bergamot, orange, neroli, geranium, tuberose, ylang ylang, patchouli, benzoin Siam, cedarwood, sandalwood, opoponax, tonka bean, bourbon vanilla.

Disclaimer: samples of Grossmith Phul-Nana EDP kindly provided by The Fragrance Vault. My opinions are, as always, my own.

Lauryn Beer, Senior Editor

Grossmith Phul-Nana EDP by Jana Menard

Thanks to the generosity of the lovely Jana Menard, owner of The Fragrance Vault, we have a 50 ml bottle of Grossmith Phul-Nana EDP ($295) for one registered reader in the U.S.A ONLY. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what appeals to you about Phul-Nana based on Lauryn’s review and whether you have tried and have a favourite Grossmith fragrance. Draw closes 6/23/2021.

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45 comments

  • So glad to hear the history of this house and that the family has brought it back. Lovely to hear the description that it leans masculine on the dry-down. Sandalwood-Orange-vanilla combo is a favorite. I had not heard of Grosmith before so I am glad to have something new to explore.

  • I have extrait version of phul-nana and it is, indeed, rich floral composition. I have not tried edp but it looks like it goes in the same direction but airier. The art above seems like from the Gibson Sisters that graced many ads back then. I am in US.

  • Lauryn’s review is fabulous! I live for this kind of historical context & love love love vintage perfumes. Phul-Nana EDP is so very interesting because it is an original scent of the house, “tweaked for modern wearers.” These are the actual descendants of John Grossmith, which adds a layer of interest (and, I would imagine, care). I’m so intrigued by Lauryn’s description of how close the scent stays to its vintage heritage. I would love to try this! I am pleased to hear that it tends toward the balsamic, earthy notes. Also, so happy to learn about Fragrance Vault! Can’t wait to check them out! I have not been lucky enough yet to try a Grossmith fragrance, but I hope to!

  • KMBfragrance says:

    I recently tried Shalimar EDP for the first time and loved it, so the comparison to it draws my interest. Also, the way in which vintage style fragrances weave together “masculine” and “feminine” notes is always a plus in my book. I haven’t yet tried any Grossmith fragrances. I live in Missouri USA.

  • As a Shalimar fan, I would really like to smell Phul-Nana. I enjoyed how Lauryn described it as veering away from Shalimar-land towards the smoking room. A great visual for me. I love bourbon vanilla and a tabacco like patchouli sounds very interesting. I have never tried a Grossmith fragrance. Thanks for the giveaway. In the USA.

  • Love learning the history of fragrance houses. Shalimar was always one of my favorites. So happy the family brings this back. Love the idea of masculine feminine notes. Unisex are my favorites. The vintage style is updated to modern. Great review by Lauren. Love to explore this fragrance. Thank you USA

  • joshuabrian says:

    Great review! Haven’t tried the brand, but the note breakdown sounds lovely! I’m in the Indiana, USA

  • Jennifer McMenamin says:

    I love the long history of this fragrance house – now revived. I have never tried this before. In Louisiana, USA.

  • Gabriel Garcia says:

    Great review, for us shalimar lovers sounds good, and based on the formula it will be nice to test for modern noses, I haven’t tried any of the Grossmith, las vegas nv.

  • I love the marriage of orange and sandalwood; it sounds beguiling. I haven’t had the opportunity to try any Grossman fragrances yet, In US.

  • Gabriel Garcia says:

    Wonderful review and to lear the history of the family, since Iam a big fan of shalimar this sounds great!
    I have never tried the grossmith scents.
    Las vegas nv

  • Dubaiscents says:

    I adore and own a bottle of Shem El Nessim and I’m sure I tried this one at some point but, I can’t remember it. Lauryn’s review really makes me want to find another sample. I think this house has done an amazing job of staying true to their Victorian roots while modernizing just enough to appeal to the current perfumista. Thank you, Jana, for this chance to win a bottle. I can’t wait to see how the new larger shop turns out. US

  • I have not heard of this house nor any of the perfumes but Paul-Nana sounds intriguing to say the least! Foreign name, vintage-based fragrance…how old and yet so new! Grossmith perfumes sound so interesting and Jana and her Fragrance Vault is a dream come true for fragrance enthusiasts! I will definitely be reading the article referred to at the end of the review. Thank you for the chance…I am in the US.

  • I am fascinated by older fragrances. My collection includes both Jicky and Knize Ten. I’ve never smelled anything by Grossmith, but the history of this fragrance appeals to me. I’m in Oklahoma, USA. Thanks, as always, for the draw!

  • I liked learning a bit of history about the brand and scent. I also thought the description of the scent was really nice and id be interested to try Grossmith Phul-Nana. Ive not tried anything from Grossmith before. Thanks for the generous draw, from CT USA.

  • Sherin Thomas says:

    I can see the resemblence with Shalimar and for the first time and loved it, so the comparison to it draws my interest. Also, the way in which vintage style fragrances weave together “masculine” and “feminine” notes is always a plus in my book. I haven’t yet tried any Grossmith fragrances. I live in PA, USA

  • GennyLeigh says:

    Very interesting history of the house. I’ve never heard of Grosssmith Phul-Nana before but I love that it appealed to the Victorian woman “uncomfortably secure in her own sensuality”. Modern indeed! The comparison to Shalimar is intriguing. but it sounds like it amps up the masculine notes. Commenting from MD, USA.

  • I don’t know Grosssmith but I do know shalimar because my wife wears it
    I browsed fragrance vault and they have great selections of so many perfumes.
    I will be ordering samples soon
    New York

  • Julesinrose says:

    I love old labels! I also love old stuff, even if it’s new stuff that has a nod to the old. The notes of this sound really lovely. I have only tried one Grossmith fragrance and I can’t for the life of me remember what it was! Oh dear. In the US

  • This redesign of Grossmith Phul-Nana is very intriguing. A woman who is uncomfortably secure in her sensuality, wearing a turban and harem pants to a fancy dinner? Sign me up. Though they have been around for so long, I have not tried any Grosmith scents. I am in the US.

  • constancesuze says:

    I quite like Grossmith’s lineup but haven’t had the time to get to know any of the fragrances as well as I would like. I’ve always encountered them ducking into perfume shops while traveling, and then there’s always so much else I’m trying to get done.
    I remember all of them as being quality and worth a deeper look.
    I’m in the US.

  • I am not familiar with Grossmith brand, so Lauryn’s review was informative. Enjoyed reading the history of Grossmith brand. Grossmith Phul-Nana seems to be a lovely perfume, with a modern touch, devoid of herbals and spices that sometimes characterize vintage perfumes. Enjoyed the imagery of men’s smoking room. Thanks for introducing Grossmith perfumes and Grossmith Phul-Nana. Writing from the USA.

  • I’m most intrigued by the milky, powdery tonka bean in the opening as I’m more familiar with tonka as a base note. I also sampled Hasu-no-Hana but felt it wasn’t for me. VA, USA

  • I tried a couple of the Grossmith fragrances years ago, but at the time, I fell for Shem-el-Nessim. I remember thinking that they were all beautifully composed and I hoped to revisit them. I love the history of the brand and the care that was taken to revive it. As a long-time fan of Shalimar and Shalimar-esque fragrances, Phul-Nana sounds perfect for me. I’m in the US.

  • This perfume sounds wonderful with the feminine voluptuous open and the masculine finish, and definitely the kind of style that I enjoy. I was unaware of the brand’s storied history too! I’ve never tried anything by this house before so I don’t have a favorite yet. Thanks for the giveaway!

  • IvanVelikov says:

    Grossmith fragrances I have no experience with, Phul-Nana is upscale leaning masculine fragrances for dressed up occasions. It’s rich, resinous, floral with patchouli and sandalwood. I’m in tailoring business, and I would wear it while working with clients at the shop.
    Thanks for the giveaway
    USA

  • Bryant Worley says:

    What appeals to me is that this fragrance seems quite balanced, eventhough it’s spicy, vanillic, floral and citrusy. And it’s unisex, which makes it desirable.

    I’ve never tried a Grossmith, but wouldn’t mind trying Hasu-No-Hana and Saffron Rose.

    I live in Waldorf, MD, USA.

  • doveskylark says:

    I love a fragrance with opoponax! I also like that this fragrance embraces and moves around masculine and feminine notes. I love both the drawing room and the smoking room. Who wants to be confined in just one place. I always enjoy Lauryns’s imagery and analogies in her reviews.
    I haven’t tried any fragrances from Grossmith.
    I live in the USA.

  • I can’t believe I’ve never heard of this perfume house, considering it was founded in 1835! I like that there are many layers to this fragrance and how it is described as leaning masculine in the midnotes. The drydown of sandalwood and geranium sound so comforting.
    I live in the USA.

  • redwheelbarrow says:

    I love the description of veering away from Shalimar to the smoking room. The subtle lean toward masculinity sounds so interesting. I want to try any fragrance that causes harumphing. Also, I love the idea of recreatnig vintage fragrances. I don’t really have any experience at all with vintage. Thank you for the draw. I’m in the US.

  • Belladonna says:

    This sounds beautiful! I’ve never tried anything by Grossmith – and this is my first time to hear of Phul-Nana. I love the history lesson from Lauryn’s review. Thank you for the generous opportunity to try this beauty. In the US.

  • Everything about Phul-Nana appeals to me: the packaging/bottle, the notes, and especially the fact that it has been made and worn since 1891. I am fairly new to perfume as a hobby/obsession, but I have always been obsessed with beautiful old things. I am especially drawn to perfumes that have been worn and loved by generations of women (and people in general). I even recieved my first actual vintage perfumes this week (several miniature bottles) and I think I have another new obsession within perfumery (oh no). Phul-Nana has many of my very favorite notes and I would be so honored to have a bottle of it in my collection. I haven’t tried any Grossmith fragrances yet, but I surely will as they are on my list. I live in the Midwestern United States. Thank you for the opportunity and the stimulating content.

  • I love a lot of vintage perfumes (out of the ones I’ve been lucky enough to try) and also many vintage-inspired ones. I enjoyed how you conjured the Victorian milieu the original Phul-Nana might have seen. This sounds gorgeous, and also different enough from other fragrances that I’m quite curious to try it. (SoCal)

  • I have not tried this house but I love that the family has looked to their past catalog and brought back their fragrances. I wonder how much of the changes have to do with the restrictions faced these days. All of those notes sound like a dream I’d love to give this house a try. I’m in the US.

  • So glad that historical perfume house revealed and we haven’t lost good heritage. Intresting that thay find inspiration from India.
    Love eastern perfumes, especially with vanilla and sandalwood.
    Unfortunately, I am not familiar with this brand.
    US

  • I love rich resinous fragrances , with florals , sandalwood and tobacco. Phul-Nana truly speaks to me.
    Thank you for the opportunity
    USA

  • Bubeto_GG says:

    Despite Grossmith heritage, I find nothing dated in Phul-Nana . On the contrary I believe it’s sophisticated and opulent fragrance going through a lot of phases. What’s masculine and feminine in perfumery is subjective. I’m a woman, and balsamic and earthy drydown to me is the most intriguing part of Phul-Nana.
    Thanks to Lauryn and Jana Menard
    USA

  • Virginia Riley says:

    I watched a documentary that highlighted the resurrection of this brand and the original formulas and have been intrigued ever since. I especially find the aspect of modernizing a vintage formula, in addition to the succulent notes listed, extremely attractive!! I can’t wait to wear this one! I live in CA, USA.

  • petergigov says:

    What I find fascinating about Grossmith is the fact they were, and still are family owned business. In the world of corporate mergings that’s rare. A lot of niche brands sold themselves to massive corporations, and in my opinion lost their identity. Grossmith choose a different path , good for them .
    Phul-Nana checks all the boxes, it’s balsamic, ambery, spicy, floral and slightly sweet. Formal occasions fragrance of highest quality.
    Exciting giveaway, USA
    Regards

  • I was thinking about trends in fashion and perfumery, most just come and go , but some are meant to stay. It’s almost unbelievable how you can tweak a bit 200 years old formula, and make it relevant again. Delicate sweetness, citruses, white flowers and orange , Phul-Nana is true classic that I need to try.
    Thanks for the draw
    USA

  • WaltherP99 says:

    Grossmith and Phul-Nana i smelled at Roja Dove’s Haute Parfumerie in Harrod’s. I was told Roja Dove played vital role in the revival of the brand.
    Phul-Nana smells like ceremony in Hindu temple in India , if you observed one , you know. Thousands of petals of different flowers , incense resins burning , fruits on plates.
    Saffron Rose and Phul-Nana are the two Grossmith fragrances i like the most.
    Fragrance Vault is great place to shop, if you’re looking for vintage or discontinued fragrances.
    I follow all 4 profiles on Instagram.
    Thank you
    USA

  • Michael Prince says:

    What appeals to me about Grossmith Phul-Nana based on Lauryn’s review is a legendary fragrance brand is remaking a classic floral and resinous stunner like Phul-Nana and are modernizing and rereleasing it. I also loved learning about Grossmith London that has been around since 1835 and Phul-Nana that was originally released in 1891. I don’t have a favorite Grossmith Fragrance because I haven’t tried anything from them. I am from Ohio, USA.

  • wallygator88 says:

    Thank you for the great review Lauryn.

    I utterly enjoyed reading about this fragrance. Everything from the name to the notes sounds mysterious and beautiful.

    I’ve not had a chance to smell this house before.

    Cheers from WI, USA

  • Seven years back, I met a gentleman on a 2 hrs flight. After reaching our destination, I went to my office and spent entire day at work. In the evening, when I reached home; I realized my shirt smelled like that fellow passenger’s perfume. Next day, I called to inquire about it and he gave a good laugh. Told me it was Phul Nana by Grossmith! I searched about it and am left confused whether it’s for ladies or men?!
    Whatever the case, I need to test it once and I look forward to grab a bottle of it. Unfortunately, it ain’t available here in Pakistan and I’ll have to wait for my next trip to a country where I can find it.