Esxence 2019: Hiram Green Lustre Review + One Perfect Rose Draw

Hiram Green Lustre Review

Detail from Roses of Heliogabalus by Lawrence Alma-Tadema Tutti Art 

“I’d rather have roses on my table than diamonds on my neck.” ~ Emma Goldman. So would I, Ms. Goldman,  but roses upon my neck would pleasure me no end. I’d wager that artisanal natural perfumer Hiram Green’s latest release, Lustre would have satisfied us both with his One Perfect Rose – for that is the nature of this luminous sun-basked soliflore. We smelt many roses, beautifully adorned and not – at Esxence 2019, but Hiram Green Lustre was an undeniable standout. My beloved husband is particularly ‘rose perfume-averse’, associating them unfavorably with his English early childhood – but he too has been smitten. That tells a story, right there…

 Best natural rose perfumes

Photo of Rose Centifolia by Brandusa Paulescu

Hiram Green has proven time and again that exquisitely composed botanical fragrances may possess longevity and intricacy rivaling any others in the playing field. His creations loom like scented spectres with sillage: nothing timid or self-apologetic about them. Lustre fosters a form of aromatic ecstatic experience I liken to that which emanated from the body of St. Thérèse de Lisieux (The Little Flower) and Padre Pio’s stigmata immediately upon their demise, lingering for days afterward; the blessed Mother Mary was also known as Our Lady of Roses. In Islam, the Prophet Mohammed and divine beauty are associated with the rose – the Flower of Heaven. Roses symbolize passion and sanctity in equal parts, which may account for their widespread appeal (to those among us who venerate them. Not everyone loves roses.).

Hiram Green Perfumes Lustre review

Detail from Roses of Heliogabalus by Lawrence Alma-Tadema

Hiram Green Lustre glows with citrus at the outset, those mouthwatering low molecular weight molecules which impart their tart juiciness as fitting counterpart to Bulgarian rose with its notes of earthy green, peppery, citrus and voluptuously sweet elegance. We experience an immediate authenticity – dewy, delicate yet tenacious, garden-fresh. At some point, precious orris enters the scene but does so seamlessly, providing a subtly woody effect and contributing to the perfume’s longevity without creating the anticipated ‘lipstick’ accord. We still register rose. Olibanum (boswellia serrata), also known as frankincense – is sweetly woody, balsamic with citrus notes and pepperiness, a complex resin which is able to modulate sweetness and prolong the perfume’s staying power. It isn’t until a few hours into Lustre’s drydown that the filaments of olibanum assert a bit more prominence; that said, I hope you can envision how these high quality materials dovetail so compellingly. The rose soliflore theme is never once violated, a tribute to the perfumer’s considerable skill. In addition to all the other gifts Hiram Green has so open-heartedly offered, he proffers us the perfect rose.

Notes: Bulgarian rose, citrus, orris, olibanum

Sample kindly provided by perfumer Hiram Green – many thanks! My nose is my own…

~ Ida Meister, Senior Editor and Natural Perfumery Editor

~ Art Direction: Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief

Hiram Green of Hiram Green Perfumes Hyde Art and Olfaction 2019 award

Photo of Hiram Green and his Golden Pear

We at ÇaFleureBon would like to congratulate Hiram Green upon his recent Art and Olfaction Award in the artisanal category for his perfume Hyde! Well done!

Hiram Green Lustre by Hiram Green

Hiram Green Lustre  50ml by Ann

Thanks to the ongoing generosity of Ann Onusko of Indigo Perfumery, we are offering one 50 ml bottle of Hiram Green Lustre to one registered reader in the U.S. To be eligible you must be a registered reader. Please leave a comment what you liked about Ida’s post, if you are an admirer of one perfect rose, and your favorite Hiram Green fragrance.  Draw ends May 24, 2019

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like ÇaFleureBon and use our Blog feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

 

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53 comments

  • One Perfect Rose sounds intriguing, since I am a rose lover. The accompanying notes seem like perfect complements to the Bulgarian rose. Maybe this will be the one perfect rose for me.

  • Great review by Ida. I love how she explain the note composition. The notes of Rose, iris and Frankincense sounds amazing to me. I live in CA, USA.

  • Christi L. says:

    I am dying to smell this! I just recently discovered Hiram Green fragrances and am semi-obsessed! I am blown away by the quality and structure, and how they wear is amazing considering they are entirely natural. Moon Flower is one of the most beautiful tuberose fragrances I have ever smelled so I’m naturally greatly anticipating trying Lustre as rose is my favorite note. What did I like about Ida’s piece? EVERYTHING! From the initial quote to the last word, it was all about rose, rose, rose! Dorothy Parker may have wanted a limousine but I had rather have one perfect rose! And it sounds like Hiram’s could be it. I’m in the USA. Thanks for another wonderful giveaway!

  • I am always in search of the perfect rose perfume…not a simple rose but with something to dampen the ‘rosey-ness’…this sounds really nice. Never had the chance to sample a Hiram Green perfume but would love the chance to do so. Thank you…I am in the US.

  • Rose is my favorite note, so this sounds amazing to me. Slowdive is my favorite Hiram Green, it’s the most realistic honey note I’ve ever smelled. Thanks for the draw, live in the US.

  • fazalcheema says:

    Lustre is a rose fragrance that may even appeal to those who don’t like rose perfumes. it has olibanum so it seems it has some oriental elements, too. I like the roses from the subcontinent as they have very rich scent. My favorite from Hiram Green is his limited edition Voyage which I also have. I am in US

  • recursivemask says:

    This sounds intriguing, I love unsweetened florals, and this sounds like an intriguing fragrance. Thank you for providing that contextualization of roses, history is always an interesting subject and I love learning about it! Unfortunately I haven’t had a chance to sniff any of Hiram Green’s fragrances. I’m in the US.

  • Perfume can be a foreign language difficult to learn. We are all blindfolded to a degree because it is our nose that see. Ida’s post guided me through this new scent, planting a citrus and rose garden in my mind. I love the name of this one, Lustre. While the definition includes brilliance, I can’t help but see the “lust” in lustre which I find fitting for the rose. The “flower of heaven”—would be the rose I’d want to smell. My favorite Hiram Green is Moonbloom, but I have not sniffed them all.

  • NiceVULady says:

    Always I’da’s reviews are amazing. I’m also somewhat “rose adversive,” but this sounds like something I would really enjoy., especially as Ida’s husband actually liked it. I haven’t had an opportunity to try any of Hiram Green’s fragrances, but I would love to try this one. Thank you for the review and thank you for the generous draw. I’m in the USA.

  • Elizabeth T. says:

    What a generous draw! Thank you, Ann! I don’t think I’ve ever seen a photo of Hiram Green, so I love being able to connect his face with his line. I have not had the pleasure of smelling any of his creations, though I hear wonderful things about them all the time, now including this wonderful article! Ida is obviously a true rose lover. She speaks of it as an intimate friend would. I love the short list of notes… it sounds as if the rose is truly allowed to shine in this. Thank you again for the generous draw and article! I’m in the USA.

  • Oh be still my heart….Hiram Green creates a rose perfume. Yes! Yes! Yes! Even Ida’s husband “has be smitten.” Seriously, I understand the love of roses. They are beautiful to the eye and smell wonderful. If anyone can create a magnificent rose perfume it is Hiram Green, I know I would love Lustre. USA.

  • I love the way you introduce this beauty to us. Rose is my second favorite note after iris and Hiram Green is one of my favorite noses. I have his ShangriLa. I live in USA. Thanks for the giveaway..

  • Dubaiscents says:

    I have to pick just one favorite Hiram Green scent?! How is that possible? I will go with my first bottle, Dilettante, for its pure joy in a bottle. Lustre sounds amazing because I can’t wait to see what he has done with rose! Thanks to the amazing Indigo perfumery for the draw! I live in the US.

  • Hiram Green – every release a winner! Congrats on your Golden Pear Mr Green! Ms Ida, if you mention “earthy” & “dewy”, I’m already intrigued. Thanks for another fabulous draw! USA

  • I love the way Ida writes about perfume. I can smell every nuance from her words. I wish that I could grow fragrant roses, so often the roses we get at the florists just don’t measure up. I am a big fan of Hiram Green Shangri La, but also love Dilettante and Moon Bloom! I am in the US.

  • Harbinger says:

    Loved this review. Favorite rose is Chloe. I don’t have a favorite Hiram Green as I have yet to try the brand. Thank you for this draw. In the USA.

  • Beautifully written review. I enjoyed reading it very much.
    love a varitety of fresh roses!
    Have never yet had the pleasure of sampling any Hiram Green perfume
    thank you for the pleasant read

  • bigscoundrel says:

    Lustre sounds like a wonderfully beautiful natural rose fragrance. I haven’t tried a Hiram Green fragrance, but that has to change soon! I’m in the USA.

  • Tora Routhier says:

    You had me at “One perfect rose”. I have had a long search for the perfect rose, and Hiram Green always impresses me with his incredibly well-crafted perfumes. Moon Bloom was a revelation! Ida, you make this sound so enticing. I never enter perfume draws, but I would love to experience this “Bulgarian rose with its notes of earthy green, peppery, citrus and voluptuously sweet elegance.”

  • gvillecreative says:

    This is the first launch I’ve been excited about in 2019— and even more so, after reading Ida describe the structure. A tart opening, plus orris and frankincense! I’ve only tried one Hiram Green so far (Dilletante) and was struck by how beautifully it radiated from my skin. Dying to try Lustre! Ann, thank you for the generous draw!!

  • When everyone says it’s good, you begin to believe. I have heard nothing but praise for this perfume and your description makes this rose sound so mouthwateringly good. And I do love frankincense so that’s a plus too. Thank you for the review and to Indigo Perfumes.

  • OMG, I am in love with Hiram Green and don’t own a single bottle. I totally learned something new. I love ALL of his fragrances. They make me swoon. But, I never knew he was a natural perfumer. I never liked natural perfumes because they usually are bitter, herbal, medicinal and sometimes weak. Little did I know. Thanks for the info. Rose is my fave note. I think I would die in bliss if I won this bottle. I also live in Cleveland and love Indigo Perfumery and Ann. What a winning combo.

  • Damiana C says:

    I am immensely intrigued by this rose fragrance with an orris note. I have heard much about Hiram Green’ fragrances but I haven’t tried any of them yet. I live in the USA.

  • I loved Ida review and always wait before purchasing until I read her. I have followed Hiram Green since Moonbloom and am now going to buy this from Indigo Perfumery if I don’t win
    A perfect rose sounds well perfect

  • VerbenaLuvvr says:

    I’ve come full circle in my perfume journey. In the beginning, as a child, I started with a rose collection inspired by my Grandmother and her wonderful lingering scent, then drifted elsewhere throughout my life, exploring many rabbit trails. I’ve now recently rediscovered my love for roses, particularly the wild rose and the English Rose, their comforting aura, and the sentimental attachments they recall. Lovely and evocative review, Ms. Ida, as always. I do not yet have a favorite fragrance from this perfumer, so thank you for the opportunity to experience. I live in the US.

  • I would love to try this woody rose soliflore! I have a sample of voyage and it is amazing. Ida’s words are always beautiful, as a rose, dewy, delicate yet tenacious, garden-fresh. Thank you for the chance to try. USA

  • Robert Herrmann says:

    Bravo Ida! A gorgeous review. You perfectly captured the very essence of Lustre! It is an extraordinary work of art and positively sings on my skin. My bottle arrived yesterday and I couldn’t be happier so DNEM. xoxo

  • redwheelbarrow says:

    Sounds lovely. I continually find myself drawn to rose, yet I am still learning the differences and intricacies of the different varieties. I too would prefer to be draped in roses over diamonds. I have yet to try an Hiram Green fragrances but I am now curious. I’m in the US, thank you for the giveaway and the review!

  • wildevoodoo says:

    Wow! Ida’s description is so evocative! I can practically see and smell a sparkling vision of springtime as she describes the glowing citrus dovetailing perfectly into the rose. And having been raised Catholic, her comparison of the rose of Lustre to the scent of ecstasy emanating from the stigmata of Padre Pio and the body of Ste. Therese de Lisieux is compelling for me in a particularly unique and indescribable way, having heard stories of these prominent figures in Catholicism since childhood. While I loved the soft, luscious rose supported by ambergris and smoked almond in Velvet by Commodity, the batches were so inconsistent. As I have already finished the bottle with the best and most rose-centric balance, and especially now that Commodity has declared bankruptcy and gone out of business, my hunt for my One Perfect Rose continues. I would love for Lustre to be the next candidate, particularly since I have never tried a Hiram Green fragrance before! I am in the US 🙂

  • There are two things that amaze me about the world of perfumery: first, what we can experience with our senses – the perfumes themselves and second, how people are able to write about them so eloquently. As I find other mediums easier for expression rather than writing, reading this is like reading some very sensual poetry, in other words – I’m sold.
    A rose as the symbol of sanctity gave a great new dimension to my understanding of this flower as I have always thought of it being proud and romantic. Definitely very intrigued by this fragrance! But from what he has composed so far, my favourite from Hiram Green is Dilettante.

  • Sounds really nice. I do enjoy the scent of rose and this combo of rose with orris is intriguing to me. Haven’t got a chance to try a Hiram Green fragrance. Thanks, US

  • drewactor says:

    Great review. Love fose fragrances and the spiced note of frankensense sound perfect together. Also like the additon of cirtus notes with the rose .Never tried Hiram Green before but heard goos things especislly about Hyde. Im in the USA. Thanks for the draw.

  • Never heard of Hiram Green before, but all the notes I like a lot , plus the review was impressive.
    Good longevity is always a plus , especially for botanical fragrances.
    What’s “perfect rose” is extremely subjective. To me Noir de Noir Tom Ford is rose fragrance I adore. Is it perfect? To me yes , but for someone else could be average.
    Thanks for the draw and the review.
    Usa

  • WaltherP99 says:

    Citruses , rose , orris and frankincense ? What a gorgeous combination.
    I do own and love Slowdive by Hiram (50ml) and i’ve sampled all but the new Lustre , and my expectations are high – well blended , natural smelling fragrance with good longevity , and decent sillage.That’s what i expect.I also hope frankincense will be more pronounced on me.
    Also like Hyde – a sweet-smoky-boozy and a bit herbal complex scent.I do remember Ida liked it too , but for different reasons.
    Own a lot of different rose fragrances , and vintage Oud Ispahan by Christian Dior is one of the few i call a perfect rose.
    Thank you Ida , Cafleurebon and Indigo Perfumery.
    Of course i do follow @hiram_green , @indigoperfumery and @cafleurebon on Instagram.
    Virginia

  • So excited to smell Luster; I’m a fan of both Arbole and Slowdive. Intrigued by the description of the elegant open… the green, the citrus and, of course, the rose.

    I’m in CA. Thanks!!

  • IvanVelikov says:

    If both Ida Meister and her husband are genuinely by this rose fragrance i presume it will be a special one. Tart citrus , bulgarian rose, orris and olibanum – sounds sophisticated. Usually narural fragrances=poor performance , but not this time. Good.
    No persoanl expirience with Hiram Green . A reviewer on Youtube that i like called Fragrance View did a positive review of Slowdive .
    Thank you Ida for the Exquisite review.
    USA

  • d3m0lici0n says:

    Great review, a big fan of roses. Citrusy, green plus roses sounds like the perfect rose for summer, I’d love to win this one.
    I live in the US

  • I like the idea behind Hiram Green Lustre – juicy citruses , frankincense , orris and of course the star of the show Bulgarian rose.
    Personally I like my fragrances strong and loud. With just a few exceptions I’m not willing to pay over $160/50ml for some close the the skin fragrance , even if longevity is good.
    Yes there is one rose fragrance I admire . It’s called Portrait of a Lady , and it’s made by Frederic Malle . One of the most precious bottles in my collection. It is a masterpiece.
    I’m sure Lustre is a high end rose smell , and I’ll be super excited if I’m the winner.
    Congrats Ida for the fine job.
    USA

  • I’m all about the rose. I loved how Ida described the progression of this perfume and how the soliflore quality was never lost. Thank you Ida for your review. My favorite Hiram Greene fragrance so far is Shangri La. I live in the US.

    Thank you Cafleurebon and Ann of Indigo for your generosity.

  • Bubeto_GG says:

    Interesting break my miss Ida Meister .The notes i like , the review is nice – Bulgarian rose, citrus, orris, frankincense .Lustre should be pretty good , and unlike .. not all , but most other natural fragrances do have decent performance..Sign me up pls
    I’ve never smelled any Hiram Green perfumes , but i do remember Yana from Tommelise Youtube channel did some reviews,and she was genuinely impressed.Also Ida did Hyde review a few months back here on Cafleurebon.
    Tnx for the generosity
    Usa

  • Uncle1979 says:

    I’m not familiar with Hiram Green, but I’ll try to get some samples. Being born in Bulgaria, and spent my childhood there I’m used to smell a lot of roses and rose oils, so I’m curious how well the rose is implemented in Lustre .
    Also I do love the smell of frankincense since I was a kid . Add some citrus and orris and we should have a winner.
    Not only for the smell, I’m also curious about Lustre because of Ida’s longevity claims. Usually botanical fragrances equals poor longevity and little to no projection.
    If I got your question right, I don’t think perfect rose fragrance exists, but Noir de Noir by Tom Ford is my favorite one.
    Thank you Ida for introducing this house to us, to me at least.
    USA

  • tuiu silver says:

    Ida’s description sound just DELICIOUS.
    I’m a Rose Lover, and Citrus with green, peppery and earthy elements definitely is up my alley.
    The transition of the fragrance, starting from a greenish rose to a woody and resinous nuance mamde me extremely excited to try this out.
    Moon Bloom is my favorite from the house, which have a gorgeous creamy and floral approach.
    I would like to join the draw please.

  • Yes!!! Spicy rose fragrances are my absolute FAVE! This sounds amazing! I love all types of roses. I have no favorite. Though, the note Rose de Grasse is one of the prettier ones. I’ve never smelled anything from Hiram Green. Would love to try this one out.
    I live in the US.

  • I just love the lovely pictures of roses. Ida did a great job capturing the essence of the perfume. I love the citrus note.

  • Michael Prince says:

    Ida, great review of Hiram Green Lustre. I enjoyed the description of the evolution of this fragrance from the top citrus notes, to a perfect heart of bulgarian rose and orris, and a base of my favorite resin olibanum. I have not sampled One Perfect Rose, but I am sure I would enjoy it. I don’t have a favorite Hiram Green fragrance because I haven’t sampled anything from this house. I am from the USA.

  • Ida’s writing always sucks me right in. I had already heard about Lustre and wanted to get my nostrils on some…..after reading Ida’s review I’m practically panting! (it’s not attractive; trust me). I adore rose…rose doesn’t always adore me…but when it does work: I love it so much.
    I’d also like to give Ann Onusko a shout out for her lovely shop and her amazing generosity! Indigo Perfumery is a fabulous place!

  • AlwaysWater says:

    I have been checking the net every day since Lustre was released, hoping to find a detailed review, and this does not disapoint! Thanks Ida for describing the way Frankincense works in the fragrance. It’s a note I love but would not associate with roses, but with incense and meditation. When you wrote that the rose has long symbolized both spiritual and romantic ecstasy it made total sense however.
    Slowdive has been a winter favorite of mine for its golden warmth, and just as I was starting to look for a lighter perfume for summer, thinking “should I give Shangri La a try next?” this wonderful new release happened 🙂 perfect

  • doveskylark says:

    I am very curious about a soliflore from Hiram Green. I love that there are citrus notes with the rose. I enjoy the citrus in Hyde, a remarkable fragrance that has a citrus beginning to guide the wearer to the birch and smoke. I sometimes find rose fragrances old fashioned. This one sounds crisp and modern.
    I live in the USA.

  • I find rose also very difficult to wear as I never think rose perfumes smell as lovely as the fresh blossom itself. But the Iris, orris, and frankincense to balance this fragrance sounds really lovely. I don’t think I’ve tried anything from this house before either. I live in the USA. Thanks for the giveaway!