Esxence 2019: Nomenclature Fluo_ral Review (Nathalie Feisthauer) + Fantastic Realism Draw

May 13, 2019May 13, 2019

Carlos Quintero and Karl Bradl of Nomenclature

Nomenclature Fluo_ral, the latest fragrance from co-founders and creative directors Karl Bradl and Carlos Quintero and award-winning perfumer Nathalie Feisthauer, explores the border, the meniscus so to speak, between the fantastic and the realistic. With the new Fluo_ral, the science of chemistry and the art of perfumery once again fuse, offering a cohesive olfactory glimpse of an imaginal world, a scent landscape that reflects nature but does not imitate it.

Photo of Nathalie Feisthauer courtesy of Nomenclature NYC

A notion, or a premonition perhaps, of fantastic realism in fragrance has been around since the first aroma chemical was synthesized. With Nomenclature Fluo_ral, Nathalie Feisthauer brings a vivid florescent twist to aquatic olfactory fantasy. Her deft and skillful use of the molecule Calone ® (AKA Watermelon Ketone) is an exciting, magical interpretation of the familiar marine theme.

“In the 90s, Calone was used for clean, limpid aquatic scents. In Fluo_ral, Nathalie Feisthauer amps up its transparency by backlighting it with green notes so bright they veer on the fluorescent.” – Nomenclature

Splashing Rhubarb Leaves – Photo Collage by Gail Gross ©

My first impression of Fluo_ral is of an ultra bright green, crunchy, rhubarb aura. The stalks and leaves of the rhubarb plant are very wet – 95 percent water – the perfect vegetal compliment to lively, ozonic Colone. In short order the tart, juicy, slightly soapy-sweet amalgam of pucker power that is “rhubarb” is mitigated by a wave of the darkly sweet, mint-y mystery of black current buds.

Pink pepper and hints of the leaves of tomato create the sparkling, eerie effect of bioluminescent plankton glimmering along a dark strand. Glowing blues, neon greens, deep purples and pinks float on an ocean of cool black rose and metallic Somalian incense. After about five hours on skin, the glow and glitter of Nomenclature Fluo_ral fades into a breath of cedarwood and the ever-present freshness of the seaside.

So many common and familiar plants, rocks and minerals – and even animals -fluoresce and phosphoresce. Our world literally glows with light that, most of the time, we cannot or will not see. Nomenclature Fluo_ral reminds me to look a little closer, observe more carefully and find the fantastic and the magical in the realism of the myriad worlds that surround us all.

Notes: Calone ®, marine green, pink pepper, black currant, rhubarb, tomato leaves, rose, Somalian incense and cedarwood.

Nomenclature Fluo_ral Presentation Box with “Glo Pebbles” – Photo by Gail Gross

Disclaimer: I would like to thank Nomenclature for the beautifully fragrant experience of Fluo_ral, boxed with copies of their stunning art – and “Glo Pebbles”.

Editor’s Note: The Italian Distributor at Esxence 2019 had these to give out to fragrance reviewers. A unique presentation!

Gail Gross – Senior Editor

Nomenclature Fluo_ral courtesy of Nomenclature

Thanks to the generosity of Nomenclature we have one 50 ml bottle of Nomenclature Fluo_ral (for one registered reader in the US (be sure to register or your comment will not count). To be eligible, tell us what appeals to you about Nomenclature Fluo_ral based on Gail’s review and your favorite fragrance from Nomenclature. Draw closes 5/16/2019

Available at @aedes_perfumery @twistedlily and @saksfifthavenue and other fine stockists

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our Blog feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.