At the Moulin Rouge:  Two Women Waltzing by Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, 1892

The ninth and  final of the DSH Perfumes Heirloom Elixir collection for 2019, No. 9 DSH Perfumes Lautrec, is an adaptation of her original Lautrec fragrance that premiered in 2011, a collaboration between DSH Perfumes owner and perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz and creative director/CaFleureBon Editor in Chief Michelyn Camen. The first Lautrec was created in celebration of CaFleureBon’s first anniversary. Considering Dawn Spencer Hurwitz’s and Michelyn Camen’s backgrounds in both visual art and fragrance, it only seems natural that an abundance of purposeful design, seasoned with spontaneity, would once inspire the new version eight and half years later!

Left – Actor Kawarazaki Gonjuro in the Dressing Room by Kunisada, 1789-1864.  Right – Woman With a Black Boa by Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, 1892 (one of the images that inspired the 2011 Lautrec).

I am amazed by the parallel influences and serendipity that come together in the new version of  DSH Perfumes Lautrec. I can’t help but wonder if it is simply coincidence that, just before the November 24th birthday of the inimitable French artist Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, I find myself reviewing a perfume named in his honor! DSH Perfumes Lautrec, imbued with the painter’s rich and colorful imagery of 19th century fin de siècle Paris, presents an olfactory reflection of his art. The styles and designs of the Toulouse-Lautrec’s images of Parisian brothels and theatres often mirror the ukiyo-e woodblock prints depicting the “floating worlds” of Japan’s Edo period.  Dawn Spencer Hurwitz’s olfactory memories and re-creations of her experiences of Japanese culture and art seem to parallel the French painter’s techniques. Connections and congruencies abound!

DSH Perfumes Lautrec Heirloom Elixir No 9, composite photo by Gail Gross ©

Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, his name synonymous with Belle Époque Montmartre, was not only an incredibly talented artist but also a renowned gourmand and quirky, creative cook.  L’Art de la Cuisine, a collection of his recipes, was published many years after his death by Maurice Joyant, his friend and art dealer. It is said that Toulouse-Lautrec invented a powerful cocktail, Le Tremblement de Terre (the earthquake) consisting of three parts Absinthe and 3 parts cognac! Knowing this, I was not surprised at the controlled explosion of sweet Absinthe and the triple shot of cognac that greeted my nose at first whiff of  DSH Perfumes Lautrec Heirloom Elxir 9.

“Absinthe” by Gail Gross ©

DSH Perfumes Lautrec opens bright and green, like the sharply sweet, vegetal Absinthe, a reputedly hallucinogenic liqueur created from tinctures of the flowers and leaves of Artemisia absinthium ,distilled and spiked with anise and a variety of other culinary and medicinal herbs. The mélange of rich, warm cognac, exotic, juicy passion fruit and boozy davana at the heart of Lautrec is pervaded by this same sparkling halo of artemisia. Slowly, the potent, erotic cordial that is Lautrec melts and melds into an opulent bouquet of antique roses, jasmine, mimosa and powdery orris.

La Goulue Arrives at the Moulin Rouge by Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, 1892

 Twelve hours later I am relaxing in the sensual dry down of vanillac balsams, spicy resins, sandalwood and civet, as timeless and engaging as the creations of the renowned artist himself.  With DSH Perfumes Lautrec, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz paints an olfactory masterpiece that pulls me into another time and place, “…a nocturnal world filled with swirling gaiety and drunken frivolities at the Moulin Rouge.” – Dawn Spencer Hurwitz

Ball at the Moulin Rouge by Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, 1889-90.

DSH Perfumes Lautrec Heirloom Elixir No 9 Lautrec can be worn any time of the year and for any celebration, but it’s sweet, gourmand, boozy character makes it especially appropriate for the holiday season. And like Toulouse-Lautrec, who left this world on 9/9/1901, DSH Perfumes Lautrec is also a limited edition, and will be with us for only a short time – from 11/9/2019 through 1/9/2020.

Notes:  Bergamot, orange flower absolute, passion fruit, Absinthe, artemisia/wormwood, cognac, davana, mimosa absolute, spice, Sambac jasmine, Moroccan rose absolute, centifolia rose absolute, ylang-ylang, orris concrete, amber, caramel, patchouli, Australian sandalwood, labdanum, moss, vanilla, tolu balsam, Siam benzoin and civet.

Disclaimer: I would like to thank DSH Perfumes for my amazing experience of Lautrec.  My opinions are my own.

 

Gail Gross – Senior Editor

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Many thanks Dawn Spencer Hurwitz and DSH Perfumes for very generously providing a draw for ¼ ounce of the beautiful Heirloom Elixir No. 9 Lautrec Extrait for one registered reader worldwide. To be eligible for the draw, please leave a comment saying what appeals to you about DSH Perfumes Lautrec based upon Gail’s review and also tell us where you live. Draw closes 11/25/2019

We have reviewed each of the 2019 Heirloom Elixirs (please note  that in 2020 the series will continue). Please take a moment to read Gail’s review of Gold Leaf here. Lauryn’s review of Sharkskin # 7 here and Wild Coyote # 6 here. You can read Ida’s review of #5 White Rabbits here and Love is Everything #4 here, Number #2 and #3 Oudh Blanc and Aoud Noir by Lauryn here.  The first was Essenza dell Ibisco, which I had the honor of collaborating with Dawn with reviewed by Ida here. You can read about the Heirloom Elixirs here.  –Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief

 

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