DSH Perfumes Black Viola Review (Dawn Spencer Hurwitz) 2021 + Violet Trio no.1 Draw

 

 DSH Perfumes Black Viola Violet trio no 1 review

 Violets by Michelyn for DSH Perfumes Black Viola

 

Darkness darkness, be my pillow
Take my head and let me sleep
In the coolness of your shadow
In the silence of your dream ~ Jesse Colin Young, songwriter

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz of DSH Perfumes

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz of DSH Perfumes

Award-winning artisanal perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz’s fecund, prolific creativity never ceases to stun me. Objectively speaking, how can it not? One might drown in her immense body of quality compositions without a spirit guide or two to help shepherd an unacquainted olfactory enthusiast along the path. Perhaps this where folk such as I may prove useful; we smell many and then, hopefully – you perhaps have a better feel for her fragrances, and those which might appeal to your predilections. Goodness knows, there are choices aplenty.

DSH Perfumes Violettes de L’Aube review

 Violet watercolor via Dawn

One of Dawn’s recent collections is a trio of violet fragrances, each unique. The second one, Violettes de L’Aube – is a fresh, dewy geosmin-redolent delight; if you were fond of her Giverny in Bloom (I am), you will sense beautiful echoes here. The third selection, Eclissi Lunare by Alba Foresta (Dawn’s Italian alter ego) – is a misty powder puff kissed with sweetness, a touch of teas, mimosa, heliotrope and soft musks. It is her first fragrance, DSH Perfumes Black Viola – a witchy, enchanted crepuscular violet chypre – which claimed me. Let’s explore it together…

 

Black Viola sketch via Dawn

To describe Black Viola as complex would be an understatement. It’s gorgeously moody in a soulful vein, and like my favored fine fragrances, it takes the wearer on a journey. That said, Dawn has composed linear-like scents with a more masterful hand than many – but my decided preference is to travel via perfume. I want to be wooed, lured, seduced, fin This is precisely where DSH Perfumes Black Viola succeeds; on several levels, it is a relative of my beloved Muresque in that its ensorcelled tale insinuates mystery (a favorite variant of insinuation). Violet is on the menu beyond a doubt, and she is far from shy. Her companions accentuate a deeply jammy aspect of her nature while contributing to a winelike facet: raspberry leaf, a plush black ripe fig accord, Dawn’s proprietary Cabernet accord and a deft dose of cassis bud surround her with fruity sophistication. Yes, sophistication; this particular violet is highly sophisticated and a bit wanton as well. It is all about balance and counterbalance – the cool irones and ionones present in violet and orris are greatly enhanced by Turkish and Bulgarian roses’ luscious damascones and geranium’s herbal/floral character Violet leaf lends its leafy vegetal verdancy alive with a tender grassy earthiness and candied note; mimosa (frequently included in many violet perfumes) is sunny and lightly indolic, further fleshing out a sweet delicate powdery quality. Musky, dusky coloration is underscored by exotic woods, tobacco absolute’s richness, musky and ozonic animalics,  oakmoss and myrrh. The conclusive result is a compelling chypre which captures violet’s sweetness while intimating the depth of its mythic crepuscular charms. A breathtaking dusky violet tinged with mystery and perhaps a whisper of subterranean menace…

Notes: raspberry leaf absolute, violet, violet leaf absolute, Bulgarian rose absolute, Turkish rose otto, mimosa, orris concrete, Egyptian rose geranium, black fig accord, cassis bud, Cabernet accord, tobacco absolute, ambergris, ambrette seed, Atlas cedarwood, Australian sandalwood, green oakmoss, myrrh gum, musk, civet

Samples provided by the perfumer – they are lovely!  My nose is my own…

~ Ida Meister, Deputy Editor, Natural Perfumery Editor

DSH Perfumes Black Viola is a Finalist 2021 Concurs Internacional De Perfumeria

Editor’s Note: DSH Perfumes Black Viola is a Finalist: 2021 Concurs Internacional De Perfumeria

Thanks to the generosity of perfumer Dawn Spencer-Hurwitz, we are able to offer a draw to one registered reader of a 10 ml voile de parfum flacon (USA will receive EDP) of DSH Perfumes Black Viola (you must register here) anywhere in the world. To be eligible, please leave a comment regarding what appeals to you about Ida’s review and where you live. Draw closes 5/14/2021

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47 comments

  • lillian33 says:

    Here I am sitting at work totally wanting to try this out by your description! I do love the violet in Guerlains Insolence so I think this would be lovely. Would love to try! Cheers from the US.

  • aud604 says:

    Witchy you say? The noes of this sound very bold – I am struggling to create a mental scent of this in my mind. I enjoyed the breakdown of the notes in this review, very informative. Thank you from Canada.

  • LightOfJoy says:

    The description of Black Viola is captivating, it definitely makes me intrigued to smell this creation.

    I live in Houston, Texas, USA.

  • jojosi3 says:

    Another super review from Ida. What appeals most about the review is that it is described as moody and soulful – and there is nothing like that in my collection so I am curious. Gosh this has so many wonderful notes – too many to list without it sounding like I am just explaining them – the violet, the turkish rose, the ambergris, orris, fig etc… I would love to try something that is a finalist in the Concurs Internacional De Perfumeria! Greetings & thank you from Canada!

  • mdellaroc says:

    Reading the description I would not have thought Chypre but it sounds heavenly. I am a sucker for a fig note and when you add in notes of wood and tobacco, plus Dawn’s Cabernet accord, well I think I am caught. I have been interested in trying one of Dawn’s scents after hearing about her from Camille and Chris of Making a Stink. But you are so right, she has so many offerings, it really is hard to decide where to start. Thanks for a chance to win from DSH. In in the USA.

  • MilesofM says:

    I also really prefer complex scents to linear ones and a moody violet sounds wonderful.

    From Canada

  • moshe says:

    Black Viola sounds dark juicy and enchanting. I am also intrigued by Violettes de L’Aube because of its petrichor aspect. I would love to try both. Regards from Mexico!

  • Dami C says:

    All I needed to read was “Violet” and “Chypre” to be attracted to this fragrance. I enjoyed its description as a dark, outspoken violet with fruity accents from Cabernet accord and cassis bud. This sounds lovely and what a beautiful name! I would love to try it. In the USA.

  • Christie says:

    I absolutely love reading these reviews from you Ida! I keep a thesaurus near by! Today’s new word for me is “crepuscular” Anything resembling twilight is a yes from me. On that note, Black Viola just screams twilight! I have only tried Dawn’s La Rheine des Fleurs and it was a lovely, silky rose. I have never had a violet perfume so I would love to try this one. I live in the USA.

  • wandering_nose says:

    Ah Ida’s writing is endlessly enchanting… Like a mysterious temptress one never knows what to expect from, or rather, when that is going to come… The mental picture of the fragrance I have managed to conceive based on Ida’s review is like a pure obsession – dark, compelling, sweet, full of serious and uncompromising allure. Love the notes. I truly love violets and for the past few days I have been physically craving chypres, especially at bedtime – I feel Black Viola would fit the bill like nothing else. Thank you from Ireland, EU

  • Rosalie says:

    Violet is one of my favorite fragrance notes. Beautifully written review. From California, USA

  • Dubaiscents says:

    Like Ida, I prefer my fragrance to take me on a journey and Black Viola seems to do just that. I love violet perfumes and the fact that Dawn combines it with orris and tobacco and black currant makes this sound like something I’d adore. I am always impressed with Dawn’s prolific work and I can’t wait to smell all three from this violet trio! Thanks for the draw. US

  • BostonScentGuy says:

    This sounds absolutely wonderful! Ida’s description of its complexity (particularly the well balanced, interesting fruity/winey notes) sounds really compelling to me! I hope to smell this whole “sub line.” Thank you for this generous draw. I’m in the US (Boston)

  • AlenaK says:

    As always, I found the use of other art forms to ‘set the stage’ for how the scent is interpreted by Ida to be greatly intriguing — the poem single-handedly specify the particular angle of ‘black’ interpreted (as black isn’t always translated to silent, sleepy darkness). Is it the wine-ness and chypre of Black Viola?

    In any case, I’m a huge fan of deep dark chypre, leafy accords and tobacco, so the darker turn of violet really appeals to me!

    I’m based in Thailand!

  • Amaziz89 says:

    To describe Black Viola as complex would be an understatement. It’s gorgeously moody in a soulful vein, and like my favored fine fragrances, it takes the wearer on a journey. That said, Dawn has composed linear-like scents with a more masterful hand than many – but my decided preference is to travel via perfume. I want to be wooed, lured, seduced, fin This is precisely where DSH Perfumes Black Viola succeeds; on several levels, it is a relative of my beloved Muresque in that its ensorcelled tale insinuates mystery (a favorite variant of insinuation). Violet is on the menu beyond a doubt, and she is far from shy. Her companions accentuate a deeply jammy aspect of her nature while contributing to a winelike facet: raspberry leaf, a plush black ripe fig accord, Dawn’s proprietary Cabernet accord and a deft dose of cassis bud surround her with fruity sophistication. Yes, sophistication; this particular violet is highly sophisticated and a bit wanton as well. It is all about balance and counterbalance – the cool irones and ionones present in violet and orris are greatly enhanced by Turkish and Bulgarian roses’ luscious damascones and geranium’s herbal/floral character Violet leaf lends its leafy vegetal verdancy alive with a tender grassy earthiness and candied note; mimosa (frequently included in many violet perfumes) is sunny and lightly indolic, further fleshing out a sweet delicate powdery quality. Musky, dusky coloration is underscored by exotic woods, tobacco absolute’s richness, musky and ozonic animalics, oakmoss and myrrh. The conclusive result is a compelling chypre which captures violet’s sweetness while intimating the depth of its mythic crepuscular charms. A breathtaking dusky violet tinged with mystery and perhaps a whisper of subterranean menace…

    Notes: raspberry leaf absolute, violet, violet leaf absolute, Bulgarian rose absolute, Turkish rose otto, mimosa, orris concrete, Egyptian rose geranium, black fig accord, cassis bud, Cabernet accord, tobacco absolute, ambergris, ambrette seed, Atlas cedarwood, Australian sandalwood, green oakmoss, myrrh gum, musk, civet. I am intrigued by the cacophony of notes a house that I have got no with I am afraid but I am intrigued and fascinated by this house. A beautiful description by Ida has just captured my heart and soul I need to explore this house further. Thanks a million from the United Kingdom

  • Ozzyaziz says:

    Darkness darkness, be my pillow
    Take my head and let me sleep
    In the coolness of your shadow
    In the silence of your dream ~ Jesse Colin Young, songwriter A beautiful description by Ida I am fascinated and curious about the dark, Woody and mysterious aspect of this fragrance the notes sound sumptuous and beautiful. Thanks a lot from the UK

  • Kaitlyn says:

    Sweet Violets Sweeter than the Roses …
    I adore all things Violet from their endurance peeking their heads up in winter snow to before all else to call to Spring or when petals are mussed from indifferent trodding from ground covering- (& myths and sweet pastilles and, and…) When I read this review I even more adored this flower. I consider about the three perfumes, notes you can almost smell from the text contained within -it’s comforting familiar friend Orris to a Cabernet accord (?! Wow) and how much it’s lovingly adorned. I so much liked reading about the moodier version in the review along with the more traditional the Violet-appearing garden in spring but knowing that with Dawn’s fine composing with contrasting notes contained within the linear it will be exciting on the nose buds and curious for the imagination.
    Plus giving us more than one fragrance – They give us all a chance -violet lovers and maybe those just experiencing the Violet -a chance to express why it may be to some the true queen of the flowers or maybe at least understudy to the divas.

  • Ellg says:

    I love the water colors. If the perfumes smell anything like the loveliness and depth of the painted sketches, magic is reality.
    I’m so curious about these scents!

  • Lolis says:

    A dusky tinged with mystery Black Viola captured my curiosity! From Romania with love!

  • Ellg says:

    I love the water colors. If the perfumes smell anything like the loveliness and depth of the painted sketches, magic is reality.
    I’m so curious about these scents!
    Elizabeth from Los Angeles, CA

  • Valentina says:

    Ida, you had me at the two types of roses. I am a simple girl. I see roses, I need them. I am from Romania, EU.

  • Hayley says:

    Oh my goodness violet and DSH perfumes are all I need to hear. I want to try them all! I love violet and Black Viola particularly appeals as a dark jammy crepuscular violet, yes please! I am in the U.K. and have a huge list of DSH I want to order these are added to it.

  • constancesuze says:

    I love the sound of a dark, witchy, chypre-style violet. As much as I love a lipstick, powderpuff, ballerina violet, it’s so often relegated to that hyper-femme genre that it’s dark and dare I say sexy side gets neglected.
    Huge fan of DSH as well, and of Ida’s reviews. In the US.

  • Julesinrose says:

    I always hang on Ida’s every word, and love the fact that she in fact uses words I need to look up (which is no mean feat, dear Ida). 😉 I for one want to smell this fragrance that “mythic crepuscular charms.” And it doesn’t hurt that I love Violet (which is the name of a fragrance, I think). In Maine, USA

  • xoe says:

    Dawn Spencer-Hurwitz is so talented. I love her work. DSH Perfumes Black Viola sounds perfect to me. Witchy, Enchanted, Crepuscular… Violet! Yes please. I am in the US.

  • drjedi says:

    DSH Perfumes Black Viola has so many great notes. What I liked in Ida’s review was that she likes to “travel via perfume”, that is, perfume changes over time and takes the wearer on an Olfactive journey. This seems to be a deep, complex perfume. Thanks for the review and draw. Writing from the USA.

  • Elizabeth Watson says:

    Whoa, ensorcelled! I had to look that one up, lol. Witchy, enchanting. Ida’s descriptions had my mouth watering. I’m a fan of Dawn’s work. And mention of her proprietary Cabernet accord just set the hook. I live in the USA.

  • GennyLeigh says:

    Violet is so hard to do well in a fragrance. I’m impressed that DSH tackled a trio of violet centric scents. Black Viola sounds like a lovely and well composed chypre with a violet heart. I always appreciated the melancholy aspects of the flower and Black Viola seems like it does that justice. Commenting from MD. USA.

  • Josephine says:

    I’m a Scorpio woman and a visual artist and I love mythic crepuscular charms. Everything about the review of this scent appeals to me. Virginia, USA

  • audesko1 says:

    Ida really knows how to put her words and thoughts together to praise Dawn and her talents as a perfumer. Also talking about Black Viola and the trio of violet fragrances that Dawn has created. Black Viola being the first of the beautiful three. My favorite violet fragrance is Violet Shot. I am now exploring the violet world of fragrances and would love to try the DSH fragrances. USA

  • helenlam says:

    The concept of a black violet is really interesting! I think that proprietary Cabarnet accord is perfect for this. I tend to think of violet as light and powdery, so a black version with jam and ripe fig definitely sounds right color-wise! Thanks for the giveaway. I live in the USA.

  • HENNYFAIRECo says:

    I also gravitate toward fragrances that transport me somewhere. (As well as ones that make my mouth water; I expect Black Viola will with the cabernet note.)

    From USA

  • mronhubbard says:

    This sounds much more adventurous than many violet-heavy scents I know of. It would be more than interesting to see what such a creative perfumer can do with violet. (USA)

  • Francesca says:

    I’m sitting waiting in a slightly mysterious music venue in Wellington New Zealand, waiting for the jazz saxophonist that is coming on in five minutes. To pass the time, (I am alone ) I decided to read this review and I am warmed up, imagining the music and this fragrance. I feel it surround me. I wish Dawn was also here, she’s sure to love this night!

  • Paeonnia says:

    A twisting and turning Violet and rose turning perfume sound perfect for this spring.
    I’m in Slovenia, eu

  • Bryant Worley says:

    Ida made this fragrance sound so sumptuous – “Yes, sophistication; this particular violet is highly sophisticated and a bit wanton as well. It is all about balance and counterbalance – the cool irones and ionones present in violet and orris are greatly enhanced by Turkish and Bulgarian roses’ luscious damascones and geranium’s herbal/floral character Violet leaf lends its leafy vegetal verdancy alive with a tender grassy earthiness and candied note; mimosa (frequently included in many violet perfumes) is sunny and lightly indolic, further fleshing out a sweet delicate powdery quality. Musky, dusky coloration is underscored by exotic woods, tobacco absolute’s richness, musky and ozonic animalics, oakmoss and myrrh. The conclusive result is a compelling chypre.”

    I live in Waldorf, MD, USA

  • Kathleen Fergus says:

    I have been searching for my perfect violet for years. Could this be it?

  • mleenstra says:

    I love a bewitching perfume such as Black Viola. I love violets, but with a plump fig and raspberry lead this sounds very wild and fruity. Like Ida I enjoy perfumes that take me on a journey and can take a multiple wearings to fully explore each facet and then still surprise you. Would love to try! Marit UK

  • Salem says:

    This “witchy, enchanted crepuscular violet chypre” , sumptuous, dark and even slightly menacing, sounds like the perfect Morticia Addams scent. There is a melancholy to violets, but also a grandeur. And paired with roses, tobacco, oakmoss and civet it can only result in a truly important chypre…
    I live in Europe.

  • Brian says:

    I’ve taken a look at, what seemed to be, the collected works of, perfumer, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz and I agree with Ida when she said, in other words, that if someone is not familiar with Dawn’s work, then one could use help from someone who is familiar with it, in order to make a selective decision. I haven’t tried a DSH fragrance yet, but I want to try them all and this fragrance seems like it might be a good way to start familiarizing myself with DSH’s fragrance releases. I live in MD., U.S.A.

  • Mo Yahia says:

    Thank you Ida for this attractive review. Black Viola looks dark juicy and enchanting. I am also obsessed with Violettes de L’Aube because of its petrichor side. I would love to smell both. Regards from BiH!

  • NeroNick says:

    I loved Idas portrayal of this as a Musky, Dusky perfume and that she highlighted the sophisticated chypre aspect of the violet included! I have never tried anything from DSH and would love to dip my toes into the house – there is so much to chose from!
    NY USA

  • KateD says:

    I loved her iris trio and I can’t imagine not loving a violet trio. Her work is always pleasing even when it isn’t my style. As always, Ida’s review is like poetry! I’m in the US and Dawn’s shop is on my bucket list!

  • wallygator88 says:

    Thank you for the beautifully vivid review Ida.

    I absolutely adore chypres and Black Viola has such a fascinating composition. It’s very interesting to see the use of violet leaf absolute along with violet. Such a strong contrast of characters.

    I do hope that you review the other violet fragrances from DSH as well. Thank you for featuring some of her artwork as well.

    Cheers from WI, USA

  • smm13 says:

    I’m always interested in different interpretations of violet especially if it’s by Dawn. I like how Ida describes it’s moody depth, and I would love to try it. I live in the USA.