Grossmith London Hasu-no-Hana Review (Richard Melchio)+ the loneliness of white DRAW

 

Grossmith London Hasu-no-Hana

paper on snow on chalk. Photo editing, creative direction, and digital editing by a_nose_knows for Grossmith London Hasu-no-Hana

 

White is the loneliest color

That we’ll ever do

“Night” is as bad as white

It’s the loneliest color since the color white.

To live in idleness, immobile and grand; to start, to end, to mourn, to open; to never receive, lest it changes you–that, indeed, is the loneliness of white.

 Grossmith London Hasu-no-Hana review

dana’s white. Art, photo, creative direction, and digital editing by a_nose_knows for Grossmith London Hasu-no-Hana

As a function of light, White is, indeed, a manifesto of our human need to end cacophony; for it is not only a recomposition of rainbows (as Isaac Newton discovered, through his crystal pyramids, in 1666), but also a result of addictive mixing: our sensory experience is the same whether all light, or only opposing colors, clash. We need white so much that we see it where it’s not, chromatically adapting our surroundings until clouds, light sand, raw silk, or the limestones of Dover look perfectly milky even in the most overcast days. We crave and fabricate white; yet  we are so particular about its nature that we immediately call it out when it’s anything other-than. Blue will never be “off-blue” to our mind’s eye; neither will fuchsia, beige, Mikado, vermillion, or sarcoline. White, on the other hand, when it’s off-white, it becomes another color.

Grossmith London Hasu-no-Hana review

vintage white mink. Photo, creative direction, and digital editing by a_nose_knows for Grossmith London Hasu-no-Hana

To be white, a surface has to fully reflect and scatter all visible wavelengths of light—any exception, and white is no longer. So stark is this rule, in fact, and so universally accepted, that true White–and the neutrality it brings–has long been on lease with humankind, offering a coat of temporary safety to those who, alone, are in transit. White is there when we’re born, in every maternity or midwifery supply basket; it’s also there when we die, both in our shrouds and in many a mourning attire, from Scotland to Japan. White is what minks and foxes wear in winter, and what pilgrims wear, and volunteers; white cranes connect us to the departed; a white flag brings peace.

Grossmith London Hasu-no-Hana

 hand-spun raw silk. Photo, creative direction, and digital editing by a_nose_knows for Grossmith London Hasu-no-Hana and  Fragrance Vault.

I would have never placed, on the vast field of artistic concepts, a power formula next to white. I’ve sometimes encountered Gershwinian monochrome ambers, or Anne Leibowitz B/W woody portraits, or even cinema noir balsamic landscapes; but white, in and through itself? Why, never. Grossmith London Hasu-no-Hana, however, straddles the same fine balance one finds in an all-white architecture, haute-couture piece, or painting: it’s large enough to allow a birds-eye view and permit variety (resins are multiple, and so is the kind of sweet it endures), textured enough to permit shadowings depending on the light (floralcy is understated but complex, and at different levels of wetness), and intentional enough to display personality (spices are very present but with just enough aplomb, much like the tannins and greenery). And, yes, to me, Hasu-no-Hana presents like an amber; in fact, it leaves me with the untouchable notion that it rejects all ambers by being all ambers at once. It doesn’t take acumen to recognize its acumen, neither does it command much knowledge to be recognizable and known; for it resplends in soleness, and—through it—endures.

Official notes: bergamot, bitter orange, rose, jasmine, ylang, iris, vetiver, patchoulioakmoss, cedarwood, sandalwood, tonka

Other perceived notes: vanilla, benzoin, musk, allspice, cyclamen, geranium, clove, labdanum, pepper, soap, wet rock, rosehip fruit, frankincense

 Disclaimer: a Grossmith London Hasu-no-Hana partial tester was sent to me by Jana Menard  founder and master curator at Fragrance Vault, after our most animated conversation moved from online to a phone line. We reveled in its beauty, and both wished it to gain more mindspace in those with classic tastes. This truly is an atemporal beauty which I will forever cherish. Thank you.

dana sandu, Editor

 

Grossmith London Hasu-no-Hana

Photo editing, creative direction, and digital editing by a_nose_knows for Grossmith London Hasu-no-Hana

Thanks to the generosity of Fragrance Vault and Grossmith London, we have a 50ml bottle(valued at $295) draw available in the US ONLY for one registered reader (you must register on our site or your comment will not count). To be eligible, please tell us what you enjoyed or found interesting about dana’s review of Grossmith London Hasu-no-Hana and if you’ve tried any Grossmith London perfumes? Draw closes 3/18/2021

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27 comments

  • BostonScentGuy says:

    I really enjoyed the architectural/aesthetic/color connections here. I’ve sampled Hasu no Hana (and the other first reissues of Grossmith), and I love the comparison to the concept of looking at variations of white. The overall powderiness in this scent (and the other Grossmith’s) is shaded in a variety of nuanced colors. Thanks for the generous draw! I’m in the US (Boston).

  • I know Hasu-no-nana because I remember it as one of the original releases after Grossmith was resurrected. I have it in the original parfum one but have not tried the other concentration. It, indeed, has a classical structure. USA

  • Interesting and very useful take on what many describe as a chypre-floral. A very beautiful and balanced composition, indeed.

  • dana painted a lovely picture of Hasu no Hana perfume (Lotus Flower in Japanese, I believe). It seems to be a very elegant perfume, using the notes listed (bergamot, bitter orange, rose, jasmine, ylang, iris, vetiver, patchouli, oakmoss, cedarwood, sandalwood, tonka), which are all classic notes. Curious as to what relative strengths these notes are in. I have not rtried any Grossmith London perfumes, yet. Thanks for the review and a generous draw. I am in USA.

  • What a beautiful ode to the presence of light. I have never heard of Hasu-no-Hana before but it sounds quite lovely and interesting. I am not quite sure I can imagine just how it smells, even by the note listing, but I enjoyed its abstract description of balance and texture. Thank you from the US.

  • The art work on this was beautiful and I enjoyed learning about the color white.I love amber perfumes and my favorite Grossmith is Betrothal which I wore on my wedding day

  • I enjoyed the description of this fragrance as a quintessential amber that is unlike any other amber. And what an opportunity to win such a precious bottle! I haven’t tried any of the creations from Grossmith London, but I am curious. The notes sound wonderful and, as always, I appreciate Dana’s list of perceived notes and accords too. In am in the DFW area.

  • dana, thank you for this review! Thank you to The Fragrance Vault and Grossmith for the generosity of the draw.

    It was fascinating to see you review this as a juxtaposition of amber and white. The way you describe it as all Amber’s but rejecting them as such is fantastic. I’m an ardent lover of things amber and that skew amber, so this sounds perfect to me!

    I’ve never tried any of the Grossmith perfumes, but I really must, and visiting The Fragrance Vault in person is on my bucket list.

    I’m in Massachusetts

  • I liked how apparently this fragrance really moved the writer. This was a deep breakdown.I personally was drawn in on that this is a classic sent/gentleman.I have not tried Grossmith London Perfumes . Definitely like to try this.

    USA

  • Absolutely love the photos for this piece; the beautiful Grossmith bottle on a white canvas. I enjoyed Dana’s experience with and exploration of this timeless fragrance in a poetic way. I have never tried this or anything of Grossmith, but heard a lot about Hasu-no-hana. Would love to try this! (NYC)

  • Haus-no-Hana seems like an interesting take on white. I associate the color it with purity, cleanliness and softness. A blend of clean musks spring immediately to mind. The notes listed and the amber vibe dana describes, sounds warm. I see lots of spice, citrus and woods and resins. The composition sounds gorgeous and haute and I love the ribbed, columnar bottle. Commenting from MD, USA.

  • Such interesting observations (such as the one about off-white). I haven’t tried any Grossmiths yet and am intrigued by an amber “that rejects all ambers by. . .” I’ve been wanting to transcend the coziness of my amber loves lately so this sounds like a good way to do that.

    Haven’t been on site in years and it’s great to see you are still here! In the USA still.

  • Dubaiscents says:

    I’ve sampled all the Grossmith scents and own a bottle of the magical Shem El Nessim, one of my all time favorite scents. This review makes me want to revisit the entire line. The photography and use of white are perfect. Thank you so much for the draw Fragrance Vault and Cafleurebon. US

  • I enjoyed the explanation of how the color white appeals to our senses, consciously and subconsciously. We see the color as pure but also how off-white changes color altogether. While I’ve never tried any fragrances from this house but I’m extremely interested. I live in Indiana USA

  • A really fascinating review in terms of the conceptual nature of white as a color. I have a sample of one of Grossmith’s perfumes and loved it. Many thanks to Dana for this review and many thanks to Fragrance Vault for making this draw possible. I’m in the USA

  • From what I’ve read of Dana’s reviews, she seems to always come up with a startlingly original image to associate with a scent. I can’t imagine anyone else conjuring such a meditation on the color white. I don’t think I have a grasp on how this smells, but that seems besides the point. What a gift to us perfume fans.
    I haven’t tried anything by Grossmith London. (Southern California)

  • I absolutely love the description of the loneliness of white. Beautiful. And an amber that rejects all ambers by being all ambers is the kind of dichotomy that I adore. I’ve never tried any Grassmith London Perfumes but I would love to. I am in the US.

  • doveskylark says:

    This is another lovely review from dana, one that presents a new way to perceive light and the color white. I have always thought amber fragrances bring comfort, like the swaddling in white does. I always love reading dana’s perceived notes and comparing them to the official notes.
    I haven’t tried any Grossmith London perfumes.
    I live in the USA.

  • Beautiful imagery and images as I’ve come to expect from dana! I really loved “it rejects all ambers by being all ambers at once.” I have never tried this house but this fragrance sounds like a good place to start. Thanks for the review & the draw. I’m in the US.

  • Honestly the review was a little over my head but it was certainly well written. Note breakdown sounds enticing so thanks for the giveaway. I’m in the US, Cheers.

  • wallygator88 says:

    Thank you for the great review on the house dana! It is always fascinating to hear your perspective on the fascinating/eccentric fragrances.

    I love how your review brought to my attention that the the only color that has an off- attached to it is with respect to white.

    Such a poignant articulation of this fragrance
    “And, yes, to me, Hasu-no-Hana presents like an amber; in fact, it leaves me with the untouchable notion that it rejects all ambers by being all ambers at once. It doesn’t take acumen to recognize its acumen, neither does it command much knowledge to be recognizable and known; for it resplends in soleness, and—through it—endures.”

    I have not tried any fragrances from this house.

    Cheers from WI, USA

  • I haven’t tried anything from this fragrance house yet. Honestly, within the review, there didn’t seem to be enough of a description of the fragrance; I still am very interested in trying it though. According to the review, and to the listings of notes, it seems like a pleasant fragrance which has some spices, floralness, resins, and more. It seems like it might be a floral chypre. I live in MD., U.S.A.

  • I enjoyed reading about dana’s description of the color white. Also, I do love reading about dana’s perceived notes. I haven’t tried any fragrances from Grossmith London. Thanks for another great article and generous draw! Mich USA

  • Michael Prince says:

    What I found interesting about Dana’s review of Grossmith London Hasu-no-Hana is her detailed intro about the color of different shades of white and how she relates that to ambers in this fragrance. I haven’t tried anything from Grossmith London. I am from the USA.

  • Surprised to see this described as amber-like and purely white – I have seen this one categorized as a chypre… which I usually think of as austere but dusky, compared to ambers, which connote warmth to me, no matter where they fall on the “light to dark” spectrum. This review feels emotional, which is a good sign for a fragrance. I haven’t tried any Grossmith London perfumes, but this would be an interesting place to start. I’m in the US, thanks for the review and hosting the draw.

  • This was a very interesting meditation on white, and I’m very curious how it presents as an Amber. I haven’t tried any Grossmith London perfumes yet. I live in the USA.

  • Patchouli and rose that remind me of a great Patchouli form SMN.
    I`m curious how it will combine in this story

    Europe