ÇaFleureBon Saturday Night Classics: Lancôme Poême Review (Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud)1995 ~The Bitter sweet symphony

 

Lancôme Poême 1995 review

Lancôme Poême  photo by Nicoleta 

“I have done nothing all summer but wait for myself to be myself again”  Painter Georgia O’Keeffe, in a letter to Russel Vernon Hunter

Remember, when you were still in school, how the beginning of autumn felt? When the rays of light started to fall oblique, reddish, with long shadows, and the air had a subtle but definite change in it, like the wind suddenly knew how to play music in a lower pitch. Childhood and adolescence are those times where we all practice a natural “mindfulness”, so present, so aware of sensations, so rooted in the now. The first taste of real-time-self-awareness mixed with nostalgia-happening-as-we-speak came with the first ring of the school bells, on the 15th of September. I never had new year resolution lists and never began anything important and worth planning-over in January. Autumn has always been the season for beginnings, to-do lists, rebirths, and new skins.

Bittersweet Symphony The Verve 1997

Bittersweet Symphony The Verve screen capture

 Chewing Juicy Fruits gum, eyes squinted in the afternoon golden light, sound of crispy leaves under my boots, leather jacket, Walkman in my pockets, The Verve playing in my headphones, impersonating a petite but equally aloof version of Richard Ashcroft, strolling the busiest street of my hometown. This is how good autumn stories begin for me, for more years than I care to count,- always with Lancôme Poeme on my wrists. The top notes of Poeme are a mouthful of sweet, syrupy, dripping juices. You can have your pick from a basket filled to the brim with colorful and ripe fruits: bergamot, mandarins, plums, peaches and blackcurrants, all mixed in with green notes.

vintage Lancome Poeme review

Lancome Poeme print, 1996

After the sweetness of the fruits settles a bit, we come into the bittersweet and yellow nectar of a bouquet seen through a magnifying lens: an orange blossom flower surrounded by freesia, jasmine, some (uncharacteristically silent) tuberose, rose and mimosa that are all blended beyond recognition in a honeyed whirlwind of yellow and white petals (for a visual interpretation of this flowery phase, look at Georgia O’Keefe flower paintings -realistic and abstract at the same time, uber-feminine, irreverent and sensual.

Georgia O’Keeffe painting My Autumn, 1929

Georgia O’Keeffe painting My Autumn, 1929

In the dry down, the perfume reminds us that it was born in the 90s and dials up the oriental vibe: the vanilla has the center stage now, surrounded by the usual sidekicks: amber, musk, and tonka.  , Poeme was anecdotally loud –  a critic once dubbed it to be one of the perfumes that should be banned in restaurants (together with Givenchy Amarige and Estee Lauder Spellbound).

Lancôme Poême Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud

Lancôme Poême by Nicoleta

In the current formulation, it’s safe to spray with abandon (even if you are going to a fast food place, down the block)  – but that’s a problem only if you care about projection and longevity – as Poeme has managed to keep its essence to this day: a beautiful, bittersweet honeyed floral that can act both like a pat on your back and a kick in the rear.

Lancôme Poême was created in 1995 and the nose was Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud

Notes: Blue Himalayan Poppy, Lychee Blossom, Orange Blossom, Mimosa, Jasmine, Vanilla, Desert Datura Flower

Nicoleta Tomsa, Editor

Disclosure: My bottle, opinions are my own

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3 comments

  • I didn’t wear the Poeme but I do like many vintage rich florals, Mahora and 1000, just to name couple.
    And talking about big bombastic fragrances that were (supposedly) banned from restaurants we have to mention Poison and Giorgio Beverly Hills.
    People can have different sentiments about the loud perfumes of that era, but nobody can deny they were full of character, unlike the modern day designer fragrances, all drowning in the same pink waters.

  • Bombastic florals were decorating my skin during fall as a reminder i exist in spite of all the layers covering my tiny body with their warmth. Underneath, Organza, Poême and Amarige were screaming to be unleashed. Wonderful rendition of one of the most mysterious and rich florals i know. ❤️

  • One of my nicest compliments came while wearing Lancome’s Poeme. I was out at my local supermarket late one evening when another shopper passed me by in the aisle. I wasn’t terribly aware of it as I was eyeing the shelves, etc. Before she got to the end of the aisle, she called out and said, “I’m sorry, but do you mind if I ask you what you are wearing? It’s absolutely beautiful.” I had to stop for a bit and think. I had put a couple of sprays on after work that night but did not really think about it. Anyway, I was happy to tell her, and I thanked her for the compliment.